76 Convert

[Bulldog9]

All four of mine flash, so did those of the G5 I just rewired. The dash warning lights did not flash with the "4-ways" though, only with the signals. Probably just a matter of moving a few wires to different positions.

Interesting, my dash lights work when the switch is engaged. The Owners manual identifies that switch as 'rear emergency flashers', and the wire diagram I have (c.1975) also shows the connections from that switch going to the rear lights. I'm sure it is easily modified to flash and jumped to the front signals though.

I have this colored wiring diagram that has been very helpful in sorting out some of the wiring issues. Also have in PDF with much higher resolution.

[Antietam Classic Cycle]

Interesting, my dash lights work when the switch is engaged. The Owners manual identifies that switch as 'rear emergency flashers', and the wire diagram I have (c.1975) also shows the connections from that switch going to the rear lights. I'm sure it is easily modified to flash and jumped to the front signals though.

I have this colored wiring diagram that has been very helpful in sorting out some of the wiring issues. Also have in PDF with much higher resolution.

Carl Allison's diagram? I've seen that one and several others. None have exactly matched any of the (four) Converts I've owned. 

[steveford]

Started to dig a bit into the Convert.

Bike is running K&N pods with T3 airbox, Stainless Exhaust from a Bassa, Ikon rear and FAC front suspension, Alt spacer. 43K miles. John (PO) had the bike re-jetted when he did the swap over. He owned the bike 15 years, bought in 2005, looks like from West Virginia.

Working on identifying the drive plate, and checking the hex drive. I've been able to find pics of the pressed plate, but not the cast. Does the cast drive plate have a curve like the pressed? Is the pressed plate really thin tin?  I initially thought it may have the pressed plate, not so sure now. Cant really tell from this.





No winglets or rear seat cowl, but that's fine I would have removed them anyhow.

Bike also has what looks to be an aftermarket rear brake pedal. It goes under the footboard.  Has to be unique. John didn't put it on the PO to him must have, as well as addressing the drive plate. Likely isn't original with 43K miles. John only rode it about 6K miles the 15 years.




img world

 
I've pulled the Windjammer and bags off, plan to put a stock style headlight and directionals up front, solo seat, and DB bags back on.

Plan is Bucket supports and CEV directionals/stalks from MG Cycle (without side reflector), and an H4 Hella housing with the Native ADV bulb. Seat from Harpers. Not sure if I want a rear rack or not, or swap the crash bars out for chrome. Time will tell.

Will use the lights in the bags for directional and extra brake light. Instead of playing the snip and solder game again if I decide to put the Vetter back on, I am going to wire in a heavy duty weatherproof pigtail connector to the headlight and turn signal bundle, and the harness on the Vetter, and have it's mate on the bike. This way if I decide to put the Vetter back on will be a plug and play affair.

Here is how it sits, have the front loom open to start wiring in pigtail, and the rear fender cleaned up nicely. By no means a perfect paint job, but a little patina is nice on a classic.

If you decide you don't like that brake pedal, please shoot me a PM. I've been looking for one of those for a long time.

[Bulldog9]

Steve, unlikely, as I like the setup, but will keep my eyes open for one.

[Bulldog9]

Carl Allison's diagram? I've seen that one and several others. None have exactly matched any of the (four) Converts I've owned. 

It may be, can't remember where I found it.  This does match my bike (now ), particularly the dash, lighting and directional wiring.

[Bulldog9]

Progress continues on the Convert, did the final mounting and wiring for the bags.


Other than lining the bottom of the bags with carpet, and attaching lanyards to the covers so they don't bow off or get lost, I am pretty much done until I can ride it.

After I ride it a bit will change the oil, trans and rear diff gear oil. All the oils have low miles on them, but are old. I want to run it a bit and change when hot, then start putting the miles on. So far, everything looks spot on. I will do the tires next winter unless they are hard and not grippy. They look great, and have no cracks, but are old. I wont be going too far on my limited riding this summer (assumption).  Hope to ride it to a Rally in 2021.

Looking at the pics, I see the license plate and turn signals are crooked, gotta fix that. May have to adjust fenter too.  The bags and pipes are exactly even side to side.

I drilled a hole in the bags by the lower rear bracket, very close to the license plate.  Popped little LED's into the light housings. Outer lights come on with brakes, inner with the tail light.













I'll leave the bags on till I am ready to change the tires, and rear diff fluid. VERY hard not to give in to the itch to ride.

[Antietam Classic Cycle]

 

[kingoffleece]

How nice!
Looks like nobody answered since you asked, so: we installed an Outsider kit when I had my new to me Jackal a few years ago at Hamlin's shop-did a few other things as well.  6000 miles later all is good.

[fotoguzzi]

Really nice work Bulldog! Those bags are great.

[Bulldog9]

Really nice work Bulldog! Those bags are great.

Yeah, I am really liking this bike. Looks wise it scratches every itch.... Looks so much better (IMO) without the barcalounger seat, rack, lollypop T/S and Windjammer. I know it will NOT be a performance beast, but most Guzzi's arent. Looking forward to many miles on this.

**OK hate to ask an oil question, but.......... I run Bran Penn 20w/50 semi synthetic (The PA GREEN oil) in my P cars. It is high in zinc and all that, similar to the Valvoline racing VR1  (which I have also used)  I have a case of it, and would think it will work well. With a 2K change schedule, this could be expensive, but oh well. I've also used the Rotella non synthetic 15w/40, anyone running this in the older Tonti or Loops? or something else.  DONT want to turn this into an oil debate thread, just want to see what others are using.

[Bulldog9]

How nice!
Looks like nobody answered since you asked, so: we installed an Outsider kit when I had my new to me Jackal a few years ago at Hamlin's shop-did a few other things as well.  6000 miles later all is good.

Thanks.  I was talking with Dave Richardson about this, and he pointed out that the Filter change is recommended at 9K, so with oil changes every 2K, I'll likely just leave it as is and change the filter every 4th or 5th oil change. May send a sample for kicks.

[chuck peterson]

All I could think of when I saw my vert/DB bags from this angle?

Big A$$ Bottom Betty is your name..

.love the spit and polish, and finish your getting to here, bravo!

[Bulldog9]

All I could think of when I saw my vert/DB bags from this angle?

Big A$$ Bottom Betty is your name..

.love the spit and polish, and finish your getting to here, bravo!

LOL, indeed....... Queen provides a fitting theme song.....  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VMnjF1O4eH0

Told my wife I was going to name it J-LO..... She wasn't impressed.......

As for the spit and polish, I'm an annual cleaner, just ride during the season, and try to keep the tank and painted parts clean, the rest is just maybe a hose of if muddy. Then in the winter months I disassemble, clean, service and reassemble.  Part of the reason why my 79XS11 which I've owned since 1984 still looks like this. But during the riding season, only the tank and body parts get any attention. I use a dustless spray wax/cleaner.

[Antietam Classic Cycle]

**OK hate to ask an oil question, but.......... I run Bran Penn 20w/50 semi synthetic (The PA GREEN oil) in my P cars. It is high in zinc and all that, similar to the Valvoline racing VR1  (which I have also used)  I have a case of it, and would think it will work well. With a 2K change schedule, this could be expensive, but oh well. I've also used the Rotella non synthetic 15w/40, anyone running this in the older Tonti or Loops? or something else.  DONT want to turn this into an oil debate thread, just want to see what others are using.

I've been running Rotella T (now T4) 15w40 in my own and customer's Guzzis for the last 10(?) years. When I had the old Mercedes 300CD and '93 Eurovan, it was my "fleet" oil, used in everything. The '02 Eurovan and '89 Mercedes both really needs synthetic oil, so now the Rotella is just in the Guzzis.

[dustybarn]

**OK hate to ask an oil question, but.......... I run Bran Penn 20w/50 semi synthetic (The PA GREEN oil) in my P cars. It is high in zinc and all that, similar to the Valvoline racing VR1  (which I have also used)  I have a case of it, and would think it will work well. With a 2K change schedule, this could be expensive, but oh well. I've also used the Rotella non synthetic 15w/40, anyone running this in the older Tonti or Loops? or something else.  DONT want to turn this into an oil debate thread, just want to see what others are using.

I run 20W50 Brad Penn in pretty much everything I have that has a non-roller valvetrain, my Loop included.

[Yeahoo Whoyah]

Filter change is recommended at 9K

The '76 Convert I purchased 3-years ago, at 10,500-miles, had never had the sump removed for a filter change. I was not expecting it to look this good.   

[fotoguzzi]

Oil change every 2k might be a little overkill.

[Bulldog9]

Oil change every 2k might be a little overkill.

Maybe so, but you can argue with the manual on that. Calls for oil change and valve adjust every 2000 miles.

[Howard R]

I believe "The Manual" back in the day of no filter called for 3,000 mile dinosaur juice changes, I suspect they just didn't bother to modify the mileage with the advent of filters.  With the smaller UFI filters they recommended filter every other time.  When they went to the larger filter (which I believe applies to the Convert, but I could be mistaken) it was still 3,000 for oil with filter every 3rd, indicating that the factory thought the larger filter was good for 9,000 miles.

What I have found convenient (with an outside filter adapter) is oil & filter every 5,000 miles.  That lets me just use the odometer as a simple oil change reminder: 10k, 15k, 20k, etc. change oil & filter.  Purolator filters from the local auto store are cheap (and good) enough for me to not think about it any further.  In my Sport 1100 I have always used full synthetic and have recently switched to 10W60, I have found that it does make a difference stuck in traffic on a hot summer day.  I have a dipstick thermometer and an oil pressure gauge, sometimes more information can be a frightening thing.

As always, your motorcycle may vary.

Howard

[Bulldog9]

I believe "The Manual" back in the day of no filter called for 3,000 mile dinosaur juice changes, I suspect they just didn't bother to modify the mileage with the advent of filters.  With the smaller UFI filters they recommended filter every other time.  When they went to the larger filter (which I believe applies to the Convert, but I could be mistaken) it was still 3,000 for oil with filter every 3rd, indicating that the factory thought the larger filter was good for 9,000 miles.

What I have found convenient (with an outside filter adapter) is oil & filter every 5,000 miles.  That lets me just use the odometer as a simple oil change reminder: 10k, 15k, 20k, etc. change oil & filter.  Purolator filters from the local auto store are cheap (and good) enough for me to not think about it any further.  In my Sport 1100 I have always used full synthetic and have recently switched to 10W60, I have found that it does make a difference stuck in traffic on a hot summer day.  I have a dipstick thermometer and an oil pressure gauge, sometimes more information can be a frightening thing.

As always, your motorcycle may vary.

Howard

I've got the manual for 75 & 77, both recommend 2000 miles as oil change, 9000 filter. My plan is to use good oil, change at 3K and filter every 3rd. Guzziology talks about this a bit too. As the bike is 44 years old, and new to me, I may send the oil to get checked at the first change.  One thing that cracks me up reading these Italian manuals, the manual says 2000 miles "or so" lol. Very imprecise ;-)









 

[Antietam Classic Cycle]

I believe "The Manual" back in the day of no filter called for 3,000 mile dinosaur juice changes, I suspect they just didn't bother to modify the mileage with the advent of filters.  With the smaller UFI filters they recommended filter every other time.  When they went to the larger filter (which I believe applies to the Convert, but I could be mistaken) it was still 3,000 for oil with filter every 3rd, indicating that the factory thought the larger filter was good for 9,000 miles.

The Convert uses the "small" filter.

[Bulldog9]

You know you're bored when.............. You carpet the inside of your saddle bags............. Had some carpet left over from a car project.

[Bulldog9]

First ride post refresh and hip replacement today.

I'm 2 months (today) out from my hip replacement, and I figured what better way to celebrate than to put 50 miles on my refreshed convert.  I had ridden this bike 2 years ago, the throttle was so sticky you had to man handle it on and off throttle, the brakes were terrible, hadn't been ridden in a while, and had that monstrous Windjammer.

Bike started up on 2nd crank, warmed and idled nicely, then off to the gas station for some fuel. Put 50 fantastic miles on the bike, bedded the brakes, and experimented with high and low speeds. I'm still processing the experience, but I can say that I loved every second of the ride, and was immediately comfortable, especially at low speeds. First ride, so didn't beat on it or exceed 60mph, but it is clear this chassis is rock solid. Can't wait to get some new shoes on it (10 year old Bt45's) and make sure all is sorted out.

I was going to put the saddle bags to work and do some shopping but I forgot my 'mask' and the safety nazi wouldnt let me in the store.  Oh well, just a reason to go out tomorrow ;-)

The bike builds speed smoothly, gets up to speed quicker than it feels, and in low range sounds great moving along at 50 with that great Guzzi sound. Put in high, and it just purrs along. Amazing how composed and graceful the bike is, even just idling on the side stand. Looking forward to many miles and smiles on this bike. May even put the full seat on and take the wife for a ride.

[Vagrant]

fantastic job u did. the converts were truly unique bikes. glad to see it restored to glory!

[Bulldog9]

Was very impressed with the brakes. I flushed the M/C & lines (still rubber, but in great shape) and dropped EBC scintered pads (my go to). Still need a bit more bedding in as I was more interested in going than stopping    I was concerned about the linked f/r pedal, as it felt softer than I thought it should be, but the old  girl stops with authority. Not Griso like, but more like the Norge, and better than the V7.

My 78 & 79 XS bikes have 70's era 'let me think a minute' brakes, and that was what I expected, but these are spot on.

AT fluid looked good, no frothing, etc, and no leaks, but it was the first ride, and just 50 miles with stopping every 10 miles to check things out.

Can't wait to ride again, hope to get a bit longer ride in this weekend to get everything hot, then drop & change all the fluids & oil filter..... Still need to check the valves too.

All in all, I couldn't be happier, cant wait for long rides.

[Cam3512]

Gotta say, that's the nicest Vert I've ever seen. I'm not a fan of the DB bags, but they look so right on that bike.

Well done Steve!

[Bulldog9]

Gotta say, that's the nicest Vert I've ever seen. I'm not a fan of the DB bags, but they look so right on that bike.

Well done Steve!

Thanks Cam, will have to get up NJ way this summer.  Yeah, I wasn't a fan of them at first either, but I tried them back on the bike with the solo seat and they work! 

Removing the Windjammer and putting a modern small sport screen really helps with the overall look.

Though they are 'classic' I think the wings and rear cowl on the Convert make it look a bit dorky. I really didn't do anything but clean it up, refresh wiring and brakes, etc, take off some stuff and add the small screen. Most credit has to go to the PO "Chef John" He kept the bike in good condition and though he didn't ride it much, kept it up the 15 years he owned it.

[Cam3512]

By "wings" do you mean the ones on top of the front crash bars?  I love those, and very rare to see.  Put em back!

[Antietam Classic Cycle]

By "wings" do you mean the ones on top of the front crash bars?  I love those, and very rare to see.  Put em back!

Took the wings off mine after the first ride - they directed air right up under my jacket. 

[chuck peterson]

Castrol 20/50 worked fine for me...available everywhere unlike the 10-60