self healing ECU

[Yukonica]

How long does it take for modern ECU to auto correct to dramatic changes in the system? I'm a little bit stymied.
Here is every step that leads to the question: 2013 V7Special @ 12Km
Swapped out stock pipes for Mistral shorties over the winter.
Kept original spark plugs in place (12k on them). Rode the set-up through 2.5 tanks of fuel without missing a stroke.

Last night I changed the oil.  Noticed the lead from the carbon canister (whatever it is called) that heads up to ECU was knocked off so I put a gasoline joint in place, stuck the hose back on, and promptly forgot to finish the seal with RTV. (Checked tonight and everything is in place there.. air leak and all)
This morning I replaced the plugs. Warming up the bike for the commute to work I was shocked at how hot it appeared to get. ~ smoking off the pipes. By the time I reached town (35km) the bike was stumbling at any RPM under 4k. It almost felt like fuel was building in one cylinder then letting go. bup, bup, bup BUMP... etc.
On the way home the stumbling at low RPM increased and for the first time in 12k km I was hearing popping  on downshifts.
Made it home down the highway running smoothly between 4k and 5.5k rpm.
Let the bike cool off and replaced the new plugs with the old. Warmed it back up. The stumble was 1/4 what it was with the new plugs. Haven't had time to test ride it yet.

First option I expect to read is 'reflash' ... I don't know anyone within a thousand miles who has the technology, the skill, or the V7 map.
ReFlash is triage. Guzzitech sells mapped ECU for 670 $US. 

I'll be putting the original pipes back on as soon as I locate new graphite bushings. (Mistrals were a tad louder than I expected so no big loss)
Back to the original point: are self correcting ECU actually self correcting? How many hours/km does the engine meed to run before the map is reset?
Why did the old plugs not cause any stumble (this is supposition because I haven't actually run the bike longer than a couple minutes with the replaced older plugs)
Interested in any lines of advice or speculation. Summer is here and I want to ride. Mistrals or not.

[Kent in Upstate NY]

Cracked plug connections?

[guzzisteve]

It has limits. If you make changes, you are to reset the 'self learning' w/software. Even then it has limits, but it helps.

[Yukonica]

It has limits. If you make changes, you are to reset the 'self learning' w/software. Even then it has limits, but it helps.

How does one reset self learning? ... aside from yoga and green tea? :)

[Yukonica]

Cracked plug connections?

Don't think so. The plugs were taken out when I adjusted the valves at the first service and have never been out since... until this morning.
My personality, being new to mechanical work, is somewhere along the continuum of diligent, fastidious, or obsessive.... not quite to neurotic levels.
I'm pretty careful about each action and step I take.

[beetle]

How does one reset self learning? ... aside from yoga and green tea? :)

Pull main fuses or disconnect battery momentarily. It takes a while for the ECU to trim properly. Steady throttle over a long period.

And may I suggest Illuminatea?

[Vasco DG]

Pull main fuses or disconnect battery momentarily. It takes a while for the ECU to trim properly. Steady throttle over a long period.

And may I suggest Illuminatea?

 :D

Pete

[guzzisteve]

Guzzi dealer software (PADS) has a self learning reset.

[beetle]

As does GuzziDiag.

[Cam3512]

Wait, go back to where you said the "lead" from the carbon cannister to the "ECU" was disconnected.  Are you referring to the HOSE that leads up to the throttle body intake?   You said there is still an air leak?

[pauldaytona]

You did  connect the wrong parts with repairing the lead?

[mtiberio]

can't imagine any reason why a wire would lead from the canister to the ecu...

[oldbike54]

can't imagine any reason why a wire would lead from the canister to the ecu...

 I think he meant to say hose , not lead .

  Dusty

[Yukonica]

Wait, go back to where you said the "lead" from the carbon cannister to the "ECU" was disconnected.  Are you referring to the HOSE that leads up to the throttle body intake?   You said there is still an air leak?

Yes, that's the item. Although the connector fills the hole quite snuggly I'm sure it isn't as sealed as the nipple that had broken off. RTV will cure that.

[pyoungbl]

Wait a minute...all this talk about a hose going to the computer got me thinking (never a good sign) as to what in the heck that could be.  Went out to the garage and checked my '13.  Ain't no hose going to my ECU!  There are three hoses going to the air box that lives in close proximity to the ECU (one from each head to send blowby to the  front of the airbox; one from the sump to the side of the airbox for the same purpose).  There is a hose going to the "Y" connector just downstream from the throttle body.  That used to go to the cannister, which fell off months ago.  Mine is plugged with a screw and clamp.  If you have an air leak there you are introducing lots of air to the mix and thus running pretty darn lean since the bike already runs lean.  I bet the O2 sensors are having a fit with that leak. 

Plug that darn hose!

[Wayne Orwig]

Kept original spark plugs in place (12k on them). Rode the set-up through 2.5 tanks of fuel without missing a stroke.

Not broken.

Last night I changed the oil.  Noticed the lead from the carbon canister (whatever it is called) that heads up to ECU was knocked off so I put a gasoline joint in place, stuck the hose back on,

Now it is broken.

[lucian]

Now I'm confused, I've never heard of an ecu taking input from a hose, Perhaps the hose runs to a condenser box?

[Cam3512]

Holy mackerel!  Sounds like the HOSE from the evap cannister to the throttle body intake was detatched.

If not tight at top or bottom, that's your problem.  Sucking to much air.

[Matteo]

 >:

 :D

Pete

;D ;D ;D

[Yukonica]

Well, it isn't the first time I've been told I suck.

So,the hose that is not a lead that does not go to the ECU should be air tight... got it.
 ;D

I'll try TVR the entire undercarriage, unplug the battery life support overnight, adjust the valves while I'm waiting and hope for the best.

Being of lesser experience I am grateful for the good humor pushing out good advice offered by everyone on this forum.
A great place to hang out.
Thanks.

[Cam3512]

Nah, no one said you suck.  That's why we're all here to try to help eathother out.  Let us know how things work out.

[lucky phil]

Well, it isn't the first time I've been told I suck.

So,the hose that is not a lead that does not go to the ECU should be air tight... got it.
 ;D

I'll try TVR the entire undercarriage, unplug the battery life support overnight, adjust the valves while I'm waiting and hope for the best.

Being of lesser experience I am grateful for the good humor pushing out good advice offered by everyone on this forum.
A great place to hang out.
Thanks.

Good idea, you've got a problem you can't figure out so introduce another variable to the equation by doing a valve adjustment!!!
This isn't rocket surgery.
Ciao

[Yukonica]

Good idea, you've got a problem you can't figure out so introduce another variable to the equation by doing a valve adjustment!!!
This isn't rocket surgery.
Ciao

Good call.
Will put aside my desire to maximize down time.
.... but all those hours sitting .... doing nothing....
May I at least replace the plugs?  ;)

[pauldaytona]

You could start with making some clear pictures or the line you connected, so we can see what you did.

[Bill Havins]

...and did you gap the new plugs?

[rocker59]

I think the first thing I would do would be disconnect the line that you connected.

1) Bike was running fine with line disconnected.

2) Bike runs like crap with line connected..

3) take pictures and post them here, so those who know can tell you what you're dealing with.

Like Dusty said, it ain't rocket surgery.

Back up and start where you were when things were running well.

[Yukonica]

Sealing the insert seems to have had some positive effect. One: the bike idles correctly. Two; the deceleration popping is gone.
Now it appears the machine runs on one cylinder under load.
Will be taking Rocker59's advice to retrace the entire process from the beginning.
What an excuse to spend the weekend of the Spanish GP in the shop?
Did I mention it snowed yesterday and is hailing right now?
Love Yukon.

[rodekyll]

We got hail and snow last night but only rain today.

One side dropping out under load could be a bad spark plug/wire/cap on that side.  Swap your coil power leads (and the spark plug leads) and see if the problem moves too.

[Yukonica]

One side dropping out under load could be a bad spark plug/wire/cap on that side.  Swap your coil power leads (and the spark plug leads) and see if the problem moves too.
[/quote]

Tried to follow this path today. The leads from the harness to the coils are too short to swap.
So I checked the canister to be sure it hadn't spit out my handy work, disconnected the battery to reset the electronics, gapped the new plugs to .635mm (about the middle of the listed specs), torqued the plugs to exact spec, warmed up the bike and took a test ride to see if the old plugs were the problem.
For the first 3 km I was certain the issue was resolved. Bike ran normal, upshifted with certainty and held a steady rhythm at 4000 rpm.
Then one jug began cutting out again.
Rode another km turned around and found the bike was smooth from 5500 and up. Back in the shop I measured the temperature of the point where the lambda plugs into the exhaust pipe. Left side was approaching 300f. Right side was 145f.
Thought I'd just swap over the spark plug leads to isolate the next level of possibility but they are different lengths. The left is possibly 25% longer than the right.
I am hesitant to move forward without knowing if the the difference will make a significant impact on signal from the coil.

[rodekyll]

I wouldn't worry about a little difference in plug wire length.