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If so and if the immobilizer has lost memory can you recover the connection? It doesn’t look like the key has a battery in it.
I think a search for "Startus Interuptus" may be in order.
Like I said the fix of a battery fused wire to the yellow wire at the start solenoid has been done.
Guzzidiag at hand?, it will show if bike is ready to crank.
There's your load test!
if true why does it fire right off when jumping the starter relay?
There are several wires that have to be in great shape to fix Startus interruptsThe yellow at the start relay should be a 16 gauge direct from the battery via a dictated fuse,the wire from start relay to the solenoid should also be a #16The bank angle sensor needs to be closed, its interlocked with thee start relay coilI have found that jumping the battery to the solenoid spade seems to close it, it can open if the bike is droppedcausing the starter to wind over can shake it closed.
If this is the case, is clearly not a key-immobilizer issue, likely 'starter interuptus' Lots of thread on that. BLUF: Stock wiring doesn't deliver enough current to starter to engage and turn the engine over.
it shows discrepancies, saying start possible and start switch electrical errors.Why would the GD show a different voltage that reading right off the battery. I see now why it won’t crank with not enough voltage but I used a new battery showing 12.8 before key on. Then tried another battery with a jumper hooked to a second battery but still got the low voltage signal.Am I the new “Mr Nevada”?
I have not done anything with the wire from relay to solenoid, I’ll look into that. Maybe that’s where I’m losing the amps to the starter?