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You have more patience than I do. I just called up Will, got his recipe and applied it.
Donít get me wrong Howie, I did the same thing..But the solution is as simple as it sounds. Just remove the unit, throw it under a bus or similar large vehicle and make sure it goes under the wheels..Get the map.Install it.
Well, after I set the TPS (multi-meter arrived) I will look into getting rid of the PC and mapping it correctly. I am finding that teaching remotely is taking WAY more time than the real thing and I haven't had the opportunity to look up a good reference on setting TPS. After that, I will chase down the cables necessary to do the PC bypass. Honestly, I want to pick up a pair of stock/unmodified mufflers for the bike. I don't care if I give up a few HP, I want a quieter bike.
The easiest way is to back off idle stop and use 2 paper clips prodded in harness plug under rubber, slid down to pin connectors.
I did the same thing, except I used sewing needles instead of the paper clips. They're still there some 17 years later!
Over on V11Lemans.com, https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?/topic/20747-tps-break-out-cable/&tab=comments#comment-238517 they've discovered the Casper Breakout Cable which is a simple disconnect/plug in connector to take the readings from; if taking measurements from the TPS with a voltmeter is something you plan to do on a regular or semi-regular basis, this might be worthwhile adding to your tool box.http://www.casperselectronics.com/cart/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=853
It looks a handy product, but why are two wires the same color? Confusion will ensure.
Do NOT use GuzziDiag to set the TPS with the voltage readout. The displayed resolution isn't good enough. You can, however, use the throttle readout, and set it it via the throttle angle.
Add this to the mix, if you put a timing light on the engine and turn the tps, you will see the ignition timing change. A tps will easily come apart for inspection and cleaning. I had one with severely bent contacts. Making contact in two different locations on the winding and dead spots.
Simply stated, the best thing you can do for a modern Guzzi running wise is a Beetle Map! It's also the least expensive.
Mark, as I'm sure you are aware, many folks that use a PC never have it properly tuned on a dyno. I did on my old EV. Without doing that, you are painting with a broad brush. After that, I still ended up having trouble with it when, during the Kentucky Rally, it began over fueling to the point the bike would not idle without throttle input. I removed it from the circuit, and never reconnected it. I eventually figured out why. It you used the fast idle lever before you turned on the ignition, it decided that was the base setting on boot up. All of this was before there was a viable method to modify the puter. If you can properly adjust the factory puter, why would you want to add one more gadget?If you take your modern car into the dealer for something, they flash the puter in the car with an update. They do not plug in another device. To add in the Creedon chip is nonsense since it accomplished what Beetle and others have done. As far as I'm concerned, an untuned PC and the spoofers are snake oil. The chip Will developed was not. As for a PC, once you buy it and have it properly tuned, you have spent considerably more that putting a decent map in the puter from Beetle. Sorry but that seems silly. (I will note this is within the world of Guzzi. I don't know about other companies puters or their ability to be modified.)Simply stated, the best thing you can do for a modern Guzzi running wise is a Beetle Map! It's also the least expensive.Now to the OP, his initial concern regarding the running issue he described did not, to me, sound PC related. Many of us suggested the TPS and pointed him in that direction. That is likely the source of the trouble that showed up. Beyond that, a Beetle Map is a better solution for fueling a modern Guzzi that other options.John Henry
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