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My recommendation: buy a Hepco-Becker rack.It will save you the fiddle and futts trying the make your old rack work, and the top case will be firmly attached, and easy to remove if you want it off.Dan
WHAT? BUY a ready made one when a home-made one is already available? That's in violation of one of the True Blue Guzzi Requirements!! Put a No Guzzi Content on that post! Lannis
That's true, Lannis. You should see the hoops I'm jumping through trying to adapt a windshield to the G5 that was never meant for it. It was FREE, though.. <Guzzi content.>
Or in Chucks' case, a CNC mill and computer. I'd hazard a guess that the cable was just a standard network cable and not a shielded one... or not properly grounded. Think about it, 25 feet away is nothing for a radio signal, and that's why it fried.
Son-of-a-welder here... and yes, I know you already pulled it off, that is by far the safest bet. As mentioned, gas welding, aka, oxy-acetylene, could be used to tack it with no electrical repercussions, but that's about the only on-machine welding I'd accept. Vehicle confusers are delicate, and welding machines are... hazardous at times.Of the electrical welding types, stick is the least likely to fry a brain box. Then MIG or gasless MIG, and finally, the worst offender, TIG, because of the HF start. Best to minimize your chances of frying one of our vehicle mounted silicon overlords - remove the part from the vehicle. However, with TIG, this may not be enough. The TIG welder needs to have good ground connection to the part being welded, but also, the welder itself needs to be well grounded on the power side. This is because when the high frequency start is used, the TIG wires are pulsing with a signal much like a radio broadcast signal, ie, the lead wire acts like an antenna. If the machine is not properly grounded there is enough RF leakage that this can induce a current in a nearby piece of metal. A bench, a chair, or a vehicle. Or in Chucks' case, a CNC mill and computer. I'd hazard a guess that the cable was just a standard network cable and not a shielded one... or not properly grounded. Think about it, 25 feet away is nothing for a radio signal, and that's why it fried.
Obviously, it would be best to disassemble the rear of the bike to remove the rack & do the work.
You stated the best thing to do in your original question. Seems like a "no-brainer" since you already know that removing the rack for welding is the best way to go.
Well, sometimes you just like to hear it from someone else. For me, I can get to staring at something all by myself in the shop for too long and start doubting my own judgment ....That's what we're here for.Lannis
Between having a welder for a father and a very close friend who is a certified HAM radio nut... I guess you could say I've been educated by people who know about these things. I will say that while the welding stuff makes sense to me, radio is just a bit to the right of magic in my book. There are people who understand that stuff way better than I do, and I'm glad they do, because while it's not quite reading tea leaves or chicken guts, it's pretty dang close as far as I'm concerned. Thankfully, I don't have to understand how it works to understand that it works... kinda like computers and fuel injection. Glad I could pass along some information, and that it was even useful!Rick