Wildguzzi.com
General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: agdrache on May 15, 2022, 05:42:36 PM
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I recently put a new handlebar on my bike because of ergonomic issues with the factory handlebar. I chose one that gave me more sweep angle, but I didn't realize until after finding the angle that my hands liked and putting things back together that the actual bend of the bar makes it so that the clutch lever sensor cable's connector gets in the way. As I understand it, if I were to just disconnect this cable, I wouldn't be able to re-start the bike in gear if I were to stall at an intersection, so I'm wondering if there's any reasonable way to work around this? Is there a lower-profile connector that can be used? Is there some other workaround? What about just shorting the connection so that the clutch appears to the ECU to always be pulled...or will that break something else?
It's only a few degrees of rotation away from where I want it to be, but I'd really like to be able to get this set up comfortably without having to go through the effort of a whole handlebar swap again.
EDIT 5/30/22: My first idea doesn't work. See details: https://wildguzzi.com/forum/index.php?topic=115102.msg1820050#msg1820050
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I would assume it's and easily bypassed circuit. Just take a look at the wiring diagram, but as a guess I'd say it's probably shorting the two wires to achieve the switch always on position.
Actually you can also check at the switch itself. Are the contacts closed when the lever is being held? Then yes, short the two wires and you're done. Just don't hit the starter button in gear after that unless the clutch lever is held ...
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I would assume it's and easily bypassed circuit. Just take a look at the wiring diagram, but as a guess I'd say it's probably shorting the two wires to achieve the switch always on position.
Actually you can also check at the switch itself. Are the contacts closed when the lever is being held? Then yes, short the two wires and you're done. Just don't hit the starter button in gear after that unless the clutch lever is held ...
As I understand it, the circuit is closed when the lever is pulled. If that's the case, shorting it would give the ECU the message that the lever is always pulled....I'm just worried that it would make something else work incorrectly. It seems like a quick & easy reversible way to do this would be to make a little pigtail that plugs into where the cable normally goes (under the tank on the right side, according to the service manual) and have that shorted....and then maybe a little rubber plug to protect the threads on the lever?
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I would assume it's and easily bypassed circuit. Just take a look at the wiring diagram, but as a guess I'd say it's probably shorting the two wires to achieve the switch always on position.
Actually you can also check at the switch itself. Are the contacts closed when the lever is being held? Then yes, short the two wires and you're done. Just don't hit the starter button in gear after that unless the clutch lever is held ...
Yeah Kev, you’d hope so mate..
But these rotten FBW, ECU, CANBUS ?,TC, CC and a hundred other digital hurdles could stand in one’s way.
However, I guess you could install a temporary bridge and see what happens…
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Yeah Kev, you’d hope so mate..
But these rotten FBW, ECU, CANBUS ?,TC, CC and a hundred other digital hurdles could stand in one’s way.
However, I guess you could install a temporary bridge and see what happens…
My thoughts/concerns exactly. Maybe tomorrow I'll take a look at the connector and see if I can get my hands on what I'd need to test this
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Would also be interested if the switch position impacts Traction Control? and what would that mean if shorted
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Update: I found the appropriate connector and made a little shorting plug as Kev m suggested. I was able to start the bike in gear with the clutch lever pulled, and initially had the feeling that it was going to work out, but unfortunately it didn't all work the way I wanted it to.....the gear indicator didn't work at all, and it seemed like something funny was happening with the fueling. I was hearing more decel popping than normal (and that's with stock exhaust), and the idle RPM was quite low. So, I took out the shorting plug and reconnected the switch as soon as I got home from the less-than-three-mile test ride.
Any other ideas?
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Any other ideas?
You could relocate the switch to the other end of the cable, at the gearbox.
A reed switch mounted on the rear of the gearbox actuated by a magnet fixed to the clutch arm.
Reed switches are very fragile so install it in a protective non-ferrous or plastic housing that way it will last the life of the bike.
https://www.thisoldtractor.com/guzzi007/schematics/2019_V7_III_E4_Stone.gif
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You could relocate the switch to the other end of the cable, at the gearbox.
A reed switch mounted on the rear of the gearbox actuated by a magnet fixed to the clutch arm.
Reed switches are very fragile so install it in a protective non-ferrous or plastic housing that way it will last the life of the bike.
https://www.thisoldtractor.com/guzzi007/schematics/2019_V7_III_E4_Stone.gif
I can't quite visualize how this would be set up, but it's an interesting idea. Can you explain with more detail?
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I can't quite visualize how this would be set up, but it's an interesting idea. Can you explain with more detail?
I found the switch connector under the LH side of the tank, the two yellow wires are from the switch, the first thing I did was check out the switch, the contacts are normally open and they close when the lever is pulled in close to the bar.
(https://i.ibb.co/StCpkgy/DSCN1178.jpg) (https://ibb.co/StCpkgy)
I then checked the concept of replacing the original mechanical switch with a reed switch
The next picture shows a magnet attached to the clutch cable with the reed switch to the right- when the clutch is pulled the magnet moves closer to the reed closing the contact
(https://i.ibb.co/vzRYfZn/DSCN1180.jpg) (https://ibb.co/vzRYfZn) (https://i.ibb.co/PCVhQN8/DSCN1183.jpg) (https://ibb.co/PCVhQN8)
It would be very easy to mount the reed using the 8mm bolt shown, it just needs to be protected by some form of non ferrous housing e.g. Aluminum, Brass or Plastic.
Reed switches are a pair of contacts separated by a tiny gap, under the influence of a magnetic field they attract each other and close the contacts, they are typically rated in billions of operations so once protected from mechanical damage they will last the life of the bike. However too much current and the contacts will weld together, the ECU inputs only draw milliamps so thats ok.
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Caution: When the clutch lever microswitch is electrically closed (normally when the clutch lever is pulled away from the switch plunger), the parasitic current on the battery will increase from ~2 mA to ~55 mA, even when the ignition is off. This much draw will discharge the battery in a week or two.
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Caution: When the clutch lever microswitch is electrically closed (normally when the clutch lever is pulled away from the switch plunger), the parasitic current on the battery will increase from ~2 mA to ~55 mA, even when the ignition is off. This much draw will discharge the battery in a week or two.
That's very interesting, I wonder what some of the other sensors draw when off. The CARC bikes check the flasher lamps by passing a tiny current through each lamp even when the key is off, one owner changed from incandescent to LED lamps and found they would light up with the key removed.