Startus Interuptus - New Information

[Kiwi_Roy]

Kelly,
        The wire on mine just runs past the battery, I don't know why I did it that way but faced with a bike that wouldn't crank over I realized I could remove a section of insulation and touch it on the battery (dont need to disconnect anything) then later I just slipped a piece of tubing over the bare patch. I don't think there is much to gain by wiring in a heavy duty button, I only used it one time (I haven't dropped it again lol)
Note, it completely bypasses all safety interlocks so it shouldn't be easy to do. I always remember seeing a car jump the curb and crash into a shop window, little child at the wheel had pushed the starter.
Yes ride on like nothing happened, nothing to re-connect.
Roy
 

[wirespokes]

Put it in 2nd then pull it backwards against compression.
key On, pull in the clutch, run forward as fast as you can, leap onto the seat side saddle.

I tried that once with a bunch of stuff strapped to the seat. The bike wobbled badly and nearly crashed, without starting up. Don't plan on doing that again!

Good point setting the engine back to the last compression stroke! Hopefully the right side.

[80CX100]

Kelly,
        The wire on mine just runs past the battery, I don't know why I did it that way but faced with a bike that wouldn't crank over I realized I could remove a section of insulation and touch it on the battery (dont need to disconnect anything) then later I just slipped a piece of tubing over the bare patch.

Yes ride on like nothing happened, nothing to re-connect.
Roy

     I'd be worried about creating a potential short and and causing myself problems, tbh some of my relays are hard to get to, buried in tougher spots than I'd like.

     I've read about using a straight jumper line from battery positive to the solenoid, and I've done it on the older Tonti bikes up on the work table, but I wasn't aware that you could that on these new ECU EFI bikes without causing a whole lot of grief.

     I've got some nice heavy 8 gauge wire, I think I'll make up a little jumper cable to pack into my tool bag that I take with me, just in case something funky happens when I'm out.

     Btw, I wasn't aware there is a tip over sensor in the Griso, that's nice to know in the event I drop it; hasn't happened yet, knock on wood, I've come close turning it around in some loose gravel.

     Tks

     Kelly

[Brian UK]

By the way, when I pulled the solenoid apart I found the plunger covered in sticky grease, enough to slow the plunger down. Must have been there since factory assembly.

Cleaned it off, checked the pivot was free and that the pinion slid freely on the shaft, and it worked much better after.
I had already done the wiring mod to the start relay but the non start situation reappeared later.

[John Warner]

Don't suppose you have any photos from your Solenoid dismantling do you Brian?

Unless I missed something simple, mine isn't strippable, at least not without sticking it in my Lathe, and machining off the swaged-over end of the Body.

[Wayne Orwig]

Don't suppose you have any photos from your Solenoid dismantling do you Brian?

Unless I missed something simple, mine isn't strippable, at least not without sticking it in my Lathe, and machining off the swaged-over end of the Body.

You can pull the plunger out of the front end and clean it off. I used a bit of sandpaper down in one coil to remove a high spot that rubbed the solenoid. It also had clutch dust and such goo that I cleaned out. You can't get to the contacts though.

That was my fix many years ago before there was this 'startus interuptus' thing.

[John Warner]

Yes, I cleaned the Plunger on mine, it was pretty clean already though.

I'd really like to check the Contacts, I'd expect them to be less-than-perfect on an 11 yr-old Bike.

[Kiwi_Roy]

What I found really surprising in the video was the loud clunk of the solenoid coming in with no subsequent rotation, I always thought you would just get the click of the relay.
I think the Voltage must have been just enough to throw it in then it bounced back.  As Wayne says a typical LED is at full brightness with even 9 Volts applied  As I pointed out earlier this bike was unusual in that the headlight comes on at all while starting, its been wired into the city light bypassing the light relay.

LED headlights use various electronics to get a constant current through them. Most of them work and have the same brightness from close to 9 volts, to over 24 volts.
On the other hand, a simple LED array, with a few series LEDs and a dropping resistor, will be very sensitive to voltage.

If you watch the first minute of the video you will see the headlight going dim, so what's there, perhaps 6 Volts?
The fix was to supply battery voltage to the start relay bypassing the spaghetti wiring.
Sure you could probably scratch around and find out where all the Voltage is going but why not wire the starter as the starter manufacturer intended.

[Joeker80]

I found myself very thankful for this forum this weekend. I ran into the infamous Startus Interruptus!!! When my 2016 Norge wouldn’t crank, I started with checking the battery and started, both of which seemed to be fine. From there, I realized that I could hear one of the relays under the seat clicking. I thought to myself that perhaps it was a relay problem. So, I swapped the relays on my Norge for the ones on my Griso. When that did not fix the problem, I came to the forum and started searching. Within minutes, I came across a number of posts that would accurately describe what I was dealing with and how to fix it. So, a cut wire here and a fused wire there and I was back up and running. Without the helpful information posted in this site, I would have definitely had to take it to the shop, which is something that I try to avoid if at all possible. Thanks to all of you who share your knowledge on this site. It was certainly a huge help today. Happy riding, and perhaps I will be able to return the favor in the future.

[Kiwi_Roy]

Thwew is no reason to ever remove the wire from the relay or solenoid.
I'm just saying if the wire has a bare patch near the battery positive terminal you also have the option of touching it to the battery and it will crank over.
I used this when checking the compression ratio, without the key turned on no spark or fuel was added, just air from the wide open throttle.

[Zoom Zoom]

Yep, did this to my Stelvio years ago. I simply unplugged the wire off the starter and used that to trigger the new relay that I used to cut through direct power to the starter. Like someone said, covered many times.

Looking at the wiring diagram on the V7III, I'll probably do the same thing to that one of these days as a preventive measure.

John Henry