Author Topic: Chain question (NGC,obviously )  (Read 4512 times)

Offline rocker59

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Re: Chain question (NGC,obviously )
« Reply #30 on: January 04, 2019, 08:43:03 AM »
let's overthink this now.

It's the Guzzi way!  LOL!

 
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Re: Chain question (NGC,obviously )
« Reply #31 on: January 04, 2019, 09:30:25 AM »
Some additional thoughts.


If you are going to get new sprockets and chain make sure they are a matched set meaning that they are of like strength ratings.  A drag race chain with an aluminum sprocket set will mean quickly worn sprockets.
 

 Why will a drag race chain wear an aluminum sprocket faster? I have a DID drag race #530 on my Triumph land racer. wear is not a problem of course , the drag chain is lighter, maybe better steel, but I'm not seeing in my mind the additional wear factor other than aluminum sprockets wear faster than hardened steel no matter hat type steel chain..

Offline mojohand

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Re: Chain question (NGC,obviously )
« Reply #32 on: January 04, 2019, 09:40:30 AM »
My KTM 1290 super Adventure S manual says to check it with the bike on the center stand.

- Shift to neutral
- In the area in front of the chain guide, push the chain up and determine chain tension (the upper part of the chain must be taut. Chain wear is not always even, so you should repeat this measurement at different chain positions).
- Chain tension: 40-45mm (1.57-1.77in).
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Previous: 2000 Jackal, 04 Breva 750, 06 Breva 1100, 07 Norge, 09 Griso, 12 Norge, 14 FJR, 14 Striple, 16 SpeedTriple, 18 KTM Super Adventure S

Offline LowRyter

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Re: Chain question (NGC,obviously )
« Reply #33 on: January 04, 2019, 09:46:24 AM »
the front sprocket should be the same as Yamaha in all likelihood.

you'd think it would be like buying a wheel, get the bolt circle right and find a match.  The advantage with sprockets is that it's easy to change the gearing. 
John L 
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Re: Chain question (NGC,obviously )
« Reply #33 on: January 04, 2019, 09:46:24 AM »

Offline LowRyter

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Re: Chain question (NGC,obviously )
« Reply #34 on: January 04, 2019, 09:49:54 AM »
Some additional thoughts.

Don't forget to check chain alignment.  I like the Motion Pro Chain Alignment tool.
Don't forget to measure the stretch in the chain at several locations.

If you are going to get new sprockets and chain make sure they are a matched set meaning that they are of like strength ratings.  A drag race chain with an aluminum sprocket set will mean quickly worn sprockets.

All of the above is one of the main reasons I am now on a Moto Guzzi V7.

I've always relied on the marks on the swingarm.  Never gone to the trouble to check alignment with strings or alignment tool and never had a problem.  But I did say that all chains develop a tight spot- DOH!   :undecided:
John L 
When life gets you down remember it's one down and the rest are up.  (1-N-23456)

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Re: Chain question (NGC,obviously )
« Reply #35 on: January 04, 2019, 10:18:49 AM »
 If accessible, the rear axle should be measured off the swing arm pivot axle on both sides to make sure the factory marks are accurate..And if you have an older bike ,you may want to check that the center of the front wheel is directly below the steering stem and the center of the rear wheel is inline with the center of front wheel.And both wheels are actually dead plump to each other and the frame..And...The rear sprocket lines up with the transmission drive sprocket..It's not uncommon for this stuff to be out of alignment.. And because it's a shaft drive there's no guarantee it's any better....

Offline twowheeladdict

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Re: Chain question (NGC,obviously )
« Reply #36 on: January 04, 2019, 01:10:03 PM »
Why will a drag race chain wear an aluminum sprocket faster? I have a DID drag race #530 on my Triumph land racer. wear is not a problem of course , the drag chain is lighter, maybe better steel, but I'm not seeing in my mind the additional wear factor other than aluminum sprockets wear faster than hardened steel no matter hat type steel chain..

It was a general example without going into tensile strengths, malleability, etc. etc. 

Chain and sprockets should be matched for intended use.
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Offline LowRyter

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Re: Chain question (NGC,obviously )
« Reply #37 on: January 04, 2019, 02:45:20 PM »
I recommend EK "O" ring chains.  EK appears to be the most durable. 

They look cool in gold.
John L 
When life gets you down remember it's one down and the rest are up.  (1-N-23456)

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Re: Chain question (NGC,obviously )
« Reply #38 on: January 04, 2019, 03:27:19 PM »
 I like chain drive....Hillbilly engineering on this vintage Triumph engine land speed racer I built...Four chains total...

   

  And building my own off set sprockets...Spins true and has been near 150MPH on the track...

   

Offline pyoungbl

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Re: Chain question (NGC,obviously )
« Reply #39 on: January 04, 2019, 03:49:56 PM »
If accessible, the rear axle should be measured off the swing arm pivot axle on both sides to make sure the factory marks are accurate.
Yep.  Anal intent matched with too much time on my hands...I put both swingarm axle and rear axle in the lathe and created a center mark on each end:


Then made a simple gauge out of some scrap aluminum and old political campaign sign wire:


This way I do not rely on the hash marks on the swingarm, it's actually faster for me to get the chain adjusted and axle parallel now.

Growing old ain't for sissies.

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Re: Chain question (NGC,obviously )
« Reply #40 on: January 04, 2019, 04:02:39 PM »
Very clever..
Never thought of that  :thumb: :bow:

Offline Chuck in Indiana

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Re: Chain question (NGC,obviously )
« Reply #41 on: January 04, 2019, 09:30:47 PM »
That's certainly a better use than a political campaign sign.  :smiley: There is nothing new though,  a machinists Trammell bar is essentially the same, although more rigid.
Chuck in (Elwood) Indiana/sometimes SoCal
 
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Offline lucian

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Re: Chain question (NGC,obviously )
« Reply #42 on: January 05, 2019, 05:19:22 PM »
Hows the gearing on the MZ Chuck?  Are you going to try a change in sprocket ratios?  Just curios, I found changing to a 16 front on my Tuono made it a lot more street friendly.

Offline twowheeladdict

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Re: Chain question (NGC,obviously )
« Reply #43 on: January 05, 2019, 05:39:04 PM »
Yep.  Anal intent matched with too much time on my hands...I put both swingarm axle and rear axle in the lathe and created a center mark on each end:


Then made a simple gauge out of some scrap aluminum and old political campaign sign wire:


This way I do not rely on the hash marks on the swingarm, it's actually faster for me to get the chain adjusted and axle parallel now.

Now as long as the engine is mounted so the front sprocket shaft is parallel you're in great shape.  According to forums I have been on the engine is sometimes out of line.
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Re: Chain question (NGC,obviously )
« Reply #44 on: January 05, 2019, 06:37:46 PM »
Now as long as the engine is mounted so the front sprocket shaft is parallel you're in great shape.  According to forums I have been on the engine is sometimes out of line.

  Are you saying the engine is mounted out of alignment on purpose?

Offline Chuck in Indiana

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Re: Chain question (NGC,obviously )
« Reply #45 on: January 05, 2019, 08:33:41 PM »
Hows the gearing on the MZ Chuck?  Are you going to try a change in sprocket ratios?  Just curios, I found changing to a 16 front on my Tuono made it a lot more street friendly.
It's kind of strange. First is what we used to call a granny on a farm truck.  :smiley: Good for 20 mph. (!) Helpful when sitting between cars waiting for the light to change, though..
Chuck in (Elwood) Indiana/sometimes SoCal
 
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Offline twowheeladdict

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Re: Chain question (NGC,obviously )
« Reply #46 on: January 06, 2019, 07:42:14 PM »
  Are you saying the engine is mounted out of alignment on purpose?

Doubtful, but the owners had to align it themselves.  Let's just say accumulation of tolerances, instead of some tolerances cancelling others out. 
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Re: Chain question (NGC,obviously )
« Reply #47 on: January 07, 2019, 05:25:03 AM »
Doubtful, but the owners had to align it themselves.  Let's just say accumulation of tolerances, instead of some tolerances cancelling others out.

 Yes, the tolerances stack up wrong...Just because a bike is shaft drive doesn't mean the rear wheel is in alignment... :wink:

 

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