General Category > Bike Builds, Rebuilds And Restorations Only
1967 V700 Corsa-Record
Dave Swanson:
This is such a cool project! You are taking this Guzzisti thing to an extreme!
cliffrod:
--- Quote from: Dave Swanson on September 01, 2019, 02:56:10 PM ---This is such a cool project! You are taking this Guzzisti thing to an extreme!
--- End quote ---
Dave, It looks like you have both a V700 and an Eldo. Maybe you would be willing to look at your bikes for me? I need help.
The original Record bikes were operated with no side or center stand. When parked, some pics show the later curved Ambo-Eldo center stand in place, which does look more graceful than the V700 centerstand. Can you look and tell me if the bumper or stand stop on frame for both the V700 center stand and later Ambo-Eldo stand is similar, identical, very different, same place, ??
When I cut the passenger peg frame loops to modify the frame for the rear sets, the OEM center stand bumper location will be lost. I need to start planning how to resolve that. I have to make and install the rearsets before I can do any significant work to make the exhaust.
If I just leave the sidestand in place as a workaround, that will interfere with an original-style full fairing that I plan to produce in the future....
Maybe you or someone else can help me with this information?
Dave Swanson:
I checked both frames and the center stand bumper is located in the same place for both.
This is the V700
cliffrod:
--- Quote from: Dave Swanson on September 01, 2019, 03:36:35 PM ---I checked both frames and the center stand bumper is located in the same place for both.
This is the V700
--- End quote ---
Thanks, Dave. I thought they were the same and wanted confirmation. I'll keep figuring it out.
cliffrod:
Fabricating the bucks for rear fender, seat and tank.
These bucks are more complicated than the few I've made in the past. Producing properly places, well-cut & tight fitting joints while using my bandsaw was a priority. I used furniture-grade 3/4" Maple faced plywood. These three bucks required less than 1 full sheet of plywood, including a few pieces that needed to be cut again. No glue or filler was used. Hands handling metal get dirty and smudge the wood, so I apply whatever I have available for polyurethane to the bucks after completion before metal shaping begins. This keep the bucks cleaner during use and they look better later, especially as the poly yellows and honeys as time passes.
1. Rear Fender Buck-
This is the least complicated buck of the three. It did require the most fitted joints to be cut. Good practice.
Some pics show a short rear fender eliminator. Some don't. It even appears and disappears from the full fairing Record bike in the MG Museum, depending upon when pictures are taken. It doesn't seem to be a cut-down OEM rear fender.
I estimated the general shape by taking a radius from the axle, at rest, to the fender mount on battery tray and another radius from the axle to the rear frame fender mount. then I merged these two on paper by eyeballing where the transition looked appropriate.
This pattern was transferred to plywood, sawed and sanded on the large belt sander. A decision was made about the number of stations to be produced. Placement for eight stations was laid out on the blank-
The cross section radius of the fender was copied from the battery tray and frame fender mounts. This was used to develop the pattern for the eight buck stations. These were cut out on the bandsaw. Then these were ganged together with screws so they could be sanded together to closely match. At first I sanded 4 ganged together at a time.
After the stations were close, I began laying out sawing parameters for fitment on both the main armature and the individual stations. Practice is important to know how your bandsaw will cut, drift, the side of the line to watch and kerf as well as what will break blades, etc. Sharp blades drift less and break less (because they require less tension) than less happy blades. It's simple to braze a broken blade back together if it's still good & sharp. Doing that is not an inconvenience- it is another chance practice to make nice viable joints in metal.
I made a simple transfer gauge from a piece of scrap-
Then I set up the two stacks of stations to lay out the cutting lines. The transfer gauge was clamped in the benchmate, the stacks were centered and aligned and marked for cutting.
After marking the tops, the transfer gauge was removed from the benchmate and the cut line was transferred along the adjacent sides.
Then to the bandsaw to SLOWLY cut along these lines. Going slow helps limit blade drift between top & bottom and subsequent crooked cuts....
After sawing, alignment and quality of cut for a tight fit can be checked by fitting over a piece of the same plywood. All was good, so none had to be recut- very cool. The two stacks are ganged together, face to face as the cuts were laid out, and trued all together on the belt sander.
I did tune the sawed slot while they were ganged together with an improvise sanding board. Worked slow but helped make great joints.
You probably notice a couple of the stations are missing corners. That comes from being cheap (Guzzi content) and using scrap from the previous buck....
Then it was a simple task to use the same transfer gauge and the slotted stations to lay out cut lines on the main armature, go to the band saw and keep moving forward-
I did decide to relieve the edges of all the stations for a stringer along each side. Then put it together and tuned it up a little on the belt sander. Since it all fit well, it didn't need much..
I decided to remove a portion of each side stringer so it would be easy to install the buck in a vise while I was using it to save workbench space. The only assembly hardware used were the shown screws. No glue and nearly all was a press-tight fit.
Add some polyurethane, let dry, sand lightly, tack, repeat as couple of times and it looks like store bought. very cool.
On to the next one..
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