96 1100 sport final drive

[TFinch1990]

Looking for some pointers the final drive on my sport started out as a very small leak and now is covering the rear wheel so it's going to have to be changed my question is how hard is it to change and what is the best way to go about it is it something i can just take the rear wheel off and or is it something i would be better off taking the bevel box off the bike and taking it to my dealer and let them change it the bike is no longer safe to ride so I have to do something soon

[Chuck in Indiana]

I mean no offense, but if you are asking this question..take it to someone. It's a pretty complicated procedure just to remove and reinstall the wheel.

[jwinwi]

I mean no offense, but if you are asking this question..take it to someone. It's a pretty complicated procedure just to remove and reinstall the wheel.

Just got done removing and reinstalling the wheels on my 96 to have new tires installed. Was painfully reminded how tricky it is to remove and reinstall the rear wheel and I've done it many times since 2002.  Maybe if you watch someone do it so you know what's involved? Another important point is you don't want to damage the drive shaft removing it or reinstalling it incorrectly.

[Murray]

It depends which seal and is a sport or a spot? ie injected or carbed? The larger outer seal can be removed relatively easily once the rear wheel is removed and replaced in situ anything else will need the bevel box to be pulled and operated on. With the slip joint on the shaft it is fairly easy to remove the bevel box once you have the rear wheel out just make sure you are across the procedure of realigning the shaft drive crosses on reassembly.

[rocker59]

Looking for some pointers the final drive on my sport started out as a very small leak and now is covering the rear wheel so it's going to have to be changed my question is how hard is it to change and what is the best way to go about it is it something i can just take the rear wheel off and or is it something i would be better off taking the bevel box off the bike and taking it to my dealer and let them change it the bike is no longer safe to ride so I have to do something soon

If you've not worked on the bike before, I would recommend taking the whole bike to the dealer.

If you have worked on the bike, and removed/replaced the rear wheel previously, then getting to the large outter seal is easy.  It's an easy replacement.  However, if the smaller inner seal is leaking, the bevel box will have to be removed and disassembled to replace it.

Again, if you've not handy at working on the bike, take it to a dealer and save yourself some headaches.

[TFinch1990]

I have had the rear wheel off and back on with no issues i just didn't know what was involved with changing the seal some things take special tools i was just trying to get some insight to what was involved

[Chuck in Indiana]

I have had the rear wheel off and back on with no issues i just didn't know what was involved with changing the seal some things take special tools i was just trying to get some insight to what was involved

Ok, in that case.. Rocker has you covered in the previous post. From reading your first post, I thought you had never removed the Marquis De Sade designed rear axle.. and didn't want you to get into trouble. 

[Guzzidad]

  ??? I don't understand why it's so hard to remove the rear wheel? I've gone through 13 sets of tires on mine and I always thought it was easy to remove. And the bevel box isn't that complicated either. U-joint allignment is critical, but easy. As a Guzzi dealer once told my friend many years ago, if you have a decent set of basic tools and a high school education you are as qualified as we are.

[Aaron D.]

Yes, I always thought the Sport had a decent removal procedure. Faster than other Guzzis I had.

[Chuck in Indiana]

Yes, I always thought the Sport had a decent removal procedure. Faster than other Guzzis I had.

Are we talking about the same bike? The Kid's Spot, an early 96, is *very* fiddly. <scratching head>

[pete roper]

There is one model, can't remember which, that has a queer two part spindle with a host of stupid spacers and other such crap. It seemed to have been designed by a lunatic and is a raging clusterfuque of a system. Whoever thought it up should be taken out the back for a darned good kicking!

[Chuck in Indiana]

There is one model, can't remember which, that has a queer two part spindle with a host of stupid spacers and other such crap. It seemed to have been designed by a lunatic and is a raging clusterfuque of a system. Whoever thought it up should be taken out the back for a darned good kicking!

Yeah, that's it all right. The 96 Spot. A right frontbottom, to quote a famous Austrian..

[Devildog]

Guzzidad, can you elaborate? Recently I had new tires mounted and now have some footpeg vibration.
Thanks!
Bill

[Mr Revhead]

Do you have a bevel box breather installed?

[Guzzidad]

   Devildog, if all you had was a new tire installed it's doubtfull they removed the rear drive and shaft. The U-joint crosses need to be lined up with each other. You can tell if the grease zerks are alligned. Vibration in the foot pegs might be caused by an imbalanced tire. Or maybe a bad U-joint. But my U-joints have 123,000 miles on them and they're still good. I grease them every oil change. Another source of vibration could be loose motor mount bolts at the front of the engine.

[MedicAndy]

I just ordered new seals for a 1996 Spot which also has a final drive leaking. I also purchased two final drive vents, which were not cheap, but I already use the same type of vents on four of my other 1100's, and they seem to do a good job venting the final drive after everything heats up. I'm sure that there are cheaper vents out there, but the ones I'm buying satisfy my need. 

About the installation of the new seals, I'm not going to do the installations. I like working on my bikes, but I'm a little hesitant to do something that I have never done before, and hopefully never have to do again. I also don't want to risk damaging the rear wheel spine or final drive's spine gears, so Johann, who is the owner of Moto Motivo here in Raleigh will do the repair.

FYI: Here are the final drive seals that I ordered yesterday from MG Cycle. (Disregard the wheel bearings and air valve stems on the order, I need those to rebuild my wheels before getting them painted).

[Murray]

Final drive breather is a bit of a falling elephant protector IMO, if you are feeling parniod take a spanner for the fill plug and go for a ride a fast one prefably in summer. With the final drive nice and toastie crack the fill plug and reseal the abition is you'll create a slight negative pressure when it heats up again preassure will equalise.

[Mr Revhead]

Final drive breather is a bit of a falling elephant protector IMO, if you are feeling parniod take a spanner for the fill plug and go for a ride a fast one prefably in summer. With the final drive nice and toastie crack the fill plug and reseal the abition is you'll create a slight negative pressure when it heats up again preassure will equalise.

Tried that. Couple of times, made zero difference to mine.

[voncrump]

Timeline for my rear drive leaks.
2010 leak from large seal, seal replaced, fixed.
Early 2018, small seal leak, seal replaced, fixed for 2000km.
Late 2018 small seal leak, home made vent system fitted, fixed for 1000km.
Early 2019 small seal leak, oil changed to penrite 140 with a dash of seal saver and a dash of nulon gear juice.
So far so good.
Just another Guzzi experience.
Keep em topped up and keep riding them.
Cheers voncrump.


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