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I've seen conflicting information online, but in one of the videos, they were adjusting the valve clearance on the left-side cylinder, and in the other, they were adjusting the valve clearance on the right-side cylinder. Is this why one of them had the intake valve open (left-side), and the other had the intake valve closed (right-side) when adjusting the piston to TDC?Also, I'm rewording the second part of my question from my previous post here, because I understand it a little bit better now:You rotate the rear wheel forward to get the valves to open and close, and then once the intake valve is where you want it, wherever that is, either open or closed (see first part of question above), you then rotate the rear wheel forward to raise the piston to TDC. BUT--and my question is this--doesn't rotating the rear wheel forward to get piston to TDC ALSO change the position of the valves, which I thought we wanted in a specific position before getting piston to TDC? Am I confused and overcomplicating this? Or am I missing or misunderstanding something?Thanks, y'all.
If you watch too many tube vids, everyone has there own way. Conflicting info on where the bottom of the cam is.So, as has been previously stated and to add another confirmation.Rotate engine until you watch the INTAKE valve open and then close. Insert plastic straw through spark plug hole and adjust it as needed to keep it moving upward (depending on the spark plug location, the straw may bend). When it stops going up, then going back down, stop and rotate back a bit until it's farthest up. Now adjust BOTH valves on THAT side.A tip: If you start with the RH side and make your adjustments, you don't have to turn the engine through as much as if you started with the LH side.Now just do it!! Tom
Spin the wheel until the intake valve opens, then closes... keep spinning and the piston rises to TDC ----> THIS IS NOT THE CORRECT TDCKeep spinning the wheel until the exhaust valve opens, then closes... The piston comes to TDC ----> THIS IS THE CORRECT TDCBoth valves should be closed
I'm reading you wrong, I hope. By the time the exhaust valve closes the piston is already near the top & the intake valve is about to open, and will start doing so before the exhaust is tightly seated. Valve overlap.
My God…!How ******* hard can this be made to sound ?
My God…!How ******* hard can this be made to sound ?Put the damn piston at TDC and if you don’t have discernible lash on both rockers, take it around one more revolution.Done…!
Everyone processes this crap differently. You throw enough at the wall and hopefully part of it sticks.
Yes Kev.sometimes I want to know as much as I can of what led me to the point where I find myself and sometimes…?I just want the bottom line.You know, I don’t want or need to know how Beetle and Beard got so good at computer diagnosis of Guzzi electronics, but if they say…DO THIS…!Well…I just do it….
I wish for a new forum category for simple maintenance and how-tos.Each topic would be very specific and easy to find.Updates could be made through the moderators, so the topics stayorganized and accurate.Would that break the camp fire mentality? Too much work to maintain or just another misleading internet resource?
I wish for a new forum category for simple maintenance and how-tos.
I just finished a huge reply detailing it all in your other thread.But WTF I'll copy it here.For newbies I also think it is best that they watch the intake and exhaust valves open and close a rotation or two to figure out if the piston is at TDC of the Exhaust or Compression strokes.Forgive me, I'm going into work mode and assuming nothing on your part.Remember a 4-stroke engine works with 4 different phases of piston movement with regards to the valve train (camshaft movement).The crankshaft moves TWO full revolutions for every ONE revolution of the Cam.That means Piston DOWN, piston UP, Piston DOWN, Piston UP for one cycle of the valve train.The phases are (and this is circular so it doesn't really matter where we start):* Power Stroke (piston down, burning fuel, making power)* Exhaust Stroke (exhaust valve opens, piston moves up pushing out expired gasses)* Intake Stroke (intake valve opens, piston moves down drawing in fresh gasses)* Compression Stroke (piston up, compresses gasses)Cycle repeats.This means when you're rotating the crankshaft (via tire or rotor nut) you watch. If the valve at the front of the head (closest to the exhaust pipe, I.E. the Exhaust Valve) opens and the piston is coming UP you're on the EXHAUST STROKE you'll need to go around again.The Exhaust valve will close and the Intake (the one at the back of the head, closest to the throttle body) will open as you go around. You're on the Intake stroke now.As the Intake Valve closes the piston will be heading up again on the COMPRESSION stroke. This is it.When the piston gets to the top of the travel you'll be a TDC (Top Dead Center) of the COMPRESSION stroke.This is the point where most motors (including all Guzzis I've ever worked on) have their lifters on the base of the camshaft lobes. This the point of most lash/play.This is the point you check both the valves on THAT cylinder. Why this point, because only during compression can you be sure BOTH valves should be closed. They have to be, or the gasses wouldn't compress. On some motors, especially multi-cylinder, you may adjust valves separately, say exhaust of two and intake of two at a certain point where they are all closed at the same moment, then turn and do the others at another point. But this is a simple motor, no need to over-complicate it. Do one cylinder at a time, at the point the crankshaft has reached TDC compression for THAT piston and you're good, then find the point on the crank/valve train for the other.You can make marks on the alternator rotor to help you find that point again easily, just remember that any mark for the CRANKSHAFT will only tell you that the piston is at the top of travel and NOT whether the valve train is in the Exhaust or Compression stroke (the valve positions will tell you that). Anytime you see the intake open and then close and the piston starts moving UP then you're on Compression.Repeat for other cylinder.Bob's your uncle.Back to writing a new Kymco OEM manual for me....
What do you mean by "lash"?I appreciate the response and I'm definitely piecing together my understanding of this stuff, but I am completely new to this, so the assuming that I know absolutely nothing (including most terminology) that Kev did, was very helpful.
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