Wildguzzi.com
General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: ray field on August 18, 2018, 03:18:44 PM
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Haven't been on my '03 Aluminum in about three years. About a month ago, I toted a new, freshly-charged lead battery to the storage unit (about a mile and a half walk from the bus stop, that was fun) figuring my problem was going to be with the old gas. Installed the battery: nada. No headlamp, no instrument light, no clicking starter, nothing at all. Storage unit is interior, so I can't imagine connections are corroded (what was visible looked okay).
Very likely something very simple that I just overlooked; in fact the first time I tried hooking it up, I left off a lead going to the positive terminal, so no reminder is too elementary to offer.
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Start with the easy stuff , make sure all of the connections are made , then start checking fuses .
Dusty
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To me it sounds like a cable somewhere is still disconnected. Schematic shows 3 cables to +.
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kill switch?
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Main ground corroded?
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kill switch?
btdt
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Stuck sidestand switch? Fuses? Relays? Get some deoxit and spray the f out of all connections. Tighten all connections. Compared to modern Guzzis, (I know that is an oxymoron) yours is stone simple.
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My 01 Cal Special has spent years in the open and often covered in snow. It has yet to fail to start.
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I was going to suggest maybe you popped a fuse but you said it was completely dead and I don't think there is a "main fuse" . How many leads are on the battery positive?
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Next time take a test light or meter. With the key On every fuse should be alive, test to chassis with the fuse in place if you can.
Check for Voltage on the negative terminal (the lead post not the lug or bolt) to chassis, again with the key On if you find anything you have a bad ground.
Of course check the battery Voltage post to post as well.
As John A suggests look for an extra wire that may have slipped out of sight.
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All helpful, keep'em coming.
Will certainly recheck the connections -- bad lighting conditions inside the storage building, so this time I'll roll it out. Also bringing my voltmeter this time.
I thought about the sidestand, but even putting it up didn't help (plus that doesn't cut the headlight, right?)
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All helpful, keep'em coming.
Also bringing my voltmeter this time.
:grin: :grin: :grin: These things are basically a necessity troubleshooting I find. Hope you get it sorted Ray.
Many years ago my bro had a little Honda 100, always had an intermittent miss. Tried everything, failed, and finally brought it round so I could run my meter over it. Everything checked out voltage wise but when I checked for resistance it came back to the ignition switch. Sometimes it had zero resistance when on, sometimes up to 20 ohms. Bypassed the switch and he promptly went faster in 3rd than it had ever done before.
Don't think that would be your problem but shows how little things can make a difference. Probably wouldn't hurt to check that the feed to the electrics is actually going hot when you turn the key.
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Well, could you have reversed polarity in the dark?
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Voltmeter... and a good flashlight. Make sure all the wires are hooked up, which can be tough inside the battery well.
Stupid question... did you voltage check the battery, and make sure you have the polarity right? Check the simple things first...
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Rats haven't eaten any critical wires?
Last year rats in Florida ate the wires off 2 injectors in wife's new 4Runner. Took them one overnight adventure.
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Try to keep it simple.
Verify that you made ALL of the battery connections, on the proper posts.
Get a meter and measure the battery.
Check the fuses.
Since the lights stay out with the key on, it is not the kill switch or sidestand switch or anything like that.
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kill switch?
My thought as well. Very easy to overlook, especially when you don't use it. Me, I never used it on my older bikes and if someone, (or myself), flipped it, I would spend a minute scratching my head.
John Henry
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Tried again the other day:
1) fuses look fine
2) double and triple checked connections, still no go.
3) put the meter on the terminals, battery shows plenty of juice. Once the battery is installed, when the key is switched on, if I connect the meter to the terminals, there's scarcely any current, which I guess means it's going elsewhere, though of course not to where it's supposed to.
As should be obvious, I'm pretty ignorant (but willing to learn!) If there's a resource I can check out, please point me that way.
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Sounds like a bad battery or the polarity is reversed .
Dusty
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At this point dude, I'd take it to the auto sparks or the nearest bike shop.
You are obviously not even slightly interested in following any of the good advice proffered by the good folks who care round here so why waste any more of their valuable time.
I think you might be a pain in the a$$. Prove me wrong, I'm always willing to be edumacated.
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eter on the terminals, battery shows plenty of juice. Once the battery is installed, when the key is switched on, if I connect the meter to the terminals, there's scarcely any current, which I guess means it's going elsewhere, though of course not to where it's supposed to.
I assume you mean 'scarcely any VOLTAGE' when the key is on.
Bad battery. If you load the voltage on the battery that low, smoke would be pouring out of something. No smoke, no battery power.
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Sounds like a bad battery or the polarity is reversed .
Dusty
Yep
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OK you know what it sounds like?
Take off the terminals, get some heavy duty sandpaper and really sand the fuc$ out of the inside of each of the terminal connectors and around each of the battery posts and re assemble.
This is basics 101. if this fixes it then next time get real about cleaning terminals or just take it somewhere as you are obviously not DIY. There are plenty who are not and its nothing to be ashamed about. It just costs a bit more. Simple.
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I'm confused by what you mean by "put the meter on the terminals, battery shows plenty of juice. Once the battery is installed, when the key is switched on, if I connect the meter to the terminals, there's scarcely any current, which I guess means it's going elsewhere, though of course not to where it's supposed to."
Do you mean you are not seeing any voltage drop across the battery terminals?
What is the battery voltage?
Have you checked the battery ground connection at the battery and frame?
As others have stated check all the battery connections are in place
Do as Roy asks (between him and Wayne you will not get better Guzzi electric guys). Put the meter to Voltage and the neg meter lead to the frame or engine, use the positive lead to check all the fuses one by one, with ignition on they should all be at the same voltage, more or less as the battery voltage.
If the thing is completely dead with the ignition switch on I don't think it's the kill switch
Is the wiring diagram like this? Guzzi Stone?
http://www.thisoldtractor.com/guzzi007/schematics/2002_Stone.gif (http://www.thisoldtractor.com/guzzi007/schematics/2002_Stone.gif)
If you don't respond with answers to the questions asked then folks can't troubleshoot it further for you
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Remember the guys gotta walk a mile and a half from the bus stop to work in a dark shed with no real knowledge
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Where's the 'Go and get it fixed by a pro' emoticon? :violent1: