Author Topic: Calvin brain trust, please school me (Read 63884 times)

rocker59 · « **Reply #90 on:** March 22, 2015, 01:24:34 PM »

Quote from: mtiberio on March 22, 2015, 01:22:01 PM

130/70 rear tire is a big win, lowers gearing 1/2 way to 7:33 and lowers rear of bike. Now I want to re-calibrate speedo. Anyone know how many teeth on stock speedo gear?

Have you checked it with a GPS, yet? It may be more accurate, now.

mtiberio · « **Reply #91 on:** March 22, 2015, 01:33:07 PM »

Got gps speedo app for Iphone. Speedo shows 80 at true 70. Tire should have given me 7% too high. Stock it must have been 5% optimistic. I have an 11 tooth in my spares. If stock is 10, the 11 would get me close.

rocker59 · « **Reply #92 on:** March 22, 2015, 01:35:18 PM »

Quote from: mtiberio on March 22, 2015, 01:33:07 PM

Got gps speedo app for Iphone. Speedo shows 80 at true 70. Tire should have given me 7% too high. Stock it must have been 5% optimistic. I have an 11 tooth in my spares. If stock is 10, the 11 would get me close.

Yeah. I think that'd do it.

mtiberio · « **Reply #93 on:** March 22, 2015, 03:32:42 PM »

If...

Wildguzzi.com · « **Reply #93 on:** March 22, 2015, 03:32:42 PM »

Greg Field · « **Reply #94 on:** March 22, 2015, 04:30:03 PM »

Quote from: mtiberio on March 22, 2015, 01:33:07 PM

Got gps speedo app for Iphone. Speedo shows 80 at true 70. Tire should have given me 7% too high. Stock it must have been 5% optimistic. I have an 11 tooth in my spares. If stock is 10, the 11 would get me close.

ITI speedo, right?

If so, here's one way to re-cal those speedos. You can get them pretty much dead-on, if you do it right. Be sure to have that yellow metal cover in place when spinning the speedo.

http://wildguzzi.com/forum/index.php?topic=17019.0

Wayne Orwig · « **Reply #95 on:** March 22, 2015, 04:40:52 PM »

Quote from: mtiberio on March 22, 2015, 01:33:07 PM

I have an 11 tooth in my spares. If stock is 10, the 11 would get me close.

I need to double check my records. I thing my 2004 was 9 tooth and I went to 10 tooth when I changed to the 7/33 gears. Plus I tweaked it as Greg points out.
I think they stuck with the same speedo gearing since then.

Kiwi Dave · « **Reply #96 on:** March 23, 2015, 12:13:06 AM »

Quote from: mtiberio on March 19, 2015, 05:01:05 PM

Got my 13" progressive shocks with 105/150# springs from Harpers today. Stock length is 14 3/16". Now I'm flatfooted. Initial 10 mile ride and results are good. Mounting my low profile tires this weekend, will report on those later.

Are you gonna cut down your center stand, or just develop strong muscules to use it?

mtiberio · « **Reply #97 on:** March 23, 2015, 08:54:28 AM »

I remove the centerstands on all my bikes, too much weight for what? I keep them around the shop for work stands. 1" plank under the rear tire will help lifting...

Jerryd · « **Reply #98 on:** March 23, 2015, 11:38:19 AM »

Quote from: mtiberio on March 23, 2015, 08:54:28 AM

I remove the centerstands on all my bikes, too much weight for what? I keep them around the shop for work stands. 1" plank under the rear tire will help lifting...

Too much weight from a centerstand?

mtiberio · « **Reply #99 on:** March 23, 2015, 01:04:17 PM »

Quote from: Jerryd on March 23, 2015, 11:38:19 AM

Too much weight from a centerstand?

It all adds up, and yes a centerstand is a lot of unecessary weight.

mtiberio · « **Reply #100 on:** March 23, 2015, 01:07:42 PM »

Changed my tires this past weekend. Seems the original Metzlers (2009 bike, tires have date codes of 0508 front and 2008 rear) had Pirelli tubes, and no rim strips to speak of, but just some whiteish tape.

Does that match anyone's experience. Does this sound at all unreasonable or impossible if these are the original tires?

Sheepdog · « **Reply #101 on:** March 24, 2015, 08:53:31 AM »

Sometimes a side stand just isn't good enough...

Wayne Orwig · « **Reply #102 on:** March 24, 2015, 09:43:18 AM »

mtiberio · « **Reply #103 on:** March 24, 2015, 09:46:44 AM »

when sh*t gets that effed up, lack of a centerstand is the least of your worries...

Sheepdog · « **Reply #104 on:** March 24, 2015, 10:12:49 AM »

Flats happen...

Jerryd · « **Reply #105 on:** March 24, 2015, 10:27:11 AM »

Quote from: mtiberio on March 23, 2015, 01:04:17 PM

It all adds up, and yes a centerstand is a lot of unecessary weight.

Compared to some of the extra weight some Guzzi riders are carrying around their waist, a centerstand is negligible :BEER:

mtiberio · « **Reply #106 on:** March 24, 2015, 12:13:08 PM »

Quote from: Sheepdog on March 24, 2015, 10:12:49 AM

Flats happen...

=> tubeless???

Sheepdog · « **Reply #107 on:** March 24, 2015, 02:25:06 PM »

Small punctures can be repaired with the wheelset in situ (on both tubed and tubeless). However, anything worse (like a gash or a broken spoke) requires wheel removal. When I travel, particularly when I pass through remote locales, I like to be prepared to get out of trouble on my own...

mtiberio · « **Reply #108 on:** March 28, 2015, 06:25:11 PM »

I have the same goal, just a different worth factor I apply to the weight of things I bring.

Interesting, today I adjusted the valves, 3 of 4 were loose (I used .004" intake and .006" exhaust). Seems someone had painted not the TDC marks on the flywheel, but the flywheel to case indexing mark. This mark is even earlier than full advance right and consists of an arrow. When the motor is at TDC right ("D"), this arrow points at a small nub on the inside of the bell housing in a line with the center line of the right cylinder. Is is only visable with the tranny off, and exists to allow the flywheel to be indexed properly with no tranny hole to peer through. I always thought it was overkill as the center of the two right side bell housingh studs is a close enough approxomation to the center of the timing hole, that one could index the flywheel to the crank that way (or using the crank at TDC left and "S" TDC mark as well). Since these bikes have non-adjustable timing, I wonder if the valves had been adjusted to the wrong spot? Is the yellow paint on the arrow from the factory?

mtiberio · « **Reply #109 on:** March 28, 2015, 07:31:36 PM »

I need more schooling. Why does my FI bike have a choke lever, and what does it do?

Cam3512 · « **Reply #110 on:** March 28, 2015, 07:53:40 PM »

Quote from: mtiberio on March 28, 2015, 07:31:36 PM

I need more schooling. Why does my FI bike have a choke lever, and what does it do?

It's not a choke. It's just a "fast idle" lever, same as holding the throttle on. Lever cable opens the throttle for warm-up. That's it.

mtiberio · « **Reply #111 on:** March 28, 2015, 10:05:08 PM »

so if I can't hear it on, then it isn't on? I'm having a tough time figuring out how to set the cable slack. With cable free play set to something reasonable (1mm or 2mm), I need to pull the lever way past the detent for starting, and then it still wont idle while sitting on the detent. If it is just a fast idle, then I should be able to start the bike by holding the throttle open slightly, right? Then I could adjust the cable to let it idle while on the detent.

m

makarushka · « **Reply #112 on:** March 28, 2015, 10:23:17 PM »

The adjuster screw for the fast idle is located near the throttle cables cam between the throttle bodies, in the middle of the linkage, accessible from the RIGHT side of the bike. Take the right hand throttle body cover off and look -- you will see the slotted screw like pictured here (from http://www.bikeboy.org/tpssetting.html):

mtiberio · « **Reply #113 on:** March 29, 2015, 04:17:16 PM »

I picked up a tubeless wire wheel from a 98 EV even though folks say the conversion requires too many new parts to fit a calvin. It was stripped, no cush and no rotor. I pulled the cush drive and rubber from a 70's era tonti compatible Lester Mag, and all the parts fit the 98 EV wheel. The rubber donuts were the right size, the vaned spline plate fit perfect, the giant circlip fit perfect, and even the small circlip retaining tab and mounting screw. Without removing the stock rear wheel from the '09 calvin, I eyeballed the distance from the left side bearing to the rotor mounting flange, and at first blush, it appears to be the same as the 98 EV wheel. There is still plenty to go wrong yet, I know the CalVin has the extended spline piece on the rear drive, but when I had the wheel off last week (should have taken measurements), the dimensions on the spline side of the rear wheel looked "normal". So I read, that the interbearing spacers and rear drive spacers are different, but I wonder if the differences might cancel. Is all the fuss about closing the gap between the wheel hub and the rear drive? cosmetics? The calvin rim did have a bit of a gap filler cast into the hub (would have been located just outside the inner spoke ends in the picture below.

mtiberio · « **Reply #114 on:** March 29, 2015, 04:57:06 PM »

Wanted to be able to lift my guzzi with my parallelogram (Harley) lift. Problms with most guzzis is the oil pan is too far forward of the center of mass, you need a rearward support. I cut a piece of wood to fill the gap between the headers, behind the crossover. It presses up against the centerstand tabs/lower tranny mount. Looks good enough so far...

Now for the life of me I couldn't figure out why the right muffler was a good 3/4" or more lower at the end... Sure enough, the muffler hanger brackets are different lengths, and the long one has about 1/2" extra length and is on the right side. It may be off enough that I can re-drill the hole, not just ovalize it. Whats up with this... Common? parts bin swappage? I noticed the left side had an extension with a threaded spool that might have had a center stand stop, but that had no rubber, and came no where near the centerstand on my bike...

mtiberio · « **Reply #115 on:** April 01, 2015, 07:39:24 PM »

Figured out why the right muffler was lower than the left. the bracket was slotted, but not at the top at the bottom where the two studs hold it onto the muffler. easy fix...

mtiberio · « **Reply #116 on:** April 01, 2015, 07:46:47 PM »

Quote from: mtiberio on March 29, 2015, 04:17:16 PM

I picked up a tubeless wire wheel from a 98 EV even though folks say the conversion requires too many new parts to fit a calvin. It was stripped, no cush and no rotor. I pulled the cush drive and rubber from a 70's era tonti compatible Lester Mag, and all the parts fit the 98 EV wheel. The rubber donuts were the right size, the vaned spline plate fit perfect, the giant circlip fit perfect, and even the small circlip retaining tab and mounting screw. Without removing the stock rear wheel from the '09 calvin, I eyeballed the distance from the left side bearing to the rotor mounting flange, and at first blush, it appears to be the same as the 98 EV wheel. There is still plenty to go wrong yet, I know the CalVin has the extended spline piece on the rear drive, but when I had the wheel off last week (should have taken measurements), the dimensions on the spline side of the rear wheel looked "normal". So I read, that the interbearing spacers and rear drive spacers are different, but I wonder if the differences might cancel. Is all the fuss about closing the gap between the wheel hub and the rear drive? cosmetics? The calvin rim did have a bit of a gap filler cast into the hub (would have been located just outside the inner spoke ends in the picture below.

good news here, it looks like the 1998 Ev wheel is a direct bolt on to my 2009 CalVin. The rotor fits, the whole thing bolts into the bike, axle spaer is correct, the caliper is centered over the rotor, and the drive spline is fully engaged. The only gotcha is there is a gap between the hub and the rear drive. This is because the CalVin has the extended splice piece on its rear fdrive. Since I used to cut off the flanges from rear drive units when I raced, I can't see having this gap as an issue since the splines as I said are fully engaged.

harrytief · « **Reply #117 on:** April 02, 2015, 07:36:18 AM »

Excellent Mike. Glad it worked out.
Harry

mtiberio · « **Reply #118 on:** April 02, 2015, 12:20:12 PM »

While installing new shocks, and testing my tubeless wire wheel, I had the muffler off and as I reported earlier I could see where the right side muffler bracket had slotted holes at the muffler end. I'll get a picture of the bracket next time I'm into it, but I thought you'd like to see the result of moving the muffler all the way up the slots on the bracket:

compare to my picture from a few posts ago...

IMG_0970 by mtiberio, on Flickr

Cam3512 · « **Reply #119 on:** April 02, 2015, 12:30:10 PM »

Won't that gap between the hub and rear drive allow all sorts of road scum to get in there?

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Author Topic: Calvin brain trust, please school me (Read 63884 times)

Wildguzzi.com

makarushka