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A bit different to what I thought but it runs from the ignition switch through the kill switch and then to the sidestand relay. The sidestand relay is de-energized when in normal operation (typical odd Guzzi wiring) and also gives the feed to the starter solenoid, so if you can start it the relay is not doing anything abnormalHowever as the fault is intermittent and not lasting too long it might be an idea to swap that relay out or over with another relay just to eliminate it and also take a look at the connections around that relay, clean and seating well, you know the drill. Although it's a bit of a forlorn hope, a relay dropping out occasionally is one thing, picking up is quite another. What I am wondering about is if the sidestand switch is dodgy and possibly just making, or the stand is rattling about just enough to occasionally trigger the switch.You could eliminate that by pulling the grey wire off terminal 85 on relay 41 (remember to check the stand mind when you take off)I don't know Digiplex at all, but it looks like there is also a relay in there and also a phase sensor make sure the relay is good and the phase sensor pickup is cleanForget what I said about the coils I'm talking mince the Digiplex sort of makes the comments redundant. What you could do is tap into 87a terminal on relay 41, red and white wire going to the Digiplex and check it for voltage you could tap into it with something like a Positap or make a short fly lead with another wire coming off to monitor with the voltmeterhttp://www.posi-products.com/posiplug.html you can get them off Amazon a zillion time better than ScotchlocksIf you used heavier gauge on the ignition then it should be good but I still worry a little, how hot is hot...............b urny burny or just warm. It also depends on quality too (although Guzzi are no angels in that regard) As an aside I prefer thinwall cable it has a far higher current carrying capacityYou are in Blighty Yes? I'm in Jockland AES do thinwallhttps://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/Yes if you fried the coils it would show up in a resistance check again as I know sod all about the Digiplex I don't know if it has built in protection or not, you could check if you want by leaving the ignition switch on and just feeling the coils after 5 or minutes, if there is no protection they will get warm quite quickly usually. If you want to stay on the safe side when doing any work with the ignition switch on put the kill switch to "kill"Be interested to know how you get on
The advance mechanism on the DigiPlex is mechanical and vacuum operated. The hose on it's vacuum feed is prone to dry rotting and leaking. Moisture gets in there and the mechanism can bind up. A fresh bit of vacuum hose and a shot of silicone lube up into the mechanism on the DigiPlex box can help. Had this issue on my first Cali III some years ago.
It sounds to me like it could be ignition alsoCheck the Voltage at the coilMeasure the resistance from the plug caps to chassis, both sides should be identical, I'm guessing 8,000 OhmsIf the spark is weak when you open the throttle the extra mixture requires a higher Voltage for the spark to jump the gap.
Ahhh Martin you've attracted Kiwi Roy to the case, listen to him the guy REALLY REALLY know his onions when it comes to the Elek-TrickeryGood luck I'm keeping my eye on the thread from time to timeI was thinking that the drop in Volts you see from the misfire may just be attribitutable to the drop in RPMs when one side starts to cut, the revs will drop and that will reduce the generator output, so I could be leading you up the garden path there. The additional earth the Reg/Rec though is still a good idea and worth a look if it's easily accessible.I also thought it might be an idea to measure voltage at the coil at one point so I'd defo do as Roy asksJohn
I assume this bike has a factory electronic ignition? Does it still use a typical Guzzi distributor with an electronic device and mechanical advance? Or is the ignition full electronic with nothing mechanical? It's easier for a weak ignition to fire a richer mixture ,you said it runs a bit better with the chokes on...The electronic ignition may have issues... This is assuming the "chokes" when closed are not passing extra fuel to the engine... But usually the idle will be way off normal with leaky cold start plungers.
It sounds to me like it could be ignition alsoCheck the Voltage at the coilMeasure the resistance from the plug caps to chassis, both sides should be identical, I'm guessing 8,000 Ohms
I took her out for a good run yesterday to see if I could find more indication of the issues at hand, but in reality it just got more eratic, leading me to believe it must for sure be an ignition fault.Sometimes when accelerating from low revs, the engine would cut, then I'd drop down a gear and the engine would take hold again and away she flew. Other times I'd be accelerating in a lower gear at higher revs, the engine would cut, this time stepping up a gear, thus accelerating in low revs, the bike would take hold and fly again. Thus, two totally conflicting sets of circumstances brought about the same failure. I have to deduce from that, that what I'm looking for is an ignition fault, and doubting it's the coils themselves, as it'd be unbelievable bad luck if I swapped a dodgy coils for another with exactly the same issues. I will try swapping the old R/H one for the spare I've fitted to the problematic L/H side, but it's sop remote a chance, it's hardly worth bothering with. When the engine dies on acceleration, it's either the left side failing and the right can't take that throttle on it's own and gets bogged down....... or both coils are not producing sufficient sparks due to a fault somewhere back in the electrics feeding them.It's really easy for this kind of fuckery to hide itself. It will most likely be something very simple if only I could trace it. As I said above I'm no expert with electrics, but I have a multi meter and a pair of eyes.......... here goes again. Izzug
The schematic shows a Ducati Energia RegulatorYou should get a reading with the diode testerRed lead to yellow, black lead to red of about 0.5 VoltsSame on the other yellowThe diodes in these regulators are between the yellow and redYellow---->|------Red-----|<-----YellowI really don't think it's a battery Voltage problem, it should run even if the battery was a bit low e.g. 10 VoltsCould you plug the muffler holes with muffler putty to see if the popping improves?I assume you are referring to relay 10, I don't know what that's required for
Digiplex Ignition on SPIII and SpadaOn my SPIII with a Digiplex ignition, it would occasionally quite and then restart, a most dangerous situation. In an effort to fix it, I replaced the ignition relay with a SPDT relay (5 pin). With the new relay, it just wouldn't run. Upon checking, I found that the 5 pin relay is in fact a SPST relay with the center pin just another connection to the 87 pin. So what you have is two 87 pins connected (both are designated as 87, not one 87 and one 87A). On the SPIII, the center pin needs the connection to the outer pin in order for the ignition to work. I removed the connectors from the collector and tighten them up before reinstalling. Everything is now fine.
The resistance between plug cap and chassis is 11k on the R/H and 11.18k L/HMy coils I removed from the bike gave readings of :- R/H primary 1.0 Secondary 31.80k L/H primary 1.3 Secondary 32.50kStupidly, although I took readings of both coils when fitting the spares I had, I only managed to write one down for some reason, and that read:- primary 1.3, secondary 33.31k.Does that give you anything to go on?
The resistance doesn't add up from cap to chassis should be the greatest as it's the sum of cap, lead and coil.Switch the meter leads around also, any difference points to a corroded connection creating a cell.relays photohttps://ibb.co/fZsybdYes the relays are the same, just different makeI'm thinking less and less about electricalThe mixture screw should make a difference, perhaps it has a blocked passageYou should balance the carbs again, one way is to use a drill bit under the slide as a gauge, both sides the same but if you have ports for a "U" tube manometer just make one from plastic tube and some engine oil
I really don't know how you have the patience for this. If it were me, I would have fitted a points dizzy and got a pair of good quality car coils, new copper wire leads and be done with it. I did that to my Cali when the ignition started to play funny buggers and after it was always rock solid. But I'm a grumpy old man. And you izzug otom are a backwards kinda guy.