New 20 ounce tumblers available now! Forum donation credit with purchase. https://www.wildguzzi.com/Products/products.htm#Tumbler
Sounds like I should hit up the MG Cycle guys. Charlie, do you know what Moe Moore puts in the Cycle Garden bikes?
Something's wrong with them...Most (drum-brake) Loop owner's will have the opposite complaint - too mushy or soft.
There's really only two improvements for drum-brake forks: 1) Wirth springs and heavier fork oil. I use 8 oz. of 30w fork oil in each leg. The extra 2.6 oz. over factory specs helps in two ways: a) damping for the entire stroke of the fork and b) less air gap for slightly firmer effective springing. http://www.mgcycle.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=197_199&products_id=1147
I'm getting ready to change fork oil and it's been long enough that I don't remember the process from last time. But my '72 Eldo doesn't seem to have drain screws so I'm thinking I'll have to remove and invert the fork tubes instead. Does that make sense, or am I just not seeing the screws?
Charliecan you drain and then refill using same hole while on the bike? I'm thinking of a syringe and squirting it in and then plugging back up.Mark[/quoteInteresting question, Mark. I imagine you may be able to if you rig up some kind of threaded nipple to screw into the little hole, then about a 10CC minimum syringe with tubing attached , after draining all the oil, use a clamp to block the hose while you reload your syringe for the next "injection " of oil. What Charlie advised is 100%. I used a full 10 oz of 50 wt "Harley" oil in each fork leg of my 73 eldo, and it helped the forks work better. When finished, you will have to be quick in reinstalling the bolt, to keep the oil from leaking out.. Of course ,its always better to take them all apart and clean them up, but in a pinch, just doing an oil change like that may get you by.Good luck,Rick.
Charliecan you drain and then refill using same hole while on the bike? I'm thinking of a syringe and squirting it in and then plugging back up.Mark
synthetic saline 30w skank oil.
Put in an ounce extra and make sure you have Wirth springs in there. I simply do not know why motorcycle manufacturers don't put drain plugs on their forks.
But, is it really so difficult to lift up the dash, take the top plugs out and pour the oil in? I guess for a Loop with certain windshield brackets it could be.
I have Wirth springs in my V700 and while it doesn't bottom out as badly as my Ambo with (50 year old) stock springs, it also doesn't ride as well. I may try a set of new stock type springs and see if I like them better.
When I overhauled the forks on my 70 ambo I used synthetic trany fluid in them. The guts on them are pretty basic so if they are stiff somethings wrong. My old ambo is the smoothest riding bike I own. I also have IKON shocks on the back. I can ride the old beast all day with no problem'
Hello.Need some advice, i shall change the fork oil on my V7 Special -1971.-Do i need to remove the front wheel, fender etc? Or it is enough to drain the oil and then refill?-Any other oil that can be used except 30W fork oil?Regards,Fredrik
FWIW...I just replaced the fork seals on my '72 Eldo. I re-installed the forks with new springs ($58/pr.) and added 7oz. of Belray 30w to each leg.So, I haven't rode the bike yet but the springs are definitely better than what I had, no front end dive when taking it off the side stand. I only put 7oz in each leg because I've read where you guys (having way more experience with this) claim 5.4 was insufficient and I can always add more. I poured the fork oil into the forks using a funnel and after I installed them. In the past, I have always added fork oil and then pump them to bleed out air, toss in the spring, screw on cap and re-install into the bike. This time I completely forgot to first add oil and pump air before installing legs back into bike so I hope it doesn't make too much difference.
So i can more or less use ordinary mineral SAE30 engine oil? "Lawnmover oil"?