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does anyone have a link to order the actual replacement VR? I see lots of links for batteries, electrical theory, etc. but no link for the fix., that would be very helpful. I haven't checked mine yet, but based on poll numbers I'm guessing I'll be doing that soon.Grazie.Andy
Thanks Kev, yeah I was aware Todd was looking into a plug n play, which would be great....but if that doesn't come to fruition, I'm fine with doing a little crimping and soldering. Anyone have a part no. or link for the Mossfet? Also looks like an adapter plate is required just some aluminum stock cut to size?
OK, sounds like you have it all figured out for everyone. So I'll bow out of this project now. Far too many irons in the fire.
Word is our V7's (I haven't checked this yet) have only 2 output wires. Meaning we would then just connect to any 2 of the R/R input yellow wires/terminals leaving the 3rd unused. Or if there's a pigtail I think some have suggested we splice 2 of the 3 input wires together.
Connect the two wires to any of the three available R/R inputs. Don't use a pigtail. The alternator input goes through the rectifier and it's phasing is not critical.There was someone who posted to GT saying that the new V7II for 2015 has 7 wires into the VR, not 6 as previous. They mentioned "white plug has 3 big yellow ones not 2. .... the black has 2 red with white stripe and 2 solid green". If this is correct, then the newer alternator is 3-phase Delta, not single-phase.
Good question. I don't think myself qualified to give the definitive answer, but given the differences in the number of wires on the R/R units, I'd say they are not interchangeable.
Bought mine from this seller (there are many others if you search): lU0g" class="bbc_link" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">http://www.ebay.com/itm/YAMAHA-SHINDENGEN-FH020AA-REGULATOR-W-CONNECTORS-REPLACES-FH012AA-/380705241034?hash=item58a3ccf7ca:m:mkhmKfGHbRfG_5CQV4N lU0gFor $120 shipped, it comes with everything you need. I already had some AL sheet laying around, so cutting was no big deal (made a template from cardboard first to get shape down). No need for any circuit breakers, the VR output goes to your fusebox already.
Wiring is extremely easy. There are two connectors, one is a 3-pin, other 2-pinThe 2-pin connector is the Battery positive & groundThe 3-pin connector goes to your stator (yellow wires)Note: my 2013 has a 2-phase stator, hence has 2 yellow wires. Most bikes (suspect the newer V7s) have the usual 3-phase stator. If you have a 2-phase unit, connect the 2 yellow wires to any of the 3 pins. If you have 3-yellow wires stock, you have a 3-phase unit and will connect each yellow wire to each pin on the regulator (order doesn't matter).
I bought mine here http://www.roadstercycle.com/ I bought the Super Mosfit kit with circuit breaker.
But don't the alternates that are being used such as the Mosfet/SHINDENGEN FH020AA have the same wiring? I.E. they're set-up for 3-wire stator output connections (3-phase stators)?
Apologies Kev. I thought you were asking about whether the OEM R/R for the V7 would be interchangeable with the OEM R/R for the V7II. I didn't get that you were asking about OEM versus aftermarket.
Thanks for posting.Any details on which kit and how you installed?
OK, so cold start this afternoon gave me 15.4 Volts from 1-4k rpm.I figured I've had it for years and it's probably always done this, so I took it for a ride (to drain the fuel a bit, I figure it's probably easier to pull the tank to do this anyway, and I might as well replace that fuel filter now if that's the case).When I got back it was reading 12.8 volts at idle, but still 15.4 anywhere above that. I need a voltage regulator, and I'm starting to believe I won't be alone.Jay and Cam are gonna test there's this week, but our assumption is that we'll be order 4 voltage regulators by next week.Zinfan - THANKS FOR ALL THAT. One last follow-up question. Did that require a mounting plate? If so did you buy that universal plate from him or fabricate one yourself?NP - I understand your point, but practically speaking I suspect the parasitic loads are comparable differnt only by RCHs between all 3 of the bikes in the fleet. There's little doubt in my mind the battery was damaged over time with too high a charge rate.
No way to get any pictures of the R/R install, just too much in the way.Here is my bike fresh off the battery tenderAt idleAt 4000 rpmSo at least the mosfet R/R remains working well. I do think I'll replace the battery before I go for an extended trip later this year as I ran it flat once when I forgot to put the tender on it and didn't ride for awhile.
When you replace that battery and install a fresh VR, what an opportunity to document and check performance over time. Beware of the surface charge. As you can see a few posts above... <snip>
Well, I'm not planning on replacing the battery at this time. I suspect it's lost some lifespan, but it certainly doesn't seem dead.And though I appreciate the well-meaning pointers, you don't know what I do for a living do you? (no big deal, it's just funny).
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