Wildguzzi.com
General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: willowstreetguzziguy on March 19, 2016, 04:15:02 PM
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can't believe how terrible the valve cover gaskets are on my 1200 Sport. Every few thousand miles and they sprint a leak! I was told about the silicone rubber gaskets from Real Gaskets in Tennessee. They make some specifically got my 1200 plus other Guzzis and bikes. I ordered a set today. Anyone try them?
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Yep, they took care of the leaky factory gaskets on my Breva 1100.
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yes. have them on both Guzzi. I did have one of them tear and fail.
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Yes, and they fixed my CalVin / no more leaks.
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Maybe try these?
Valve cover gasket with metal core and rubber coating for Breva 1100, Griso 2 valve, California Vintage, Black Eagle, Norge 2V, 1200 Sport
http://www.mgcycle.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=170_174&products_id=4634
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Maybe try these?
Valve cover gasket with metal core and rubber coating for Breva 1100, Griso 2 valve, California Vintage, Black Eagle, Norge 2V, 1200 Sport
http://www.mgcycle.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=170_174&products_id=4634
Yup, those are the Valpolinni gaskets. End of problem.
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Is there a link to a supplier here in Oz? I would certainly use them, picked up a few spares in Mandello, but I don't think they would be as good as you guys say the silicone ones are
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I have a set of Real gaskets on my Eldo and they don't leak, even though the valve covers have visible scrapes on the mating surfaces. So, they do seal quite well. They use a lower torque than I am used to, so the first time I put them on, I squeezed them out.
That said, the Valpolinni sounds like a great idea also.
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Is there a link to a supplier here in Oz? I would certainly use them, picked up a few spares in Mandello, but I don't think they would be as good as you guys say the silicone ones are
Any dealer can get them for you.
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Thank you Pete, I'll get some
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I thought there was something wrong with my sport, I tore it down thinking the oil line to the head was leaking but after really checking it out I have come to the conclusion that it is just the valve cover gaskets, mine like willows lets loose about 2000 to 4000 miles, I have replaced 6 in 12000 miles. I'm going to get me a set of the new style and try them out. P.S. while I had mine tore apart I looked in on the fuel filter to see if it was factory, it was but was still pliable but went to a all metal filter anyway.
Bruce
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I tried to buy gaskets from them, but didn't see the ones I needed so I emailed them. I never got a reply.
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Can someone give me a very brief description, on the 1200 Sport, how to remove the valve covers and replace the gaskets? I've been told with the new gaskets to only torque them between 12 to 15. How many bolts holding the cover on and I assume I need to raise up the tank slightly to access them?
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Don't know about your Sport, but on the Norge you can get the covers off without removing the yank but you won't be able to clean the head surface of remains
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How many bolts hold on the Norge valve cover?
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Hi willow, you will have to raise the tank a little bit and use Allen's to take the spark plug holder off then you can take the bolts out of valve cover, like 8 bolts. Be careful with the little bolts on the plug holder, I think the 2 on top are 8mm, can be real buggers to get out. I believe the torque spec is 10nm for the valve cover.
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Hi willow, you will have to raise the tank a little bit and use Allen's to take the spark plug holder off then you can take the bolts out of valve cover, like 8 bolts. Be careful with the little bolts on the plug holder, I think the 2 on top are 8mm, can be real buggers to get out. I believe the torque spec is 10nm for the valve cover.
Good advice on the spark plug wire cover bolts. I think the Sport's rocker covers differ from the 2v Norge in how the plug wire covers attach. I had rotten luck with the OEM gaskets, but no major issues with the heavy duty 'green' ones. However, I think I'm taking Pete's advice and ordering a set of gaskets with the metal cores.
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I have real gaskets on my 1200S. The problem is the torque spec which is 10-15 inch/lbs. I just used the small end of the allen wrench to snug them up, however after a few hundred kilometers the vibration of the motor loosened the bolts and the covers started leaking. I snugged them with the wrench in the tool kit to get home. At home I cleaned everything and snugged the bolts with blue Loctite. So far they are holding good.
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If anyone else is still using the RealGaskets, I suggest a torque-limiting screwdriver,which is like a click-type torque wrench in a screwdriver that accepts standard 1/4" hex shank driver bits. I found a used Utica TS-30 for about fifteen bucks on ebay, adjusts in 1 inch-pound increments from 1 to 30 inch pounds. Mine arrived calibrated OK, YMMV. It lives with my valve adjusting tools with a long Allen bit so I can get the sump bolts also.
The sump gasket is a serious pain in the... to install. Too floppy, keeps running away when you're trying to get the first couple of bolts started. I don't recommend for that reason. Makes me loathe filter changes. I will probably go back to paper for the sump.
I definitely recommend retorqueing the bolts every thousand miles or so.