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Some will call me crazy but I'd replace all wheel bearings on a 2000 M/Y motorcycle as a matter of course. And a lot of other stuff, too.
The bearings are available at almost any bearing house , cheap . What happened that the top end needed rebuilding at that low mileage ? Dusty
465,000 km and you live in Victoria/Australia.My # is 0437070946May I have the honour of meeting you ?Peter...(Huzo)
Is the mileage 400 thousand K's or 40 Thousands K 's ? Not trying at all to be snarky , just curious . Thanks . Dusty
OK , thanks , Huzo was confused , his normal state
the bike has about 46500kms on it....
OK , thanks , Huzo was confused , his normal state Anyway , can't hurt to do the bearings while you have the wheel off , have known them to go 100,000 Kms , and the other end fail at 30,000 Kms . Oh , the rear bearings are different than the fronts , although you probably already know that . Dusty
As for your other questions , do a quick search here , the U joint etc are probably OK . Trust me , you can't ignore Huzo , he's like a force of Nature Dusty
Since you’re there and have the time..Pull the swingarm too..large really fine thread mini axles, and their bearings on both sides like attention…they get creamed in wet weather…measure them sticking out before dissassembly…lube/check/replace shock bushings…With the swingarm out, check the driveshaft bearing and universal…zero play on the uni…if you replace one replace both w the understanding it’s an interference fit before you reinstall the swingarm…the right plumbing tube can hold the uni straight while being pressed in…local machine shop can help…When you pick up the new bearings, feel how smooth they are by pressing and turning…compare that ‘feel’ w the old ones in the bike…no grit, no grumbles thru your fingers, don’t replace them…put the new ones in your luggage and you’ll never need them again…just because you have spares on the bike..lolCeracote or paint the swingarm?Measure by caliper the reinstalled swingarm mini axles..Lube the driveshaft fore and aft on reassembly…close the swingarm by tightening the four bolts on the drive to swingarm, last…after torquing the axelLots of gritty mess underneath the rear once the swingarm is outGreat fun
You say you've oil weeping from the rev sensor. I use some Threebond on the o-ring to fix that. Threebond will likely work fine for the neutral sensor as well.Re the battery - you're lucky 'cos you live in Aust - recommend SSB - Powersports lithium - I get mine from Batteries Direct in Padstow NSW - sometime the postage is free & sometime it's $10. There's 2 or 3 different ones that should be suitable. Superior CCA are fantastic & 1.1kg is a bonus. Check out the website for the sizes & more details.
As a shock moves up and down, it also wants to rotate very slightly at the mounts..Most shocks like a little grease there to help smooth the rotation…it’s also an opportunity to check the bushings, or whatever method your bike uses
No one mentioned to lube the drive shaft and rear drive to wheel splines when you have it apart, very important thing to do. DonG
You could pull the pinion assembly out and check the pinion nut torque just cuz your there. if it is not leaking dont open it up. DG
Your foto is a great example of that uni joint area..I’m guessing the heating and cooling inside that closed area creates moisture. That is h2o not oil? Rust, then grit, then no more uni over timeMakes me think of drilling a small hole to vent…or alternatively…push some grease/oil/lubricant into that closed section just to keep water out
Well I would check the pinion nut, they seem to have a habit of coming loose and ruining your day, pull the nut and apply red loctite, have seen many drives ruined due to this. DonG