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I've compared the wiring diagrams for the 13-15 bikes with my 2016. They're identical in regard to the R/R.By the way, I checked my voltage when I got home from work today. At idle, 13.7v (great). At 3K RPM, 14.7v (not so great). I would not replace an earlier R/R with this one.
That might vary somewhat with environment (desert or frozen tundra being worse than more moderate zones), usage, and uh... brand of cycle. (Solidmount Harleys were HELL on their batteries).
The other site is the Guzzi Tech Forum where they have an excellent description of the reasons for concern with over voltage charging from a person who sounds knowledgeable and reasonable and experienced. Anyway, it is easy to check when you have the chance and it appears to be at least a fairly common concern, I won't say a problem because perhaps some V7s are rugged enough to handle 15+ volts charging output without issues, though perhaps some accessories like electric gloves won't accept the higher voltage.
Gee Kev; who pissed in your corn flakes?
So, the problem wasn't voltage over charging, but, the batteries were being shaken to death.
The ideal charging system voltage should be between 13.8 and 14.5 volts at normal cruise RPM. It is OK for the voltage to dip below 13.8 volts at idle, as charging will catch up when back under way.12 Volt lead acid batteries need at least 13.8 Volts to start charging.14.5 Volts is the safe upper limit.Above 14.5 Volts, the batteries will start to off gas acidic vapors. Above 14.7 Volts they can start to boil and dry out.
It's a very useful and informative site. But, bear in mind that the site is part of a commercial enterprise and the owner makes money by selling replacement parts and accessories. So, his viewpoint can be biased. No offense intended.
I don't have a dog in this fight, but 14.7 volts is typical charging voltage for modern batteries.15 volts is not really that much above standard, Once you start getting much above 15 volts I could see it being a problem. Clearly 16 volts and above is flat out wrong. The one small block I own does not have that issue, it is an older small block and struggles to meet acceptable charge voltage. I am happy when it hits mid 14's.
Voltage on battery poles with engine speed always between 3000 - 5000 RPM· Start the engine, after about one minute of operating bring the speed to 3000-5000 RPM,then measure with a tester the voltage at the battery poles that must always be between13V and 15V.
Voltage measurements of the battery when the engine is running are the output of your alternator. This measurement should be about 13.3-15.0 volts, which may differ due to temperature. At average operating temperatures of 50° to 80°F, your alternator output voltage should be about 14 volts to 14.8 volts.
For regular charging we recommend a maximum of 10-amps, 13.8-15.0 volts. For float charging, we recommend 1 amp maximum, 13.2-13.8 volts.
I went to Yuasa's website and they specifically listed a range of 13v - 14.5v for charging. Some of these batteries are obviously taking a lot of abuse and are still working. Or ticking. Who knows what will happen or when.
When considering upgrading to an AGM battery that was not original equipment on a vehicle, check to make sure the charging system has a regulated output between 14.0 and 14.8 volts.
If you want to measure ripple, switch the voltmeter to AC Volts range and measure across the terminals. It's probably a very small voltage because the battery acts as a ballast, absorbing any ripple.
considering voltage output from the r/r - This is how I think it works, I say think,There are two positive wires from the r/r I think one is a high current wire and the other is low current. both wires are connected together but the low current wire can be routed through an ignition switch. I believe the low current wire is used to measure current/voltage and is protected by a high resistance. If there is low current draw the high current wire may exceed the voltage of the low current wire causing current to flow in reverse up that wire this causes the Regulator to dump charge into the heat sink raising the current draw which lowers the voltage on the high current wire, the high current wires voltage is stabilised in this way around the voltage of the low current wire.
So basically the low current wire through the ignition switch is the battery sensing circuit? Is that correct?If so, I wonder if low voltage on the low current wire due to ignition switch resistance, leads to high charging on high current wire?
Here's a question. Does the circuitry in this regulator not adjust to system load and battery charge need? I.E. if the battery is discharged it's going to regulate the charge rate on the higher side until the battery is properly charged AND/OR load drops meaning it can shunt more power to ground and lower the charge rate more toward 13 volts.
The R/R has four output wires -- two for ground and two for positive -- because of limitations on the PCB for the copper traces to handle the maximum current of the device. If all the current drawn through the MOSFET was delivered through one connector joined to one trace, the PCB trace would not have the cross-sectional area needed to deliver that current without burning up. So the manufacturer provides two connection points and doubles the volume of PCB copper through which the current can be delivered. This goes equally for the ground wires because the same current delivered has to return back to the R/R through the ground.
... If the battery, lights and other electics do not draw all the current provided by the alternator input it dumps the excess charge into the heat sink to prevent the output voltage rising during low current draw?
An analogy that might help some is that the battery stores amps, not volts. A battery at 12.7 volts doesn't mean it can start your bike, why you can check the battery for voltage and yet get slow turn and click click click.
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