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1978 Le Mans restoration

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2WheelsUp:
Ok so I've decided to powder coat the frame after all... now just need to choose the powder.  The frame is stripped and hole for the pins are blocked but do I need to block off all frame holes, just threaded holes, or don't worry about it? 

I'm planning on powder coating the headlight bucket, lens, and the ears.  Should these more delicate parts be chemically stripped rather than sand blasted before coating?

Canuck750:

--- Quote from: 2WheelsUp on December 06, 2021, 12:11:58 PM ---Ok so I've decided to powder coat the frame after all... now just need to choose the powder.  The frame is stripped and hole for the pins are blocked but do I need to block off all frame holes, just threaded holes, or don't worry about it? 

I'm planning on powder coating the headlight bucket, lens, and the ears.  Should these more delicate parts be chemically stripped rather than sand blasted before coating?

--- End quote ---

The powder coater I use specializes in automotive and motorcycle work, he also does commercial work but understands the expectaions of customers completing a restoration. The shop I use does all their own blasting, preheating, cleaning etc, and they take care of blanking off all holes, bearing surface etc. Doing your own prep requires a lot of work to get the base material properly cleaned and prepped, I use my vapour blaster and acetone wash for the small parts I powder coat in my shop with an old wall oven, I also use metal prep wash to treat the fresh blasted surface before any surface rust starts. I would make sure the coater shop you plan on using is familiar with motorcycle restorations, that they do their own blasting, metal prep and they bake out any residue grease and oil in the oven before coating.
Sand blast is too aggressive for this kind of work, at most I would use a fine glass bead or a soda blast.

this is a picture of the matte black powder i used on my 77 Le Mans restoration

2WheelsUp:
Thanks for the info. I'm heading over the powder coater tomorrow to see his shop. He does a lot of motorcycles but not sure how he preps them.  We'll see...

Motorad64:
Great project, 2Wheels! 

I did the same thing to years ago. I generally prefer paint on frames, as well but went with powder coating after seeing a few of Charlie’s projects by a local vendor.  I did, however go with paint on the wheels to preserve the raw aluminum edge of the rim and the little M-G eagles.  The painter clearcoated the whole wheel over the silver for the centers.  I did not press out the sleeve but cleaned it aggressively with scotch bright and sandpaper.  Probably due for a seasonal greasing now that I’m thinking g about it.







Motorad64:
Meant to add...I did the FAC dampers/Wirth progressive springs for the fork rebuild, but would LOVE to hear your results on the Maxton option.  Was considering that myself.   The FACs took a bit to break in but still don't offer a ton of compliance.  Lotta stiction but not sure thats the cartridge vs overal fork.   I did Bilstein rear shocks from HMB and have been very happy with them.  May go the Maxton route next year.

Once you vapor or bead blast one component you kind of have to do it all, but its worth it.  Looks great and should be easier to keep clean.  My wiring also looked intact but was pretty crispy.   The Greg Bender harnesses are great and he's super helpful to work with on any issues you run into.  I had the same likely battery acid damage and overspray on my swingarm, as well. 

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