General Category > Bike Builds, Rebuilds And Restorations Only
1979 1000 SP project
Brilig:
--- Quote from: Scout63 on April 05, 2020, 06:55:46 PM ---Thanks for posting pics and a build thread. Your bike has lovely bones and a good long history of your ownership. I look forward to seeing your progress.
--- End quote ---
Thanks for the positive comments from you, Radguzzi, and Ozarquebus. The more time I spend looking at other peoples work the more I learn so I will be taking my time to be sure and get this right. I learned about ACF-50 by watching your build. I had been wondering how to protect the aluminum after vapor honing.
I was looking at your photos and it appears there is a large hole in one leg of your center stand. Was the steel rotted?
This is the BMW fairing I had on the bike. I like the look of the bike both with it and without it so I may try to engineer a way to put it on and off easily. It also gives me a place for my oil pressure gauge. I'm a big fan of oil gauges. I learned the hard way that you can learn a lot about the condition of your engine if you know how to interpret the movements of the gauge. Better than just a red light indicating "GAME OVER".
Speaking of oil pressure, this is a picture of the innards of a BUB oil sump with external oil filter. The BUB came on the bike and though I probably wouldn't go looking for one I'll stick with it because I never had any problems with it. There is some talk that they can result in low oil pressure and the hoses are prone to rupture.
I always had oil pressure with the BUB that was as high as I prefer. Any higher and I would have dropped the weight of the oil to reduce pressure. Oil pressure too high can reduce flow and cause insufficient lubrication as well as put stress on oil seals.
These hoses are 3/8 ID fuel injection hose. They are over thirty years old and still in great shape though I will replace them.
The pandemic has me out of work for at least the next couple of weeks so this could be a minimalist project to get the bike back on the road and do a more extensive rebuild next time around. The machine has 41,000 miles on the clock so I think at the very least I should pop the front cover and check the timing chain tensioner.
If anyone has any suggestions for things to definitely check before getting back on the road after twenty years in storage I'd love to hear them. I was ready to toss the brake lines but now I'm looking at them and wondering about using them...crazy?
Brilig:
I removed the alternator and timing cover to check the condition of the chain tensioner. Everything looks to be in good shape but there is a 1/4" plus gap between the tensioner and the chain. The block on the tensioner shows no sign of wear and the teeth on the sprockets don't appear to be worn. I will adjust the tensioner and close it up.
Just an FYI. The Haynes manual suggests using a 2-1/4" x 3/16" rod to pop the rotor off the tapered shaft. I tried that and the rod flared and bent with only slight pressure. I was lucky to be able to retrieve it. I then tried a 2-1/4" x 1/4" Titanium rod with good results.
rutgery:
Cool thread, I'm looking forward to seeing the bike on the road again!
As for the timing chain tensioner, I'd definitely replace it with a bow type (valtec) tensioner as these last way longer than the rubber block and are very cheap. I've seen multiple cases worn as the chain starts slapping around. If there's any doubt about the brake lines I'd replace them too, but to be honest, I've just replaced the original ones on my G5 (40 years old) with steel braided lines but I don't really notice that much difference.
The rubber oil feed lines towards the heads suddenly and without warning burst when driving last year (was lucky not to slide off the road), I'd replace them too if I'd known this could happen so suddenly.
Does your bike have nikasil cylinders? If steel, I'd at least check the surface finishes and ring gaps.
Testarossa:
Replacing the rubber chain-tensioner is a must. Otherwise rubber dust migrates through the oil. Check the oil filter to see if it's loaded up with rubber.
JayDee24ca:
Hi Mark that's a great looking SP, you're going to love getting back in the saddle on the old girl. As to the Bub oil pan, my personal preference would be to toss it and get used to dropping the pan to change filters every second oil change.
Much of that preference is based on my own experience with the Bub pan. I had one on a 76 Convert 40 odd years ago. I also put a lot of trust in an Stewart Warner oil pressure I installed, just like yourself. That dadblasted Bub sump would drastically lose oil pressure momentarily (like drop down to 5psi) when the oil was hot and I was on the highway. It recovered as soon as I let go the throttle, but it meant I had keep a constant watch on the gauge. Eventually I ditched the pan and went back to original. I did swap out hoses, more than once, but the problem stuck. I know that I did the engine no good with those sudden drops in pressure.
Ever since those younger days I have come to look upon the ritual of dropping the pan, on all my guzzis, as a good thing, an opportunity to check things out inside the box. Its your choice of course, but that was my experience with the Bub pan.
Cheers, and have fun with the resurrection!
John D.
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