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OK both carbs now back on bike! Fingers crossed. Waiting for air box boot and battery I ordered. Will work on petcocks today, and research fuel lines. And just ordered generator cover and two lock nuts for throttle/choke - I bought a couple from my hardware store but they are too big and rubber boot won't fit ha!I want to install bar end signals, and was looking at these, which are actual Hella, include LED bulbs and relay:https://www.ebay.com/itm/203652717629?hash=item2f6aa5dc3d:g:JT8AAOSwuMZZKLKNAnyone with experience, have any input? Charlie I believe you installed replicas on Sophia? Replicas are a lot less expensive, but if they are cheaply made I'd rather go for the long haul quality.
I've installed both genuine Hella and Emgo repros. Years ago the Emgos weren't nearly as good, but now they are nearly the same quality as the originals, parts will even interchange. The biggest difference between the two is the Hellas are polished alloy and the Emgos are chrome-plated. it's not just "flash chrome" either - there's copper, nickel and then chrome. This can make them a bit hard to install - the plating is thick so I've found it necessary to remove it from the part that goes into the 'bars. Depending on the 'bars, it may be necessary to ream or drill the inner diameter larger as well. The Hellas have a locating nub which fits into a notch in the 'bars on BMW /2s, so you'd either need to remove the nub or make a notch for it to fit into. I've found it necessary to open up the i.d. of the 'bars with these as well. Hopefully the LED bulbs supplied with the Hellas are amber to match the lens, if they're not a "normal" incandescent festoon bulb will be brighter. Note that the Hellas are for 6 volts - you'll need different bulbs and flasher. Emgo replicas: https://www.mgcycle.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=37_156&products_id=3001
OK cool, thanks again, I will try the replicas. Also considering switches, maybe doing a modern upgraded 'all-in'one' switch. And I would like the flashing brake light and maybe modulating front headlight? Not sure, and need to finish fuel projects and get the bike running first I guess.
I prefer something a bit more period looking on my Loops.https://z1parts.net/switch-handlebar-kawasaki-h2-h1-s1-s2-left-side/Here's how to wire it up:https://www.thisoldtractor.com/moto_guzzi_loopframe_handlebar_switch_-_kawasaki_46091-005_-asahi-denso-.htmlNot a fan of either flashing brake lights or modulating headlights. I am a fan of LED brake light bulbs and an LED headlight or bulb.
I could go for that one. What do you think of this one?https://www.mgcycle.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=37_140&products_id=3010The thing about the flashing brake light/modulating headlight is that I NOTICE THEM when I'm driving a car. And I want to be noticed by car drivers when I'm riding the bike! Can you share your reasons for not being a fan?
The problem with the flashing lites is target fixation by an impaired driver. They will home into a flashing lite automatically when they are in a trance. Years ago they were wondering why the cop cars being fully lit up kept getting run into by our fellow travelers and that’s what they found. Experiments were conducted to determine flash rates and stuff like intensity and location that were changed to help alleviate the problem but I have not read that study. It’s not much of a problem with enforcement and investigation vehicles anymore but does still happen.
Any tips on installing the generator cover? Seems like I may need to take the front fender off in order to slot it into place?? I already removed the horn, but still not enough clearance to comfortably fit it in...
The generator cover doesn't go on from the front, it goes on from the side (after the cable splitter is removed) or from the rear (while the carbs and breather box are off). The closed part goes towards the rear. A tip I learned from Mark Etheridge at Moto Guzzi Classics: Put a 1" wide piece of masking tape down over the closed section and make a cut on either side of it. This makes two halves that are easier to install and also reduces the chance of it cracking around the mounting holes. I use fender washers on the mounting bolts.
Lights: I would not want a flashing headlight. But, I have seen a tail light that would flash something like 3 times and then go solid. I did notice that quite well. Then again, if I need to make sure my brake gets noticed and I have the time, I'll hit the brake on and off a few times before actually braking, especially on a freeway in a quick slow down situation.Tom
Ah interesting, will do this today! So I guess they have a tendency to crack at mounting holes and fender washers help distribute the stress. Very cool. Cheers!
Sorry to suggest such a terrible "bodge" . It's not only the clamping force of the bolts that cracks the cover when it's one piece, the covers (new or old) are usually molded a bit "tweaked". I've tried shoulder washers like you show and rubber grommets with spacers and washers. One piece covers still cracked. They don't crack with Mark's/my "bodge". An LED bulb does a great job of improving rear lighting.https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074GPX2Q8
I bodged it. As you mentioned, my cover was quite deformed out of the box. Relieving the tension makes sense, and there's really no downside I can see, aside from feeling a bit weird cutting a brand new part in half lol.Are these bulbs just straight replacements for the existing bulbs, or do I need a relay or something?
There are no "electronics" to fry. I doubt you did any damage other than the melted ground cable. With that Odyssey, I'd probably use their "L" brackets to move the terminals to the top and/or switch to cables with M6 lug terminals, instead of automotive post type connections.
An LED bulb does a great job of improving rear lighting.https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074GPX2Q8
...switch to cables with M6 lug terminals, instead of automotive post type connections.
Do these need a resistor Charlie or do they work off a stock setup plug & play?
Can I just buy these, cut my existing wires and crimp these on? Or should I buy all new cables?https://www.mgcycle.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=37_158&products_id=670
Plug & play, no resistor for the taillight. If you use these amber LEDs in the turn signals... https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BXT4WRN...you'd need to switch to an electronic flasher such as this one.https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MJGC28BYes, you can crimp or solder those on if the cables are still viable (not melted or have green corrosion).