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Tank Prep for Paint - Sandblast or leave some paint?

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Groover:
If you are prepping a not-so-bad tank to be painted with just a few chips, and on it's on what will be 3rd paint job including factory color, would you sandblast it or sand down the paint/factory paint down enough to get a good paint job (so it leaves the factory anticorrosion layer in place).

If sandblasting, would you use something like this to keep if from rusting before the paint job?


http://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-afterblast.html?fee=7&fep=5192&adpos=1o1&creative=61491489540&device=c&matchtype=&network=g&SRCCODE=GA220010&gclid=CO-ivOrBgsQCFQyEaQodY68AMg

Is there an equivalent that can be purchased at a regular Wal-Mart type store?

Thanks for the assistance.

jomarti3:
I suggest wet sanding down to original primer if it is intact.  Feather ( sand out uneven surface) areas of chipped paint so they are smooth.  Reprime any bare metal areas.

RinkRat II:
Media blasting is better than sandblasting thin metal for less distortion. Check your yellow pages for a shop that does it. A good automotive primer  of two or three coats wet sanded down to 600 grit and your good to go. Already two coats on there is a little thick for a quality repaint . IMHO ~; Good Luck

    Paul :BEER:

Chuck in Indiana:
Sand it..

Dimples:

It's very important that you clean the surface of contaminates--wax, silicone, etc. (don't grind them in). There are products for this first step.

Then wet sand it (by hand). Sequence with 150, 180, 220 grit. Then spray primer. Wet sand again, this time sequence with 320, 400, 600 grit (if you go through the primer re-coat). Then spray color (lay decals) and clear coat.

There's additional technique required for decals under clear coats. For professional results (base coat/clear coat) you should really take it to a pro. You might actually save money in the long run. A catalyzed clear coat will resist fuel spills.

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