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lol. Kev, the TSB you just listed from 2008 says to call the Moto Guzzi Help Desk. For some reason all I can picture is a tiny table with an old rotary phone on it, that's not even plugged in.
Do the engine rpms drop much when you pull the clutch lever at a stop?
John A,If that turns out to be the trouble, is there any recourse under some kind of extended warranty? Or, was Guzzi only taking care of certain years and original owners?Secondly, was that issue not confined to the V7II's within a range of serial numbers? I'm thinking a 2010 would not have had this issue, but what do I know.John Henry
Welcome to WG and good on you for trying to do as much as you can on your own. Unfortunately I know nothing about the newer bikes but it doesn't seem like you have a major problem on your hands. Seems like your bike needs a thorough tune up. Also, if you tell us where you are folks can recommend the best dealer to take it to - or the one you don't want working on your bike...Cheers, John Wendt in Wisconsin
I can't say about the earlier ones but in the case of the V7II's it was a bad batch of crankshafts that were machined undersized at the factory so the thrust bearings (which WERE properly installed) would move/fall out of place. Jim Hamlin was kind enough to show me a couple of disassembled motors with the bad cranks when I was there with Cam one time. So the V7II's were clearly a factory defect.
Thanks for the update Kev. I had previously understood the problem was the thrust washers were omitted on assembly. Hmm—crank was undersize. I can understand omitting a few washers occasionally, but how do you cut multiple cranks too short?
I keep typing out advice, only to have the iPad &/or the mobile broadband redraw the screen & wipe the lot, so I Will try doing it in small bites.First, fix the choke/fast idle. It may not be strictly necessary but it's easy enough to do & then doesn't interfere with anything else.Mal
It is a symptom of the fatal small block crankshaft thrust washer failure. There is a two piece half moon shaped thrust bearing that sits in the block that are on both sides of a flange on the rear of the crank to control fore and aft movement. If they are defective, when you pull the clutch lever it moves the crankshaft forward, squeezing it against the block and slowing the engine down. For small blocks with a timing hole you can visually see the amount by sticking a screwdriver in the hole and prying the flywheel aft , then pulling the clutch which pushes it forward. Engine off of course. Any more than maybe a millimeter means trouble. Without a timing hole maybe you can remove the alternator cover and push the alternator aft then pull the lever. I’ve only had it on a ‘86 V65, there was a few that evidently left the factory with mismade half moons installed. They were too long so when the block halves were put together it deformed them. The symptoms were that it would run fine but would kill when you came to a stop and pull the clutch lever. If it is the problem it is best not to run it until it’s fixed. If you catch it before it chews up the black and crank maybe you can get by with replacing the bearings. It will run to failure if you let it and then it takes a block repair and a crank weld up on the flange, both of which are troublesome.
Thanks so much for the feedback. Any tips on how exactly I should begin going about this?
Many bikes die when the clutch lever is pulled in for multiple reasons. He definitely needs to eliminate all other possibilities for jumping to this conclusion.
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