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BTW, I found a schematic online today that supposedly is for the Ducati Engergia Regulator Guzzi Part # 32703810 which was used on the N7, B7, and V7C - part of the schematic reads:Voltage Regulator 15.5 +/- 0.5 VSomeone thinks 16V is acceptable?Gosh!
Just got back from a nice ride to my favorite brewery, 130 miles round trip, and measurements were close to yesterday's measurements, both before and after the ride. 14 and 15.1 at startup; 12.9 and 14.3 after the ride. I'm only using a cheapo Craftsman multimeter, but I checked it against a couple 9 volt batteries just to make sure it wasn't completely out of whack, and got readings close to 9V. Where's the "scratching my head" icon when you need it?
Once fully charged through saturation, the battery should not dwell at the topping voltage for more than 48 hours and must be reduced to the float voltage level. This is especially critical for sealed systems because they are less tolerant to overcharge than the flooded type. Charging beyond the specified limits turns redundant energy into heat and the battery begins to gas.The recommended float voltage of most flooded lead acid batteries is 2.25V to 2.27V/cell. Large stationary batteries at 25°C (77°F) typically float at 2.25V/cell. Manufacturers recommend lowering the float charge when the ambient temperature rises above 29°C (85°F).Not all chargers feature float charge and very few road vehicles have this provision. If your charger stays on topping charge and does not drop below 2.30V/cell, remove the charge after 48 hours of charging. Recharge every 6 months while in storage; AGM every 6–12 months.
Thanks for that test!Now I want to hear the electrical experts explain this. What's different? I winder if I'm going to find a problem in the wiring harness or if something else could effect the reading (a damaged battery?).This is what I wondered about when this problem was first identified.If I were you I'd consider it operating normally.Though I might be tempted to install a voltmeter (I'm already tempted to do that in mine because of this).Fwiw Jay, Cam, and my voltage regulators all shipped today.
So if someone charged their battery before testing then the results they got at startup would represent full time RR operation (that was my instinct and why I did that).That's why mine tested identically before and after the ride (at least with regards to at speed voltages).But if someone tested their bike only on a cold start with a battery that had been sitting for a while they might get a false positive result (that is something I was worried about with this whole situation and relative "panic").Though it still doesn't explain why some drop the voltage and others don't unless those that don't are just broken.
For anyone interested, I ordered extra material to make several more adapter plates.Because I'm lazy (or is that efficient), I ordered it pre-cut to 2x4 inches, so, all I have to do is drill, tap, and countersink holes, which I can do on my drill press at home.
I still have yet to test, I'm assuming I'm going to need to replace mine as well. I saw the Roadster cycle guy had adapter plates all drilled. tapped for about $19, since I don't have a drill press or tap and die, I'll probably go that route. If any of you guys would be kind enough to post a little "help" with photos for connections etc. I for one would really appreciate it.Grazie
If anyone here hasn't taken the tank off before it's REALLY easy (much more so than on my previous Big Blocks!1. Remove Allen screw at back of tank.2. Pull tank back off pucks to expose fuel pump wiring (front left of steering head). Unplug wiring. If you haven't already this is a good time to check the puck bolts to make sure they are tight. Better yet, back them out, put threadlock on them, then snug them up again.3. Start and run till it stalls or crank the motor a few seconds to lower fuel pressure.4. Lift rear of tank, follow the fuel hose from the upper midsection of the tank tunnel down to the frame rail. There's small square quick-connector with a button on two sides that you depress and hold while gently pulling up and back toward the tank. This should pull the connector off a spigot fitting right next to the frame rail.5. Still lifting the rear of the tank carefully pull the smaller plastic hose (I think that's the filler cap overflow hose) off the nipple toward the rear underside of the tunnel, 6. Lift front of tank and carefully pull vent hose (I think that's the tank vent to the EVAP system) off the nipple at the front underside in the tunnel.7. Remove the tank from the bike.
Woke the bike up from winter storage this morning. Measuring the voltage on the charging system for my 2011 V7 Racer, with the leads of my Fluke 70 multimeter across the battery terminals:Ignition off: 12.57VCranking: 10.95VAt 1200RPM idle: 13.35VAt 4000RPM and above: 14.42VBattery is the original Yuasa sealed lead acid that came with the bike. In fact, it survived a house fire that burnt the motorcycle, so it's had a hard start to its life but apparently still going strong.
I have an early 2TB and my R/R looks the same. I get about 15v.This is the one here:http://www.euromotoelectrics.com/mobile/Product.aspx?id=1337
Seems changing the plug was a good thing, heres another one had same issue as mine. changing the plug I no big deal although I think this auction is a bit cheeky expensive as the plug is damaged, I changed my plug.http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/172010153523?rmvSB=true&ul_ref=http%3A%2F%2Frover.ebay.com%2Frover%2F1%2F710-53481-19255-0%2F1%3Ficep_ff3%3D2%26pub%3D5575125332%26toolid%3D10001%26campid%3D5337806695%26customid%3D%26icep_item%3D172010153523%26ipn%3Dpsmain%26icep_vectorid%3D229508%26kwid%3D902099%26mtid%3D824%26kw%3Dlg%26srcrot%3D710-53481-19255-0%26rvr_id%3D996349200533&_mwBanner=1PS can you post a link to the 2012 part Kev?
So its like this.pre 2012 bikes have a regulated output of 15.1v (14.95-15.15) and a 350w alternator (dry).2012-2013 bikes may have a regulator with output around 15.45v - 15.5v still with the 350w dry alternator.Racers are less likely to have the high voltage output R/Raround 2014 all bikes change to a 270w wet alternator the regulator changes too and these bikes show around 14.4v regulated output.If you have an earlier bike 15.1v is a bit high and might shorten battery life but its not caused any problem.If you have a 2012/2013 bike you should check and its best to change it for piece of mind.
The current returning to the regulator through the ground connection is the same amount as delivered by the alternator to the load. Assuming the bike draws about 216W from the alternator, the R/R is also carrying the current which that power represents, 216W/12V = 18A. That current is delivered to the various paralleled loads on the vehicle (lights, ignition, battery, etc.) and once again combines through the frame and returns to the alternator from where it was generated. Your home-made 0.2 Ohm resistor in series with the ground lead has to dissipate (18)2 x 0.2 = 64 Watts. It would burn out like a fuse if it could only handle 5 Watts of power. If it blew quickly, the heat would not damage anything. I'd predict that it more likely would heat up like a light bulb and eventually scorch or start a fire as heat was transferred to nearby partsYour resistor will drop voltage proportional to the current draw of the motorcycle. If you want to experiment, use a high power rectifier diode with 50A - 80A forward current capability. A diode exhibits a constant 0.7V drop when used in a forward direction, independent of the current flowing through it. You'd still need to heat sink the diode to dissipate the power loss.
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