Author Topic: NBD2 Clutch Slipping 2008 CalVin Clutch wash results and questions  (Read 4255 times)

Offline 80CX100

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I adjusted the suspension on my new to me 2008 CalVin, as follows,,,raising the  rear shock springs to the 2nd firmest setting, and the shock damping 5 notches less than max, I left the ft fork's compression and rebound at 1/3 from max for each of them.

The clutch had little or no free play at the lever,,, but when you pulled on the lever,,, there was 4-5mm free movement before pressure was felt,, I adjusted it to spec 3-4mm free play gap at the lever,,, the disengagement point moved correspondingly closer to the bar.

My 2nd ride on the bike was much more spirited because the ride was much tighter and more stable,,, not as smooth and comfy,,, but not overly harsh. When I got into the twisties,,, it was noticably more stable than my first ride,, still felt a bit elastic in spots,,, but none of the major wallowing that I felt previously.

A third of the way into my ride,,, I pulled out to pass a slow car,,, I was in 4th gear 3-3500 rpm,,, I grabbed a fist full of throttle to get by,,, and when I did,,, the engine sped up,,, but the bike didn't,,,I glanced down at one point and noticed 4500 rpm,, I backed off the throttle a bit,,, let her gather herself,,, and I rolled the throttle on gently and smoothly,,, the bike accelerated fine and I made my pass safely,,, but it was a little bit unnerving,,, it's the first time a bike has ever done that to me (40+yrs).

As I mentally digested what had happened, I recalled the observation I made on my first ride NBD post "increased engine speed made a lot of clatter, but not with corresponding acceleration",,, I thought to myself,,, great, it wasn't a different feel to the engine,,, there's a slipping clutch issue http://wildguzzi.com/forum/Smileys/default/angry.gif

So I began to pay particular attention to it,,, if I was gentle with my throttle roll ons,,, the clutch seemed to stay engaged fine,,, but if I really dumped the throttle hard at 3500-4000 rpm about every 1 out of 4-5 roll ons,,, I would get clutch slip,,, the engine would seem to rev freely an extra 500-1000 revs,,, I'd back off the throttle a bit, and it would engage again,,, and we'd be off normally,,, no unusual clatter,gnashing or clanky sounds.

I've researched it,,, I understand it a little bit,,, but I have a few questions or concerns.

I spoke to the previous owner (1 yr only due to health issues 500 miles max) he states that the first owner, was a little intimidated of the bike, and just put putted around town at low revs on it (for most of the 17k kms total mileage),,, I know that type of operation is out of it's sweet spot,,, could it have resulted in the issue below as described by Rodekyll (knows his sh*t) in a post many years ago in regards to a slipping clutch issue,,, this is my worst case scenario.lol

Rodekyll "That's sounding like you're notched and glazed, which means the hub splines and possibly the outer dogs have gotten notches hammered in to them which is sticking the plates in a not-quite-looses-nor-tight attitude.  That in turn glazes the friction surfaces.  The combination will do what you describe.

The root cause of this is often the cush drive in the rear wheel seizing up.  It's there to minimize the constant hammering on the drive train.  While you're (unavoidably at this point) tearing into things, service the cush bits.  There are procedures hidden in the threads here."

First thing I actually checked on the bike was the return spring for the clutch lever,,, they go missing, I had to replace the one on my CX100,,, but the spring was in place on the Calvin, and appearred to be functioning fine.

I know the thrust bearings go bad,,, especially if there is little or no free play at the lever,, like my bike had been adjusted,,, so I checked the area of the clutch push rod,,, thinking that the thrust bearing would be toast, and the outer body would be receded into the transmission case,,, but it wasn't,, it was actually proud and sticking out of the case just slightly,,, I could see it and feel it sticking out, but less than 1 mm ,the outer body itself looked very rusty,(could the outer body stick and seize in place and my thrust bearing wear down inside, with no apparent indicatioin on the outside ?).

Dave Richardson in guzziology, I believe states something along the lines of,,, whatever amount the thrust bearing outer body, protrudes from the transmission case,, is an indication of the amount of wear and loss of friction material on the clutch plates. But when he addresses clutch slippage specifically, he states it's usually as a result of transmission oil contamination on the clutch plates, from either the conical seals on the push rod or the front main seal (wth is that gd thing exactly?).

Do you have to pull the swingarm on the CalViin to do the thrust bearing and seals? I removed the swing arm on my CX100 when I did the Thrust bearing and conical seals,,, not looking forard to having to do that on the Calvin.

After I did the conical rubber seals on my CX100,,, I kept reading that the best fix was O rings,,, but I've never been able to find the information on exactly how many, what type and what size of O rings,,, I've seen one member offer them out freely many times,,, but I don't want to mention his name,,, he'll be inundated forever,,,lol,,, if I had the right info,, I'm sure I could pick them up locally.

I've read about washing the clutch plates, (with the drain hole plugged and inspection hole sealed) with white spirit or petroleum spirit,,, please excuse my ignorance,, but due to local language differences,,, I'm not sure if they mean "white naptha gas"(coleman camping fuel) or Turpentine.

One post I read referred to having a slipping clutch issue,,, op described, washing the clutch and then using a thicker transmission oil,,, and not having any further problems?

At this point, I'm really shying away from the idea of ever using any synthetic gear lube in this bike,,, for fear it would slip oast the seals onto the clutch.?

From the symptoms I've described, etc,,, I'd appreciate any comments, opinions or observations.

TIA

take care

Kelly
« Last Edit: October 12, 2016, 11:56:09 PM by 80CX100 »
2008 California Vintage
2003 V11 Lemans
2007 Griso 1100
1979 G5 & 1980 Lemans CX100
2010 Suzuki DR650 & 1978 SR500

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Offline 80CX100

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Re: NBD2 Clutch Slipping 2008 CalVin
« Reply #1 on: October 10, 2016, 10:26:36 PM »
One thing I forgot,,, I read one post,, where an older California, had an issue with a slipping clutch,,, the mechanic,, took it out on the highway,, got the clutch good and hot,, then deliberately raced the engine while pulling the clutch lever in and out several times,, deliberately slipping and engaging the clutch plates many times at speed,, the owner reported that the slipping stopped, and was fine for the remainder of his ownership of the bike, years? Any thoughts on that?

tks Kelly
2008 California Vintage
2003 V11 Lemans
2007 Griso 1100
1979 G5 & 1980 Lemans CX100
2010 Suzuki DR650 & 1978 SR500

In a time of universal deceit, telling the truth becomes a revolutionary act. George Orwell

Offline guzzista

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Re: NBD2 Clutch Slipping 2008 CalVin
« Reply #2 on: October 11, 2016, 12:24:39 AM »
My experience with 3 Calis ( 1100 I, EV and lastly 1100 carbie) is as follows. In the first 2 cases one of the  clutch discs sheared off the splined  section  at about 40 k miles . No clutch wear/ weird slack at lever or anything sticking out at the clutch plunger body on the back of the tranny but... Slippage with power application at about 4500 rpm +.  Only solution was to replace the clutch parts.My last Cali , a low mileage 1994 carb bike, had the gearbox overfilled by the PO, resulting in slippage. After removing the clutch plunger, pushrod, as well as hosing down the clutch assembly with paint thinner, reassemble and replaced cone seals on pushrod. After refilling to correct level,  the bike was ridden on the freeway and throttle rolled on to purposely slip the clutch. After a few miles,  no more slippage and has not slipped since for close to 10k miles. Clutch replacement is on the agenda , but for now its doing fine. Hope this helps
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Offline jacksonracingcomau

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Re: NBD2 Clutch Slipping 2008 CalVin
« Reply #3 on: October 11, 2016, 01:13:56 AM »
1/ First check operating arm at gearbox end has freeplay not just cable. Adjuster for this is behind thrust washer on arm itself. this is my guess at problem
2/ Thrust washer will scream if shot, not your immediate problem
3/ Washing plates only relevant if soaked in oil, obvious because puddle of oil under bell housing when parked

Therefore
If not adjustment in 1, your problem is internal, can only be fixed by dismantling. Perhaps one plate has sheered it's revitts as Guzzista did or both worn out from no freeplay. Spline damage unlikely IMHO but of course will be obvious when apart.
2 new friction plates probably all that's needed (and a day of grunt). New thrust washer prob wise but inspect first, if perfect to look at, it is.




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Re: NBD2 Clutch Slipping 2008 CalVin
« Reply #3 on: October 11, 2016, 01:13:56 AM »

Online rocker59

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Re: NBD2 Clutch Slipping 2008 CalVin
« Reply #4 on: October 11, 2016, 07:14:17 AM »
1/ First check operating arm at gearbox end has freeplay not just cable. Adjuster for this is behind thrust washer on arm itself. this is my guess at problem
2/ Thrust washer will scream if shot, not your immediate problem
3/ Washing plates only relevant if soaked in oil, obvious because puddle of oil under bell housing when parked

Therefore
If not adjustment in 1, your problem is internal, can only be fixed by dismantling. Perhaps one plate has sheered it's revitts as Guzzista did or both worn out from no freeplay. Spline damage unlikely IMHO but of course will be obvious when apart.
2 new friction plates probably all that's needed (and a day of grunt). New thrust washer prob wise but inspect first, if perfect to look at, it is.

 :1:

 
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Offline 80CX100

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Re: NBD2 Clutch Slipping 2008 CalVin
« Reply #5 on: October 11, 2016, 11:51:38 AM »
My experience with 3 Calis ( 1100 I, EV and lastly 1100 carbie) is as follows. In the first 2 cases one of the  clutch discs sheared off the splined  section  at about 40 k miles . No clutch wear/ weird slack at lever or anything sticking out at the clutch plunger body on the back of the tranny but... Slippage with power application at about 4500 rpm +.  Only solution was to replace the clutch parts.My last Cali , a low mileage 1994 carb bike, had the gearbox overfilled by the PO, resulting in slippage. After removing the clutch plunger, pushrod, as well as hosing down the clutch assembly with paint thinner, reassemble and replaced cone seals on pushrod. After refilling to correct level,  the bike was ridden on the freeway and throttle rolled on to purposely slip the clutch. After a few miles,  no more slippage and has not slipped since for close to 10k miles. Clutch replacement is on the agenda , but for now its doing fine. Hope this helps

Tks for the reply, I'm hoping that ultimately, if I have to do a fix, it's the latter simpler fix you refer to,,, and nice to know, that white spirit is simple paint thinner

Kelly
2008 California Vintage
2003 V11 Lemans
2007 Griso 1100
1979 G5 & 1980 Lemans CX100
2010 Suzuki DR650 & 1978 SR500

In a time of universal deceit, telling the truth becomes a revolutionary act. George Orwell

Offline 80CX100

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Re: NBD2 Clutch Slipping 2008 CalVin
« Reply #6 on: October 11, 2016, 12:03:57 PM »
1/ First check operating arm at gearbox end has freeplay not just cable. Adjuster for this is behind thrust washer on arm itself. this is my guess at problem
2/ Thrust washer will scream if shot, not your immediate problem
3/ Washing plates only relevant if soaked in oil, obvious because puddle of oil under bell housing when parked

Therefore
If not adjustment in 1, your problem is internal, can only be fixed by dismantling. Perhaps one plate has sheered it's revitts as Guzzista did or both worn out from no freeplay. Spline damage unlikely IMHO but of course will be obvious when apart.
2 new friction plates probably all that's needed (and a day of grunt). New thrust washer prob wise but inspect first, if perfect to look at, it is.

If I get chance today, I will take a better look at it,,, but I do recall that when I checked it closely last night, that the clutch lever down at the back of the transmission, was indeed pointing just slightly forward,,, appearred to be more than the 90 degrees that I believe I've read is the recommended baseline,,, I'm hoping that a simple adjustment of the lower lever as you suggest and maybe a greasing of the pivot points will let the push rod settle in for a firmer engagement.

Re the visible oil from the bottom of the bell housing,,, I'll have to check closer for signs of that,,, I did notice that when I parked the bike yesterday,, there were some oil drips on the floor roughly in that position,,, but with all the old bikes going through my garage,,,it's hard to tell,,, my floor has more spots than a Dalmation,lol. I'll have to take a real hard look at the bottom of the bike, and put some clean newspaper down as an indicator.

Tks very much

Kelly
2008 California Vintage
2003 V11 Lemans
2007 Griso 1100
1979 G5 & 1980 Lemans CX100
2010 Suzuki DR650 & 1978 SR500

In a time of universal deceit, telling the truth becomes a revolutionary act. George Orwell

Offline fotoguzzi

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Re: NBD2 Clutch Slipping 2008 CalVin
« Reply #7 on: October 11, 2016, 12:20:23 PM »
At the bottom of the bell housing is a little slot where gear oil could drip out, put finger up there and if it is wet smell for gear oil. That would indicate the lube has flowed up the push rod, contaminated the friction plates. The fix is a stack of o rings in place of the conical seals, moto international used to sell in a kit, 5? I think, you can do the fix insiti once the swing arm is off, then rinse plates w mineral spirits- might work w/out taking clutch apart.
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Offline Wayne Orwig

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Re: NBD2 Clutch Slipping 2008 CalVin
« Reply #8 on: October 11, 2016, 02:03:43 PM »

I didn't read all of the replies, so forgive me if someone covered this.


It would be rare for the clutch on that bike to be worn out. It would be possible for the rivets or flex plates to be cracked or damaged.


It would be hard for MOTOR oil to contaminate the plates, but it is easy for transmission lube to contaminate them. Check to see if it is over filled. That leak can often happen if the clutch pushrod seals are leaking, if the input shaft seals are leaking, or if the input shaft bearing is failing. Check for smelly transmission fluid leaking above the oil drain plug.
The clutch pushrod seals are in the back and somewhat accessible. Everything else requires a 'deep dive'.
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Offline Tom

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Re: NBD2 Clutch Slipping 2008 CalVin
« Reply #9 on: October 11, 2016, 03:16:11 PM »
 :1:
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Offline fotoguzzi

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Re: NBD2 Clutch Slipping 2008 CalVin
« Reply #10 on: October 11, 2016, 06:45:09 PM »
tip for getting the o rings in around the push rod.. cut an aluminum arrow shaft to around 6" and it will go over the PR and push evenly on the Orings (1 at a time) to pass into the channel. might help to blunt the end of the arrow shaft..
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Offline 80CX100

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Re: NBD2 Clutch Slipping 2008 CalVin
« Reply #11 on: October 12, 2016, 10:20:33 PM »
tip for getting the o rings in around the push rod.. cut an aluminum arrow shaft to around 6" and it will go over the PR and push evenly on the Orings (1 at a time) to pass into the channel. might help to blunt the end of the arrow shaft..

Tks very much for that tip,,,I'm a traditional archer, and my favorite type of practice is stump shooting,,, so I have lots of old broken and crooked arrow shafts.
 I'm still trying to identify the o rings,,, hoping it may not need it,,, see my post below.

tks

Kelly
2008 California Vintage
2003 V11 Lemans
2007 Griso 1100
1979 G5 & 1980 Lemans CX100
2010 Suzuki DR650 & 1978 SR500

In a time of universal deceit, telling the truth becomes a revolutionary act. George Orwell

Offline 80CX100

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Re: NBD2 Clutch Slipping 2008 CalVin Clutch wash results and questions
« Reply #12 on: October 12, 2016, 11:53:42 PM »
I finally got a chance to look at the CalVin, the lower clutch lever had good free play and clearance from the push rod,,, but while underneath there, I noticed a good amount of oil residue around the drain hole of the bell housing,,,put my knife up inside the slot hole, blade came out oily,,, while under there, noticed that a previous owner had used lots of orange RTV to seal the sump instead of a gasket,,aarrgghh, it's going to be a nasty clean up at some point,lol.

With the oil seepage at the bottom, I checked the level up top to see if the transmission had been over filled, as others have discovered,,, sure enough,,,I drained out an extra 2/3 of a cup of gear oil. Doing the math, I think, someone probably figured if .75l of gear (recommended quantity) was good,,, then the whole litre would probably be better, and just dumped in the rest of the 1l container. Does anyone know how this amount would relate to the level of the pushrod inside?

I got myself set up to wash the clutch,,, the hardest part was carving a working wooden plug for the bell housing drain,,, I figured a good piece of beech hardwood would work,,, after much dicking around, I realized the wood fibres were so hard they wouldn't collapse and seal properly,,, so I changed woods,, and used a piece from 1 x 2 spruce strapping,,, that worked like a charm, nice sofwood, to collapse and seal.

When I removed the plug from the timing inspection hole, there was oil residue behind and below the plug,,, not sure if it would have been spray from inside, or someone tried to pour oil in there at some point?.

I got .5 of a litre of paint thinner inside the bell housing,,, then there appearred to be 2nd drain or opening? I couldn't see where it was leaking from up in behind the exhaust crossover out of sight,,, I was expecting to get at least a full litre in there,,, but any extra just leaked out of this 2nd hole(u/K where) I sealed up the inspection hole quickly and then I started the engine and put it into gear,,, fanned the clutch quite a few times, turned her off, pulled the wooden plug drained out the thinner,,, then ran the engine in gear again to help it drain dry,, and fanned the cluch for good measure to scrub the clutch surface.

I repeated the whole process one more time.

Daylight was leaving quick, so I geared up and rode in towards the city,,, too many deer in the country this time of day. I tested the clutch very early on in the ride and at 5000 rpm it slipped, the engine went right up to 6000 rpm but the bike didn't speed up,,, I figured wth,,, give it your best shot, sometimes you need a bigger hammer, clutch seemed to be f*cked anyways. I would try the fanning technique I had read about.

So I got the engine good and hot on the ride towrds the city,,, then in appropriate locations I would get the bike in 3rd or 4th gear,, hold the throttle at 4000 rpm then fanned the clutch, varying my engagement and release speeds for good measure,,, if I really snapped the release, I could hear a clanky clunk, so I got a bit gentler with my technique,,, did that 6-8 times,,, then the next opportune moment, I gave the throttle a full twist,,, sob, THAT WORKED,,, it didn't slip!

At this point I'm impressed as hell,,, I know it must have been rough on the thrust bearing and possibly the spines,,, but for the remainder of the ride I fanned the clutch in that manner probably 15-20 more times,,, testing it with good solid throttle roll ons,,, I did not experience the slipping like I had previously. Tbh by this time it was dark, and prudently I couldn't wail on the throttle full bore,,, but I gave it a good work out and it didn't slip again.

I'd almost like to give the clutch another wash for good meaure,,,anyone know if .5l of thinner is really enough,,, or do I have to locate this 2nd drain and plug it too (first I've heard of it)

Any thought opinions or concerns on this fanning technique with the clutch,,,, for me the proof is in the pudding that it works,,, but I don't want to spoil a good thing,,, doing it again if it's harmful in the long run,,what would the wisemen around the campfire say,,, baby the clutch from this point forward and let sleeping dogs lay or wash and fan away, getting as much of the oily residue glaze off as possible. enquiring minds want to know,lol.

Anyone know for certain how many holes there are on the bell housing,,, or is there some other opening or place for the thinner to run out? It seemed to be in the area above the right back corner of the sump.

At this point it sounds like the clutch rivets are fine,,, clutch itself probably oil contaminated as hell, ergo, why I'd love to wash it again,,,
Hopefully at a proper gear oil level, the conical seals on the push rod will do their job, and this is one for the history books. TIA

tks, ride safe and take care

Kelly

2008 California Vintage
2003 V11 Lemans
2007 Griso 1100
1979 G5 & 1980 Lemans CX100
2010 Suzuki DR650 & 1978 SR500

In a time of universal deceit, telling the truth becomes a revolutionary act. George Orwell

Offline scra99tch

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Re: NBD2 Clutch Slipping 2008 CalVin Clutch wash results and questions
« Reply #13 on: October 13, 2016, 04:35:41 AM »
I believe the second hole is the breather tube on top of the bell housing.  Not the tube itself but the casing. 

This is a question for those that have had their clutches done.  Is there any chance you'll wash the grease or librication from the thrust washer?
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Offline cwiseman

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Re: NBD2 Clutch Slipping 2008 CalVin Clutch wash results and questions
« Reply #14 on: October 13, 2016, 07:03:28 AM »
Clean the belhousing with brake cleaner and then use a long piece of duct tape to seal her up. She'll hold a entire bottle of mineral spirits, it will probably blow out the timing hole so be careful where you do it.
But if she's working fine I doubt you need to clean it again.
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Offline chaoselephant23

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Re: NBD2 Clutch Slipping 2008 CalVin Clutch wash results and questions
« Reply #15 on: October 13, 2016, 11:43:12 AM »
If I was you, I would take that swing arm off again, swap out the conical push rod seals and replace with 6 o-rings (McMaster Carr part #93125k19 http://www.mcmaster.com/#93125k19, here is the WG post I found the McMaster Carr part number from http://wildguzzi.com/forum/index.php?topic=72742.0). Never know when those conical seals are going to give out. I know that it will be a PITA to take the swing arm off again, but it's much better than crabbin the frame :boozing:

Also, if you'd rather not buy the o-rings, shoot me a PM, I'll send some your way.
« Last Edit: October 13, 2016, 11:57:52 AM by chaoselephant23 »
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Offline Tom

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Re: NBD2 Clutch Slipping 2008 CalVin Clutch wash results and questions
« Reply #16 on: October 13, 2016, 01:15:49 PM »
Ride it and pay attention to the clutch performance.  You can wash/clean again later. 
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Offline Wayne Orwig

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Re: NBD2 Clutch Slipping 2008 CalVin Clutch wash results and questions
« Reply #17 on: October 13, 2016, 01:58:58 PM »
This is a question for those that have had their clutches done.  Is there any chance you'll wash the grease or librication from the thrust washer?

What thrust washer?

There is a thrust bearing at the rear of the transmission, sealed from the clutch dust and such.
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Offline scra99tch

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Re: NBD2 Clutch Slipping 2008 CalVin Clutch wash results and questions
« Reply #18 on: October 13, 2016, 04:22:26 PM »
Anything that might lose it lubricious or such to worry about?  Never had the trans off.  Keep thinking there's an input shaft bronze bushing in there someplace.
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Offline Wayne Orwig

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Re: NBD2 Clutch Slipping 2008 CalVin Clutch wash results and questions
« Reply #19 on: October 13, 2016, 06:58:42 PM »
Anything that might lose it lubricious or such to worry about?  Never had the trans off.  Keep thinking there's an input shaft bronze bushing in there someplace.

Not really. The transmission input and engine output are sealed. The clutch pushrod is sealed (though in this case may be failing). There really is any lube on the splines one the plate, though I usually try to apply something to them to make me feel better.
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Offline 80CX100

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Re: NBD2 Clutch Slipping 2008 CalVin Clutch wash results and questions
« Reply #20 on: October 15, 2016, 12:04:23 AM »
Clean the belhousing with brake cleaner and then use a long piece of duct tape to seal her up. She'll hold a entire bottle of mineral spirits, it will probably blow out the timing hole so be careful where you do it.
But if she's working fine I doubt you need to clean it again.

Tks I had thought of duct tape,,, but it's really crowded under there, if I later decide to give it another wash, I'll try it.

Kelly
2008 California Vintage
2003 V11 Lemans
2007 Griso 1100
1979 G5 & 1980 Lemans CX100
2010 Suzuki DR650 & 1978 SR500

In a time of universal deceit, telling the truth becomes a revolutionary act. George Orwell

Offline 80CX100

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Re: NBD2 Clutch Slipping 2008 CalVin Clutch wash results and questions
« Reply #21 on: October 15, 2016, 12:12:24 AM »
If I was you, I would take that swing arm off again, swap out the conical push rod seals and replace with 6 o-rings (McMaster Carr part #93125k19 http://www.mcmaster.com/#93125k19, here is the WG post I found the McMaster Carr part number from http://wildguzzi.com/forum/index.php?topic=72742.0). Never know when those conical seals are going to give out. I know that it will be a PITA to take the swing arm off again, but it's much better than crabbin the frame :boozing:

Also, if you'd rather not buy the o-rings, shoot me a PM, I'll send some your way.

Thank you,, thank you,,, thank you,,, I have been looking for that information for quite a while,,, now filed away,,, I appreciate your offer, but I ultimately will be picking up enough for 3 sets,,, now that I know what I'm looking for I should be able to find them.

I'm hoping the CalVin settles down with the right oil amount in there,,, I will monitor it closely though,, because I agree with you,,, pulling the swingarm is one thing,,, crabbing the frame and pulling the tranny is a hole new ball game,,, one I'd rather not play!,lol

tks

Kelly
2008 California Vintage
2003 V11 Lemans
2007 Griso 1100
1979 G5 & 1980 Lemans CX100
2010 Suzuki DR650 & 1978 SR500

In a time of universal deceit, telling the truth becomes a revolutionary act. George Orwell

Offline 80CX100

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Re: NBD2 Clutch Slipping 2008 CalVin Clutch wash results and questions
« Reply #22 on: October 15, 2016, 12:16:01 AM »
Ride it and pay attention to the clutch performance.  You can wash/clean again later.

You're absolutely right,,, my good weather riding days are dwindling rapidly,,, the more time I can get in riding rather than wrenching the better.

Took her for a good run today up around Calabogie,,, clutch seemed fine, no slippage at all,, fingers crossed lol

tks

Kelly
2008 California Vintage
2003 V11 Lemans
2007 Griso 1100
1979 G5 & 1980 Lemans CX100
2010 Suzuki DR650 & 1978 SR500

In a time of universal deceit, telling the truth becomes a revolutionary act. George Orwell

Offline Tom

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Re: NBD2 Clutch Slipping 2008 CalVin Clutch wash results and questions
« Reply #23 on: October 15, 2016, 11:29:01 PM »
 :thumb:
From the Deep Deep South out in left field.  There are no stupid questions.  There are however stupid people asking questions.  🤣, this includes me.  😉

 

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