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General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: Kiwi_Roy on July 03, 2018, 06:56:04 PM
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I haven't posted for a while, a friend and I decided to take a trip up to the Arctic Circle actually it was something he had been wanting to do for a long time, I was lucky to be included.
We allowed 5 days to get as far as Dawson City via 37 where we took in Stewart, Hyder AK and had our first taste of gravel up to the Salmon glacier. Next stops were Watson lake to see the signpost park and Whitehorse. On the way we heard about a sidecar outfit crash so we went back to make sure the owner wasn�t laying hurt. The Ural rig was standing on it�s nose leaning against a tree dripping gas, the engine stone cold so obviously happened the evening before. We surmised the rider must have gone to sleep as the bend was quite gentle but the skidmark took off at an angle and the bike launched over the edge, Alberta plate
At Dawson City we took part in the Dust to Dawson Not a Rally and celebrated the summer solstice on top of the Dome at midnight, sun still well up in the sky.
I was quite nervous about the 400 kms of road to the Arctic Circle, I wasn�t sure how the Griso would behave on a rough gravel road, It didn�t help to hear about a number of riders crashing and having to get flown out.
The early stretches were fine gravel spread over a hard base that felt like riding on marbles with occasional groups of deep potholes that caused the suspension to bottom out, it was all you could do going at 80-100 kph to pick a way through trying to avoid the larger holes. Worse though was the section where instead of holes there were salient points of rock jutting through the gravel. Once I started to relax and let the bike handle the rough stuff with minimal input I learned to breathe again
Its about 400 km from the turnoff to the circle so I was carrying extra gas, it turned out the Griso has a range of 350 km with the reserve light coming on about 275 then counting up to 75, this is really good IMHO. I was interested to see what happened so let it run right out, gave a surge or two then died completely, started immediately with added gas. We planned on stopping the night at Eagle Plains but because of the 24 hours of daylight continued on another 36 km to the Arctic Circle signpost, had a beer and took a bunch of pictures
https://ibb.co/eeba1d
From this picture you can scroll to others, then scroll down to view any comments I added
then came back to Eagle Plains for the night. The return to Dawson City the next day was pretty un-eventfull but I did get to enjoy the solitude as we didn�t stick together, just tried to connect once an hour.
The following day we travelled the Top of the World Highway from Dawson to Chicken and Tok AK, this according to the signpost was the first land link between Canada and Alaska, the highway is decent gravel to the US border then turns to nice smooth blacktop for quite a way then just as you start to relax switches to the worst kind of gravel, large lose rocks.
We finally made it home down the Alaska Hwy and over past Whistler arriving home 2 weeks and 8 hours after starting out at 8060 km.
(https://image.ibb.co/kFFeSJ/IMG_0013.jpg)
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The bike was once clean
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The first time I travelled this highway it was all gravel, now it's nice seal.
(https://image.ibb.co/dUqPuy/IMG_0204.jpg)
Bear Glacier
(https://image.ibb.co/gdr8Md/IMG_0205.jpg)
Entering Alaska, there is no US border guard, at one time he was in the small concrete building, the Canadian customs lady told me they keep an eye on Hyder and alert the US authorities if they see anything suspicious.
Because it was Monday the hotel was closed so we couldn't get Hyderised
(https://image.ibb.co/gd1sgd/IMG_0209.jpg)
Salmon Glacier - this is back in BC North of Hyder. I did some work at the old Premier Mine just up the road many years ago. There's an unmanned border crossing just North of town
At the end of this road is the Granduc site, an abandoned underground Copper mine.
(https://image.ibb.co/eToNgd/IMG_0243.jpg)
Mehan Lake next day, further up 37
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A couple of pictures of the Signpost Park at Watson Lake - this was started by US servicemen working on the Alaska Highway, it's grown a lot since I was last here.
(https://image.ibb.co/dwBYMd/IMG_0362.jpg)
We attended the Dust to Dawson dinner, a great steak meal put on by the local firefighters and wives.
The profits went to a local charity.
(https://image.ibb.co/gTXq1d/IMG_0343.jpg)
Waiting to celebrate the Summer Solstice
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(https://image.ibb.co/dN7euy/IMG_0350.jpg)
Back at the campsite at 1:00AM, the ferry seems to run all night.
(https://image.ibb.co/j4WfZy/IMG_0382.jpg)
The next day the weather seemed to be picking up so we decided to make a run for the Arctic
(https://image.ibb.co/et1sgd/IMG_0383.jpg)
(https://image.ibb.co/kUhb7J/IMG_0400.jpg)
Waiting to greet us at the Arctic Circle
(https://image.ibb.co/eHAPuy/IMG_0401.jpg)
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My traveling companion Bob
(https://image.ibb.co/eBJYnJ/IMG_0407.jpg)
This guy and his Daughter turned up, they were on the way back from the Ocean
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The bike got a little dirty
(https://image.ibb.co/ix5JMd/IMG_0439.jpg)
(https://image.ibb.co/i7CnEy/IMG_0440.jpg)
A couple of pictures on the road back to Dawson
(https://image.ibb.co/nnBsgd/IMG_0445.jpg)
The following day we travelled the Top of the World Highway from Dawson to Chicken and Tok AK, this according to the signpost was the first land link between Canada and Alaska, the highway is decent gravel to the US border, turns to nice smooth blacktop for quite a way then just as you start to relax switches to the worst kind of gravel, large lose rocks.
(https://image.ibb.co/mKn9SJ/IMG_0448.jpg)
(https://image.ibb.co/cUXXgd/IMG_0450.jpg)
Haines Junction
(https://image.ibb.co/gBgVZy/IMG_0451.jpg)
(https://image.ibb.co/e0bm7J/IMG_0455.jpg)
These metal deck bridges would throw the bike around in an alarming fashion, just hit it at 50k and hope for the best
(https://image.ibb.co/mNVqZy/IMG_0458.jpg)
While I was waiting at Liard Hot Springs this guy wandered by, completely ignored me, I was ok with that
(https://image.ibb.co/dUFw7J/IMG_0471.jpg)
Turns out he owns the place
(https://image.ibb.co/dcc4uy/IMG_0473.jpg)
(https://image.ibb.co/iREOnJ/IMG_0530.jpg)
Obligatory photo of mile zero
0ur 6000 km trip turned into 8,060. the rear heidenau K73 is worn out in the centre but of course it still has chicken strips
The road from Dawson to the Arctic circle is 400 km of the roughest gravel i have ridden, unexpected potholes throw you from the seat.
The rear suspension has lost all the oil from the pounding, bad seal i guess so it's like riding a pogo stick, luckily that didn't show until we were back on pavement
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Is there NOTHING the Mighty GRiSO can't handle?!!??!! :thumb:
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Do they still tell the legend of Jim Coleman and Ca$h Register at D2D , 2 crazy Okies that helped start the not a rally . Unfortunately Jim was killed on a motorbike some 20 years ago , but what a guy he was .
Dusty
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Quite a trip, Roy. Well done.
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Good job! I know those roads well. I describe your route as the last technical riding in Western north America. The reports of crashes bear that out. Did you get the t-shirt from Chicken?
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Roy! Kokanee? Really?
John D.
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Wow! Lucky you! :bow:
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Wow what a trip! Well done!
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Do they still tell the legend of Jim Coleman and Ca$h Register at D2D , 2 crazy Okies that helped start the not a rally . Unfortunately Jim was killed on a motorbike some 20 years ago , but what a guy he was .
Dusty
Yes I seem to recall talk of their ashes buried by a tree somewhere along the road or at least Jim and some of the other early riders.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Way cool !!
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Awesome! :thumb:
That's going to take some cleaning! :evil:
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Welcome back to civilization Roy, I enjoyed following your progress from afar.
Glad you made it in one piece.
Kev
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Great to see you back Roy
Sort of trip that I can only dream of doing, congratulations on taking it on and more important arriving back safe and sound
The shots of these roads are making me shudder, doing it on a Griso :shocked:
Hat's off Roy :bow:
John
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An epic trip, indeed. Congratulations, Roy.
I'm impressed by your skid plate and gas can brackets. And your seat.
What tires did you run?
Thanks for sharing your pictures. Now let's see some snooty 8-valve Griso match this!
Moto
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Yeah, baby!
(https://image.ibb.co/ix5JMd/IMG_0439.jpg)
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An epic trip, indeed. Congratulations, Roy.
I'm impressed by your skid plate and gas can brackets. And your seat.
What tires did you run?
Thanks for sharing your pictures. Now let's see some snooty 8-valve Griso match this!
Moto
The skid plate is actually just piece of rubber mat. I learnt from my mining days that rubber will outlast steel
Heidenau K73s.in hindsite I should have been on K70s
I will try to tidy up the pictures, having trouble with IMG at the moment
The seat is a Corbin Gunfighter designed for an 8 Valve but it fits the 2 Valve just as well, all day comfort.
I should have mentioned there was a Quota Tug at Eagle Plains, I didn't find out where he had come from, hopefully someone knows him.
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Thanks, that gets to the reason I ride. I remember sitting on the couch, arm hairs tingling from the hours of stimulation, feeling unsettled and exuberant, like I should shift into third or something . Welcome back!
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Atta Boy.
I probably passed you somewhere on the identical route. I sure didn't see you on the Dempster, I would have remembered seeing a Griso on that road.
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Atta Boy.
I probably passed you somewhere on the identical route. I sure didn't see you on the Dempster, I would have remembered seeing a Griso on that road.
We were at Eagle Plains night of June 23rd, the only Guzzi I saw was the Quota with sidecar, owner said it spent most of it's life in harness.
I ran into the quota tug again this summer at the Broken arrow campout.
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Quota belongs to my friend Del West out of Red Deer. Del had to repair his rear drive on the side of the road, pinion nut came loose. I missed you by one day but I was in Dawson the night of the BMW love fest. Never seen so many Ewan McGregor impersonators. Most of the GS riders spend more time adjusting their gadgets and polishing their bikes than taking them off pavement. I saw more than one GS on its side in the mud.
Good on you for taking a Griso up the Dempster.
I would like to plan a Loop Frame only ride to Tuktoyuktuk in a couple years, no GPS or tablets permitted and riding apparel must include rubber boots, bib denim coveralls and a Jean jacket. Anyone with a Tourtech item will be asked to leave.
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Wow!! And here I thought my little twelve day romp around France was an adventure 😀😀😀.
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I would like to plan a Loop Frame only ride to Tuktoyuktuk in a couple years, no GPS or tablets permitted and riding apparel must include rubber boots, bib denim coveralls and a Jean jacket. Anyone with a Tourtech item will be asked to leave.
Now that would be a rally worth going to, keep us posted.
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Great thanks Roy. Nice trip report. :thumb:
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I am roughing out plans for a similar trip next year or the year after. So a couple questions: did the original tires last the whole trip? If they did not, where did you get them changed? Finally - how bad were the mosquitoes?
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Looks like a great trip, it reminds me of my treks through France, Switzerland, Italy (including stopping off in Mandello, and a new clutch fitted by Mene, up on the hillside), Spain and Portugal. It also reminds me I'm due for another trip before long. I might just manage it in September this year, but most likely it'll be next year.
https://ibb.co/gwuVnJ
Loaded with gear for a 3 week camping trip for two, including a Martin travel guitar, which sounded crappy but better than nothing. The small block Nevada never missed a beat
BTW, the sidecar with the guy and his daughter heading back from the ocean looks like it's well kitted out for any eventuality. A sidecar with attitude!!.
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Absolutely Fabulous pictures Roy :bow:
Dusty
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I am roughing out plans for a similar trip next year or the year after. So a couple questions: did the original tires last the whole trip? If they did not, where did you get them changed? Finally - how bad were the mosquitoes?
The original Heidenau K73 rear barely lasted the 8,000k, my friends Super Tenere was shod with Heidenau K70, they still look good. My K73 front is good, we did not change tires but if you do Whitehorse would be the place, we have a member who lives near there.
The Mosquitos were bad for me but don't seem to bother some people, the spray I had was not very effective but I had a net to pull over the head, only used it once
You need to have a fuel range of 400 km, The Griso is only 350 but I had 2 extra gallons. (1 extra would have been enough)
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Thanks! Great story from a great trip.
I'm impressed by the mighty Griso's achievements!
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Thanks for the info. Did you camp every night, or were you able to find motels? I’ve read different things about that, but most writers say that camping gear (whether you use it or not) is a must.
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Thanks! Great story from a great trip.
I'm impressed by the mighty Griso's achievements!
It ain't the name on the hammer handle, it's the guy swinging it.. :grin:
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Well done Roy.
Makes my little 6000 K hops look like newbs stuff. :bow:
Looking forward to hearing about all the details when I see you next.
PS. I'm not taking my Griso out with you anymore :grin:
Ciao
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Wow!! And here I thought my little twelve day romp around France was an adventure 😀😀😀.
Make no mistake..
It is !
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Great story and photos - thanks! Amazing that you were able to ride the Griso on those roads. Like Chuck says - it's the guy swinging it!
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Good job! I know those roads well. I describe your route as the last technical riding in Western north America. The reports of crashes bear that out. Did you get the t-shirt from Chicken?
You didn't find the TAT very technical in the western sections?
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I would like to plan a Loop Frame only ride to Tuktoyuktuk in a couple years, no GPS or tablets permitted and riding apparel must include rubber boots, bib denim coveralls and a Jean jacket. Anyone with a Tourtech item will be asked to leave.
Don't forget the vinyl rain gear. :thumb:
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If you like stories about Arctic Circle rides…
I’ll remind you of this.
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MY riding buddy Bob is beyond camping so we moteled it except for two nights at Dawson city where we camped just across the river in the padlestemer graveyard.
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:bow:
MY riding buddy Bob is beyond camping so we moteled it except for two nights at Dawson city where we camped just across the river in the padlestemer graveyard.
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Just *W O W. Good on ya! I'm sure many stories to tell from that trip for quite some time.
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Awesome thanks for sharing!
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I am roughing out plans for a similar trip next year or the year after. So a couple questions: did the original tires last the whole trip? If they did not, where did you get them changed? Finally - how bad were the mosquitoes?
The tires lasted the 8,000 km of the trip, the mosses weren't too bad. I never had to use the bug net i took along
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Thank you for all those pics, Roy. I particularly liked that of the sidecar for father and daughter which looked very serious :grin: :thumb:
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Thanks Roy (and Huzo),
Great story and pictures!
Nick