General Category > Bike Builds, Rebuilds And Restorations Only
Well I think I finally found a suitable project a 78 t3
Antietam Classic Cycle:
There's a drain screw (originally an "allen"/socket head) down at the bottom. To refill, I put a jack under the sump (with wood to protect the fins), unscrew the bolt holding the damper to the top plug (M8), raise the front end a little - forks should extend - dampers drop out of the top plug. >OR< leave the M8 bolt in, unscrew the top plug from the fork tube (helps if the top triple pinch bolt is loosened), lower the jack until there's a gap between the fork tube and bottom of the top plug enough to pour oil into. Measure the correct amount of atf and refill. One of those pointy tips from a gear oil bottle makes a good mini-funnel.
The spec. for SP forks is 40 cc each leg, but 850-T is 50 cc and T3 is 60 cc. It's only for lubrication.
benebob:
All fluids aside from brake fluid has been changed but I do have some dot 3 waiting for some new pads to arrive to do that. Spent today going over some electrics. Seems I can get just about everything to work minus the tail light wiring. Can't seem to find a T3 us wiring diagram but from looking at the euro wiring diagram and an online 74 usa t diagram I am assuming that the red wire going to the rear is for the tail light and the yellow is the brake light. There is a larger gauge black wire as well which from the 74 diagram appears to be for the plate light but that doesn't make much sense watt wise. Also, I have two maybe 24-26 gauge black wires in the headlight bucket that I had thought might be grounds for the front turns but it doesn't appear they are grounds. They are cut so any help on what these might have been for would be a big help. Finally the fuse box is missing the bottom fuse which from what it looks like to me the bottom two fuses are spare and aren't wired to anything is that right? If not a diagram of what each one goes to would be lovely. Still not exactly sure what I want to do for switches as what i have though working isn't for the long term as a po wired the left switch externally
Antietam Classic Cycle:
Wiring diagram at page 60 of 62 here:
https://www.thisoldtractor.com/mg_manuals/owners_manual_850-t3_1975-06_en.pdf
benebob:
Well today was the first day of an actual short ride. Still have a wonkie oil pressure set up as the light spends very little time out and the hamdlebar switches are cobbled together but worth taking it around a country block so about 5 miles or so. Engine ran just fine, clutch seems a little weak but could just be from decades of limited use, speedo is inop so I guess I'm gonna need to figure out how to put on this contraption I was sent that is to be a speedo cable. Handling, brakes bearing seem solid. Only real ridable issue is she's got a death pogo around 45-50 mph. Nothing til then and if you go beyond 50mph nothing above. I'm assuming this might be dead front suspension dampeners as the front end seems to be quite easy to compress. That said without pulling the dampeners and measuring them is there anyway to determine if they are an 850t3 dampener or from a later sp1000 or 850t4? Did decide to be lazy and ordered switch gear from Greg so progress is being made. Sadly Saturday am on the way to cars and coffee my 97 Triumph Speed Triple decided it no longer needed 6 tranny gears so now I have 3 bikes on the project side of the garage and a jeep that has a 61 year old clutch about ready to head to the willys afterlife.
Antietam Classic Cycle:
I've successfully refilled original dampers (if they're not leaking) and eradicating the "pogo". Basically, one drills a small hole in the top (where the M8 bolt threads in), squirts/drains all of the original Italian fish oil out, and then refills with fork oil. I can go into more detail if you're interested in doing this.
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