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I would try a gentle attempt with an easy out first since the way it broke there is no torque remaining on it and it could come out surprisingly easy if it wasn't cross threaded. I have mostly done such things on dual plug aircraft engines where you can apply air pressure into the opposite plug hole to keep debris out but you could always turn the engine to where only one valve is opening and blow air in to either the exhaust or intake port whichever is easiest to access. But for a "gentle" attempt you wouldn't need to do this since the hole is already there and no drilling is necessary.
All this pull the head and even a timesert even if it doesn't need it, good lord. So you pull the head and risk disturbing the base gasket, you then need to replace the head gasket, reset the valve clearances all for what could be a simple 5 min job with an easy out.Ciao
Also, I did some research and it was overtorqued. I have the shop manual but couldn't find a torque spec for the spark plug, so I used the torque spec from a V7II, which is 18 ft/lbs. Reading up on the spark plug, the torque range is 7-10 ft/lbs. That's what I get for assuming that the two V7's would be the same, I suppose.
Wow. Iím glad you got it out without too much drama. I know itís tempting, but donít try to glue that spark plug back together and re-use it. Just throw it away.
I broke a plug in my Stelvio. I had a torque chart I got off the web; the so-and-so who made the chart listed spark plug torque at 30 lb-ft.NGK spec in Aluminum: 7.2-8.7 lb. ft.I put an easy-out on an extension, put it in the hole, gave it a gentle tap to set the easy-out, and screwed it out. No drag on the threads.BTW, NGK recommends that you do NOT use anti-seize of their plugs. It is not needed because the plating they use has anti-seize properties.Dan
I learn something new everyday. I've been using never seize and "about" 30 ft-lbs of torque forever.Not gonna push my luck anymore. Obviously, once you feel the crush washer compress, you've used enough torque.
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