Cracked Fork Caps - How in over my head am I?

[heaubeau]

My (new to me) 1975 T3 has some pretty seriously cracked front form caps, seen here:



I found the replacements, but am relatively new to swinging a wrench (especially on a Guzzi). If I get the parts, how intensive will the replacement operation be (with the understanding that I have next to no idea what I'm doing)? I don't really have any resources (besides you guys) when it comes to this - are there any I'm missing? Should I seal up these caps temporarily until I can replace them?

Thank you!

[Lannis]

I'm no master mechanic, but I have taken apart the forks on my 1000SP, my Cal III, and the upside-down forks on my '09 Stelvio, and came out of the experience unscathed.

There's nothing trick about them, and nothing that will come springing out and flying across the shop into a quantum discontinuity and disappear forever.   

I'd get hold of a manual or an Internet set of directions, figure out what kind of tools you'll need, and go for it .....

Lannis

[Stevex]

Can you turn them round to hide the cracks? It's only a dust seal after all.
Otherwise you'll need to drop the forks to replace them.

[pressureangle]

First, if you ride 'clean', that is your bike rarely gets wet or dirty I'd just cut them off and forget them. Wipe down the tubes with silicone lubricant whenever you see dust or dirt.

Otherwise, it's very simple and straightforward to change them, but it's not fast. You just need to take out the wheel, loosen everything attached to the tubes and slide them out the bottom of the fork trees.

That sounds easy, but you have to block the bike up high enough to get them out; if they don't slide out easily, you have to wedge open the trees a little bit; you have to reassemble everything carefully to be sure you don't bash your tank or leave anything loose. The less you have on the bike, the easier. On my LeMans IV I have to wedge the trees, and the fairing mount and handlebars both go on the fork tube between the trees. A bit of a pain to get back together.

[Vasco DG]

Unless you know when the forks were last rebuilt and with what the chances are that the dampers will be buggered and the dust seals will be the least of your problems. I also see forty year old rubber brake lines. I'd recommend doing something about them too........

Pete

[pressureangle]

Unless you know when the forks were last rebuilt and with what the chances are that the dampers will be buggered and the dust seals will be the least of your problems. I also see forty year old rubber brake lines. I'd recommend doing something about them too........

Pete

That's why I thought just cut them off...if they work ok.

Pete's right, of course; for safety's sake the brake lines should go no matter what else.

[slopokes]

 :+=copcar they make wrap around dust seals that any good dirt bike shop should carry---of course I can't remember the name.i used them on one of the jap bikes I had. :BEER:

[John A]

If it were me I would take the time to yard the front end off it and do a complete service to include the steering head bearings. Read over it first and take pictures as you go, it's surprising how I think I'll remember how a thing was only to realize my memory ain't what it once was. If you screw it up, whatever it takes to correct it is the price of knowledge . Ask us questions.I like to trust my motorcycle, especially when I push hard on it.

[Sasquatch Jim]

  The whole bike is shot.  Send it to me and I will take care of disposal.

[fotoguzzi]

What's your location? someone might offer to help..

[heaubeau]

Unless you know when the forks were last rebuilt and with what the chances are that the dampers will be buggered and the dust seals will be the least of your problems. I also see forty year old rubber brake lines. I'd recommend doing something about them too........

Pete

The brake lines are definitely on my short list to replace. They are old and I can feel it - especially in the front brake. I need to do an overhaul of the whole front end and I'm sure that the forks need a full service, so I will probably just incorporate this repair into that project.

Thank you everybody for all the fantastic knowledge and info!

[heaubeau]

What's your location? someone might offer to help..

I'm just north of Seattle. If there's anyone in this area that wants to get together, I'd love to start meeting Guzzi folks out here!

[jrt]

The front forks are so simple on these bikes!  Earlier advice is good- Here is some more without much detail:  Get everything out of the way (wheel/brakes/fender).  Make notes or pictures of which spacers go where.  While the wheel is out, check the wheel bearings. 
You can insert a bolt backwards in the lower triple tree, pushing against a washer or plate, to expand it- this is better than using a wedge.  The forks will drop out with some help.
Put the forks, wrapped in rubber or something soft and grippy, in a vice to loosen the caps.  Careful not to pour old nasty fork oil on your floor (I use a kitty litterbox) 
Replace the cartridge dampers with FAC dampers if you have the bucks.  I would also replace the seals and replace the fork wipers with accordions.

[heaubeau]

The front forks are so simple on these bikes!  Earlier advice is good- Here is some more without much detail:  Get everything out of the way (wheel/brakes/fender).  Make notes or pictures of which spacers go where.  While the wheel is out, check the wheel bearings. 
You can insert a bolt backwards in the lower triple tree, pushing against a washer or plate, to expand it- this is better than using a wedge.  The forks will drop out with some help.
Put the forks, wrapped in rubber or something soft and grippy, in a vice to loosen the caps.  Careful not to pour old nasty fork oil on your floor (I use a kitty litterbox) 
Replace the cartridge dampers with FAC dampers if you have the bucks.  I would also replace the seals and replace the fork wipers with accordions.

This really helpful - thank you! I'm working up the courage to jump in and get it done. This gets me a lot of the way there.

Thank you!

[SED]

You can insert a bolt backwards in the lower triple tree, pushing against a washer or plate, to expand it- this is better than using a wedge. 

Oh man - that is a great idea! and I used a wedge and now feel foolish for not thinking of the backwards bolt!  This is why I love these technical threads - so much to learn.   ;-T

Thanks JRT!

[ItsForrest]

When you go to open the forks, loosen the fork cap before you loosen the clamps and remove the fork legs from the bike. After you have removed the forks from the bike, the smooth fork legs are hard to hold without damaging the chrome. This is especially true if the caps have not been off for many years and are rather tight.

I like the trick of putting the screws in from the back side to spread the clamps. I use a penny for the screw to push against.

[HDGoose]

RTFM to decide if you want to do the work yourself.

[Chuck in Indiana]

Earl's will make up brake lines for you for around 20 bux each. Just send them your old ones. Plastic coated stainless, nice. The usual disclaimers.
http://www.earlsindy.com/home/pages/?page_id=2

[heaubeau]

Wow! Thanks for all the help everybody!

[earemike]

I read somewhere that the replacement part is a little big and does squat to protect the internals from exposure to grit. Is this accurate?

[Stevex]

I read somewhere that the replacement part is a little big and does squat to protect the internals from exposure to grit. Is this accurate?

Funny you should say that...
I bought two new dust seals from a well known UK Guzzi spares dealer. When I received them I thought, hmm these seem a little soft.
They were not a good fit and as soon as the forks started to compress, they rolled up the stanchion rather than slide over it.
I had a look over the internet and discovered there are two types of dust seal available; the utterly useless ones I bought or the ones that do the job properly.
The differences are that the good ones are made from firmer plastic and have a definite internal chamfered lip at the top (which prevents the seal from rolling); the useless ones have no lip, are quite flimsy and are a poor fit.
I ordered the good set from HMB in Germany and they are advertised as original, for about 8-9 Euro; they also sell non original for only a couple of Euros less. I've also seen a pair that are advertised as Made in Italy for about £28!

[Tobit]

Just my two cents; If you're going to the trouble of replacing the boot, wiper, dust seal, etc, just ditch them altogether and put on a set of gaiters instead.  Helps keep the tubes from getting nicked by rocks, gravel, sand and add that nice European look.

http://tinyurl.com/odutjdm

Tobit

[heaubeau]

Just my two cents; If you're going to the trouble of replacing the boot, wiper, dust seal, etc, just ditch them altogether and put on a set of gaiters instead.  Helps keep the tubes from getting nicked by rocks, gravel, sand and add that nice European look.

I've always really liked the look of gaiters (less on humans than on motorcycles), so I think I might take you up on this idea. Thanks for the link!

[rodekyll]

Just my two cents; If you're going to the trouble of replacing the boot, wiper, dust seal, etc, just ditch them altogether and put on a set of gaiters instead.  Helps keep the tubes from getting nicked by rocks, gravel, sand and add that nice European look.

http://tinyurl.com/odutjdm

Tobit

I was waiting for someone to bring that up.  I use gaiters.  They really help protect the tubes.  They also give the bike a more business-like look.