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OK, so I was bored last night and did some experiments on a 2013 V7 Stone. I documented the results for myself, and am posting them in case anyone else finds it helpful. Or is really bored. Normal ignition key on process Both tach and speedo needles sweep across gauges and return. Fuel pump primes for a few seconds, then stops. You can hear and see fuel swirling in the tank. All instrument gauge lights come on. Shortly thereafter, the top 3 lights go out: High-beam, turn signal, and low fuel warning lamp. A second or so later, the yellow check engine light at the bottom goes out. The green neutral and red oil light stay on indefinitely. The running lights come on when you turn the ignition key, even if the engine isn’t running. The headlight does not come on. About a second after the engine starts, the headlight comes on. All the above happens regardless of the position of the kill switch. Side-stand DOWN, in first gear.Gauges are as described above, engine will not crank, regardless of clutch position. Side stand UP, in first gear.Engine won’t start if clutch is out. Engine will start if the clutch pulled in. Kill Switch On The engine will not crank at all. No click, no nothing, regardless of whether the clutch is in or out, side stand up or down, or bike is in neutral. What Happens if Fuse Blows.Removing fuses towards the front of the bike and working rearwards:Remove Red 10A. [Fuse A]. The engine starts and runs. Running lights and horn don’t work. Remove Blue 15A [Fuse B]. Engine starts and runs. Brake lights and turn signals work. Horn works. But both high and low headlights are out. --> So I think if you have a charging problem and are trying to preserve battery power until you can get home, this is the fuse to remove. Remove Blue 15A [Fuse C]. The gauges do not sweep or light up. The fuel pump does not prime. The engine won’t crank. Turn signals don’t work. But the horn does work, as do the running and brake lights. Remove Yellow 5A [Fuse D]. Really weird. The fuel pump primes. The gauge needles do not sweep immediately like they normally do, but do later before the engine cranks. Then they sweep a second time after the engine cranks. The gauge needles act weird. The tachometer doesn’t register rpm at first, but then later it does register. The engine cranks and runs. But after the engine is shut off, the tach needle stays stuck at its prior idle speed reading rather than fall back to zero. The turn signals do not work, but the turn signal indicator does work! The horn works, as do the running and brake lights. Remove Yellow 5A [Fuse E]. The gauge needles sweep. All gauge lights come on at first, but then the green (neutral) cuts off right away despite the bike being in neutral. The yellow check engine goes out right away. The fuel pump does not prime. The running lights work, as do the brake lights and turn signals. The turn signal indicator works. Horn works. The engine will not crank. Remove Green 30A [Fuse F]. Nothing. Needles don’t sweep. Gauges lights don’t come on. Fuel pump doesn’t prime. No running or brake lights. No turn signals or indicator or horn. Engine won't crank. Totally dead.
Prescott...could you confirm the above sequence of events is the same whether the bike is parked front wheel uphill or downhill.
Are you serious? Or is this some gag to get the rube to push his bike around at night waiting for the headlight.