Wildguzzi.com
General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: ITSec on July 14, 2015, 10:42:54 PM
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A number of people have mentioned that dealers are now recommending a new part for replacing the oil pressure sensor - usually, the new one is part number 641541. Our friends at AF1 Racing cross-reference this to earlier part numbers (ex AP9150414) (ex AP0956169) (ex AP8550512) (ex GU31768780).
Note that last one - it's the infamous oil pressure sensor used on many Moto Guzzis, the one with the nail-top head! The replacement, however, uses a spade-style connector, and there's (literally) the rub. On the newer big blocks, the alternator may be very close to the top of the sensor, and use of a standard connector may be a problem.
Old sensor at left, new one on right:
(http://people.delphiforums.com/ITSecurity/Wiring/GuzziOilPressureSensorOld.jpg) (http://people.delphiforums.com/ITSecurity/Wiring/GuzziOilPressureSensorNew.jpg)
I've come up with a possible solution that allows use of either of these sensors, and that should work in almost any bike. It can be installed with minimal tools or skill; if you can get to the sensor, you can install this changed wiring. I can't change the location of the alternator or the height of the sensor, but this should solve the problem for many of you!
The actual work is to clip the old wiring just behind the boot connector, and remove that frustrating part. The kit includes a fully insulated crimp connector and a small sleeve of adhesive-lined shrink-wrap tubing. Slide the tubing onto the wire that's still left, strip the tip of the wire, crimp on the supplied connector, and then slide the shrink-wrap up into place. When you heat it, it will tighten up - and the adhesive will seal the joint!
Now, select the correct pigtail for the type of sensor you have.
- The old style sensor uses the slide-on clip instead of the unwieldy boot. Attach the slide-on clip to the sensor, and attach the other end to the connector you just installed.
- If you have the new sensor, use the pigtail that has the 'flag' connector at the end. Slide the flag over the sensor's spade connector, and again, plug the other end into the connector you just installed.
The supplied pigtails have been assembled using proper crimping tools and adhesive-lined shrink-wrap on all connections, and have been continuity and resistance checked.
Here's the tricky part - how do you get this easy-to-install problem solver?
EASY!
I am offering, while supplies last, postage and handling included within the US and Canada, one of these kits for free (as in beer!) - to anyone who asks, with only one condition: you must have given a donation to the operator of this forum in 2015. I don't care if the donation was big or small, but it must be in the current year.
This is a way for me to contribute back to the Guzzi community and to encourage support for the forum operators, and hopefully to get each of you to consider helping them too.
I will post pictures of the kit wiring as soon as I receive the slide-on connectors (in the next few days), and will have them ready to ship in about a week or so.
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I don't have one at hand, but I'll look into it - if Mike Haven or the gang at AF1 are watching, they may be able to compare the two.
Usually if there is an 'official' replacement of one part with another number, the two are mechanically the same.
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from the two pictures above, the one on the right looks like it has a finer thread.
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My new oil pressure sending unit came with another problem. The threaded portion was smaller the old unit and required an adaptor to fit the hole. The adaptor added about 3/4 in height and this meant I couldn't fit it under alternator. If I am ever forced to use this new part, I am going to try and fix up some swagelok fittings and then I can turn the unit sideways without any clearance issues.
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I'm not familiar with the engine layout, so I'm asking to learn . . . if the nail head works but the spade head is too long, can't you just bend the spade over?
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I'm not familiar with the engine layout, so I'm asking to learn . . . if the nail head works but the spade head is too long, can't you just bend the spade over?
Given that the spade is part of a plate that goes through the insulator to the actual pressure sensing component, any hard manipulation of the spade could lead to leakage along that plate through the insulator. Some of these new units have already been reported as having issues of seepage on those seams, so I'd avoid it if possible.
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Here is a photo detailing what's in my free kit (with a donation to the forum) - two leads, and the required parts to change from the old boot to the selectable lead style that will work with either sensor type.
(http://people.delphiforums.com/ITSecurity/Wiring/Kit%20Contents%20-%20small.jpg)
I found that installing this got rid of an intermittent connection problem with the boot connector, so whether you use the old or new connector, and even if you use an L-swage to fit it, this kit will make your life easier!
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Looks great, and very timely for me.
My SERVICE message came on once last year on my Griso 1100. This year so far already it's about 5-6 times, but clears if I restart (usually). Becoming a pain, so this should make it go away for good.
Thanks
Eric
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The threads are completely different.
I went to replace mine, as it was causing some problems this winter, and ordered a new one from Harper's. The old one is the one on the left (which my B1100 has), and the one with the supposed right part number was the one on the right. No way to make it work, unless you can make a thread adapter. Old is a metric thread (10x1.75?? if I remember correctly), and the new one seems to be either NPT (pipe thread) or a BSPT thread.
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A number of people have mentioned that dealers are now recommending a new part for replacing the oil pressure sensor - usually, the new one is part number 641541....
Old sensor at left, new one on right:
(http://people.delphiforums.com/ITSecurity/Wiring/GuzziOilPressureSensorOld.jpg) (http://people.delphiforums.com/ITSecurity/Wiring/GuzziOilPressureSensorNew.jpg)
I've come up with a possible solution that allows use of either of these sensors, and that should work in almost any bike.
I believe I can help.
The one at the left is a modern big-block switch for a Griso 1100 or Breva 1100 (and probably others, maybe including early 1200's?). I just measured the thread of my spare with a thread gauge and caliper. It is metric M12x1.5, as found on the METRIC THREAD -- EXTENDED THREAD SIZE RANGE (ISO) page at the comprehensive Maryland Metrics thread reference page, https://mdmetric.com/thddata.htm#idx (https://mdmetric.com/thddata.htm#idx).
The one at the right is for small blocks. Per mgcycle.com: "PART NUMBER: 32768710. Oil pressure switch for Breva 750, V7 Classic, V7 Cafe, V7 Racer, Nevada 750 IE Classic. Previously sold under number 641541." As several previous posters pointed out, the thread is different. This can be seen more clearly in MG Cycle's photo:
(http://www.mgcycle.com/images/atrex/32768710.jpg)
So if a company is recommending the one on the right for your big block, a mistake has been made somewhere. Perhaps they looked up the Breva 750 instead of 1100. Perhaps Moto Guzzi made the mistake on their dealer website.
Though I bought the one on the left for my Griso 1100 from MG Cycle in May, 2014, it is no longer listed. But there is a different version, "PART NUMBER: 978854. Oil pressure switch Griso 1200 8V, Stelvio, 1200 Sport 8V," which appears to have the same coarser thread as the Griso 1100's, judging from their picture:
(http://www.mgcycle.com/images/atrex/978854.jpg)
Note the different connector on the top, compared to the nail-head connector on the 1100 model. I guess this is a modification to the basic 1100 switch that was made to cure the loose connection problems the nail-head causes. I don't know what that new connector is, but I expect that it would work on the 1100 if the wire-side part of the connector were substituted for the nail-top's mate.
I expect Moto Guzzi figured the new 1200 switch would substitute for the old 1100 one as a replacement part, but dropped the ball somewhere along the line in explaining this, or figuring out what new connector the old 1100 wiring would need to employ.
I suggest someone try the MG Cycle 1200 switch on their 1100, and report back. Calling Rick or Gordon might help clarify the difference between it and the old switch. MG Cycle is out of stock on the new 1200 switch, but dealers like Harpers or Moto International, etc., might have one in stock. If they also have a metric thread gauge and caliper they could see if has 1.5mm pitch and a outside diameter of about 11.8mm (the spec is 11.73 to 11.97mm). I have my spare, so this is not something I'm going to pursue right now.
Good luck, and thanks for offering your suggested fix.
Moto
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Thanks for the additional info, Moto!
Looking closely at the photo of 978854, it appears the connector is a spade within a shroud, and the shroud appears to have been sealed over the top of an assembly rather like the new small-block unit. The irregular line of what appears to be a glue or sealant leads me to this.
I'm going to try and find a dealer with the 978854 in hand, and see if I can get them to give us some confirmed information on this. If Piaggio has been telling dealers the incorrect number for big block sensor replacement, this is something we need to get corrected. In either case, an adapter will be needed for any bikes that have the older wiring; I will make any required adjustments to my kit once we have the details, and will send out an additional pigtail if needed I suspect the flag connector I've got will work with 978854.
UPDATE: Having checked with Moto International, they confirm that the cross-listing is to the 641541 part number (had them check for my 2008 Norge). It appears Piaggio has an issue here. I have contacted them and they are checking into it. I'll post all updates in this thread.
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It appears Piaggio has an issue here. I have contacted them and they are checking into it. I'll post all updates in this thread.
Way to go! I'll eagerly await your result.
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New member here BAT11, Comment on the factory oil pressure sensor and threaded adaptor. Mine blew out, covered lower motor and rear tyre with engine oil. Had to get transported to workshop for replacement. It was a 2011 Norge with old type nail shape connection. Guzzi dealer obtained the factory upgraded one with adaptor, has spade connection. The new sensor has a fine thread. Sensor was $21, adaptor $17. I bought another as a spare to keep in the toolkit. That I was the only issue to appear on my Norge. Runs smoothly, average 4.5 litres per 100kms. Here in OZ. Hope this was of some interest to Norge owners. Cheers Ian
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Looks great, and very timely for me.
My SERVICE message came on once last year on my Griso 1100. This year so far already it's about 5-6 times, but clears if I restart (usually). Becoming a pain, so this should make it go away for good.
Thanks
Eric
Your kit went out in the mail today - depending on Harper's border guards, you should have it middle to end of next week.
And as my friend Tommy used to say "Vote early, vote often - and vote New Democrat!" :grin:
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Bump. Long-time lurker here. I've been having the oil can blues for several months on my Breva 1100. After reading the thread, decided I needed to give the rubber boot on the top of the sensor a friendly squeeze and didn't see the oil can for several months, but now it's back. And the sensor is seeping oil.
AF1 is selling a sensor with the M12x1.5 thread, http://www.af1racing.com/store/Scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=76807 (http://www.af1racing.com/store/Scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=76807)(NP-OP6065).
(http://www.af1racing.com/store/ProdImages/st3/NP-OP6065.jpg)
However Napa Auto Parts also sells the same switch for several dollars cheaper., but doesn't stock it. http://www.napaonline.com/napa/en/p/ECHOP6065_0167730766 (http://www.napaonline.com/napa/en/p/ECHOP6065_0167730766) Guess I'll buy one from Napa and let my mechanic figure out how to install it.
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Thanks for the heads-up and for the part numbers at both AF1 and Napa. Hard to say without measuring, but that sensor appears to be a bit shorter on top - which may reduce the clearance problem some have mentioned.
All your mechanic will need to do is convert the wire from a slide-on clip connector (for older nail-head style) to a right-angle female connector that matches the spade size. This may require a slight extension of the wiring since the orientation of the spade may affect the length needed. One advantage of the older style connector was that the nail head could always be accessed from any orientation.
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Back a couple of years my Norge started throwing up the dreaded large red triangle warning while riding, I found I could make it go away by pulling in the clutch then turning off the ignition key, let the motor stop and re start by letting out the clutch out, worked every time although a PITA. I assumed (correctly) that it was the oil pressure switch. I too, got the wrong one sent, ( mine is an '07 Norge with the coarse thread), they dug around and found the correct one and told me not to bother sending back the unusable one. The issue with mine was the slide on clip lost it's spring tension and contact was intermittent. I fitted the replacement and tie wrapped the lead to the body of the switch. Does anyone think it's possible to get a flexible hose made from a hydraulics supplier and mount the switch remotely ?
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Hi BAT 11 (Ian), how's your Norge going generally, I always take a heightened interest when I see someone from Oz. Where are you from, I'm 100 k Northwest of Melbourne near Ballarat. Also what highway speed do you have to stick to so as to get 4.5 L/100k ?
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Does anyone think it's possible to get a flexible hose made from a hydraulics supplier and mount the switch remotely ?
Well, the theory is good, but the practice might be questionable. Since the pressure is fairly low (0.2 to 0.6 BAR, 3 to 8 or so psi), the length of hose might introduce a lowering of the pressure, particularly at lower rpms, leading to misread results. Also, you'd have to run a ground wire to the sensor. All in all, I think it's better to replace the sensor, and re-wire the connector. Since doing so, some 40,000 miles now, I haven't had to touch it again.
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Yeah ok, going to be hard to argue with that logic
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Here is a photo detailing what's in my free kit (with a donation to the forum) - two leads, and the required parts to change from the old boot to the selectable lead style that will work with either sensor type.
(http://people.delphiforums.com/ITSecurity/Wiring/Kit%20Contents%20-%20small.jpg)
I found that installing this got rid of an intermittent connection problem with the boot connector, so whether you use the old or new connector, and even if you use an L-swage to fit it, this kit will make your life easier!
Just renewing the thread to announce availability of another batch of these kits. If you have requested a kit and have not received it, please PM me or post here. Nine more full kits will be ready to ship by the middle of next week.
Also, if you do NOT need the old-style connector, let me know. I can get your kit on its way faster and save myself a few bucks by supplying only the new spade connector wire; I have plenty of supplies to make lots of these.
If you have the old style sensor and want to simply replace the connector (the factory boot one is prone to problems), you can order these yourself from sources on eBay or from Summit Racing. Search for 'PICO 5665 PT connector', or for 'GM single wire coolant temperature sensor connector'. Cost with shipping is in the $8 - $12 range for one-offs.
Remember, the only thing you need to do to get one of these kits is ask - and make a contribution to Wildguzzi!
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This is a lot of work to improve the sender to a device we call an "idiot" light. For the same effort you could install a real gauge. :popcorn:
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This is a lot of work to improve the sender to a device we call an "idiot" light. For the same effort you could install a real gauge. :popcorn:
True. But then you'd have to figure out how to re-program the ECM to ignore the fact it is no longer receiving the information it expects.
If I could find an oil pressure gauge/temp gauge combo and deal with the ECM issue, I'd definitely invest the effort!
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You're making it an either/or thing. There's no reason not to have it both ways -- the stuff to keep the ecu happy and the quantitative feedback for your personal edification.
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Remember, the only thing you need to do to get one of these kits is ask - and make a contribution to Wildguzzi!
Tony,
I installed mine on my SP today, . . . so easy a caveman could do it. Thank you very much.
Tom
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Hi all, Norge 8v. I have replaced my original sensor at 11k due to oil blowout. Changed to factory upgraded one with new adaptor. No problems since,checked at 20k. Due to regularity the guzzi sensors fails may it be possible long term to fit a steel braided extension oil hose from the sensor position between the V to an easily observed location to check for weepage. The left side in front of the starter looks doable. Any thoughts.
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Tony,
I installed mine on my SP today, . . . so easy a caveman could do it. Thank you very much.
Tom
No problem - glad to offer this help to the community, and support to the forum!
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Hi all, Norge 8v. I have replaced my original sensor at 11k due to oil blowout. Changed to factory upgraded one with new adaptor. No problems since,checked at 20k. Due to regularity the guzzi sensors fails may it be possible long term to fit a steel braided extension oil hose from the sensor position between the V to an easily observed location to check for weepage. The left side in front of the starter looks doable. Any thoughts.
The concept is workable, as long as the pressure as seen by the sensor doesn't fall because of the hose. However, the real wrinkle is that the electrical circuit relies on ground through the block. If the extension is steel braided and the fittings provide an adequate ground through the hose braid, then it might work. Otherwise, no signal no workee...
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No problem - glad to offer this help to the community, and support to the forum!
I had the same thought and wanted to do it the next time when I lift the tank for other works.
It should allow us to change the oil pressure switch as easy/frequent as we change the spark plug :smiley:
(http://www.eastcoastvette.com/images/Product/medium/3942.jpg)
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I had the same thought and wanted to do it the next time when I lift the tank for other works.
It should allow us to change the oil pressure switch as easy/frequent as we change the spark plug :smiley:
(http://www.eastcoastvette.com/images/Product/medium/3942.jpg)
Yep, you could actually lengthen the hose and mount it next to the instruments so you could monitor it as you rode. Then you could also run a separate ground wire to the block just to be sure it had the proper grounding.
Maybe you could have a small lipstick camera focused on it as well so you can see if it leaks or anything while the bike is parked and your at work or whatever.
Seems doable.
Ciao
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Yep, you could actually lengthen the hose and mount it next to the instruments so you could monitor it as you rode. Then you could also run a separate ground wire to the block just to be sure it had the proper grounding.
Maybe you could have a small lipstick camera focused on it as well so you can see if it leaks or anything while the bike is parked and your at work or whatever.
Seem doable.
Ciao
Spoken with the tone of someone who's never had to put a wrench in where this thing is mounted! :grin:
Or you already have an offset crowfoot extension in your toolbox?
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I used this solution along with ITSEC's wiring kit and thought y'all might like to see a picture of the result. Neat, sweet, and complete.
(http://thumb.ibb.co/gWPjLa/20161231_154100.jpg) (http://ibb.co/gWPjLa)
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Is that a new model switch or does it have a 1" long adapter between engine case and switch.
Part No ?
Never mind I see the link to the NAPA part, it cant be any worse than the Guzzi one for sure.
Am I right in thinking it has a thread adapter to 12mm from what?
BTW welcome to the forum
Roy
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Is that a new model switch or does it have a 1" long adapter between engine case and switch.
Part No ?
Never mind I see the link to the NAPA part, it cant be any worse than the Guzzi one for sure.
Am I right in thinking it has a thread adapter to 12mm from what?
BTW welcome to the forum
Roy
It's a new model switch (641541) with an adapter (887123) from Harper's MG. I didn't check the dimensions - just screwed it together.
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this is what I replaced by weaping sensor with, about 6 months ago. Working fine so far. far easier than fussing with adaptors and extra wiring.
Duralast looks to the same connector
Part Number: PS486
Alternate Part Number: OP25891
http://www.thisoldtractor.com/moto_guzzi_loopframe_oil_pressure_sending_unit_cross_references.html
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My brother Ray's 2008 Norge has been throwing the red triangle and, occasionally, the oil can. Looking into replacing with one of these solutions.
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ITSec--any chance you have some kits layin' around?
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ITSec--any chance you have some kits layin' around?
I'll take a look - I think I'm out of the ones with the older nail-head connector. Send me a PM and let me know what type of connector your new sensor has.
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I just pulled the tank and air box today on my 1200 Sport and I'm having a heck of a time getting to the oil pressure sensor. Seems I did this on my griso with no problems but position of the sensor on the sport seems to be more inhibited by the alternator. Any tips techniques or procedures to help?
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I had to pull the left header pipe to get to it from the front and the airbox to access it from the top, it was a long and slow process, a little twist then reposition, It took awhile and I think I had to have the wife hook it back up because of smaller hands :boozing:
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On my Norge, I pull the airbox and do the inner plugs while there.
Take the black cover off the front of the engine, loosen the belt adjustment and remove the alternator pivot bolt on the left (gear) side. This will allow you to easily get to the switch.
Also you can re tension the alternator belt.
It’s a good time to secure the terminal on the neutral indicator switch at the back of the gearbox as well, while you have the airbox off.
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This is the tool I made up to do the Daytona switch which is in the same location but more difficult to get to. I have an image after welding and machining somewhere. The switch is too long for a std 1/2'' drive socket and the location is to difficult for a 22mm deep socket and extension so I cut an old 1/2" drive socket drive off and machined and welded it to a std 22mm 1/2" drive socket. I can now remove the switch with an extension with a universal fitted without pulling the tank or anything else. It works even better on a Std 2 valve engine as they are easy to access compared to the Daytona engine.
(https://i.ibb.co/nm6S6Dk/DSC01048.jpg) (https://ibb.co/nm6S6Dk)
(https://i.ibb.co/jRTKtnk/DSC01047.jpg) (https://ibb.co/jRTKtnk)
Ciao
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I'll give it a shot, but will probably end up removing the alternator.
(https://i.ibb.co/Bys1JNM/IMG-20210502-165139482.jpg) (https://ibb.co/Bys1JNM)
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Outlined in reply # 40
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Outlined in reply # 40
Thanks Huzo, just removing the nut/bolt gives enough room? I was thinking about just sliding the alternator back. I did this on the Griso (1100) , but it was 4 years ago, was a pain, but not this bad. Thanks for the heads up on the neutral indicator.
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Thanks Huzo, just removing the nut/bolt gives enough room? I was thinking about just sliding the alternator back. I did this on the Griso (1100) , but it was 4 years ago, was a pain, but not this bad. Thanks for the heads up on the neutral indicator.
Yeah mate.
Undo and remove the pinch bolt on the right (brake) side and remove the pivot bolt on the left (gear) side..
You can damn near wave the thing around your head if you do that. The switch is sitting there like a pumpkin on your kitchen table....Simples...!
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For those with the later models, using the Bosch EV-1 Connector (Same as the Injector Connectors), you can get a replacement Switch (it is a Simple Switch, not a Sensor) from any car spares place.
The switch will screw straight into the Crankcase, and the original Plug will connect straight to it, no need for any adaptors or swapping Terminals, like Guzzi dealers will have you doing!
(https://i.ibb.co/gT99X7T/dav.jpg) (https://ibb.co/gT99X7T)
(https://i.ibb.co/87b8hx8/dav.jpg) (https://ibb.co/87b8hx8)
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Someone's an old aircraft mechanic. What are the switch trigger points on that newer style switch?
Ciao
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Yeah mate.
Undo and remove the pinch bolt on the right (brake) side and remove the pivot bolt on the left (gear) side..
You can damn near wave the thing around your head if you do that. The switch is sitting there like a pumpkin on your kitchen table....Simples...!
Thanks Huzo, I disconnected the battery and terminal leads off the Alternator last night, will tackle the Alternator and switch today, and likely do a cleanup of the area while all is apart. Once the alternator is moved over, looks like it will be easy to remove. The belt is in good shape, but will likely change it so I don't have to mess with it all in the future.
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Done, removing the Alternator was Easy and much better than futzing around it.
1 - Remove Tank, airbox & breather assembly
2 - Disconnect Battery and remove wires
3 - Remove Black alt belt cover
4 - Remove Bolts off right (brake side) Coilpack for easy access to alt slide bolt & remove
5 - Remove alt pivot nut (clutch side) and slide bolt out, remove alt belt.
6 - Slide Alternator back & remove
7 - You now have easy access to the oil pressure switch. Remove with 21mm box wrench (or 13/16)
8 - Clean everything up & R&R
Total time not counting tank removal was 45 minutes, and gives opportunity to change alternator belt, check connections to alternator, and is relatively easy. I spent less time doing this than I did futzing around trying to get at the bolt.
I sourced my OPS from MG Cycles, and it was a direct plug & play, no issues. I was also able to slide the rubber cap over the connector with needle nose pliers, and there is no touching the alternator nut, as the socket slid on to do a final tightening.
Removing the right coil pack made access to the adjuster easy.
(https://i.ibb.co/CvPFzqp/IMG-20210504-132057523.jpg) (https://ibb.co/CvPFzqp)
New Switch compared to old
(https://i.ibb.co/DtHNxYK/IMG-20210504-141903399.jpg) (https://ibb.co/DtHNxYK)
Alternator out and back in with everything connected.
(https://i.ibb.co/tQjChpy/IMG-20210504-134023534.jpg) (https://ibb.co/tQjChpy)
(https://i.ibb.co/285ZVgj/IMG-20210504-132321454.jpg) (https://ibb.co/285ZVgj)
Hooked up the air temp sensor in the air box and turned on the key, No more triangle of death.
(https://i.ibb.co/WnS9YyS/IMG-20210504-134734025.jpg) (https://ibb.co/WnS9YyS)
Next up is hard wiring my Tom Tom Power Lead to the Stock GPS power. I have it terminated in a Tender plug and plug in a dual port USB power plug with volt meter, and it also powers my aux led lights. Wanted to do more, but ran out of time, did this during lunch. Back to work....
(https://i.ibb.co/ZSjBPHg/IMG-20210504-134748859.jpg) (https://ibb.co/ZSjBPHg)
Thanks for the input Huzo! I would still be fighting for hours if I had not done it this way.
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No worries.
I tend to do the inner plugs when the airbox is off, if they are close to needing changing.
Some rubber grease is handy on the connectors that fit onto the TB’s as well and I find it handy to re fit the black air intakes without the clamps.. (fitting them after the box is back on).
Well done..!
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Someone's an old aircraft mechanic. What are the switch trigger points on that newer style switch?
Yep! Did 42 yrs as an Aircraft Engineer with BA, took Voluntary Redundancy last Aug.
LENGTH : 41.25 mm
SPANNER SIZE: 24
OUTER THREAD : M12 x 1,5 mm
NUMBER OF CONNECTORS / PORTS: 1
FUNCTION: Oil Pressure Switch
SWITCH POINT TO: 0.5 bar
SWITCH POINT FROM: 0.2 bar
COLOUR CODING: Black
THREAD LENGTH : 12 mm
It's been on my 2009 Stelvio now for a couple of years, no issues.
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Yep! Did 42 yrs as an Aircraft Engineer with BA, took Voluntary Redundancy last Aug.
LENGTH : 41.25 mm
SPANNER SIZE: 24
OUTER THREAD : M12 x 1,5 mm
NUMBER OF CONNECTORS / PORTS: 1
FUNCTION: Oil Pressure Switch
SWITCH POINT TO: 0.5 bar
SWITCH POINT FROM: 0.2 bar
COLOUR CODING: Black
THREAD LENGTH : 12 mm
It's been on my 2009 Stelvio now for a couple of years, no issues.
Thanks for the info. Same here, 42 years with QF and VR five years ago. You can always tell as most non aviation people can't lockwire.
Ciao
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Just found this, knew I'd seen the Switch type listed somewhere . . .
(https://i.ibb.co/LnRf6R1/upload-2020-9-26-17-31-53-png.png) (https://ibb.co/LnRf6R1)
So it's a 'Normally Closed' (NC) Switch, circuit 'opens' when the Oil reaches the pre-set pressure.