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Just picked up my first Guzzi! 2015 V7 Special
Parashootist:
A few days ago I picked up my first Moto Guzzi and 95th bike since I began riding :grin: A seemingly mint V7 popped up for sale a few hours away near a spot I go paragliding so I made the trip with a friend and we got in a nice flight after picking up the bike. It's a 2015 V7 Special with just shy of 1500 miles on the odometer and aside from a boot rub mark here or there, it's like new. It came with H&B saddlebags/racks but is otherwise stock as far as I can tell.
The gentleman I bought it from said it hadn't been ridden much over the last 8 years so I drained the tank as soon as I got it home. After putting in some fresh gas, she fired up instantly. (she did run on the old gas as well when I looked at the bike)
Yesterday a couple gallons of Liqui Moly 10w60 GT1 oil arrived along with a few filters. Also a bottle of 75w90 Mobil 1 oil for the transmission. I will need to get oil for the differential and I'll probably flush the brake fluid as well.
Anything else I should do? The previous (original) owner said it had the valves done previously by a shop in Seattle. He also said it's mapped for sea level which sounded strange to me but I assume based on my reading that I may want to look into buying the cables and flashing it with Beetle's map?
Thanks! Look forward to riding this bike more.
guzzisteve:
Wow, 95 bikes, you must be an old guy or hammer through alot of bikes to try them out.
Parashootist:
--- Quote from: guzzisteve on May 16, 2025, 02:37:45 PM ---Wow, 95 bikes, you must be an old guy or hammer through alot of bikes to try them out.
--- End quote ---
I'm approaching 40 so some people consider that old !
Dirk_S:
2015 is the last of the small blocks with a 5-speed gearbox, no traction control, and no ABS.
The small blocks don’t naturally have a ton of travel in the rear due to the single UJ. Keep that in mind when considering suspension upgrades or modifications <cough>. But at least your engine is mounted upward, which slots for a little more ground clearance (V7 II dropped the engine to look more level).
Exhaust is single-walled, V7 III and on got double-walled pipes.
Rear wheel can be annoying to reinstall, as those cush rubbers can fall out of place easily. Recommended to dab them with thick grease or a little RTV sealant to help them stick in place while you install.
Assuming you’re doing the oils yourself? If so, it would be a good idea to pull the swingarm and check the driveshaft and u-joint for corrosion. Factory doesn’t usually grease them up.
If you overfill the engine, you will indeed have a wet airbox and filter. The small blocks don’t take much—2 liters spec’ed but maybe a hair less is better to avoid puking.
The fuel filter is probably the plastic type. These have been known to swell and fail. There’s a German metal style one that’s recommended as a replacement, but I also wouldn’t consider this a must-do.
Lots of bits on these Heron head small blocks up to 2016 are the same part # since the 80s. Like the driveshaft! Not a ton has changed, especially frame-wise, so you could even dress your pup in aluminum or carbon fiber like what’s on the V7 II or III (III is a different motor though).
Alternator is puny, but unless you need all the electric farkles, you’ll survive. I ride year round in Maine, and run heated grips and sometimes aux lights (led). If I wanted more heated gear, I’d consider my load.
I wouldn’t be cheap with my fuel type. 10.5:1 compression ratio means a bit more of a performance engine, tighter clearances. Treat her with the proper fuel and oil when possible (my opinion).
Dont lug the small blocks. Yeah, they’re v-twins, but that doesn’t mean they’re stroked out torque monsters. 4000-6000 is the sweet range.
Want a fun intro to Guzzis young and old, small and big? Dave Richardson’s Guzziology is a great book to have on hand for owners, acting as an in-depth supplement to service/owners manuals across the land.
Beetle map, yes! You won’t be sorry.
Hmmm. Surely that can’t be everything…
Parashootist:
Thanks for the excellent reply. I failed to mention that the front and rear suspension has been upgraded, I'm not seeing any markings but I believe they're Progressive. At some point I'd love to lift the bike a bit and make it more of a scrambler as I live in Idaho and frequent dirt roads. I understand the constraints of the travel in the rear. I don't intend to try and make this a MX bike haha.
I was aware of it being the end of the 5 speed without rider aids. I used this in my negotiation and got the bike for what I feel was a good price.
I just drained the engine oil which looked to be in very good shape, it had a reddish hue to it so I'm guessing Motul. Very little swarf on the magnets, a few tiny specs.
I'll grease the shaft at some point but I think I may put a few miles on it first. I believe I may have a tube of shaft grease from an R1100GS I had but I may be mistaken.
I'd like to upgrade the exhaust to a high scrambler exhaust but unless I see a great deal on one, I may just make due with the stock exhaust. I may also see about making on, I do have a tig welder!
--- Quote from: Dirk_S on May 16, 2025, 03:17:53 PM ---2015 is the last of the small blocks with a 5-speed gearbox, no traction control, and no ABS.
The small blocks don’t naturally have a ton of travel in the rear due to the single UJ. Keep that in mind when considering suspension upgrades or modifications <cough>. But at least your engine is mounted upward, which slots for a little more ground clearance (V7 II dropped the engine to look more level).
Exhaust is single-walled, V7 III and on got double-walled pipes.
Rear wheel can be annoying to reinstall, as those cush rubbers can fall out of place easily. Recommended to dab then with thick grease or a little RTV sealant to help them stick in place while you install.
Assuming you’re doing the oils yourself? If so, it would be a good idea to pull the swingarm and check the driveshaft and u-joint for corrosion. Factory doesn’t usually grease them up.
If you overfill the engine, you will indeed have a wet airbox and filter. The small blocks don’t take much—2 liters spec’ed but maybe a hair less is better to avoid puking.
The fuel filter is probably the plastic type. These have been known to swell and fail. There’s a German metal style one that’s recommended as a replacement, but I also wouldn’t consider this a must-do.
Lots of bits on these Heron head small blocks up to 2016 are the same part # since the 80s. Like the driveshaft! Not a ton has changed, especially frame-wise, so you could even dress your pup in aluminum or carbon fiber like what’s on the V7 II or III (III is a different motor though).
Alternator is puny, but unless you need all the electric farkles, you’ll survive. I ride year round in Maine, and run heated grips and sometimes aux lights (led). If I wanted to more heated gear, I’d consider my load.
I wouldn’t be cheap with my fuel type. 10.5:1 compression ratio means a bit more of a performance engine, tighter clearances. Treat her with the proper fuel and oil when possible (my opinion).
Dont lug the small blocks. Yeah, they’re v-twins, but that doesn’t mean they’re stroked out torque monsters. 4000-6000 is the sweet range.
Want a fun intro to Guzzis young and old, small and big? Dave Richardson’s Guzziology is a great book to have on hand for owners, acting as an in-depth supplement to service/owners manuals across the land.
Beetle map, yes! You won’t be sorry.
Hmmm. Surely that can’t be everything…
--- End quote ---
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