98 EV relays and fuse

[steven c]

 I'm trying to figure why I have no spark on the new to me 98 EV. There is the bank of fuses and relays on the right side but going schematic really doesn't show which is which is and they have no markings. Is there a diagram some where showing what fuse and relay is what? Thanks.

[Kiwi_Roy]

Steven,
           I have a drawing that shows the fuses and relays but for some reason the image site is down at the moment,
I will send you a pm so I can get your e-mail.

BTW the first thing you should notice is the fuel pump priming for about 3 seconds each time you turn the key on or cycle the Run switch.

Roy

[JoeB]

Check this thread out found with quick search:
 https://wildguzzi.com/forum/index.php?topic=97706.0
Did you happen to look underneath the side cover?
On mine there was a diagram.

[pehayes]

Ah, the classic mid-production changes strike again.
On Greg Bender's website  you will need TWO wire diagrams.  The 98 EV seems to use half of the 96-1100i for part of its wire plan and then a reported 98EV for the other half of the plan.  I have two 98EV so I've been through all of this.

See here:  http://www.thisoldtractor.com/guzzi007/sportissimo.html

Try to match parts of each diagram with your particular machine.

Meanwhile, I have a printed copy of this lodged under the seat of each bike.

1998 V11EV WIRING CIRCUIT PLAN
VIEWED FROM THE RIGHT SIDE
REAR TOWARD FRONT

RELAY #1   Starter
RELAY #2   Horn
RELAY #3   Side Stand Safety
RELAY #4   Headlight
FUSE #1   Fuel Petcock
FUSE #2   Turn Signal Flasher – Parking Light – Instrument lights
FUSE #3   Brake Light (foot) – Horn – Starter Solenoid
FUSE #4   Brake Light (hand) – Headlights – Charging – Tachometer – Idiot Lights
RELAY #5   Fuel Injectors – Computer – Relay #6
FUSE #5   Fuel Pump Relay – Fuel Injectors - Computer
FUSE #6   Fuel Pump - Coils
RELAY #6   Fuel Pump – Coils

Patrick Hayes
Fremont CA

[steven c]

Thanks that should help.

[fotoguzzi]

The crank sensor under the right throttle body in bell housing may be covered with swarf.. pull out and wipe off then try starting.

[pehayes]

BTW, I have twice had a no-spark failure related to the timing sensor in the top, left of the timing chest, just forward of the oil pressure switch.  Both times it was NOT the sensor but the gang Molex connector block about 18" upstream  from the sensor.  Cleaned and reseated.

BTW #2.  Do you know where the trouble indicator LED light is located and how to utilize it.  Not all failures will report through this light.  But some will.  And the forward timing sensor is one of the latter.

Let me know if you need advice on the trouble LED.

Patrick Hayes
Fremont CA

[Kiwi_Roy]

I'm still waiting to see if the pump will prime, it's been laid up for several years.
I told Steven to look for power on every fuse and on every relay 30 with the key On
You can run the pump by poking a wire into 30 & 87 of relay 6, it won't run very well because the petcock is closed but well enough to make sure it's not gummed up.
It must go through the 3 second prime each time the key or Run Switch is cycled.
Actually first thing might be to check the petcock's opening then you can leave it running for several minutes.

I hope we don't have another pump gummed up.



The EVs are coming out of the woodwork for summer.

[Vagrant]

With an EV there is no sense in using band aids. Just play Dr and be done with it. Pull the battery load check it then clean the connections including the ground and positive on both ends. Then both sensors and don't loose the sensors washers on the timing case. Next just replace every fuse and relay with new making sure to blast Deoxit into the contacts and ignition switch. Truth is every connector should be done. You're now done with electrical problems for 3 years.

[steven c]

 The pump is off the bike, I have carb cleaner in the hoses hoping to clear it up. I jumped the 30 to 87 and there is power to the pump wires. Time to take 5, electrical is not one of my strong suits.

[fotoguzzi]

How did this go from a no spark condition to the fuel pump is out?

[Kiwi_Roy]

How did this go from a no spark condition to the fuel pump is out?

Hey, i'm not surprised Guzzi owners are hard to focus LOL

Steven,
            Stand it on end with the discharge end down then dribble carb cleaner in the inlet, you should be able to fill the motor.
Leave it for a while then see if it will spin with 12 Volts on it, if you get a good fat spark it's trying to turn, try reversing the wires
You could also give it a few raps to try and jar it loose.
Bear in mind I have never had to do this but try anything to jar it loose, if you get it to start turning it should free up and flush out.
worst case you can get a good replacement for about $50

My Bro KiwiKev got the Bosch on my flying brick free

[LowRyter]

1.  Check the the fuse holders.  They might not be making contact.  Clean them and reseat the fuses. 

2.  check the ignitor modules under the side covers.  I had one that didn't make contact and the one cylinder would stop for no reason.   Reseated, dielectric grease  and no problems in 10 years. 

3. replace the relays with good ones.

4. make sure the kick stand kill switch, the neutral kill switch and electric petcock are working. 

Yes I included fuel as well as spark.

[steven c]

 Okay thanks, this will keep me busy for a while. Bike was running fine till Ron broke it down to replace the bearings in the gearbox.

[s1120]

Okay thanks, this will keep me busy for a while. Bike was running fine till Ron broke it down to replace the bearings in the gearbox.

maybe check all your grounds, and any wires and sensors that were disconnected at that time.

[steven c]

Here is the latest, power to all fuses. pulled the two relays that control the coil and fuel pump and the one for ignition and ECU using a jumper wire between the 80 and 35, the two larger connectors I have power to the circuits, with the relays in there is no power going to them,bought a couple of new relays put them in still no power. Cleaned the grounds, connectors, bad ECU? Its the big one, P8?

[steven c]

 With Eric E on the phone he had me check if power was getting to the coil,pump relay, from the ECU relay, brown bridge wire between the two and there is no power going there. So something is broken,getting closer.

[Kiwi_Roy]

Steven, reading through the thread it's hard to figure out where you are at, did you ever get the pump to prime for 3 seconds?
It's common for the pump to gum up after extended down time, its very good you now have that free, something others seem to have difficulty doing.
As Eric says the ECU relay feeds 12 Volts to the pump relay coil but it doesn't turn it On, that's done by the ECU grounding out the other side of it's coil.

Every time the ECU turns On it starts a short timer, this grounds out the other side of the pump coil. (causes pump to prime)
I suggest you try that a few times until you get familiar with the pump priming.
So by now you should be familiar with the Side Stand relay and how it powers up the ECU relay
 

[Kiwi_Roy]

With Eric E on the phone he had me check if power was getting to the coil,pump relay, from the ECU relay, brown bridge wire between the two and there is no power going there. So something is broken,getting closer.

I'm sorry if I caused a bit of confusion Eric is right the ECU relay feeds power to the Pump relay but it doesn't control it the ECU does that by holding the other end of the coil to chassis (ground)