1976 Lemans Project

[Don G]

Warm the housing good and bang her down on a block of wood, that inner race will just fall out, careful of where you are banging on make sure there is some meat there, and I dont mean yer finger!  DonG

[blackcat]

Warm the housing good and bang her down on a block of wood, that inner race will just fall out, careful of where you are banging on make sure there is some meat there, and I dont mean yer finger!  DonG

So, stick it in the oven until it gets up to 250 degrees and then slam it down on a block of wood.  And the small seal comes with it or does it melt to the side of the drive? Looks like there is a brass piece in there too

And if I don't heat it up:
I was looking at the two arm pulls from Harbor Freight and the space in side to pull out that seal. I assume there is something for the pull to grab onto but it seems very tight.

This puller looks like it might work for the inner race and the seal:
https://www.harborfreight.com/3-jaw-pilot-bearing-puller-4876.html

[Antietam Classic Cycle]

So, stick it in the oven until it gets up to 250 degrees and then slam it down on a block of wood.  And the small seal comes with it or does it melt to the side of the drive? Looks like there is a brass piece in there too

And if I don't heat it up:
I was looking at the two arm pulls from Harbor Freight and the space in side to pull out that seal. I assume there is something for the pull to grab onto but it seems very tight.

This puller looks like it might work for the inner race and the seal:
https://www.harborfreight.com/3-jaw-pilot-bearing-puller-4876.html

Usually at ~ 200*F the outer race will fall out unless someone has applied bearing retainer. The thrust washer will come out with it, but the seal will need to be levered out - I use a large flat-blade screwdriver inserted under the seal and twisted to pop it out.

I have one of those pullers and was never successful using it to remove the outer race, not that it's really needed once the housing is heated.

[blackcat]

Usually at ~ 200*F the outer race will fall out unless someone has applied bearing retainer. The thrust washer will come out with it, but the seal will need to be levered out - I use a large flat-blade screwdriver inserted under the seal and twisted to pop it out.

I have one of those pullers and was never successful using it to remove the outer race, not that it's really needed once the housing is heated.

Thanks Charley, going to give it a try this morning. Do you usually replace the needle bearing?

[blackcat]

I got the grille started, put some tinfoil down on top of the grate and placed the drive in there face down, at exactly 200 degrees I heard it fall out.


The seal fell apart and it looks like the metal edge is still in there and I'm reluctant to stick a screwdriver in there to pry it out. Should I stick it back in the oven and maybe it will pop out too? Also, is there a way to remove the spacer in the middle for easier access to set the new seal?

Is heating the hub up an option to remove the race? I will need a two jaw puller from HF to get that race off and I assume the puller will have to be ground down to catch the lip of the race. https://www.harborfreight.com/3-piece-two-jaw-puller-set-40966.html

[Antietam Classic Cycle]

I got the grille started, put some tinfoil down on top of the grate and placed the drive in there face down, at exactly 200 degrees I heard it fall out.


The seal fell apart and it looks like the metal edge is still in there and I'm reluctant to stick a screwdriver in there to pry it out. Should I stick it back in the oven and maybe it will pop out too? Also, is there a way to remove the spacer in the middle for easier access to set the new seal?

Is heating the hub up an option to remove the race? I will need a two jaw puller from HF to get that race off and I assume the puller will have to be ground down to catch the lip of the race. https://www.harborfreight.com/3-piece-two-jaw-puller-set-40966.html

I've never had the seal fall out even when using more heat, it will need to be pryed out. I forgot to mention removing the spacer - sometimes it will fall out once the housing is heated. Best to drive it out with an appropriate sized socket or similar while the housing is warm, but it can be done cold.

Unless you're replacing the bearing, there's no need to remove the inner race. Heating the hub will make it harder to remove. If you can heat the race only (heat gun or propane torch) it might help. I use a bearing separator of this type to remove it and usually don't heat it unless someone has used bearing retainer.



 

[blackcat]

Drive the spacer out from the outside of the rear drive after I heat it up? 

I was looking at the bearing separator at HF when I was buying those two jaw pullers, guess I'll take them back and get the bearing separator.  Will I have to replace the race on the hub or can I re-use the same one for the new hub?

Edit: OK, I got the spacer and the old race out.

[Antietam Classic Cycle]

Drive the spacer out from the outside of the rear drive after I heat it up? 

I was looking at the bearing separator at HF when I was buying those two jaw pullers, guess I'll take them back and get the bearing separator.  Will I have to replace the race on the hub or can I re-use the same one for the new hub?

Edit: OK, I got the spacer and the old race out.

Forgot you are replacing the hub. If you're reusing the outer race and needles/cage, then reuse the inner race as well.

[blackcat]

Forgot you are replacing the hub. If you're reusing the outer race and needles/cage, then reuse the inner race as well.

Thanks.

[blackcat]

Did you buy the large bearing puller or the smaller kit?
https://www.harborfreight.com/bearing-separator-and-puller-set-62593.html

[Antietam Classic Cycle]

Did you buy the large bearing puller or the smaller kit?
https://www.harborfreight.com/bearing-separator-and-puller-set-62593.html

I bought just the large separator, but that was years ago and mine looks different than the current offering.

[blackcat]

I bought just the large separator, but that was years ago and mine looks different than the current offering.

I bought the large one but can't get a bite on the edge of the bearing, going to take it back and try the smaller kit which has the puller attachments.

Maybe this one as it looks like the lip is smaller:
https://www.harborfreight.com/gear-puller-set-15-pc-62958.html

or this one:
https://www.harborfreight.com/bearing-separator-and-puller-set-62593.html

[blackcat]

Finally popped the race with this kit:

[Antietam Classic Cycle]

 

[blackcat]

Put everything back together, made sure the lash was OK but had to wait a few days for the Schnorr washers to show up at Fastenal which arrived this morning.

Just got back from a ride and no runs, no drips and hopefully no errors.

[Motorad64]

Looks like a tidy repair!  Glad you're back on the road

Mine's running well save for the petcocks not liking to just dump the fuel down the line but dribbling instead.

[Dave Swanson]

Good going! 

[blackcat]

Looks like a tidy repair!  Glad you're back on the road

Mine's running well save for the petcocks not liking to just dump the fuel down the line but dribbling instead.

I went through the same thing when I rebuilt the engine on my CX which had been sitting apart for months. Bike ran well when the tank was filled to the brim and starved for gas as the tank ran low on gas. The inline filters ended up being the problem so it was an easy fix.

I ran the Lemans this morning, checked the final drive temp when I got home then took out the 1000S as a comparison and the Lemans was 91 degree's and the 1000S was 104 with an outside temp of 89 degrees, so I at least know it isn't overheating from a bad mechanic who has never done this work before.

[blackcat]

This is the way I have routed the throttle cable for the right carb and can’t see how it can go behind the petcock. Is this the correct way for it to run?

[Antietam Classic Cycle]

Route the cables whatever way works best. Everything is tight or interferes with something it seems. 

[blackcat]

Route the cables whatever way works best. Everything is tight or interferes with something it seems. 

Yes, I just don't see any other way to route that cable but just thought I'd check. Just looks like over time that valve will start cutting through the cable so I'm going to get a cable shield for extra protection.

[Motorad64]

I had mine set up with two individual L/R petcocks, marked BAP to a single inlet banjo on each carb.   Mentioned the lean behavior when tank got low on fuel and Charlie suggested a dual inlet banjo and running a balance line.  Fixed it right up.  Ran all the way down to reserve then lower with nary a pop or hiccup. 

She's running good.  Now if only those crazy stiff FAC dampers would break in....

[1down5up]

This is the way I have routed the throttle cable for the right carb and can’t see how it can go behind the petcock. Is this the correct way for it to run?

Most (including the factory i believe) Rotate the carbs inwards 10deg or so, this allows the cable to run behind the petcock - if you have a look at pics you will usually see that the carbs are tilted inwards a touch.

[Canuck750]

This worked for me

[blackcat]

Most (including the factory i believe) Rotate the carbs inwards 10deg or so, this allows the cable to run behind the petcock - if you have a look at pics you will usually see that the carbs are tilted inwards a touch.

Got it,  and I did note that in the factory photo’s but didn’t make the connection. Thanks!

[blackcat]

I had mine set up with two individual L/R petcocks, marked BAP to a single inlet banjo on each carb.   Mentioned the lean behavior when tank got low on fuel and Charlie suggested a dual inlet banjo and running a balance line.  Fixed it right up.  Ran all the way down to reserve then lower with nary a pop or hiccup. 

She's running good.  Now if only those crazy stiff FAC dampers would break in....

Good on the lean fix. Yeah the FAC’s take awhile to break in, did you also go with Wirth springs? Took me about 3,000+ miles to break those in on my CX. I have the stock set up on this Lemans and so far I have no complaints.

[Antietam Classic Cycle]

I had mine set up with two individual L/R petcocks, marked BAP to a single inlet banjo on each carb.   Mentioned the lean behavior when tank got low on fuel and Charlie suggested a dual inlet banjo and running a balance line.  Fixed it right up.  Ran all the way down to reserve then lower with nary a pop or hiccup. 

She's running good.  Now if only those crazy stiff FAC dampers would break in....

 

[Frenchfrog]

Mine are getting there after about 1000km but the roads i ride one are rough ! I have to say I was seriously shocked at first