Griso oil return pipe drip.drip

[lucian]

Seems the oil return pipe to the sump has given up the goat. Got oil weeping through the braided cover just above the steel tube end entering the sump. I assume there is a rubber hose within that has cracked as it is an 08 model and rubber is rubber.  Unfortunately the asking price seems to be one hundred and forty seven denaro , Yikes Anyhow, can I just whack the hose off the end fitting and replace with a similar dia. fuel rated line and a couple clamps for five bucks?  Guzzi Content.

[beetle]

That rubber is harder than coprolite.

I made my own with AN fittings and nylon braided hose. Still cost less than genuine *new* part in Oz dollars.

V1




V2

[lucian]

Thanks Mark, I like it! I figure as long as I hard pipe it above the sump oil level I can cause no catastrophic damage. 

[beetle]

I used a non-return valve as its part of the secondary catch can in the expanded blow-by system. Hence V2, as I didn't like the sharp bend on the hose where it goes up behind the throttle bodies. You don't need the valve, so you could get away with a single 90 degree hose end, AN extender and the metric adapter.

[Ncdan]

Dave, is that a high pressure line?
There is small hydronic line shop near me where to old guys have been partners for years. They will bring any line you bring in and duplicate it and they know what putout need to meet by the one you bring in.
If you have trouble getting a replacement send it to me and I’ll take it to them to get anew one built and ship her back.

[lucian]

Thanks Dan, it's just a gravity return line from the condenser box, no pressure.  After seeing Marks fix, I'm thinking I may whack the tubing off and braze a hose barbed extension onto the oem fitting to get it up above the sump oil level and clamp a rubber hose onto it and call it good .  I'm thinking since I have to drain the oil I may as well drop the sump and replace the damn spacer gasket that have been known to blow out with age. Looks like some tender griso moments lay ahead.

[Guzzistaracing]

If you have a hydraulic shop around they should be able to take off the old hose and replicate it with some steel braided teflon hose. I have done this several times at the hydraulic shop that I used to work. Standard rubber hose don`t like hot engine oil! It gets hard and brittle as you have experienced.

[Charles in Lake Charles]

Oil cooler line will work, Convert related tip.

[Rough Edge racing]

That's   poorly engineered oil lines. Sharp 90 degree elbow have a negative effect on flow and pressue...it should be  full flow radius 90 or 45 and loose all those extra fittings if possible. Hydraulic hose shops may use reduced  internal  diameter fittings.....if the OP is reasonable handy you can build you own high pressure braided lines with parts from a high performance auto supplier like Summit Racing.. they have a comprehensive online catalog

[beetle]

Gentlemen, it's not a high pressure line. It's simply a gravity oil drain line from the blow-by tank. It doesn't need any fancy high pressure hose. In a stock 1200, it's usually barely a trickle.

[Rough Edge racing]

Oh, my face is red......

[lucian]

I'm going to try this stuff, 3/8 ID   and a couple oyster clamps 
https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productselection.asp?Product=3290

[beetle]

Are you still going to braze a barb on the end? I would, otherwise it will probably ooze..

[lucian]

Are you still going to braze a barb on the end? I would, otherwise it will probably ooze..

Yeh, I think i will , I'm not sure what the end of the steel tube looks like after the swaged  fitting is cut off. I ordered up some sump gaskets and will dig into it when they show up. I'll report back with a follow up. Thanks for all the replies! 

[lucian]

Wow am I glad I decided to dig into this.  Parts arrived and finally got the time, more later!

[lucian]

Well the good bad and the ugly; the parts arrived and very pleased with the hose and stainless fitting, along with new sump gaskets from MG Cycles



cut the swaged fitting off the oem oil return line to sump and found why it leaked, hose split under the swedge and as Beetle said , the hose was hard as can be.






 Had ordered some really nice 3/8 id sheathed hydrolic line and a 3/8 x 1/2 in. ss. hose fitting to add to the oem sump fitting
 The end of the original pipe has sort of hose barbs but I liked the ones on the fitting I got better. I decided to solder the two together with high tin content solder. any acid based flux will work and a little heat from a map gas torched did the trick.













The ugly part is sure enough I had a blown out sump spacer gasket. I took Pete Ropers heads up serious as this is an early 08 model and these failures are not so uncommon apparently. Thanks Pete!



I had on two occasions heard a loader than usual rapping on cold start up on the left bank top end. I knew something was up and sure enough it was. Early 8v owners be aware, i never had a low oil pressure dash warning or anything but I think maybe the left hand cam chain tensioner must have been having a  hard time pumping up with the leaky gasket.
Glad to have this one resolved!