2015 v7 Oil Breather Issues - Not overfill

[poppe]

Hey all,

I was hoping I could get some help trying to resolve an issue I'm having with my 2015 v7 - I am trying to fix this myself and start learning my bike a little bit, but I'm pretty lost, and hope some of the group could give me some guidance.

TLDR: Oil in breather box (liquid), oil on breather pipe and by pass pipe (thick and coagulated) all running to right head, right exhaust header is bluer than left.



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I'm having oil in my breather box that is making its way into my intake. Originally thought it was from overfilling. I was topping the bike off every 1,000 miles due to the red oil light coming on and the oil level being non existent on the dipstick.

The first time this happened, oil was all over my spark plugs, all over my intake, and was making the bike really terribly. It was also causing the bike to idle issues where the bike would not properly idle and sometimes sit at 2500 rpm. I replaced the valve cover gasket which seemed to have been unseated, cleaned everything up, replaced spark plugs and the bike ran great for about 1500 miles (and 1 year almost to date). After 500 miles the bike started to get the same power stall / choke issue at 4500 rpm, and so I had the fuel pump replaced thinking it was swollen (it was). The bike ran amazing then for another 250 miles.

Around the 250 mark, I had an oil change done and the bike ran beautifully still.

Then one day while riding on a 20 mile ride, the check engine light came on for roughly 10 seconds. Bike had a few moments of power stall but nothing like before.

Here is where the problem comes in:

A week later I went on a 150 mile ride (75 miles there and 75 miles back). Bike ran great there but had the check engine light come on for a split second and then turned off. When we were leaving the event, the bike turned on, warmed up and we headed out. After 5 minutes of riding we stopped to discuss something. 2 minutes of the bike sat. I went to fire it up, and it wouldn't fire up - it just kept turning and turning. Paused. Tried again, nothing. I then let it sit and the bike finally turned over but sounded awful like it was choking and black smoke poured out of the exhaust (this happened the first time I had this oil air box issue too). I had to hold open the throttle to keep the bike working for about 2 minutes and then it ran fine.

On the drive home the bike ran great. The check engine light came on for a split second again, but the bike was running better than it had in a long time. When I stopped at my friends house to look, we saw oil in the box, oil all over the breather pipe from box to head, and on that same head, the exhaust header was a darker blue.

I've attached pictures, but does anyone have any guidance on where to even start with looking for issues? I have a fantastic mechanic but I'm trying to save some money (tooth issue needs to be taken care of first ha).

Thanks!

Pictures below:

[poppe]

Hey all,

I was hoping I could get some help trying to resolve an issue I'm having with my 2015 v7 - I am trying to fix this myself and start learning my bike a little bit, but I'm pretty lost, and hope some of the group could give me some guidance.

TLDR: Oil in breather box (liquid), oil on breather pipe and by pass pipe (thick and coagulated) all running to right head, right exhaust header is bluer than left.



--

I'm having oil in my breather box that is making its way into my intake. Originally thought it was from overfilling. I was topping the bike off every 1,000 miles due to the red oil light coming on and the oil level being non existent on the dipstick.

The first time this happened, oil was all over my spark plugs, all over my intake, and was making the bike really terribly. It was also causing the bike to idle issues where the bike would not properly idle and sometimes sit at 2500 rpm. I replaced the valve cover gasket which seemed to have been unseated, cleaned everything up, replaced spark plugs and the bike ran great for about 1500 miles (and 1 year almost to date). After 500 miles the bike started to get the same power stall / choke issue at 4500 rpm, and so I had the fuel pump replaced thinking it was swollen (it was). The bike ran amazing then for another 250 miles.

Around the 250 mark, I had an oil change done and the bike ran beautifully still.

Then one day while riding on a 20 mile ride, the check engine light came on for roughly 10 seconds. Bike had a few moments of power stall but nothing like before.

Here is where the problem comes in:

A week later I went on a 150 mile ride (75 miles there and 75 miles back). Bike ran great there but had the check engine light come on for a split second and then turned off. When we were leaving the event, the bike turned on, warmed up and we headed out. After 5 minutes of riding we stopped to discuss something. 2 minutes of the bike sat. I went to fire it up, and it wouldn't fire up - it just kept turning and turning. Paused. Tried again, nothing. I then let it sit and the bike finally turned over but sounded awful like it was choking and black smoke poured out of the exhaust (this happened the first time I had this oil air box issue too). I had to hold open the throttle to keep the bike working for about 2 minutes and then it ran fine.

On the drive home the bike ran great. The check engine light came on for a split second again, but the bike was running better than it had in a long time. When I stopped at my friends house to look, we saw oil in the box, oil all over the breather pipe from box to head, and on that same head, the exhaust header was a darker blue.

I've attached pictures, but does anyone have any guidance on where to even start with looking for issues? I have a fantastic mechanic but I'm trying to save some money (tooth issue needs to be taken care of first ha).

Thanks!

Pictures below:

Okay, starting to work on it today.

I wonder if I can just replace the oil pipes with any regular auto parts store oil pipes or do they need to be something special?

Here’s to first time working on the bike! Fingers crossed I don’t break it.

[Tom H]

The only thing simple that I can think of that MAY cause excessive oil in the breather box could be a dirty or oil soaked air filter. I think I would start there. A clogged air filter MAY cause more suction in the oil breather tube pulling some oil rather than just oily air??

IF this dosen't solve the problem, I think you have something major going on. You should not be going through that much oil.

Good luck,
Tom

[poppe]

The only thing simple that I can think of that MAY cause excessive oil in the breather box could be a dirty or oil soaked air filter. I think I would start there. A clogged air filter MAY cause more suction in the oil breather tube pulling some oil rather than just oily air??

IF this dosen't solve the problem, I think you have something major going on. You should not be going through that much oil.

Good luck,
Tom

Oh really... dang that’s not good. My oil filter seems clean but it does smell like oil. I wonder if there are any local shops I can get an oil filter from or if it’s online only.

[Tom H]

If you want to try the filter, you might try PCH Powersports in M.D.R. or Pro Italia in Glendale.

Again the filter may or may not help. Your symptoms make me think it's very rich at times. You are also going through alot of oil. Very low oil in 1000 miles makes me wonder.

I'm also thinking that you need to check your oil more often. Also, when was your last service as in oil and filters?

Tom

[Tom H]

This wont help your oil issue, but your spark plug caps could be bad. V7's had issues with them IIRR.

Tom

[poppe]

If you want to try the filter, you might try PCH Powersports in M.D.R. or Pro Italia in Glendale.

Again the filter may or may not help. Your symptoms make me think it's very rich at times. You are also going through alot of oil. Very low oil in 1000 miles makes me wonder.

I'm also thinking that you need to check your oil more often. Also, when was your last service as in oil and filters?

Tom

I try to check my oil every 1000 miles.

Air filter is worth a shot. I just had the oil change in February.

Just cleaned the oil breather pipe from the head to box. It was very dirty on the outside but clean and open on the inside. Now working on the pipe from the airbox to the crank case. I did notice a pipe/hose under the bike where the evap removal was done and it has oil droplets coming out of it.

This wont help your oil issue, but your spark plug caps could be bad. V7's had issues with them IIRR.

Tom

Thanks! I actually ordered some and they should be here today to try and change. Do I just take a regular wrench to unscrew them? Haha that’s how new I am to all this...

Btw - spark plugs replaced 1500 miles ago when original oil in airbox issue came up. They were black so we replaced them.

[Vagrant]

my 15 used and blew out some oil for 4000 miles or so until somewhat broken in. And / or i quit overfilling it.
what are you using for oil? Some oils still foam a bit.
next the only proper way to check it is to drive it a couple of miles or after coming home from a ride. If no center stand use a 2x4 under the kickstand or drive into a wheel chock to level the bike. let it set for 1/2 a cold beer and then check level. the 15 calls for the dip stick to not be screwed in while the 17 got changed to be fully screwed in. I think the not screwed in was too high all along and they finally just figured it out. I now unscrew it and NEVER let it be filled past the 1/2 way warm. JMHO!

[Tom H]

Use the search here for "V7 spark plug caps" to see how to change the plug caps. Take a few minutes and read a few of them. There are issues with over filling the engine oil and causing the breather box to get oily. Also, you can have running issues from over filling the gas tank.

Tom

[twowheeladdict]

. let it set for 1/2 a cold beer and then check level.

Love your method of time management!  LOL!  After a ride in the summertime the 1st half of a cold beer goes down pretty fast, then I start taking gear off before I get back to it.   

[poppe]

 

Use the search here for "V7 spark plug caps" to see how to change the plug caps. Take a few minutes and read a few of them. There are issues with over filling the engine oil and causing the breather box to get oily. Also, you can have running issues from over filling the gas tank.

Tom

Thanks will do! The running gas over filling was an issue when I first got the bike but I’ve since not done anything like that. The weird thing is I still can’t get over 120 miles before the low fuel light comes on when I fill it but not over fill it.

my 15 used and blew out some oil for 4000 miles or so until somewhat broken in. And / or i quit overfilling it.
what are you using for oil? Some oils still foam a bit.
next the only proper way to check it is to drive it a couple of miles or after coming home from a ride. If no center stand use a 2x4 under the kickstand or drive into a wheel chock to level the bike. let it set for 1/2 a cold beer and then check level. the 15 calls for the dip stick to not be screwed in while the 17 got changed to be fully screwed in. I think the not screwed in was too high all along and they finally just figured it out. I now unscrew it and NEVER let it be filled past the 1/2 way warm. JMHO!

Okay thank you. The bike has 9000 miles on it now but the issue started at 7,000 miles.


On a side note, this part was loose. What is it?

[poppe]

Thanks will do! The running gas over filling was an issue when I first got the bike but I’ve since not done anything like that. The weird thing is I still can’t get over 120 miles before the low fuel light comes on when I fill it but not over fill it.

Okay thank you. The bike has 9000 miles on it now but the issue started at 7,000 miles.


On a side note, this part was loose. What is it?

I think it’s my starter motor. Weird!

[poppe]

I noticed the spark plug wire that runs down from the engine to the spark plug, on the head that had the pipe that had oil all over it, that wiring of the spark plug wire has worn a bit as it’s sitting on the head and melting. Is that normal?

[malik]

I noticed the spark plug wire that runs down from the engine to the spark plug, on the head that had the pipe that had oil all over it, that wiring of the spark plug wire has worn a bit as it’s sitting on the head and melting. Is that normal?

No, it's not normal. The HT wires do get a bit squashed in there, but don't melt. When you change the plugs & caps (I use CR9EK plugs & XD05f caps from NGK), I'd be tempted to replace the HT leads as well.

To replace the breather lines, any appropriate hose will do, the OEM ones are too expensive. While you are at the shop getting those, also pick up some hose for the fuel (gas) overflow. It too gets hard at the tank end & breaks. Mine is some 700mm long & 8.5mm ID, 9.5mm OD or thereabouts. When you take the breathers off the valve covers, check that they are not cracked & split under the hose clamp - that can result in oil from the valve cover over the fins & into the V. And probably elsewhere. Degrease & wash as you go.

In the early days of the 2014 Special, I had a problem with engine oil in the airbox. I had put 2L in. Oil soaked the air filter, covered the insides of the throttle body, ran rough, like shit actually, and kept on cutting out every few miles. Horrible. Solution: clean the oil out of the airbox, clean the oil out of the throttle body with throttle body cleaner & paper towels - you can get right through the throttle body insides from the airbox side - a new air filter, and now I replace the oil to only 1.9L. Others have found 1.8, 1.75 & 1.7 appropriate. (Note that I''m in the process of taking the engine from the frame; the rubber manifold & the inlet manifolds had a thick coating of oil inside them, likely from the original overfill, but the throttle body was clean - that oil coating seems not to have affected performance overmuch).

That being said, it seems to me that you have something else going on (maybe as well). If you haven't done so already, download the Service Station Manual from thisoldtractor, and get the specs to test the oil pressure sensor with your multimeter. A bit awkward to get at, (it's the one in the V of the motor with a spade connector on top) but easy to test (even for me). On the V7C I'd get blips on the oil light &/or the engine management light until it failed completely & I replaced it with a new one.

After doing all that, I'd be hopeful, but not confident that it would be fine. I've a suspicion that some other nasty is in there. Good luck & I'll follow this thread with interest.

[Andy1]

In your first post you said that the red oil light came on.  That means low oil pressure.  And unless you are very lucky, almost certain engine damage.
Your oil consumption is very high.  You need to find out where the oil is going.  Is it being burnt through the cylinders / valves, through the intake or leaking?
AndyB

[poppe]

No, it's not normal. The HT wires do get a bit squashed in there, but don't melt. When you change the plugs & caps (I use CR9EK plugs & XD05f caps from NGK), I'd be tempted to replace the HT leads as well.

To replace the breather lines, any appropriate hose will do, the OEM ones are too expensive. While you are at the shop getting those, also pick up some hose for the fuel (gas) overflow. It too gets hard at the tank end & breaks. Mine is some 700mm long & 8.5mm ID, 9.5mm OD or thereabouts. When you take the breathers off the valve covers, check that they are not cracked & split under the hose clamp - that can result in oil from the valve cover over the fins & into the V. And probably elsewhere. Degrease & wash as you go.

In the early days of the 2014 Special, I had a problem with engine oil in the airbox. I had put 2L in. Oil soaked the air filter, covered the insides of the throttle body, ran rough, like shit actually, and kept on cutting out every few miles. Horrible. Solution: clean the oil out of the airbox, clean the oil out of the throttle body with throttle body cleaner & paper towels - you can get right through the throttle body insides from the airbox side - a new air filter, and now I replace the oil to only 1.9L. Others have found 1.8, 1.75 & 1.7 appropriate. (Note that I''m in the process of taking the engine from the frame; the rubber manifold & the inlet manifolds had a thick coating of oil inside them, likely from the original overfill, but the throttle body was clean - that oil coating seems not to have affected performance overmuch).

That being said, it seems to me that you have something else going on (maybe as well). If you haven't done so already, download the Service Station Manual from thisoldtractor, and get the specs to test the oil pressure sensor with your multimeter. A bit awkward to get at, (it's the one in the V of the motor with a spade connector on top) but easy to test (even for me). On the V7C I'd get blips on the oil light &/or the engine management light until it failed completely & I replaced it with a new one.

After doing all that, I'd be hopeful, but not confident that it would be fine. I've a suspicion that some other nasty is in there. Good luck & I'll follow this thread with interest.

Hey thanks. That’s all good to know. I know I was over filling it originally but haven’t done so in over a year when I had the bike thoroughly cleaned like you did here but me by my mechanic, replaced spark plugs and even a gasket to try and fix any issues.

It’s weird because the bike ran fine for a few hundred miles but then started up again.

In your first post you said that the red oil light came on.  That means low oil pressure.  And unless you are very lucky, almost certain engine damage.
Your oil consumption is very high.  You need to find out where the oil is going.  Is it being burnt through the cylinders / valves, through the intake or leaking?
AndyB

When I first had this issue it was a misaligned valve gasket and that seemed to solve the problem. But then I noticed I’d have oil issues as it got cold where the light would come on. So I’d add a little bit in and it’d turn off and everything would be fine.

I recently had an oil change done and had no issues, no light. Bike running smooth. Then randomly started with a check engine light for a blip and then an oil in the box about 50 miles later.

Unfortunately I just really have no clue what I’m doing and starting to exhaust my financial resources with this bike and it never seems to solve the issue of the way the bike runs.

[Tom H]

Hang in there. Maybe someone can narrow this down a bit more for you. You have great info so far!!

I mentioned shops near by Los Angeles Ca.. You are in L.A. Ca. right? Another option might be Guzzi Classics in Signal Hill, not sure if he works on V7's, he's mainly Loops.

Tom

[poppe]

So, just an update, not a good one. Replaced one entire spark plug wire as it had melted to the head a bit, not entirely. Thought it might be causing bad firing though.

Bike ran beautifully for about 50 miles and then went back to normal issues. CEL, low oil pressure light on acceleration, surging power and stalling power, sporadic moments of acceleration where there is almost no power (can’t get to 45 mph through 4 gears) because bike is riding like I’m slogging it, and finally on acceleration, occasionally there will be a wobling like sound to the exhaust and on decel there will be slight back firing.

Only two things I can think of next are to get injectors cleaned, and to try and find a way to get the intake cleaned of any residual oil.

Any help would be appreciated on how to do that!

Injectors: I think injectors might be clogged because the bike sat a lot when these issues came about and all gas here has some form of ethanol. I tried running only Chevron 91 for 3 gas tanks. That improved the bike a bit, but still has the issues. Highway speeds at constant throttle of 75-85, the bike runs perfect.

Intake/throttle body: bike was over filled by me a few times on accident before I knew what I was doing. In the cold months, the oil pressure light would come on and so is add a little fuel and the bike would not throw that light on acceleration. But by doing that, the bike would throw oil into the air box and jump to the intake. Don’t really know what to do about this issue.

[Vagrant]

Sorry but it's time to be a bit brutal. you know you never did answer the question of what brand and weight oil you are using. who did the evap removal. I question if it was done right. never saw where you posted how you check the oil. hot, cold, bike on side stand etc.
best thing you could do is take it down to Todd or another Guzzi man and have him go through it. if you don't know the difference between a fuel filter and a fuel pump or when an air filter is oil soaked or the difference between an oil and an air filter it's time for an experienced man to look at it after all you've been messing with it for 4 months. .