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That is a nice looking kit! John Henry
LED?Those sure appear to be an H3 incandescent. No fins for the heat sink.Even the wires are not colored for polarity.I am going with NOT LED.
I'd encourage you to invest or even better yet build a simple wiring harness with a relay so that the light are connected to a keyed power source and also toggled on/off via the switch. Bare relay blocks and spade connectors are $7 for five sets of them from Amazon. Here's a simple wiring diagram:
I was planning to connect those extra lamps to bike's ignition switch (not directly to battery) ... so if the main power is turned off ... the lamps can not be on either (can not use battery). I also want to install that separately on/off switch. Using it then the main power is on. Will that make sense?
Those are small fog lights. Maybe they will not help much of my riding, but if they help to car drivers to see/ notice me ... they have done their work/purpose.I'm just bit worry that if I connect them directly to battery ... they can run down my battery (if I forgot to leave them on) ... or if someone just would switch them on ... as I have parked bike somewhere.
That is why you use a relay, and always a fuse of course.
Now I'll show up as real blond ... ok, I understand reason/role of fuse (have changed two of those in my Mini Cooper). One kind of safety issue/protection.But what is that ''relay''? It'll control electricity going into the lamps/lights, right? So is it that switch (on - off switch I'm planning to intall into handlebar) or something else/extra? If it is that switch ... there is always risk (possibility) that lights can be let ''on'' even as bike is parked. Or is it something else (separately part/compaund) installed between battery and that switch? If it is this, how it will ''know'' to turn electricity down/off (as bike is parked, engine stopped, key taken away from ignition switch)?
A relay would be tapped into a switched circuit. That side of the relay will turn on/off the power to the aux lights.
But what is that ''relay''?
I agree with Wayne. The bulbs are low-wattage 12V used in landscape lights. I have a similar-design fork-mounted lights that use those bulbs. You can replace them with brighter LEDs such as the MR11 or MR16 depicted at https://www.superbrightleds.com/cat/landscape-bulbs/
Honestly I think that original halogen lamp is 50W and not 5W (50W seems to be pretty common) ... and bases on text on the lamp too (3 photo). Still recommend to change LED lamps? Which one?
You could install those. You absolutely want a switch and relay (and fuse), AND a voltmeter. You did not say what bike you have, but most models, other that the CARC models, have marginal charging systems. They may only have enough 'juice' when rolling down the road over 3500 RPM. A voltmeter will let you know.Many years ago I came up with a device to dim my 55 watt lights, if the charge voltage was low. Going down the road , the lights were at 100%. Stop for a red light, or slow traffic, and they would dim. I still have that device on my bike (an EV), but now have LED lighting. The lights seldom need to dim because I always get good charge voltage.You can get pretty good LED lights for under $30 off of Amazon. A 10 watt LED, will make about the same light as a 55 watt incandescent.
The two major selection factors are color temperature and beam spread. For instance one of those bulbs has a color temperature of 3,000K (Kelvin) which is more of an Amber and is great for conspicuity but not so much for illumination. Daylight color temperature is about 4,500K which is best for illumination because that's what the human eye is evolved for. If you want a Spot beam illumination ahead of your headlight then you want a narrow beam angle, 60 degrees or less. If you want more illumination to the sides then you want a Flood beam of 120 degrees or thereabouts. The integrated reflector is the primary determinate for beam pattern.Another selection factor is input power: more power means more lumens (illumination intensity). 10W is about the same amount of power as your turn signal bulb. From a wiring perspective, you can easily go double that. But from a heat perspective the bulb might have a shorter life in your sealed housing. But you will be riding 10s of hours rather than illuminating a garden for 1000s of hours so I would get the most powerful bulb you can with the color temperature and beam pattern you need.