General Category > General Discussion
2V Norge valve adjustment
Larry_77084:
--- Quote from: Vasco DG on March 17, 2015, 11:22:26 PM ---The pain in the arse with the early Norges is the fragility and odd assembly of the fairings. You have to pull the belly pan and lowers from memory and then you can lift the tank a bit and get the covers off.
On the gasket issue? Have you tried the Valpolini gaskets? The importer here is now bringing these in in stead of the factory ones due to repeated failures. I can't common on their efficacy as I've only just got a couple of sets in, haven't even opened the box to look at 'em yet.
Pete
--- End quote ---
You have a link for those gaskets??
I didn't think about the body work, most of the time I take out the rearmost screw on the panel, where it attaches to the tank, then the 2 screws on the rearmost part of the dash fairing and with a long 1/4 extension I can get to the rear 2 screws by lifting the panel ever so slightly.
Scott of the Sahara:
there is no need to remove any of the lower fairing. I bought a long t handle allen wrench with a ball end and it makes the job much easier to remove those high valve cover bolts.
Eric:
I'll go out today and get a long handle hex wrench. I have a couple of gaskets on the shelf from a long time ago. Do some of you use a gasket sealant? I appreciate all the help. I just haven't done this in a while and it's surprising how intimidating these things can get, especially if you have no skills to trade. I teach philosophy, for goodness sake. I can tell you how Guzzi design has evolved from early Renaissance Humanism if you're interested but, normally, that only makes me boring at parties.
guzzi ride:
No sealant needed...install dry to valve cover side and finger some grease (waterproof) to the head side.
Bill Hagan:
--- Quote from: Eric on March 18, 2015, 09:16:58 AM ---I'll go out today and get a long handle hex wrench. I have a couple of gaskets on the shelf from a long time ago. Do some of you use a gasket sealant? I appreciate all the help. I just haven't done this in a while and it's surprising how intimidating these things can get, especially if you have no skills to trade. I teach philosophy, for goodness sake. I can tell you how Guzzi design has evolved from early Renaissance Humanism if you're interested but, normally, that only makes me boring at parties.
--- End quote ---
Cool.
My boutique academic niche is the development of military law, especially in the Renaissance. That might explain our mutual uneasiness with periodic moto-maintenance that comes so easily to others. But, most of those wrenching smartypants would have difficulty with an essay question on the Cinquecento (other than the Fiat :D) Granted, not much call for that 16th century arcanity, but it comes in handy now and then, too,. ;D
Moreover, most printed and on-line resources simply don’t reach the level of wrenching ignorance I am capable of displaying. They launch off by telling you, e.g., how to adjust valves with paint-by-numbers instruction … but you must always remember that these are written by wrenching geeks for wrenching geeks, and thus in going from Step 4 to Step 5, they leave out the essential Step 4.5. Dave Richardson recognized this problem in his classic work, "Guzziology,” where he writes words to the effect that he assumes you know which end of a screwdriver to use. Well, that is about the level of my expertise, and after that, like a 15th century Italian sailor, it’s all Terra and Mare Incognito. Besides, it also depends what you are trying to do with said screwdriver.
Oh, before I forget, after adjusting the valves and deciding to see if the beast will start (or prove you didn’t really find TDC via D or S or whatever when you thought you did), take the BF ½-inch drive and VFH 24mm socket off the the nut on the alternator you used to find (or think you found) TDC and those elusive letters. It gets very loud and exciting if you don’t. BTDT. That’s how I know.
And, more recently, I had a moment of near panic. when, in starting the process of finding TDC, I could not get the1/2 inch driver to move the crankshaft. At all. Oh, no! The engine’s seized. What?
Well, after I calmed down and stared at the beast a bit, I realized what was wrong … and knew this was the sort of thing that never happens to the real wrenches here.
I have a lift, so, to do much of the work on the Norge, I don’t use the center stand. Yup. The Norge was in gear with the rear wheel on the lift. Doh.
Back to the merits of valve adjustments. I have fiddled around with various approaches to those fasteners at the top of the Norge's valve covers that are hard to get to because of the fairing and tank.
I actually think the best fix -- which I am doing as soon as I get back home from Atlanta -- is to replace those top two "fancy" rounded-top bolts with two "ordinary" socket-head types. Especially with ball-end tools, should be harder to round those out. And, because of the Norge’s tupperware, they are invisible, anyway.
And, after several other experiments, I also just got in this, which has, in conjunction with a "wobble-end" extension, made it much easier to get to those pesky hidden guys.
Finally, to avoid the near-inevitable results hamfistedness, I have — with the exception of those instances that require a breaker bar to undo and torque-wrench tightness (along with later a breaker bar to undo), e.g., mounting the wheels — gone almost exclusively to short-handled ¼ inch ratchet drivers. I can “feel” what’s needed much easier without risking the sad face that comes with “just a bit more."
Best,
Bill
Navigation
[0] Message Index
[#] Next page
[*] Previous page
Go to full version