V7 Owners. Tire question and maintenance question.

[Toecutter]

1) The tire question:

So, wife and I bought our dream house in the sticks. With it, comes gravel/ dirt roads... about 6 km of it to get home from the highway, and about 15 or so to the sister-in-law's place.

Wife's bike is due for new tires now anyways, as her current Pirelli Sport Demons are at the end of their useful life.

So, I would really like some suggestions from anyone that's gone the 90/10, 80/20 dual sport or scrambler route. Anyone out there got a decent tire suggestion that will give a bit more dirt confidence while not sacrificing too much high speed highway and cornering confidence? Are the stock tires on the Stornello worth it?

2) The maintenance question(s)

- bevel box vent cap. What's the torque spec on it? And... what's the best way to clean it? Soak it in gas and use compressed air?

- Rear tire change. What's the procedure? Remove bevel box entirely with wheel? Can you get the wheel off without removing the bevel box?

Thank you in advance. For the record, yes, I have some mechanical skill, I've rebuilt a great deal of old hondas, I just don't wanna screw anything up on this one, and would prefer to go into it forewarned and well equipped.

[Kev m]

Can't help with tires.

Vent - I've not bothered to clean it yet (maybe I'd give it a spritz of brakleen and a quick, low pressure spray of the compressor hose eventually). Also, unless I missed it, no torque spec given in the service manual.

Rear Tire Change - The factory doesn't give an isolated rear wheel removal/installation procedure, it's part of swingarm removal. There are two schools of thought:

1. Remove the left shock, left caliper and mounting bracket for clearance.

or

2. Remove the rear wheel along with the entire rear drive.


Proponents of #2 will tell you it's "necessary" so you can lube the splines that were probably dry from the factory. Of course, lubing said splines is not part of any OEM service procedure now or at any point so that's up to you.

I used method #2 the first time and was caught off guard when the pinion pulled free during removal. Wasn't a big deal, but I won't be using that method again because I think it's un-necessary. Of course, I did lube the splines since I was there anyway, but I'll be going with #1 from now on.

Some torque figures which are available that you might need with either method:

Swing Arm

1 Swingarm clamp retaining screw M10x45 1 30 Nm (22.13 lbf ft) -

2 Pin fixing the rear calliper holding plate to swingarm M16x1 1 25 Nm (18.44 lbf ft) -

3 Nut fixing gearcase to swingarm M8 4 25 Nm (18.44 lbf ft) Hold the stud bolt

Shocks

2 Lower pin fastening left shock absorber to swingarm M10x1.5 1 35 Nm (25.81 lbf ft)

Rear Wheel

1 Rear wheel axle nut M16x1.5 1 120 Nm (88.51 lb ft) -

Rear Brakes

1 Rear brake calliper fixing screw M8x30 2 25 Nm (18.44 lb ft) -


Hope that helps,

Kev

[v65tt]

I can recommend the Goldentyre GT201 fitted to the Stornello.   Ace on road and tracks.  Have got them on my SWM Trail.  They hold on really well on tarmac and more than enough for the odd bit of off road / grass i do

Got Bridgestone TrailWing TW41/42's on my V7TT and I have to say they are probably the best 80/20 I have ever tyres I have ever used

They take every bit of power the modded v7 engine can give and don't complain.. Got about 2500 miles out of the back including many stop lamp races to show up the local V7's ;-)

[sib]

....- bevel box vent cap. What's the torque spec on it?....

I've read everything available on this bike and haven't found a published torque spec on the bevel box vent.  I regularly remove it to add lube, using a large syringe, instead of adding the lube through the "filler" hole.  When I replace the vent, I use a new crush washer (w/rubber ring, part GU01528930) and torque it to 12 Nm.  That's always worked for me, it's never gotten loose or leaked, and never stripped any threads.

[redhawk47]

Glad to see endorsement of the Stornello tires.
The Bridgestone TrailWing TW41 is available in 21" only
I've read good reviews on Kenda K-761. If you have a Stone they are the only tubeless dual-sport tires that fit the V7 without doing something special like mounting a rear tire on the front (reversed). I'm thinking about doing that with Avon Trailrider
If you have spoked wheels: I like Shinko 705s. Use the 4.10-18 on the front (93mph speed rating). I use them on my other dual-sports and Adv bikes.

[malik]

Even though I remove the bevel box to grease the splines each tyre change, I remove the wheel first, using Kev's method 1. There is a detailed instruction in the Files section on the MG750 Yahoo site. Tip: it's easier to get the wheel past the mudguard if the bike is leaning a little to the left - a 1" - 2" block of wood under the right hand leg of the centre stand works - and on reassembly the Cush rubbers tend to stay in better. Tip: strap/tie the LHS shock up high to keep it out on the way. Tip: it can be frustrating as you may be thinking that nothing is going back in - it just won't fit! It actually does when you get the alignment just right, although there's no room to spare. Tip: if you get get to a stage where nothing is going back in properly & it feels like you knocking your head against the wall, take a break, have a beer , have a smoke, or a cuppa, come back to it when you've calmed down. It often then just slips back in. Usually works for me.

[fossil]

Tyres: I changed to the Dunlop Arrowmax Street Smart. It�s a road tyre but it is uncomparabely better on cold, wet tarmac and on wet grass than the Pirelli. I often ride on gravel, with the Dunlop I have trust in the bike.

A test in our magazine "Motorrad" showed the differences between the different tyres suitable for bikes like the V7 (old and new). There was a radial combination from Continental that was really good (but I fear the sizes we need are not available yet) and a range of diagonals that is close to another. In this the BT 45 is still good, the Michelin is very good on dry tarmac, the Dunlop is very good in the cold and on wet ground. By far the worst by a great margin are the Avon and - the Pirelli.

[Muzz]

I regularly remove it to add lube, using a large syringe, instead of adding the lube through the "filler" hole.  When I replace the vent, I use a new crush washer (w/rubber ring, part GU01528930) and torque it to 12 Nm.  That's always worked for me, it's never gotten loose or leaked, and never stripped any threads.

My goodness me! I am impressed.

Remove, soak in degreaser, fill box with syringe using the "fill" hole to indicate full, blow out vent with compressed air, replace. Never done a crush washer, never done a torque, I don't use gorilla force.

[sib]

My goodness me! I am impressed.

Remove, soak in degreaser, fill box with syringe using the "fill" hole to indicate full, blow out vent with compressed air, replace. Never done a crush washer, never done a torque, I don't use gorilla force.

Yes, except that instead of using the "fill" hole to indicate full, I use the syringe to add exactly (or close to) the spec amount of 170 ml.  To avoid overfilling due to incomplete draining of the previous oil (see another recent contentious thread here), I drain the oil hot and let it drain overnight.  I also remove the vent while it's draining to prevent airlock, which could hamper draining.

[sign216]

I wrote a guide on doing the spline lube, which involves a rear tire change.  It's for the previous V7, but there still may be some value in it for you.  Double click on the photos to open the text below.

Joe

https://www.flickr.com/photos/sign216/albums/72157625569987011

[Toecutter]

Thanks, gents.

Want to add:

If you have a Stone they are the only tubeless dual-sport tires that fit the V7 without doing something special like mounting a rear tire on the front (reversed).

The Scorpion Trail IIs come in the right size, but I haven't found much "testimony" online.

[Muzz]

Yes, except that instead of using the "fill" hole to indicate full, I use the syringe to add exactly (or close to) the spec amount of 170 ml. 

I must say that on the very first fill I did that after leaving it to completely drain. On mine the oil just started to flow out of the fill hole with the 170mls.

I gather that on some bikes that the amount can vary somewhat.

[redhawk47]

Thanks, gents.

Want to add:


The Scorpion Trail IIs come in the right size, but I haven't found much "testimony" online.

Yes, I forgot them. They are rated 90/10 and I agree with that rating. I ran them on my Stelvio; good tires, but the front cupped about half way thru the rear's life.
I've been looking at 80/20s. Avon calls their Trailrider a 90/10 but it looks like a 80/20 to me - thread depth and sipe width. Plus a "glowing review" from Earth-Roamers.

[Yukonica]

Yes, I forgot them. They are rated 90/10 and I agree with that rating. I ran them on my Stelvio; good tires, but the front cupped about half way thru the rear's life.
I've been looking at 80/20s. Avon calls their Trailrider a 90/10 but it looks like a 80/20 to me - thread depth and sipe width. Plus a "glowing review" from Earth-Roamers.

Just about to mount a set of Scorpions that are sitting in my shop. The cupping news is a bit of a concern. Was cupping possibly due to slightly 'off' air pressure?.... I check once a week. When I was running Pirelli I wasted a rear tire by being lazy.
BT's have been the best value: $$ per km so far for the road conditions here. Hoping for the same with the Scorpion Tails.

[alanp]

has anyone tried the Michelin Anakee on a V7?  I have heard good things in general. 

[SeanF]

I have a set of Anakees on my v7 Special & like them just fine. Not many miles yet, but "so far, so good." I had a set on a Wee Strom and those tires seemed to last forever.
[I don't think I've seen Anakees in 18" fronts. I have a tubeless 19" front rim on my v7, so I have lots of "dual-sporty" tire options.]