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What's the difference between an auto reset circuit breaker and a maxifuse?They are both fuses that protect the main positive wire going from the new MOSFET setup to the battery. The circuit breaker is smaller and more compact. They have been used for years in cars and Harley Davidson motorcycles. It will auto reset if it gets tripped. The maxifuse is a bigger fuse that also protects the main positive wire going to the battery from the new MOSFET setup. If it blows you will need an extra with you to replace it. Usually these fuses protect us from ourselves if we are working on our bikes and accidentally touch this wire to ground it will blow the fuse or open the circuit breaker. Very rarely does a bad R/R actually blow a fuse they usually just open and go bad. I've seen them completely burnt up and never blow a fuse.
By the way Kev, what DO you do for a living? I recently retired from the corrugated box industry as a maintenance tech. Jack of all trades but master of none.
He plays with his kids and on the internet . Tough job , but someone has to do it , right Kev ? Dusty
I wonder if there's a reason for the circuit breaker though. Is it just an over-voltage circuit protector or something else?
Remember the aftermarket replacement R/R I put on the Jackal, something about the battery feed utilized a sensing circuit that remained on and drained the battery.
I guess it's not to prevent something like that or it would be called something else. But still, makes me wonder.I assume those that bought from the eBay seller didn't wire in a circuit breaker so you're probably right that it's not necessary.On the Record fairing, at least you'll be able to adjust wire lengths if you have to reposition the regulator much.I do still wonder on the V7 II OEM regulator wouldn't work better.
Thanks Kev. OK, here's my point. The original R/R, at least on my bike, senses voltage through the headlight circuit. But, on my bike, when the headlight is on it causes a voltage drop of 2V. The R/R reacts and sends 15+ volts back to the battery. Zinfed states the Mosfit R/R is wired direct to the battery. That's why it doesn't over charge. Wire the original R/R direct to the battery and it will probably perform the same as a Mosfit. As I've mentioned before, I think the wiring from the headlight relay, through the harness, to the bulb is too small to carry the load causing a voltage drop and fooling the R/R that the battery needs help. Now, I know this is the case on my bike but I remind you, The V7 might be different. But how hard is it to check?
Series regulation instead of shunt? That just sounds better. Any source for the 847?I have a 2016 V7 II with the new regulator. About 13.6v at idle and 14.7 at 3K. If I'm going to the trouble of replacing the RR, I wouldn't use one. There are certainly better out there. Are the plugs the same? Dunno. Can't see 'em.
Regarding that kit with a circuit breaker, I don't see the need to add any more circuit protection, as the bike should already have the required circuit protections, no?
Zin, I'm under the impression others have wired the Mosfit into the OEM wiring. I guess we should sort that question out next, I.E. which is better and why.
I remember at the time I bought my kit the owner of the site saying that his harness wiring was superior to most OEM harnesses and highly recommended using his to go directly to the battery. I see he does have some "Crimp and Go" kits that you just cut off the OEM harness connectors and add his in. It seemed to be worthwhile to go for the direct route using his wires for the best chance of success for me.
If you use the kit wiring you get a circuit braker and avoid cutting OEM harness. I'd do that, make it easier to remove at a later date if you want to swap your bike and want to keep your after market r/rIf you do that tape up the oem connector so it wont get dirt in it.
This is what I did. Of course if Kev M decides to splice into the existing harness the results could be used to answer Guzzidad's thoughts that it might be the harness and not the R/R causing the overcharging issue.
Not related to the R/R but would it show me anything if I turned up my heated grips, plugged in the heated jacket set to high and put the headlight on high beam and measured charging voltage? Just as a check of the bikes electrical capacity and if I'm exceeding it?
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