NBD 2008 Calvin Questions & 1st ride

[80CX100]

A few weekends ago, a welding repair I had gotten done on the Vstrom alum/alloy frame drop mount for the sidestand, let go in spectacular fashion,,, with the bike and me, both ending up flat on the ground,, tks to atgatt and good luck, I was unhurt. But the bike suffered some severe carnage. I contacted the welder and will be stripping parts of the bike so he can take another run at redoing the repair. But there are not many riding days left in our season up here in Canuckistan, so my ongoing search for a big road bike intensified greatly.

A 2008 Calvin had been for sale all summer locally, his original price was high and out of line, but he dropped his price by quite a bit, and I closed a deal on her late today and brought her home on my trailer. Although I've researched the Calvins, I'm not that familiar with them, have no manual and have a few questions.

I only got one key with her,,, can a new key be orderred from the dealer with the vin or ignition code,,, or do I have to order a key blank from a dealer, then have a locksmith cut me a new key?

The right plastic lower leg shield has a 3"-4" crack in the plastic,,, what's the easiest way to repair this and stabilize it from cracking further,,, I was thinking some type of crazy glue or fletchtite (used in gluing feathers to arrows, similar to airplane glue),,, then reinforced on the back with some type of clear plastic tape, similar to the clear plastic film glued on the top of the saddlebags,,, any suggestions or products that I could look for, would be appreciated,,, I'm afraid that crazy glue may react badly with the plastic,, would love to hear from anyone who has attempted this type of repair.

If my pictures go through ok,,, take a look at the shot of the side stand,,, does that much lean angle seem normal? It's definitely better than my Lemans ss,,, but it doesn't seem as solid as the police ss on my G5,,, I'm a little gun shy with ss's right now,lol.

I have always run premium high test ethanol free gas in my small engine equipment and bikes,,, but the owner of the Calvin, recommended running mid range octane  gas which has 5% ethanol to avoid fueling issues(after reading a few reports of poor fuel mapping, I was pleasantly shocked that it did seem to run strong, particularly at low rpms). I thought that a bike with supposedly lean fuel mapping would benefit from, ethanol free high test, but IDK, What would you feed your Calvin?

The one aspect of the Calvin that I am a bit worried about is the limited electrical output, to power my Gerbings outfit in the cold weather,,, I will be looking at the driving light issue(verifying that 35w bulbs are in there instead of the stock 55w)keeping them off as much as possible,,, I'm not up on all the LED craze, but are there running lights and replacement driving light/headlight LED bulbs, that I could use to free up some electrical power, is the Eastern Beaver headlight relay kit a worthwhile mod on the Calvin (worked miracles on my Lemans).

One of the solutions I thought of for the electrical output, was putting as large a battery as possible in the battery compartment,,, but I was dismayed to see that at least 1/3-1/2 the battery compartment space was taken up by a large plastic cannister/roundish box, with breather tubes, going in either end,,, is this the charcoal cannister that's part of the fuel evap system that I've been reading about or something else? Whatever it is, can it be easily removed/moved to free up room for a larger battery, what's the biggest size battery that will fit in there easily?.

Due to health and height issues, the bike has not been used for quite a while,,, even so, it started right up the first time,,,, but the 2nd start, was just clicking,,, battery had to be recharged, before it would start again,,, is the Calvin starting circuit wired correctly, or is it a good candidate for a starter interruptus fix? I would imagine a new battery is probably in order.

Included with the bike(but not installed), was a top box that I've never seen before,,, shaped like a small vinyl carry on luggage bag with a Moto Guzzi logo on it,,, has a carry handle on the end so you can take it with you,,, but bizarrely seems permanently mounted a chrome rear rack,,, so you can't take it anywhere,,, am I missing something here?

Due to height issues, the previous owner had dropped the front end, by raising the fork tubes 3/4" in the triple clamps,,, I think I recall recall that some Calvin owners had done this to address some high speed wobble/weave issues,,, should I just leave it, or return it to stock height?

I had picked up a Givi A760 fairing for my G5, and am thinking of putting it on the Calvin,,, if anyone has done this, please post a photo,,, I really didn't like the look of the stock windshield,,,(but it is growing on me),,, I just think the Givi would make the Calvin,,, look that much sexier,,, not sure about wind protection,, but would probably cut through the wind better,imho.

Getting used to the floorboards will take me a while,,, shifting with my heel is definitely different,,, and trying to find the rear brake pedal instinctively will take me a while, but I very much am looking forward, to racking up some serious mileage on this comfortable Guzzi, glad to see her in my stable,lol.

tia take care

Kelly

[elvisboy77]

Nice bike!

My guess is getting a blank and having it cut locally is your best bet.

I would put some sort of reinforcing mesh on the back side of the crack and then paint it.  I think my CalVin cracked there, too.

No idea about fuel octane and relating fueling issues, sounds like a red herring to me, if it isn't knocking or pinging then the octane value is high enough or too high.  Like you I normally used high test because of what the manual said.

Ride safe!

[Kiwi_Roy]

The stand on my California II seemed very floppy so I bought this

http://www.mgcycle.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=73&products_id=371

and I think this bracket, the stand itself was fine.

http://www.mgcycle.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=73&products_id=372

Much improved

Very nice bike by the way.

[lazlokovacs]

personally I'd keep the forks raised in the triples/yokes....

handles far better and no less stable on the superslab...

[cwiseman]

The key may be a pain, if you get a blank and have it cut it might not work with the bike, it needs the correct pass code. PM me and I'll pass along info to get you fixed up right.
I think the humbug about the co lights is bullshit, I run 65 watt bright white bulbs in my bike and have had them there for 5 years without a problem, I only run them at night and keep the RPM's up where it should be.
If you get some buffeting from the windshield lay it back as far as the adjustment will allow. It helps a bit.

[janusz]

<CUT>
If my pictures go through ok,,, take a look at the shot of the side stand,,, does that much lean angle seem normal? It's definitely better than my Lemans ss,,, but it doesn't seem as solid as the police ss on my G5,,, I'm a little gun shy with ss's right now,lol.
<CUT>
tia take care

Kelly

I won't be able to answer any of your question, I'm very new owner of 2009 Calvin myself. The side stand bike angle looks just fine, pretty much the same as on my:

In comparison to my Audace the lean angle is much bigger not to mention the ss has some 'play', when touches the ground it still allow bike to lean further. It took me awhile to get used to and to be absolutely honest I still lean bike very slowly and carefully:)

Great looking bike, congratulations!

[fotoguzzi]

Beware of the in tank fuel pump and filter.. ongoing problem Guzzi never addressed.. the hose/fittings can pop off and the filter may swell.. would be reassuring to know the PO fixed it right.

[Sheepdog]

Linked below is a recent discussion thread re CalVins. The side stand on my '07 sits about like your '09...and has not been a problem. The Eastern Beaver solution has worked well for many for brighter lights, but I have not found that I need it...at least not yet. I prefer premium/no ethanol in my bike as the stock mapping is a bit lean. In time, I will get my ECU re-mapped and running true to the bike designer's vision. As for the crack in the leg guard, my choice would be replacement. However, JB-Weld might work for you. More info is on the link below:

http://wildguzzi.com/forum/index.php?topic=86026.0

[cwiseman]

I've ran a cracked one for two years even though I have new ones put back. I suggest drilling a very small hole at the end of the crack and it will be fine. A small piece of Black Gorilla duct tape on the back side will further help hold things together.

[80CX100]

I won't be able to answer any of your question, I'm very new owner of 2009 Calvin myself. The side stand bike angle looks just fine, pretty much the same as on my:

In comparison to my Audace the lean angle is much bigger not to mention the ss has some 'play', when touches the ground it still allow bike to lean further. It took me awhile to get used to and to be absolutely honest I still lean bike very slowly and carefully:)

Great looking bike, congratulations!

Hey Janusz,    Congratulations on your new ride, right back at you! I want to thank you and Sean for documenting your whole purchase,,, your positive impressions and all of the comments and opinions expressed in the post concerning your Calvin deal, really helped me make a decision,,, the 2nd cheaper Calvin for sale in the Ottawa area that Sean had mentioned, is the one I ultimately bought.

I really appreciate everyone sharing their knowledge, experience and opinions, so generously,,, it's what makes this place, a special place.

Rather than reply to each of you, I'll try to cover as much as I can in one post, I welcome any and all opinions, thoughts and replies, tia.

The replacement key situation turned into a nightmare, but hopefully will resolve well,,, the procedure is,,, pay in advance no refunds $50 for an immobilizer chip key, 3 wks to come from Italy,,drive 60 miles to the dealer to pick it up, then $10 to get a locksmith to cut a copy from the one key I have,,, then 60 miles back to the dealer , so he can add the new key to the ECU?, When I heard that,, I contacted the previous owner, he tracked back to a friend who previously owned the bike, who has the key, and should be in my possession in the near future. fingers crossed

Thanks for mentioning the gasline issue, I had verified that fix was apparently done by the dealer previously,,, but it's very nice to be aware of, just in case.

Roy, I will take a good luck at that shim bushing for the ss.tks

To all my fellow Canadians here,,, after getting schooled on the agip 10w60, I located LiquiMoly 10w60 synthetic for $45 @ 5l jug at Carquest locally,,, from reading on the forums, there is disussion that LiquiMoly is good stuff, but comes in different grades/specs,,, some good/bad for the catalytic converters on the Calvins,,, any thoughts or opinions out there?

Carquest also carries Redline synthetic gear lube in 75w90, I'm thinking this would be nice to have in the tranny and differential, manual calls for 80w90? If I use it in the differential, does the Calvin still require the moly additive, like the older bikes?

I put the CTEK charger on a rejuvenate? cycle on the battery, and it seems to be starting and running like a champ,,, I do miss having a voltmeter,,, I've done a little bit of reading on the new LED colored lightbulb volt meters,,, supposed to be very easy and cheap to install and durable,,, steady green when charging properly,, flashing green if over charging,,, yellow charging low,, and red if charging very low,,, would love to hear if anyone has experience with these things and opinions.

The crack in the plastic lower was worse than I thought and in a bad spot, so I took the lowers off to preserve them, and will do a stronger repair later, probably with some type of fibreglass mesh, and as little paint as possible. When I took off the lowers, I dropped one of the little rubberized mounting nutserts inside the crashbar, I then found another already missing,, so now I'm down two of these "rubber nutserts" is there a locally available substitute, or are they dealer parts?

I got the safety,plates,insurance stuff done, gave the essentials on the bike a quick going over, and took her for a good ride, here's my impressions so far.

Compared to the higher DR650 & Vstrom, climbing aboard the Calvin, isn't  like climbing at all,,, more like settling down into a low,comfy couch, what a difference,lol. I can see that the feet forward, low but upright position will put completely different pressure on my spine, time will tell how that plays out in the long run,,, but there is so much room to move around, if I get uncomfortable, I can shift into a multitude of slightly different positions. I did later find myself leaning forward at times to relieve the pressure on my spine. 

The handlebar mounted choke/fast idle seems to work very sweet,,, no hesitation, she fires right up, don't need the choke for long, she settles down into a good idle. The stock pipes have a nice low, unobtrusive rumble,,, but they do break out into a nice snarl, when you grab a fist full of throttle. I found the power band, much lower and torquier than I was expecting,,,even pulled from 2k a couple of times, in the lower gears, 5th gear roll ons from 3k resulted in a little vibration,(I think a good tune and TB sync, might cure this),,, but she'd pull with authority, once I let her catch her breath. The Calvin feels like it's tuned for torque, at upper revs, the increase in engine clatter didn't seem to have a corresponding increase in power,not like the powerful shove down low,,, btbh, I am used to the Vstrom, which imo comes on extremely strong on the top end,,, the Calvin power feels much more controlled, tractable and smooth in delivery.

I found that at 75-80, definitely could feel some buffeting, but from 60-75, seemd to be a sweet spot behind that windshield, relatively smooth by comparison, my Vstrom always feels like you're riding in a hurricane.

The floorboards will take getting used to, the heel shifting up, went very smoothly, a lot better than I thought it would,,, surprisingly it was my toe shifting down that caused me some grief,,, finding neutral was more elusive than any bike I've ever ridden,,, time and practice will help I'm sure.

I found the Calvin's brakes very powerful to what I'm used to, the linked rear brake, really seems to haul her down quickly,,, the front brake alone, borders on touchy,,, a gentler squeeze required, compared to my other bikes.

The 100 mile route that I did included the "twister route" hwy 511 stretch between Calabogie-Hopetown, so I got a pretty good feel for her,,, the suspension really needs to be adjusted and set up properly,,, I had verified that the compression and rebound on the forks were set in the upper 1/3 of the range,,, but the rear shock springs were at the lowest/softest setting, not sure what the rear shock damping was set at,,, any suggestions of suspension settings as a baseline for an average rider skills/speed 6'200 lbs?. I found it a very unique sensation cornering on the Calvin, could defintely feel the extra weight in the turns pushing me to the outside, felt like I just planted my ass into the seat, leaned back, and leaned into the turn,,,(I thought the best technique was to lean forward and into the turn?) felt very different from my normally getting over the front end and weighting the front tire in turns,,, even though the suspension was wallowing on occasion,, overall she felt way more composed than the Vstrom.

All in all, it was a glorious ride, and I was pretty impressed with the Calvin,,, it was nice to be back in a guzzi saddle, the last ride before this on a guzzi, was Christmas Day 2015, when I did the same route on my Lemans CX100,,, obviously a very different ride, but even with the different seating, awkwardness with the floorboard foot controls and extremely high and wide bars, it didn't take long to start to feel, like I was one with the machine. The Vstrom was a very powerful fast capable ride,,, not sure if it was the bike, me or a combination of both, but the ride on the Vstrom always felt like it was at a frenetic pace, sitting on top of something,controlled but just near the edge,,, hard to describe. I found the Calvin in comparison, like I was sitting in a gentleman freight train, a velvet punch, but very composed, much smoother and rythmic through the curves. sorry for gushing,,,lol.

tia

ride safe & take care

Kelly



 

[myway]

Hello an good luck with your calvin..  I'm trying to follow along but I'm not following the key issues are you telling us your key has a chip in it I was not aware of any calvins with this option.

[Sheepdog]

It sounds as though your forks are adjusted well for a start. I would adjust the rear shock pre-load much higher...at the third or fourth level...and put the rebound damping at the third highest adjustment. You may wish to refine these settings over time, but this should get the bike handling and steering a great deal better. Also, I find that my Vintage does best with 32-34 psi in the front tire and 38-40 psi in the rear.

[Wayne Orwig]

The key may be a pain, if you get a blank and have it cut it might not work with the bike, it needs the correct pass code. PM me and I'll pass along info to get you fixed up right.

How do you enter a "pass code" on a Cal Vin?

It uses a normal key blank as far as I have ever seen.

[Lannis]

About the battery and charging system ...

Your battery is just a "reservoir" for the charge that your alternator produces.   If you are using more power than your alternator is producing, a larger reservoir is not going to last much longer than a slightly smaller one.

I have a couple collector bikes where the alternator output is marginal compared to the power needs.   For these bikes, I've installed a simple digital voltmeter wired across the battery.   The display on the voltmeter draws almost no current, so unless the bike is going to be sitting for a long time, I just leave it connected - otherwise, I have a simple bullet connector in the line and just disconnect it.

Best plan is to connect the voltmeter so you can see what's going on, and then ride.   You may find that your battery (no matter the size) is not going to stay charged when running full lights unless you are at 4000 RPM on the highway most of the time.   If your voltmeter tells you that is the case, then you need to lower the load by installing aftermarket LED or other lights that draw less power, OR install an upgraded alternator. 

This last is what I've done on my older 280-watt Guzzis.   I don't know about the 2008 models, but Euromoto sells a lovely 450 watt alternator for the older bikes that ends your electrical marginality.   (My 2009 already has the big alternator).   That'd be the first thing I'd look into.   I installed mine myself, so it can't be hard ...

Lannis

[Wayne Orwig]

The Cal Vin has the same alternator as my EV.
With the stock 55W headlight, and I added a pair of 55W driving lights, I could also run an electric vest at high revs with no issues. I once also tried a second electric vest for the passenger and had to turn off the driving lights. I switched to 35W driving lights and that let me run the second electric vest. At low revs, the electric vest or the driving light may need to be turned off.
Over the years I have tweaked the system with lower wattage lights, HID and LED, and now have no issues even at low RPM.


In the end, add a voltmeter to keep an eye on it, and go ride.
 

[geoff in almonte]

Hi Kelly

We haven't communicated since we met at the Old Bastards swap meet at Felix's last May.

I, too, own an '08 Calvin that I bought from a fellow WG member last summer.  I have had several issues with mine, mostly related to the ham fisted/half-a-job mechanics applied by the PO.

To answer some of your questions:

1 - the charcoal cannister - can be removed.  I simply disconnected it at the injector bodies and ran a 'balancing' tube between the two injectors.

2 - Plastic repairs - take it to Plas-Tec in Stittsville for plastic welding.  They are located on Canotek Rd.  They do good work.

3 - suspension - sounds like your rear shocks are too soft - the PO of mine installed Gazi rear shocks and Matris front cartidges and springs.  But he never set the preload, rebound or compression - front or rear.  I have been able to set the rear properly, but the preload on the front is still a full inch out.  According to all of the suspension gurus I have spoken to, the front shocks are never compressing to the point where the hydraulics are being brought into play.  This causes the bike to wallow alarmingly when pushed in corners at speeds where the fun begins - like on the Calabogie road.  If there is more than one bump/frost heave in a corner the front suspension becomes unsettled and the bike wallows uncomfortably.

3 - fueling - Email/contact me on this - I have 3 FI maps, provided by Beetle on this board, that may help.  I have tried two and the second seems to work well.  I was testing it out when I discovered that the PO had snapped one of the manifold studs on the RH cylinder and had removed the exhaust gasket so he would have enough thread to re-attach the header.  Big time air leak - lots of backfiring.  I have since replaced the OEM studs with SS units from MG Cycle and new exhaust gaskets - but haven't had time/opportunity to run the bike thru enough heat cycles to compress the gaskets completely.  The bike throttles OK and pulls like a freight train, but low speed running is still a little rough and abrupt when trying to 'feather' the throttle.

4 - charging - the 35 watt driving lights are a good thing.  I run my electric vest with no issues.  But I am planning to remove the lights and wire in some OEM heated grips when I get the engine/suspension dialed in.

5 - lubrication - My brother in law works for Bensons Auto Parts in Perth and located some Lucas 10W60 full synthetic for about $10/litre.  The rear drive/transmission - for that I run the recommended 85W90 dino oil - PO may have put in some moly - I dunno - but I ran the same stuff in my EV for 200,000+ kilometers with no issues.

6 - windshield - I hate the OEM barn door windscreen.  I run the Sport windscreen for the California on the Calvin - and it works well.  To reduce the buffeting, try raising the windscreen a bit - i.e. give it about an inch clearance over the headlight to allow for some air to pass under the screen.  The buffeting is caused by the vaccuum created by the passage of air around the screen - and the air coming under the screen equalises the pressure.  That is what an engineer told me - and it seems to work.  The Givi may be similar in design to the Sport screen - I dunno.

Give me a call sometime and we can discuss - misery loves company.

Cheers!

G 

[guzzinka]

Hi Kelly, congrats on a new sweet ride!  I lowered the front end on my Jackal (same basic front end as all the Calis) for improved handling, not height, and it has worked out very well.  I also have the same sidestand as you, replacing those two parts plus a little grease on the wear areas has much improved it.  I've come to like the heel/toe shifting (though I didn't think I would) because it's easier to use with big boots, just takes some practice.  Enjoy!

[Ncdan]

This is s great post as I just got my 07 Calvin last Saturday from a great guy on this forum.
On the windshield issue , a member here recommended the RIFLE shield. They offer one that bolts right to your existing brackets. It is an inch wider and 4" talker, do I can look through it which I like. Being a retired motor officer I'm use to the look through and no buffing.
I found that the lowers probability need to be either left on or off as when trying to remove the rubber grommet will turn with the bolt and from there getting it out within damaging the flimsy plastic lower can be difficult. You can get the grommet from harpers.
The only thing I have found that I don't like about my calvin is the goofy looking grin that I have to deal with for hours after I get off her:)

[cwiseman]

How do you enter a "pass code" on a Cal Vin?

It uses a normal key blank as far as I have ever seen.

You can't enter a passcode but the key needs the right "chip" in it to work correctly as far as I can tell. It does appear to be a security key that I assume has a set resistance that the ignition reads & then allows the bike to start. I know of a friend who ordered a spare key for his 07 Breva from someone other than me & spent the money to have it cut then found out it would turn the ignition but not allow the bike to start.

[Wayne Orwig]

You can't enter a passcode but the key needs the right "chip" in it to work correctly as far as I can tell. It does appear to be a security key that I assume has a set resistance that the ignition reads & then allows the bike to start. I know of a friend who ordered a spare key for his 07 Breva from someone other than me & spent the money to have it cut then found out it would turn the ignition but not allow the bike to start.

Yes the big Breva, and Norge, have a key reader system in the electronic dash. The Vintage does not have an electronic dash or any way to read a secure key as far as I know.

Post a good picture of the key and the contacts that read this 'resistance'.

[80CX100]

Hello an good luck with your calvin..  I'm trying to follow along but I'm not following the key issues are you telling us your key has a chip in it I was not aware of any calvins with this option.

I was very surprised when I learned this,,, I didn't think they had the chip, it was one of the reasons I went with the Calvin,

[80CX100]

It sounds as though your forks are adjusted well for a start. I would adjust the rear shock pre-load much higher...at the third or fourth level...and put the rebound damping at the third highest adjustment. You may wish to refine these settings over time, but this should get the bike handling and steering a great deal better. Also, I find that my Vintage does best with 32-34 psi in the front tire and 38-40 psi in the rear.

Tks very much, appreciate the tire settings too,,, I'll keep it in mind if the rear end still feels a bit squirrely, after I adjust the shock, I was running 33-36 psi ft rear

[80CX100]

How do you enter a "pass code" on a Cal Vin?

It uses a normal key blank as far as I have ever seen.

I'm not an expert,,, but I am good at research,,, what I've learned so far, is that apparently, the Breva 1100 engine and operating system, is what is used in the Calvin,,

On the Breva, they enter the user and pass code through the lcd display,,, apparently? on the Calvin, the dealer goes in through the ECU with some type of device and software to enter the codes

I haven't started to study guzzidiag yet,, but I'm thinking, if you knew what you were doing and the right device, you could enter the codes that way.

I'm hoping that, I get the 2nd key from the previous owner, and I want have to worry about it,,,, but it's definitely something to be mindful of

Kelly

[80CX100]

About the battery and charging system ...

Your battery is just a "reservoir" for the charge that your alternator produces.   If you are using more power than your alternator is producing, a larger reservoir is not going to last much longer than a slightly smaller one.

I have a couple collector bikes where the alternator output is marginal compared to the power needs.   For these bikes, I've installed a simple digital voltmeter wired across the battery.   The display on the voltmeter draws almost no current, so unless the bike is going to be sitting for a long time, I just leave it connected - otherwise, I have a simple bullet connector in the line and just disconnect it.

Best plan is to connect the voltmeter so you can see what's going on, and then ride.   You may find that your battery (no matter the size) is not going to stay charged when running full lights unless you are at 4000 RPM on the highway most of the time.   If your voltmeter tells you that is the case, then you need to lower the load by installing aftermarket LED or other lights that draw less power, OR install an upgraded alternator. 

This last is what I've done on my older 280-watt Guzzis.   I don't know about the 2008 models, but Euromoto sells a lovely 450 watt alternator for the older bikes that ends your electrical marginality.   (My 2009 already has the big alternator).   That'd be the first thing I'd look into.   I installed mine myself, so it can't be hard ...

Lannis

I put that same 450w system in my CX100,,, I thought about it for the Calvin if I need it,,, I haven't searched real hard yet,,, but it looks to me like EME doesn't make a system for the newer guzzis.

I did notice a nice little power distribution bar under the seat, I think if would work well for a digital meter as you suggest,,, nice to know "exactly" what it's putting out, instead of guessing at a range. tks

I definitely think she'll be living at higher revs,, when I get her set up a little better, and get used to her.

tks

Kelly

[80CX100]

The Cal Vin has the same alternator as my EV.
With the stock 55W headlight, and I added a pair of 55W driving lights, I could also run an electric vest at high revs with no issues. I once also tried a second electric vest for the passenger and had to turn off the driving lights. I switched to 35W driving lights and that let me run the second electric vest. At low revs, the electric vest or the driving light may need to be turned off.
Over the years I have tweaked the system with lower wattage lights, HID and LED, and now have no issues even at low RPM.


In the end, add a voltmeter to keep an eye on it, and go ride.

Hey Wayne, tks very much, Glad to hear about the heated clothing,,, When I wear it, I keep the controller right at my finger tips, velcroed onto my tank bag,,, I'm always turning it down in town, and at stops,,, I'm old fashioned and wear many layers of wool under my old Rukka suit,,, so as long as it's not wet, I'm usually pretty comfortable with very little heat from the gerbings.

I like your method of managing what resources you have, rather than fixing what ain't broke,lol.

tks

Kelly 

[80CX100]

Hi Kelly

We haven't communicated since we met at the Old Bastards swap meet at Felix's last May.

I, too, own an '08 Calvin that I bought from a fellow WG member last summer.  I have had several issues with mine, mostly related to the ham fisted/half-a-job mechanics applied by the PO.

To answer some of your questions:

1 - the charcoal cannister - can be removed.  I simply disconnected it at the injector bodies and ran a 'balancing' tube between the two injectors.

2 - Plastic repairs - take it to Plas-Tec in Stittsville for plastic welding.  They are located on Canotek Rd.  They do good work.

3 - suspension - sounds like your rear shocks are too soft - the PO of mine installed Gazi rear shocks and Matris front cartidges and springs.  But he never set the preload, rebound or compression - front or rear.  I have been able to set the rear properly, but the preload on the front is still a full inch out.  According to all of the suspension gurus I have spoken to, the front shocks are never compressing to the point where the hydraulics are being brought into play.  This causes the bike to wallow alarmingly when pushed in corners at speeds where the fun begins - like on the Calabogie road.  If there is more than one bump/frost heave in a corner the front suspension becomes unsettled and the bike wallows uncomfortably.

3 - fueling - Email/contact me on this - I have 3 FI maps, provided by Beetle on this board, that may help.  I have tried two and the second seems to work well.  I was testing it out when I discovered that the PO had snapped one of the manifold studs on the RH cylinder and had removed the exhaust gasket so he would have enough thread to re-attach the header.  Big time air leak - lots of backfiring.  I have since replaced the OEM studs with SS units from MG Cycle and new exhaust gaskets - but haven't had time/opportunity to run the bike thru enough heat cycles to compress the gaskets completely.  The bike throttles OK and pulls like a freight train, but low speed running is still a little rough and abrupt when trying to 'feather' the throttle.

4 - charging - the 35 watt driving lights are a good thing.  I run my electric vest with no issues.  But I am planning to remove the lights and wire in some OEM heated grips when I get the engine/suspension dialed in.

5 - lubrication - My brother in law works for Bensons Auto Parts in Perth and located some Lucas 10W60 full synthetic for about $10/litre.  The rear drive/transmission - for that I run the recommended 85W90 dino oil - PO may have put in some moly - I dunno - but I ran the same stuff in my EV for 200,000+ kilometers with no issues.

6 - windshield - I hate the OEM barn door windscreen.  I run the Sport windscreen for the California on the Calvin - and it works well.  To reduce the buffeting, try raising the windscreen a bit - i.e. give it about an inch clearance over the headlight to allow for some air to pass under the screen.  The buffeting is caused by the vaccuum created by the passage of air around the screen - and the air coming under the screen equalises the pressure.  That is what an engineer told me - and it seems to work.  The Givi may be similar in design to the Sport screen - I dunno.

Give me a call sometime and we can discuss - misery loves company.

Cheers!

G

Hey Geoff     Nice to talk to you again,,, after hearing your high opinon of the Calvins, I took a hard look at Ian's bike that day at Felix's,,, but I just couldn't wrap my head around the floorboards and the FI. I happened to pick up an old G5, and while shopping for a dash and speedo for it,, snagged a COMPLETE floorboard assembly for it(I needed most of the parts on it anyways).

Once I had made the mental move to floorboards for the G5,, and the frame repair let go on the Vstrom,,, with only a few weeks of riding left, the Calvin moved right up to the top of the list.

Glad to hear about the cannister, I haven't lined up a manual yet,,, note to self email Bob "Leroy",lol

I had read all of your posts concerning the wallowing problem you were having,,, at the time I read it, I thought it might have been from the windshield (the fairing on my Vstrom produced an unstable feeling) but after riding the Calvin, I can see that fine tuning the suspension would help loads,,, hopefully I can do that with the stock parts.

Thank you so much for that reference for the plastic repair,,, I will follow that up for sure,,, because I've seen what my fibreglass patches look like on my canoe,,, I'd hate to see the look of that on my Calvin,lol.

In regards to the fuelling, thank you,,,I'm hoping that my fuelling is ok,,, but I'm sure as I get used to the feel of the bike I'll learn how it's actually running. I got a pm from Danny in regards to running a richer map to better cool the engine,,, which got me thinking,,, I didn't notice exceptional heat from the engine,,, but the header pipes were definitely,,, much bluer after the ride, than before. Re your bike running a little rough and abrubt down low,,, I knew nothing about ECU's or Throttle bodie before the Vstrom,,, but I learned quite a bit setting it up,,, the Vstroms were notorious for running rough and abrubt down low,,, guys were ripping out throttle body secondaries, eliminating or disconnecting sensors etc,,, but a lot of guys, thought like Pete Roper,,, get the best basic tune you can,, so I balanced my TB secondaries and the TB's,,, that engine ran very sweet,, (did need a Power Commander FC for the mid range though). I don't know how to tune the Calvin yet,,, I'll call you or pm for sure re this,,, not sure if you've done the TB sync yet,,, but it really helped my guzzi CX100 when I balanced the carbs,, especially down low, smoothed out my clutch a lot.

Re the lights and the charging system,,, I'll look long and hard to see what is actually available in LED HID's, reliability etc,,, I think I'll be fine power wise, if I plan carefully for what I have available.

Good to hear on the Lucas synthetic 10w60 oil at Bensons,,, must be the places I'm shopping at, but I've had trouble lining up gear oil in good quality and the right grade,,, never been able to find the moly additive locally,,, had to order from the US.

Re the windshield I agree with you,,, I thought it was very ugly at first,,, but it's almost growing on me,,, it is already raised up an inch over the headlight, and seems to be adjusted as far up and back as it allows,, doesn't seem to be much if any room to move on the bracket fastening assembly. This is the Givi fairing I have, it would look great on the G5,,, not sure if it's angular lines would clash with the Calvin, and if it's wide enough to cover the bars,,, if I decide that I want to jump for a fairing,,, I might go for a small bat wing,,, I think it would look sweet on the Calvin.








I will pm you,, and set up a call with you to bang heads on the Calvin,,, really appreciate you taking the time to reply so fully

tks very much

ride safe and take care

Kelly

[smdl]

Hey, Kelly!  Glad to hear you are enjoying your CalVin -- sounds like you got a pretty good deal there!

Hope to see you out on a ride sometime.  I'm at Nick's place in Inverary,  and we're scoping out some routes for a ride in the spring.

Cheers,
Shaun

[80CX100]

Hey, Kelly!  Glad to hear you are enjoying your CalVin -- sounds like you got a pretty good deal there!

Hope to see you out on a ride sometime.  I'm at Nick's place in Inverary,  and we're scoping out some routes for a ride in the spring.

Cheers,
Shaun

Hey Shaun,    Sorry for spelling your name wrong earlier in my post, and thanks very much for helping that lad in T.O. with the purchase of his Calvin,,, that whole string including your opinions expressed,,, really helped me with my decision.

Now that I've got a running ride, hoping our paths cross out on the road,,, I've been doing a lot of the routes posted in the Ride the Highlands site,,, some of them are getting closer to your area I think.

Almost enough of us to plan an eastern Ontario meet up sometime somewhere in the middle. small world

ride safe & take care

tks

Kelly