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Replacing Brake Rotor Bolts

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Mike Tashjian:
I thought a propane torch was needed to soften the Locktite on some brake rotor bolts.  I think 450 degrees was the temperature that you aim for.  And it really doesn't seem to bother the paint if you aim for the bolt head.   

John A:
The factory fasteners for brake discs are one time use. If I’m concerned about clamping under the head with a smaller diameter, I use AN 560 (5/16) aviation washers. I attempted to drill the heads on some property class 80 stainless Allen heads that I use for discs . I was using them elsewhere and needed to safety wire them so it’s a simple task to drill them. Not so with class 80’s, even going up to a 40 (large)drill bit.  I’ll order some 70’s, they are roughly equivalent to a grade 5 and are at least soft enough to drill.

rschrum:
I like the titanium offerings from ProBolt.

John A:
Metric stainless has a different marking and specs system. It goes like this: 40 is soft, 70 and 80. similar to SAE grades 2,5,8
https://www.fastenal.com/en/76/metric-system-and-specifications

Dirk_S:
Appreciate all the replies!


--- Quote from: Mike Tashjian on January 17, 2022, 04:53:07 PM ---I thought a propane torch was needed to soften the Locktite on some brake rotor bolts.  I think 450 degrees was the temperature that you aim for.  And it really doesn't seem to bother the paint if you aim for the bolt head.

--- End quote ---

I know red loctite is the type that requires heat, but the blue stuff usually pops off with a little extra twist. I'll have to check the service manual for what they recommend.


--- Quote from: rodekyll on January 17, 2022, 02:43:09 PM ---I'd caution you about using stainless for that purpose.  They are soft and not intended for high torque applications.

--- End quote ---

This is exactly why I asked the question, because I was thinking maybe softer bolts were better, otherwise why would so many factory manuals call for replacement if they could simply use harder, more brittle bolts with higher tensile strength.

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