Rear Wheel V7iii

[Kiwi_Roy]

I took the rear wheel off my V7iii Special for the first time today, Im sure glad I didn't have to do this on the side of the road.
The axle bolt was super tight, no way I could budge it with the wimpy wrench in the tool kit.
Have to remove the LH muffler to let the bolt out. When I got the axle out the pucks fell out and the wheel jammed between the rear drive and the LH suspension so I removed the bottom bolt to let it swing out of the way.
I can see this is going to be a real problem to get back in.
Looking at the pucks at first it appears they plug into holes in the wheel but the rubber pins don't line up, what is the secret in getting these re-installed?

[Dirk_S]

Do you have the manual downloaded? In it you can see that each rubber drive cushing actually straddles over a hub rib, and the drive spline fits in between two cushings.





I sometimes use a little grease to help them stick in the hub, but I don’t find  I always have to.

The V7III Stone and Special have similar rear mudguards as previous models. They do stick down far enough to make it a bit cumbersome to work the wheel out, but if you have a center stand, it’s not too bad, especially if you can get the stand up on top of a block of wood for extra lift.just work it in. Regardless, the wheel is challenging enough that I chose to purchase the polished aluminum mudguards that cut off much higher along with a high exhaust that channels both pipes to the right side, which should make changing rear tires a breeze.

Could consider chopping the rear up a tad. I did, but then I got sucked into desiring metal fenders again for some reason.

[Kiwi_Roy]

The manual eh! real men don't read manuals lol
Yes I can see how they go in but if you look inside the wheel there is a hole that seems to match a peg on the cushing except there's no way it will line up.
Do you find you have to remove the LH suspension strut, the brake disk hits on it so you cant get the wheel past the cush drive forks.
Yes I have the longer fenders but I have a motorcycle lift that gets it high enough, not sure what I would do on the road though that's why I'm doing away with the tubes.
Grease on the cush's I was thinking of using some sealant to make a permanent fix.

[sign216]

I wrote a guide for the early V7s on rear wheel removal for spline lube.  it might have some tips.  Double click on the photos to get the text.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/sign216/albums/72157625569987011 

[usedtobefast]

For my v7 iii Racer, for removal, I pulled off the left side exhaust muffler/silencer/slip-on, took off the left side shock (pulled it off, set it aside), and the removal all went well.

For reinstall, I cleaned up the hub where the rubber blocks go, cleaned up the tang parts on the rear differential, and cleaned the rubber blocks with silicone spray.  Put all the rubber parts in the wheel hub, and fit it onto the differential ... pushed and wiggled that as far right as it would go ... everything was very clean and slippery so it went together well.  Then put the brake caliper and mount in place and slid in the axle. 

And yes, a flat on the road would be a pain!!! 

[Rich A]

If you have a center stand, secure it to the front wheel with a tie down or rope or something so it doesn't fold up. Then put a 1 x 4 under the left leg and a 2 x 4 under the right leg (you may want to do the right leg in two steps). That will tilt the bike to the left, and so, you will have to tilt the wheel to the left a bit when installing it. That will help keep the pucks from falling out. I sat to the right of the bike and straddled the wheel as I lifted the wheel into place, using my knees to help get it in position. You can see how the pucks are aligned when seated in this position.

You obviously want to make double sure the bike is secure before putting your legs under it.

PITA job.

Rich A

[malik]

I've fixed flat tyres at the side of the road several times now. The more practice you have, the less daunting it gets, not always easier though. Sometimes it still gets to be a saga to keep those rubbers in. Sometimes the hub doesn't slip onto the final drive, until you've had a couple of drinks, but usually it does. Those pimples on the cush rubbers don't really locate into those holes at all. Perhaps they are there to catch the rubber when in motion. It often helps if the right side is higher than the left. If I have access to them, I put a block of 2x4 under the left leg of the centrestand, and say, 3x4 under the right (4x4 makes it a little unstable). That way the wheel gets past the mudguard. Yes, the left muffler comes off, and the left lower shock bolt. I tie the shock up to the rear rack so the tyre can get past it. I've been told that if any of the cush rubbers are broken, it's best to replace the whole set. Not a cheap exercise.

While you are there, it is a good idea to remove the final drive (being careful to not let the swingarm fall hard - can bend/break the gear linkage rod, at least on the earlier V7s) and grease the drive shaft pinions. Sometimes, though, it's just a bit too much extra work. Slack of me.

Ah, the joys of Italian machinery.

[Kiwi_Roy]

OK it seems what I went through is pretty much par for the course, thanks for the tips.

Sign216, this is Excellent, all the information required in one package.
I wasn't planning on doing the splines but I would be stupid not to, I have the Honda lube.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/sign216/albums/72157625569987011  Click on the pictures to get the text.

[greer]

Yes Joe, thanks again for that write up.  As I said earlier, it seems like the bike was built around the rear wheel.

Sarah

[Vagrant]

FWIW, I clean up the hub and rubbers then spray both with a 3M spray glue, let it sit 1 minute for permanent glue job (it's not) then let the air out of tire, spray the hubs and rubbers with silicone spray and they pop right together. supposedly they fixed the design on the V85.

[sign216]

Thank you Roy and Greer for the recognition.

As they say; "making mechanics out of riders."

[Roebling3]

I've not cussed but one chain drive. I've cussed most all shafties I've owned - and choose not to tolerate tubes/wire wheels, but still have two. The big grin is the little bugger with a ss fork & sssa. If it wasn't for my good luck I'd have to ride hard rubber tires, or stay home.  R3~

[Kiwi_Roy]

Following sign216's suggestion I pulled the rear end apart, I think 12,000 KM or first tire change is about right to lube the shaft.
To get the shaft out you have to remove the swingers but it's quite easy to do if you are this far already.
Im going to use Honda shaft lube, it's 60% Moly but I'm sure anything with moly in would be ok.

[sign216]

Roy,
Following your suggestion I'll do that to my bike this winter, and incorporate it into my tutorial.

Sorry that this tutorial, unlike my others, has no attention getting assistants.
Joe

[nursed]

I have a V7iii special and I'm getting ready to change the tires. Reading forum posts and the tutorial gives me lots of good advice with the option of taking off the drive box with the rear wheel and lubing the splines, etc.

My question is this. I've changed the wheels on my Yamaha shaft drive bike and it was much easier to remove the rear wheel if I took off the rear fender first -- it just gave me a better view to line things up and A LOT more room to roll the wheel straight back. Has anyone tried this with the V7iii or variants?  Is there a reason not to give it a try? I have the Stein Deise lift to get the rear wheel off the ground but it seems like it is going to be a pain and I don't mind pulling a few more bolts to give myself more room to work.

Wiser minds, tell me why this is a dumb idea....

[jrt]

Trust me, you don't want to remove the rear fender if you don't have to.  It doesn't give you any more room, and it is a PIA to put back properly.

To reinstall the rear wheel, it aint difficult.  Let the air out of the tire, then use a 'quick grip' clamp to mash the tire- it slips right though the fingers on the cush drive.  Clean up the cush drive tire and fingers sides, then apply some silicone (glue or sealant) to the tire side and install the rubbers.  Let it dry.  Spray the rubbers with olive oil (ok, WD40 or any lubricant) and the wheel will slip right onto the cush drive- no problems.  Then use the quick grip clamp to hold/steady the wheel in the drive while you reinsert the axle and spacers.  Pay attention to the orientation of the spacers!  Oh- and the rear brake holder as well.  I guess I think of that as part of the spacers.

[Kev m]

Actually the rear fender is really easy to take off some V7III models (the ones with the short fenders and the sub-frame for the taillight). But I agree it doesn't help much, especially if you have the sub frame.

Personally I don't think rear wheel removal is very tricky on these anyway, but a lift (and especially ones with a drop out plate) make it easier. Still I've done it on a centerstand too in the past.