new vibration through right footpeg

[yackee]

I recently bought this tool to press the u-joint into the That along with a HarborFreight press made it an easy job.

Where did you buy the tool?

[blackcat]

Unfortunately it was the last one MG Cycle had and it only works with the older u-joints. Won't work on the newer u-joints as they are slightly larger.  If you go to This Old Tractor there is a thread on making a similar tool out of a PVC pipe.

[Chuck in Indiana]

Yeah it made a big mess! The mineral spirits got flown out of the inspection hole all over the driveway. My wife was like, "what's all that milk all over driveway?"

To make an even finer mess..  plug the slot that drains the bell housing. That way you can get a fair amount more mineral spirits in there before starting it and actuating the clutch a few times.

[Frenchfrog]

Unfortunately it was the last one MG Cycle had and it only works with the older u-joints. Won't work on the newer u-joints as they are slightly larger.  If you go to This Old Tractor there is a thread on making a similar tool out of a PVC pipe.

I've got a stainless sleeve which does exactly this...slightly too large to I put some cardboard in to take up the slack.Worked a treat some 60,000 miles ago !

[yackee]

I got the rear end off today. You guys weren't kidding, it's pretty easy! There was some first-time idiocy. I forgot to loosen the hose clamp on the rubber boot, and couldn't figure out why the swing arm wouldn't pull free. And I forgot to remove the forward bolt for the left side foot pegs, which interfere with with the removal process as well.

I was kind of shocked to see that the drive shaft isn't attached to anything. I had no idea it was just a slip-fit into teeth on the u-joint.

I don't see any obvious problems, but I went ahead and ordered a new u-joint and carrier bearing, and will replace the swing arm bearings as well. The old u-joint is very loose on one side, but it doesn't seem to have obviously excessive play. I have no idea what I'm doing of course, but there was definitely no obvious damage, metal flakes, etc.

The main hiccup is the carrier bearing. I got the blind bearing/slide hammer kit from Harbour Freight, and the bearing still doesn't move despite lots of hammering. Yes, I took off the circlip. I think I'll just take it to the local machine shop and also have them put the new bearing in.

Two questions:

- Do you all recommend replacing anything else while I am in this far? I am not planning on crabbing the frame to do the clutch, but I was wondering about whether it's recommended to preventively change the two accessible transmission seals (one in the final drive, one on the output shaft)? I found a bit of oil in the output shaft area. Is that normal? The rear drive seems to be fine, no obvious leaking.
- I read about putting moly "grease" on the shaft splines before reassembly. Should I grease the new u-joint to? How is it lubricated?

[bmc5733946]

I usually drive the carrier bearing out from the rear of the swing arm, long 1/2 drive extension and a socket that fits throught the swing arm. I have been battering tools like this for a very long time I'm not proud of the misuse but like to get the job done. YMMV

Brian

[Don G]

Sometimes the bearing can be a real Bastard to get out, I have resorted a number of times to welding a half inch drive socket to the inner race, put a 12-inch extension in to beat on.  DonG

[chuck peterson]

“the old ujoint was loose on one side ..”

Should be zero play..probably was getting ready to begin to about to be a grenade

[Chuck in Indiana]

“the old ujoint was loose on one side ..”

Should be zero play..probably was getting ready to begin to about to be a grenade

This. And you might rethink not looking at the clutch if it's been slipping. It's really no big deal.

[smdl]

This. And you might rethink not looking at the clutch if it's been slipping. It's really no big deal.

Chuck's right (as usual)  .  If you're this far in, definitely go the rest of the way and take care of the clutch.  You'll kick yourself if you need to go through everything again. 

Also, if you do decide to pull the gearbox, here's a guide with a section about addressing things inside the bellhousing.  It's from the loopframe section, but I think that much of the info will still be relevant.

https://www.thisoldtractor.com/moto_guzzi_loopframe_engine_out__check_these_things.html

Cheers,
Shaun

[mtiberio]

heat gun does wonders for removing the carrier bearing

[Antietam Classic Cycle]

The main hiccup is the carrier bearing. I got the blind bearing/slide hammer kit from Harbour Freight, and the bearing still doesn't move despite lots of hammering. Yes, I took off the circlip. I think I'll just take it to the local machine shop and also have them put the new bearing in.

Two questions:

- Do you all recommend replacing anything else while I am in this far? I am not planning on crabbing the frame to do the clutch, but I was wondering about whether it's recommended to preventively change the two accessible transmission seals (one in the final drive, one on the output shaft)? I found a bit of oil in the output shaft area. Is that normal? The rear drive seems to be fine, no obvious leaking.
- I read about putting moly "grease" on the shaft splines before reassembly. Should I grease the new u-joint to? How is it lubricated?

I put the largest collet from my blind bearing puller in the bearing, stick a 1" diameter rod in from the rear drive end, and then use the hydraulic press to remove the bearing. I machined a 6061 slug into a tool for installing the new one without damage.

About the bearing... use the best quality bearing you can find - SKF, FAG, Nachi, Koyo, etc. I do not recommend the (Russian, Chinese?) bearing sold by some parts retailers. Doesn't hurt to use a C3 clearance bearing either.

I grease all the splines with Wurth SIG 3000. The u-joint is "permanently sealed" and is already greased. 

[yackee]

Chuck's right (as usual)  .  If you're this far in, definitely go the rest of the way and take care of the clutch.  You'll kick yourself if you need to go through everything again. 

Also, if you do decide to pull the gearbox, here's a guide with a section about addressing things inside the bellhousing.  It's from the loopframe section, but I think that much of the info will still be relevant.

https://www.thisoldtractor.com/moto_guzzi_loopframe_engine_out__check_these_things.html

Cheers,
Shaun

OK you guys convinced me. I ordered the RAM clutch from MG Cycle and some other bits, and spent the afternoon tearing the bike further down. I am going to use this as an opportunity to reinstall the floorboards that I removed 15 years ago too, since it's pretty easy now to yank the lower frame rails. The bike disassembles pretty easily. Hopefully it will be just as easy putting it back together (+:.

[n3303j]

I had asked MG Cycle about the RAM clutch a few years back. They said it was significantly lighter then the stock unit on my T3. It would be suitable if driven in a "sporty" manner but I would be giving up my nice solid idle at published RPM. I really like the stock performance so I rebuilt the original clutch.

[glenm64]

When I changed the clutch in mine the new clutch plates had bigger internal teeth so I had to change the gearbox clutch hub to suit.
If the clutch is slipping and you have it all apart, I would change the rear main seal. If there's oil causing slippage then its either from the gearbox input or rear main. With the box out take the clutch hub off and change the seal and by memory there's an o ring on the shaft behind the hub. Very easy to do, just get the socket for the slotted lock nut to avoid butchering it with a chisel. I would also change the gasket on the engine breather tube flange.
Heres a useful gearbox manual for reference from the This Old Tractor site if needed.
https://www.thisoldtractor.com/guzzitech.dk/pdf/gearbox-rebuilding-john-noble_print.pdf


 

[nc43bsa]

I recently bought this tool to press the u-joint into the carrier bearing.  That along with a HarborFreight press made it an easy job.

I made a similar tool out of PVC pipe.  It worked fine after I froze the U-joint and gently heated the bearing with a heat gun on the lowest setting.

[yackee]

Just to verify, I'm a bit paranoid about this, to take out the bell housing, I *don't* take off the "cover" but rather undo the bolts closest to the engine case, and then the whole bell housing will come off in one bit, and stay together? I don't want to have to get into the transmission if I don't have to. I read the long tutorial on ThisOldTractor about rebuilding the transmission, which I don't think I need to do or don't want to do,, but I'm still not sure--if I pull the bell housing without removing the "cover" can I just remove, set to the side, and then re-fit once the new clutch is in?

[n3303j]

Just to verify, I'm a bit paranoid about this, to take out the bell housing, I *don't* take off the "cover" but rather undo the bolts closest to the engine case, and then the whole bell housing will come off in one bit, and stay together? I don't want to have to get into the transmission if I don't have to. I read the long tutorial on ThisOldTractor about rebuilding the transmission, which I don't think I need to do or don't want to do,, but I'm still not sure--if I pull the bell housing without removing the "cover" can I just remove, set to the side, and then re-fit once the new clutch is in?

No reason to he afraid of the transmission. If you pull the input spline nut and coupling the whole transmission internals can be dropped on the bench on its back cover completely assembled. Then its a matter of photo and disassemble in steps you are comfortable with and replace anything that qualifies as worn or damaged. Put it all back together on the back cover and drop the housing on (add the detent).
But undoing the forward set of fasteners will remove the whole transmission without any transmission changes, exposures, disturbances etc. It is located by two dowels and might stick a bit.

[smdl]

To remove the gearbox, just remove the bellhousing mounting nuts right next to the engine.  Once you have the gearbox on the bench, you can work on the hub inside the bellhousing.  No need to completely disassemble the gearbox.

Cheers,
Shaun

[Scout63]

I wouldn’t dig into a good operating gearbox.  Rear main seal, clutch, (make sure the clutch plates you buy match your clutch hub, or buy a complete kit from MG Cycle), throw out bearing and pushrod seals are all great candidates for replacement while you are in there. Don’t forget new flywheel and pressure plate bolts.

[John A]

If you have the flywheel off which you may not, but if you do, clean the rear camshaft plug and put a good sealant over it. Clean it like you are going to paint it and use your favorite two part sealant. They can start to seep as they age.