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I would assume it's and easily bypassed circuit. Just take a look at the wiring diagram, but as a guess I'd say it's probably shorting the two wires to achieve the switch always on position.Actually you can also check at the switch itself. Are the contacts closed when the lever is being held? Then yes, short the two wires and you're done. Just don't hit the starter button in gear after that unless the clutch lever is held ...
Yeah Kev, you’d hope so mate..But these rotten FBW, ECU, CANBUS ?,TC, CC and a hundred other digital hurdles could stand in one’s way.However, I guess you could install a temporary bridge and see what happens…
Any other ideas?
You could relocate the switch to the other end of the cable, at the gearbox.A reed switch mounted on the rear of the gearbox actuated by a magnet fixed to the clutch arm.Reed switches are very fragile so install it in a protective non-ferrous or plastic housing that way it will last the life of the bike.https://www.thisoldtractor.com/guzzi007/schematics/2019_V7_III_E4_Stone.gif
I can't quite visualize how this would be set up, but it's an interesting idea. Can you explain with more detail?
Caution: When the clutch lever microswitch is electrically closed (normally when the clutch lever is pulled away from the switch plunger), the parasitic current on the battery will increase from ~2 mA to ~55 mA, even when the ignition is off. This much draw will discharge the battery in a week or two.