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General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: Daniel Kalal on December 16, 2022, 09:02:28 AM

Title: being a trip around France.
Post by: Daniel Kalal on December 16, 2022, 09:02:28 AM
(http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/map0001.JPG)
 
It has been awhile. My last two European motorcycle rides were three years ago  (2019) when I (on the first trip) rode through the Carpathian Mountains and then  (on the second trip) England. For 2020, I had  also made plans for two trips: the first was to be to Ireland and the second  would have been to the Portuguese island of Madeira.  Tickets were  purchased and plans were made.
 
None of it would happen.
 
- happened, instead.
 
(http://www.dankalal.net/images/flagEurope.png) Europe Motorcycle  Trip #23
 
For my return to Italy and beyond, I didn't make many plans--at least  not more than would be required to know which maps I should have with me.
 
While I've ridden across France many times, I'd never actually made that  country the main focus.  But, for this trip, I decided to just ride  around France for a couple of weeks.  I didn't initially intend to  literally “ride around France”, but that's pretty much what I did.
 
This will be a trip around France.
 
(http://www.dankalal.net/images/stateIL.png) Illinois
 
There are a few options for getting to Milan, but this has to be the best.  Chicago O'Hare has a nonstop flight to Italy on a Boeing 787.
 
I've always liked this United Airlines tunnel between terminals.   The colors change, but the ethereal music playing softly is always George  Gershwin.
 
(http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0001.JPG)
 
I'm waiting in the lounge.  My plane was parked just outside the window, so there was no need to be early to the gate.
 
(http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0003.JPG)  (http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0005.JPG)  (http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0006.JPG)
 
(http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0007.JPG)  (http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0009.JPG)  (http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0008.JPG)
 
This was my first time on a 787.  I like it.  The higher pressurization (effectively a lower altitude) is an advantage.
 
(http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0010.JPG)
 
(http://www.dankalal.net/images/flagItaly.png) Italy
 
Malpensa Airport has made plenty of changes over the years.  The baggage area is now much better.
 
(http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0012.JPG)  (http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0014.JPG)
 
Milano Porta Garibaldi now has more frequent trains to Lecco, so it makes  sense to take the train from Malpensa to this station instead of Milano Central  as I used to do.
 
(http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0015.JPG)
 
Lecco, Italy.  I'll be staying two nights--to acclimate  myself--before starting the ride.
 
(http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0016.JPG)  (http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0018.JPG)
 
Lecco cannot really be considered a tourist town, but that's only because  there are more attractive towns that cater to tourists not far from here.   But, it's a gentle place and perfect for what I need.
 
(http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0020.JPG)  (http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0022.JPG)  (http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0021.JPG)
 
I'll be taking the ferry to Bellagio.  Depending on the day of the  week, you don't need to wait more than a couple of hours for the next ferry.
 
(http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0025.JPG)  (http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0026.JPG)
 
Bellagio.  There's no question but that Bellagio is a town that does cater to tourists.
 
(http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0035.JPG)
 
I'm looking at Varenna across the lake.  Varenna has to be on the  list of most attractive towns on Lake Como.
 
(http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0038.JPG)
 
Lunch at Ristorante La Punta.  I got here at the right time.   Soon after, people were being turned away if they did not have a  reservation.
 
(http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0042.JPG)  (http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0039.JPG)  (http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0043.JPG)
 
Bellagio.  Today is my day for relaxing.  I'm just walking  around.
 
(http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0044.JPG)  (http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0046.JPG)
 
(http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0047.JPG)  (http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0048.JPG)
 
Lots and lots of steps.
 
(http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0049.JPG)
 
The shoreline of Lake Como is dotted with villas such as this one.   This remains a private house even though the grounds are open (if you buy a  ticket).
 
(http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0052.JPG)  (http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0054.JPG)
 
The ferry that will take me back to Lecco.  You'd best make sure of  the time of the last departure.  The Lecco-side leg of Lake Como does  not have nearly the ferry traffic as the Como-side leg of the lake.
 
(http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0057.JPG)
 
I've returned to Lecco and have done my laundry before having a light  meal and buying my ticket to Mandello del Lario for tomorrow's short, morning train  to Mandello.
 
(http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0059.JPG)  (http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0061.JPG)  (http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0062.JPG)
 
Mandello del Lario and the Moto Guzzi dealership.  I've been here  many times.  I've not changed my packing: everything I need is in the  yellow duffle bag.  While available, I do not mount the saddlebags nor  the top trunk.  I mount the GPS on the bars (there are no wires to  connect--it uses its own batteries).  I'll be riding a Moto Guzzi  850TT, just as I did in 2019.
 
(http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0597.JPG)
 
Stopping for a break along the Torrente Maira, near Savigliano.
 
(http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0064.JPG)  (http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0063.JPG)
 
I'm crossing into France across the France/Italy Alps with the idea of  heading more-or-less to the Pyrenees Mountains.
 
Vinadio, Italy.  The hotel reception is in the gas station across  the road.
 
(http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0066.JPG)  (http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0065.JPG)
 
Campeggio dei Forti
 
(http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0076.JPG)
 
This is an impressively large fortress that dates back to the Kingdom of  Sardinia (and likely well before).  You might think the island of  Sardinia is not really nearby; the history of this region is complex.
 
(http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0070.JPG)  (http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0082.JPG)  (http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0080.JPG)
 
(http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0086.JPG)
 
(http://www.dankalal.net/images/flagFrance.png) France
 
I'll be turning south off this relatively important two-lane highway onto  roads that are often not wide enough for two cars to pass.
 
(http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0088.JPG)
 
The view of Mont Pelat in the Maritime Alps.  This is a stunning  area that does not seem to be visited much.
 
(http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0089.JPG)
 
The pass near La Foux d'Allos.  This would have been the pass taken  when foot traffic was the only thing, but today's paved road takes a  different route just north of here.
 
(http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0091.JPG)
 
Colmars-les-Alpes.  Every pass is fortified.
 
(http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0094.JPG)
 
I'm following part of the Route de Napoleon.

(http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0095.JPG)
 
Torrent La Vaire
 
(http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0097.JPG)
 
A bother.  The main zipper (the one that extends from the bottom of  my leg to my collar) of my Aerostich riding suit has failed.  I spent  time trying to deal with it, but gave up.  I'll need to either repair  it (doubtful) or otherwise figure out how to continue the trip without a  riding suit or a riding jacket.
 
Digne-Les-Bains, France.  None of the older hotels in the center of  town seemed to be operating, but I found this chain-hotel on the outskirts.   Yes; I did give the cat a little bit of my dinner.
 
(http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0103.JPG) (http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0102.JPG) (http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0099.JPG) (http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0101.JPG)
 
Needing a riding suit, I looked for the nearest full-service BMW dealer,  knowing that they'd have something.  The nearest to me is in Aix-en-Provence,  on the coast, so that's where I am heading.
 
The old suit is strapped to the back,\ and I'm wearing what would have  been under the protection of the suit--it's cold, but this isn't too  bad.
 
(http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0106.JPG)
 
(http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0107.JPG)
 
I was very lucky.  The web site said they were open, but I had not  known that they were only open for two hours on Saturday.  I arrived at  the shop with just 15 minutes before they closed.
 
Most luckily, however, was that the only suit they had in stock (amongst  the hundreds of other “angry-biker-wear”) actually fit me, and should work  fine.  The color was unimportant to me.  They had one suite, it  fits, I'll take it.
 
I'll be figuring out the zippers and pockets and just how this thing actually works, along the way.
Title: Re: being a trip around France.
Post by: Daniel Kalal on December 16, 2022, 09:03:40 AM
BMW Bayern Aix-en-Provence.  Thanks for staying open for me.
 
(http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0108.JPG)  (http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0110.JPG)
 
Filling up in Port-de-Bouc.  I think I only encountered three stations  in France that would not accept my credit card (or any US credit cards).   Even so, being low on fuel and not being able to buy gasoline is annoying.
 
(http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0111.JPG)
 
Alès, France.  Aim for the center of town; look around for something  that will work.  This is fine.
 
(http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0122.JPG)  (http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0113.JPG)
 
I am very early to even think about finding a place that will serve anything  but drinks, but in an hour or so, this street will be full of people.
 
(http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0120.JPG)
 
(http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0117.JPG)  (http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photox0004.JPG)
 
(http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0118.JPG) (http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photox0005.JPG) (http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photox0006.JPG) (http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photox0007.JPG)
 
(http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photox0008.JPG)  (http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0119.JPG)  (http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0121.JPG)
 
Valflaunes.  I'm heading back to the Mediterranean coastline.
 
(http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0125.JPG)
 
Bouzigues on the Thau Basin.  This is an inlet off the Mediterranean  Sea.
 
(http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0126.JPG)
 
(http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0131.JPG)
 
Millas.  Let's stop for a bite to eat and a break from riding.
 
(http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0132.JPG)  (http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0135.JPG)
 
My first entry into the Pyrenees Mountains.  I love this area.
 
(http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0138.JPG)
 
(http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0139.JPG)
 
A farming community tucked away in the mountains.
 
(http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0141.JPG)
 
(http://www.dankalal.net/images/flagSpain.png) Spain
 
Llívia, Spain is entirely surrounded by France.  You'll find several  examples across Europe of borders that are actually bubbles within another  country.  No matter which road you take out of this Spanish town,  you'll need to cross into France.
 
(http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0150.JPG)
 
The hotel in Llívia is unexpectedly nice.
 
(http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0143.JPG)  (http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0145.JPG)
 
(http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0161.JPG)
 
(http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0154.JPG)  (http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0155.JPG)  (http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0156.JPG)
 
(http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0157.JPG)
 
The next morning, I found a post office and mailed the Aerostich riding  suit that I'd been carrying.  I'll be in Spain--mostly--but touching  France now and again.  My plan is to stay within these mountains all  the way to the Atlantic Ocean.
 
(http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0167.JPG)

Narrow roads without traffic and small villages with character,  I love  riding here.
 
(http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0171.JPG)
 
Stopping for fuel and Schweppes.  I am impressed by the benches.   Nobody will be sleeping on them.
 
(http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0173.JPG)
 
Following rivers across Spain and the Pyrenees Mountains.
 
(http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0175.JPG)
 
(http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0177.JPG)
 
Horses seem free to go where they want, and this one wanted to go for a  walk on the road.  I parked and moved him to the grassy area where it  might be a bit safer for him (and me).
 
(http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0176.JPG)  (http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0178.JPG)
 
These are very rugged mountains.
 
(http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0183.JPG)
 
What a great road for a motorcycle.
 
(http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0185.JPG)
 
I am riding along the Garonne River, which I'll be following off-and-on until  it reaches the ocean.
 
(http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0190.JPG)
 
Arròs, Spain.  I did pretty well finding good hotels along the way
 
(http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0189.JPG)  (http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0186.JPG)  (http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0187.JPG)
 
Relaxing on the hotel grounds with a Spritz.
 
(http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0191.JPG)  (http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0192.JPG)  (http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0193.JPG)
 
(http://www.dankalal.net/images/flagFrance.png) France
 
I'm well off the well-travelled highway.  It's easy to stop at this  waterfall without any concern that another car will come along.
 
(http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0194.JPG)
 
(http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0195.JPG)
 
A little rain is fine.  Sometimes a lot of rain fell, but that did  not last long enough to make me consider stopping.
 
(http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0196.JPG)
 
Vast views across southern France that feels (and tastes) as much Spanish as  it does French.
 
(http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0199.JPG)
 
Stopping for coffee.
 
(http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0200.JPG)  (http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0201.JPG)  (http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0202.JPG)
 
(http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0204.JPG)
 
When the roads become so narrow that two vehicles cannot safely pass, no  centerline stripe will be used.  This is probably safer as it forces  drivers to think before charging into a blind curve.  For motorcycles,  it doesn't matter, too much, although I had plenty of cars try to take over  my space on the road.  You learn to expect it and to just deal with it  before it's a problem.
 
(http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0205.JPG)
 
(http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0206.JPG)
 
(http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0207.JPG)
 
Steep and narrow roads, but almost no traffic.  I am making very  slow progress, so I'm continually adjusting what options I have for the  trip.  The most important thing is that I must arrive back in Italy on  the correct date without too much rushing the days before.
 
Will I have time to cross the channel and ride in southern England?   I think “Yes” at this point, but this slow pace makes me wonder.   Eventually, the answer will be “No.”
 
(http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0210.JPG)
 
(http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0212.JPG)
 
(http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0216.JPG)
 
The pass was incredibly windy.  It seemed dangerous to just sit  motionless on the motorcycle and walking was just about impossible.   When I walked out here to take the photograph, my thoughts were always back  at the motorcycle with a worry that it'd soon be tumbling across the meadow.
 
(http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0227.JPG)
 
Yes, that's the road that has been cut across the bare granite sides of  the mountains.  There are plenty of tunnels that are dark and also  curved.
 
(http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0221.JPG)
 
I've crossed the last major pass and am taking a break.  I looked around  for a hotel, but didn't see anything that looked interesting.
 
(http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0228.JPG)
 
Following the Gave d'Ossau (river)
 
(http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0235.JPG)
 
Bielle, France.  My room is in the attic.
 
(http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0232.JPG)  (http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0230.JPG)  (http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0241.JPG)
 
(http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0242.JPG)
 
What a beautiful place for a morning ride.
 
(http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0244.JPG)
 
(http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0245.JPG)
Title: Re: being a trip around France.
Post by: Daniel Kalal on December 16, 2022, 09:05:21 AM
A smooth road with no traffic.  Gorgeous.
 
(http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0249.JPG)
 
(http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0248.JPG)
 
I've sorted out that having taken several days to run the length of the  Pyrenees Mountains, any side trip to England or anyplace else isn't really  possible.  As I've been following the border of France, I think I'll  just keep doing that the whole way 'round.
 
Looking at the map, drinking my Schweppes and wondering where the nearest  bridge might be to get me across this river.
 
(http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0252.JPG)  (http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0253.JPG)
 
Moliets-et-Maa, France along the Bay of Biscay.
 
(http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0255.JPG)  (http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0257.JPG)  (http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0256.JPG)
 
(http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0272.JPG)
 
Surfing in France?  But, of course!
 
(http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0268.JPG)
 
This is level ground, which has likely been modified considerably from  what was here hundreds of years ago.  The sandy soil now supports miles  of forests, but these are clearly forests that have been planted for their  wood or their pulp.
 
(http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0281.JPG)  (http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0284.JPG)
 
This was a constant problem today and the next.  Fires.  Big  fires.  I often had to take grand detours to get around them.   Many roads were closed, so I'll turn one way or the other, hoping to be able  to continue riding north (mostly).
 
(http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0285.JPG) (http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0287.JPG) (http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0286.JPG) (http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0288.JPG)
 
I'm back to the coast of the Bay of Biscay.  The tumbled concrete gun  boxes are part of Germany's Atlantic Wall.  Time and erosion has brought  them down to the beach, where they are now only the target of graffiti artists.
 
(http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0293.JPG)
 
Crossing La Gironde River by ferry.
 
(http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0296.JPG)
 
I didn't wait too long, and took the time to find a hotel that I'd stay  in, across the river at Royan.
 
(http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0295.JPG)
 
(http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0297.JPG)
 
(http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0299.JPG)
 
Royan, France. My hotel isn't too far behind me while I take this shot.   The building that has unaccountably been built on the beach is the Casino.
 
(http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0314.JPG)
 
That's my hotel on the left (below).  Everything I carry on a trip  is in that yellow bag.
 
(http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0305.JPG)  (http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0300.JPG)
 
This is (or was) a popular place for a summer house of the rich (but not  ultra rich).
 
(http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0307.JPG) (http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0310.JPG) (http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0311.JPG) (http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0312.JPG)
 
(http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0320.JPG) (http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0317.JPG) (http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0318.JPG) (http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0319.JPG)
 
Choices...
 
(http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0323.JPG)
 
Sunset over the Atlantic Ocean.
 
(http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0326.JPG)
 
I've added tarts (available, fresh, at any small village) to my standard  coffee-break.  These school children are  participating in some sort of class-against-class competition to see who  could pick up the most trash.  Pretty clever.
 
(http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0327.JPG)  (http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0328.JPG)
 
Dinan, France.  I've been nearby, but had never stopped for any  length of time.  It's a remarkable place, and would make an excellent  headquarters for an extended visit.
 
That's my hotel (below), which is on the border of the old town and  perfectly located for me.  There's parking under it for the motorcycle.
 
(http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0332.JPG)  (http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0330.JPG)
 
I'll spend tonight and all of the next day in Dinan.  It's time to  relax a bit from the day-by-day riding that I'd been doing.  I won't be  riding tomorrow.  For one day, I'll just walk.
 
We're in the heart of Brittany, where things can feel like England, but  sound like France.
 
(http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0339.JPG)  (http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0334.JPG)  (http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0340.JPG)
 
(http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0347.JPG)  (http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0348.JPG)
 
(http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0350.JPG)  (http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0370.JPG)
 
River Rance is where you'll find the lower part of Denan.  It's a  good walk down there, and even more so coming back up.
 
(http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0365.JPG)
 
(http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0353.JPG)  (http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0354.JPG)  (http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0355.JPG)
 
(http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0358.JPG)
 
I am sitting along the river and enjoying my crepe while I watch the  progress of that artist with his brushes.
 
(http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0360.JPG)  (http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0362.JPG)  (http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0364.JPG)
 
(http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0368.JPG)  (http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0369.JPG)
 
Near Lillemer, France.  I find myself riding through some out-of-the-way  places where you're more likely to meet a tractor on the road than a car.
 
(http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0372.JPG)
 
(http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0374.JPG)
 
This is the site of the command headquarters of General Bradley, after the 1944,  June 6 D-day invasion.  It's only a few miles inland from the  invasion-beaches.
 
(http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0375.JPG)  (http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0376.JPG)
 
Pointe du Hoc.  It's now (and was) an easy landmark from the sea.
 
(http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0381.JPG)
 
The view north (towards Omaha Beach)...
 
(http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0385.JPG)
 
...and the view south (towards Utah Beach).
 
(http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0390.JPG)
 
U.S. Army Rangers climbed these cliffs to take out the large guns that  had the potential to disrupt the invasion force.  Information that all  the guns were not yet installed had reached the Rangers beforehand, but the  plan went forward, in order to eliminate the threat from this location,  entirely.
 
(http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0383.JPG)  (http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0388.JPG)  (http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0393.JPG)
 
Thousands of bombs were dropped on this site before the invasion.  It's  all still clear.
 
(http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0394.JPG)
 
Looking for a place that would take my card sometimes required several  miles of detour.  This Carrefour self-service station worked.
 
(http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0395.JPG)
 
Riding across fairly flat terrain of Normandy.
 
(http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0396.JPG)
 
Amblie, France is marked by the steeple.
 
(http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0399.JPG)
 
I've stopped at the Canada cemetery, just inland from Juno Beach.
 
(http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0404.JPG)
 
(http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0401.JPG)
 
Hermanville-sur-Mer and another view of the BMW suit, which I've become used  to.  I wish the suite had a front map pocket, and I wish it had some other  good features of my Aerostich suit, but it's working fine.  The has a rigid  back-protector, which hasn't turned out to be noticeable when seated on the  motorcycle.
 
(http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0405.JPG)  (http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0407.JPG)
 
Deauville, France looks like a good place to stop for the night.   That's my hotel (below); my balcony is the first one up.
 
(http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0411.JPG)  (http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0409.JPG)
 
Walking through the town.  Deauville has quite a nice harbor,  protected from the English Channel.
Title: Re: being a trip around France.
Post by: Daniel Kalal on December 16, 2022, 09:06:37 AM
(http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0413.JPG)  (http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0415.JPG)  (http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0416.JPG)
 
(http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0417.JPG)
 
Some of the houses of Deauville.
 
(http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0419.JPG)  (http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0420.JPG)  (http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0421.JPG)
 
(http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0422.JPG)  (http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0423.JPG)  (http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0424.JPG)
 
(http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0425.JPG)  (http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0426.JPG)  (http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0427.JPG)
 
(http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0432.JPG)
 
Having my dinner at a sidewalk cafe.
 
(http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0429.JPG)  (http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0436.JPG)  (http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0431.JPG)
 
The Tancarville Bridge across the Seine River.  I'm still (mostly)  riding north, following the coast.
 
(http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0438.JPG)
 
Valliquerville, France: the community well, the war memorial and the church.
 
(http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0440.JPG)  (http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0451.JPG)  (http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0442.JPG)
 
Neufchâtel, France is rather proud of their cheese.
 
(http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0453.JPG)
 
These semi-exposed urinals seem a throwback to a much different age.
 
(http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0452.JPG)  (http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0456.JPG)
 
Bambou, France is little more than a gas station and cafe.  I had a  generally acceptable meal here.
 
(http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0457.JPG)
 
Valenciennes, France.  I was hoping for a more historic looking  city, but evidently Valenciennes saw a great deal of damage during the war.
 
(http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0459.JPG)  (http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0458.JPG)
 
(http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0460.JPG)
 
(http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0462.JPG)  (http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0467.JPG)
 
(http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0468.JPG)
 
I asked for something simple--some bread and cheese.  Certainly; of  course.
 
(http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0470.JPG)  (http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0471.JPG)
 
Near Beaumont, France
 
(http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0472.JPG)
 
(http://www.dankalal.net/images/flagBelgium.png) Belgium
 
The idea was to ride around the border, so sometimes I was riding on the  other side of the border.  Near Daussois, Belgium.
 
(http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0474.JPG)
 
(http://www.dankalal.net/images/flagFrance.png) France
 
Chapelle de Walcourt, built 1602 and rebuilt in 1781.   Restoration was completed in 2007.  At one time, it was even used as a  chapel by the occupying Russian army.  This place has seen a lot of  invaders over the centuries.
 
(http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0475.JPG)
 
Givet, France.
 
(http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0476.JPG)
 
(http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0477.JPG)
 
(http://www.dankalal.net/images/flagBelgium.png) Belgium
 
Neufchâteau, Belgium.
 
(http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0479.JPG)
 
(http://www.dankalal.net/images/flagLuxembourg.png) Luxembourg
 
Schengen, Luxembourg on the Moselle River.  You've likely heard of  Schengen in regards to the ability to cross European borders (such as I've  been doing) without any limits (as one might cross from Kansas to Nebraska).   The treaty that allows this was signed here in Schengen.
 
(http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0483.JPG)
 
(http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0481.JPG)  (http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0482.JPG)
 
(http://www.dankalal.net/images/flagGermany.png) Germany
 
I did a lot of riding on the Autobahn, but took no photographs.
 
(http://www.dankalal.net/images/flagFrance.png) France
 
I am back in France, and grateful to be well off the main highways,.
 
(http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0485.JPG)
 
Niederbronn-les-Bains, France in the Alsace region.  I'm not  expecting such a hotel in this small town.
 
(http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0488.JPG)  (http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0487.JPG)
 
 (http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0503.JPG)  (http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0502.JPG)
 
(http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0499.JPG)
 
 (http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0492.JPG)  (http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0494.JPG)
 
Nearby is Fortress Four-a-Chaux, on the Maginot Line.  I was hoping  to tour this extensive defensive position, but tours are limited and are  only available by guide.  I'm sorry to have missed this opportunity.   The underground installation is massive.
 
(http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0511.JPG)  (http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0509.JPG)
 
Les Errues, France.  I've heard of these, but never have had one:   Religieuse (pâtisserie), just 2.60 €.  Do you see the likeness of a nun  in this pastry?
 
(http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0512.JPG)  (http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0513.JPG)
 
Le Doubs River.
 
(http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0514.JPG)
 
La Tuilerie, France.
 
(http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0516.JPG)
 
Le Gelot, France as I ride deeper into the foothills that eventually lead  to the Alps.  How do I remember the names of these small places?   The easy way is to just take a photograph of the GPS screen.
 
(http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0518.JPG)  (http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0519.JPG)
 
Pays-de-Clerval on Le Doubs River.
 
(http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0520.JPG)
 
Near Cotebrune, France.  The southeast of France is one of my favorite  places to ride.
 
(http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0524.JPG)
 
(http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0527.JPG)
 
La Cluse-et-Mijoux, France.  As always, the routes is protected by a  fortress.
 
(http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0537.JPG)
 
My favorite sort of place: a good restaurant with several rooms upstairs.
 
(http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0533.JPG)  (http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0530.JPG)
 
(http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0539.JPG)  (http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0540.JPG)
 
It's early morning, just before sunrise.  It looks to be a beautiful day  for riding.
 
(http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0541.JPG)
 
Au fil de la Valserine (near Alpages).  This narrow road follows the  full length of this gorgeous valley.  I'm pretty certain that the road sees  more bicycles than cars.
 
(http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0544.JPG)
 
(http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0550.JPG)
 
(http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0551.JPG)
 
(http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0552.JPG)
 
Into the Jura Mountains.
 
(http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0557.JPG)
 
I'm taking a crumble-and-coffee break near La Tuilière.
 
(http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0560.JPG)
 
Lac d'Annecy.  The western end of this large lake is highly developed  with lots of resorts, but this other end remains natural.
Title: Re: being a trip around France.
Post by: Daniel Kalal on December 16, 2022, 09:07:43 AM
(http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0563.JPG)
 
I've entered the French Alps.
 
(http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0567.JPG)
 
(http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0570.JPG)
 
(http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0568.JPG)
 
Bourg-Saint-Maurice, France.  My hotel (below) is within easy  walking of the town.
 
(http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0575.JPG)  (http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0573.JPG)
 
There's a funicular that will take you to that hotel and access to the higher  ski centers.
 
(http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0577.JPG)
 
Walking through the center of Bourg-Saint-Maurice.
 
(http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0579.JPG)
 
(http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0583.JPG)  (http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photox0017.JPG)  (http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photox0018.JPG)
 
Crossing Little Saint Bernard Pass and looking back to the town I started  from this morning.
 
(http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0584.JPG)
 
When Hannibal crossed the Alps with his elephants, he might have come across  this pass.  There are other possibilities, but I like to image dozens of  war-elephants looking for grass to eat while the troops rested here.
 
(http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0587.JPG)
 
The Maginot Line was here, too.
 
(http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0588.JPG)
 
(http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0590.JPG)
 
(http://www.dankalal.net/images/flagItaly.png) Italy
 
Mont Blanc.  There's a tunnel that runs under it, but I've come across  the Alps the old-fashioned way.
 
(http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0591.JPG)
 
On the Autostrada, following the signs to Milano.
 
Incidentally, I am carrying the hard-to-find oil based on the fact that  the last time I rode a Guzzi TT, the engine consumed a fair amount of oil  and ran hot.  But, this bike ran beautifully and used no oil.   Based on the performance and power of this current motorcycle, I'm now  convinced that the last bike I rode was not at all what it should have been.
 
(http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0596.JPG)
 
And, I'm back at Mandello del Lario.  Is this the most beautiful  lake in the world?  Some say it is.
 
(http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0614.JPG)
 
Always, after walking to the lake after turning my ride in, I stop at the  best gelato store in Italy.  It always feels good to walk along the  lake after a long and successful ride.
 
(http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0616.JPG)  (http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0606.JPG)  (http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0609.JPG)
 
My room is up there in the corner.
 
(http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0622.JPG)  (http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0600.JPG)
 
Walking through Mandello.
 
(http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0617.JPG)  (http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0618.JPG)  (http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0621.JPG)
 
(http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0603.JPG)  (http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0604.JPG)
 
The next morning, I catch the train to Lecco, and then continue on that same  train to Milano.
 
(http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0626.JPG)
 
Arriving in Milano, Italy.  It's a wet afternoon.
 
(http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0627.JPG)  (http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0628.JPG)
 
The reception area of my hotel.  I often give a quick look around when I  don't see my yellow bag.  Not to worry, it's in the luggage.   Actually, that luggage is not at all full, since I've left my BMW riding suit in  the Guzzi shop in Mandello for my next trip.  That's one less thing I'll  need to carry from now on.  Helmet, boots, and now riding suit are now  there for me.
 
(http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0630.JPG)  (http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0629.JPG)
 
The Duomo di Milano.  This plaza is always full; they're taking the same  photograph that I am.
 
(http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0631.JPG)
 
The Galleria Vittorio Emanuel II.  It's not your ordinary suburbn  shopping mall.
 
(http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0633.JPG)
 
The next morning, I'm catching the express train to Malpensa..
 
(http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photox0020.JPG)  (http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0635.JPG)
 
...where I'll board a United flight to Newark, New Jersey and then Houston,  Texas, before coming home.  Yes, I'll take one of those drinks.
 
(http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0637.JPG)  (http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0636.JPG)
 
Flying out over the Italian Po valley.
 
(http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/photo0639.JPG)
 
It felt good to return to Italy.  I'm especially glad to have  finally been able to spend time in the Pyrenees Mountains.  It's been a  great trip.
Title: Re: being a trip around France.
Post by: AJ Huff on December 16, 2022, 09:15:09 AM
Glad to see you back on here!

-AJ
Title: Re: being a trip around France.
Post by: Guzzistajohn on December 16, 2022, 09:50:07 AM
Good to see you here again Daniel! Spectacular report as usual!   :thumb:
Title: Re: being a trip around France.
Post by: Tusayan on December 16, 2022, 09:53:19 AM
Great report!

I noticed your issues with US credit cards at gas stations in France.  I’ve had the same there and in Switzerland.  Did you ride any French Autoroutes?  I’ve been stuck at small Autoroute exits in the south where they take only credit cards, not cash, and don’t take US credit cards. I’m hoping that by the next time I’m at one of those exits, they will have sorted out the situation. One time I ended up paying somebody cash to get me ‘out of jail’ with their French credit card. The other time I was able to ride around the barrier!
Title: Re: being a trip around France.
Post by: Daniel Kalal on December 16, 2022, 10:06:39 AM
I noticed your issues with US credit cards at gas stations in France.  I’ve had the same there and in Switzerland.

It's a real problem!  In years past, I've had good luck with a Travelex Cash Card (issued out of the UK), but they've stopped supporting American customers and cancelled the card before I took this trip.  I avoided any tollways in France, but sometimes you need to fill up at a rural station that is not attended.  If there's an attendant, you're almost always going to be able to complete the transaction with that person even if the pumps refuse American cards.  Yes, I've had to pay somebody to use their card on several occasions.  It feels like you're begging even when paying them a premium.  I once gave 50 Euros for 20 Euros of fuel.
Title: Re: being a trip around France.
Post by: Daniel Kalal on December 16, 2022, 10:09:54 AM
they will have sorted out the situation

Don't count on this ever happening.  I've talked with a few folks at Visa and MasterCard (people high enough up who can do things) and they say it's not worth the expense to upgrade their domestic (US) customers to a true PIN and Chip card system.  We get Chip and Signature, which gets a good chuckle in France...
Title: Re: being a trip around France.
Post by: Nick on December 16, 2022, 10:22:50 AM
Thank you Daniel! Great ride report.  :thumb:
Title: Re: being a trip around France.
Post by: scra99tch on December 16, 2022, 10:27:52 AM
Ahhh yes the Gelato, I could not stay away from that place last year.  Cheap and right near the water.

Nice Trip report, make me envious of my next one whenever that will be.  As of now going to do the National Parks with the family for the next few years.

Title: Re: being a trip around France.
Post by: PJPR01 on December 16, 2022, 12:09:38 PM
Very enjoyable as always...travelling in style!
Title: Re: being a trip around France.
Post by: Roebling3 on December 16, 2022, 01:22:24 PM
Daniel. Thank you ever so much.

It's been a long time since I lived there (60's). Then, in 1973 'til 2011; when I represented companies in Netherlands, France, Italy, Switzerland, plus the US.  I could borrow MCs from friends nearly every where I went.  To good to be true? I was so enamored with the friendships of hundreds I missed much of the beauty you have expressed. As many have said;' You can only go 'round once'.

I'll visit your wonderful photography many times. You have a generous soul, Danial.   Good fortune,  R3~
Title: Re: being a trip around France.
Post by: Texas Turnip on December 16, 2022, 02:29:41 PM
Thanks for taking this former high mileage Guzzi rider on your trip. Keep 'em coming.
Tex
Title: Re: being a trip around France.
Post by: LowRyter on December 16, 2022, 02:31:31 PM
 :thumb:
Title: Re: being a trip around France.
Post by: Sykestone8886 on December 16, 2022, 03:35:45 PM
Thoroughly enjoyed your trip report, beautiful scenery!!
Title: Re: being a trip around France.
Post by: Ncdan on December 16, 2022, 04:43:35 PM
I took my time going through the pictures and reading the information, one at a time.
These type of riding reviews are really great for us that will never get the chance to actually see all these wonderful places the planet had to offer.
Thanks you for taking your time to share this adventure with the members of the Wild Guzzi Forum.
I, for one, really enjoyed it!

Dan
Title: Re: being a trip around France.
Post by: lazlokovacs on December 16, 2022, 04:57:56 PM
great stuff!

I think you went right past my place. I'm in the french basque country, not far from the border with 'spain'
Title: Re: being a trip around France.
Post by: pebra on December 16, 2022, 04:59:47 PM
Wonderful - a true Tour de France! Thanks, Daniel.

Brought memories of my own trip around France; by Citroën back in 1998.

Title: Re: being a trip around France.
Post by: nick949 on December 16, 2022, 05:13:45 PM
Wonderful, enviable tour. Great photos. Thanks Daniel.

Nick
Title: Re: being a trip around France.
Post by: Pescatore on December 16, 2022, 08:20:24 PM
Great pictures.  I appreciate the map you posted.  Very useful.

I'm curious about where you left your gear.  You know the shop owner?
Sounds like you're going back soon.
Title: Re: being a trip around France.
Post by: Scout63 on December 16, 2022, 08:48:56 PM
Wonderful pictures and descriptions. Thanks so much for sharing it.  I would be happy to ride just one leg of this tour.
Title: Re: being a trip around France.
Post by: Huzo on December 16, 2022, 08:49:40 PM
Thanks for taking this former high mileage Guzzi rider on your trip. Keep 'em coming.
Tex
Tex.
There is no such thing as a former high mileage rider, it’s like being a former boxer.
You always will be and still are… :bow: :thumb:
Title: Re: being a trip around France.
Post by: Daniel Kalal on December 16, 2022, 11:55:00 PM
Quote from: Pescatore
I'm curious about where you left your gear.  You know the shop owner

My gear is with Agostini-Mandello Moto Guzzi.  I've been going there from the time Alis Agostini ran the shop (after being founded by her father, Duilio).  It is now owned by Alberto Agliati.  This was my 23rd trip, which fact astounds me.  I've got a large blue bag in the back that's full of things I'll need on every trip, which saves all the bother of lugging my helmet and boots each time (and now includes a riding suit).  Lake Como is as good a place as any to start a ride in Europe.  Milan is an easy train away, and there are plenty of flights to Malpensa Airport.

There are many excellent ways to ride in Europe; this works for me.
Title: Re: being a trip around France.
Post by: chuck peterson on December 17, 2022, 05:21:57 AM
 :bow: Absolutely amazing Daniel! Guzzi should just put you on the payroll to do what you do here…thanks
Title: Re: being a trip around France.
Post by: 9fingers on December 17, 2022, 07:24:16 AM
That was and amazing trip! Thank you for taking the time to photograph and post.
Scott
Title: Re: being a trip around France.
Post by: adaven on December 17, 2022, 07:26:10 AM
:bow: Absolutely amazing Daniel! Guzzi should just put you on the payroll to do what you do here…thanks
The EU, too. You explain the charm and the quirks of traveling in southern Europe beautifully. And the scenery...what a joy to be able to ride in the Pyrenees
Title: Re: being a trip around France.
Post by: bmc5733946 on December 17, 2022, 10:53:23 AM
I envy your ability to keep a remarkably svelte figure with all those pastries in evidence. I would have a difficult time resisting many of those! Thanks for sharing your trip and unique perspective Daniel.

Brian
Title: Re: being a trip around France.
Post by: DC950 on December 17, 2022, 02:12:09 PM
thanks very much for writing this up.
Title: Re: being a trip around France.
Post by: Bisbee on December 17, 2022, 03:07:42 PM
What a great trip! So, without being too personal, what is in that yellow bag that allows a 30 day road trip? I am always amazed at how well seasoned travelers can make do with so little and do it so well. Bravo!
Title: Re: being a trip around France.
Post by: Daniel Kalal on December 17, 2022, 06:21:22 PM
Quote from: Bisbee
what is in that yellow bag that allows a 30 day road trip?

I've got a checklist...  In the yellow bag you'll also find two much smaller pouches--black and orange

   5 September-to-25 September   
c   item complete   
n   noted, but not needed   

   On your person (flying)   
c   watch   
c   smartphone w/ziplok   
n   Print boarding passes   and trim them
c   Windbreaker   marmot, grey
c   change purse (orange)   
c   Canon Camera   check date/time for destination
c   Canon spare battery   in camera belt pouch (charged)
c   Pocket information card   laminated
c   Passport   keep in orange zipper pouch
n   Shoulder strap   only needed when using large duffle-bag

   In  your wallet   
c   ziplok bag   for use with Roadcrafter
c   visiting cards   
c   driver's license   
c   Insurance cards   
c   Card - Visa Debit   
c   Card - Travel Rewards Visa Credit   
c   Card - Chase (IHG) Mastercard   
c   Card - Chase (United) Mastercard   
c   Card - Global travel insurance Card   cut /  laminate from .pdf file (just use clear tape)

   In the white bag OFF in MANDELLO   for air travel
c   house key OFF in MANDELLO   
c   earplugs (2 pair) OFF in MANELLO   mini-ziploc, one pair each way
c   pen OFF in MANDELLO   ballpoint in addition to orange travel bag
c   clip-on sunglasses   Haven w/sturdy case
c   battery pack: Micro-A to Type-A   5,200mAh, 2A (fully charged)
c   USB cable: Type-A to Type-C, long   to charge phone
c   USB charger: Type-A   
c   1st level currency: Euros   in sandwich bag

   Black travel bag contents   
c   First aid kit   
c   passport photocopy   in side pocket
c   Conversion outlet-plug (2, each)   EU, UK
c   Charger: Canon battery   black, GX9
c   Charger: Eneloop batteries   white
n   Type-A SD card reader   w/Surface Pro
n   Display Adaptor   w/Surface Pro
c   Lithium AAA batteries (4)   for Spot
c   glasses wipe   in very small Ziploc bag
c   USB cable: Micro-A, short (green)   to charge battery pack
c   sewing kit   in side pocket
c   SD card (spare)   
c   Visiting Cards   in side pocket
c   shoe laces   45" long for Keen shoes
c   zip-ties: small   in side pocket
c   zip-ties: longer   at bottom of bag
c   Flashlight, black LED   fresh battery, (1)AA
c   ballpoint pen   
c   red permanent marker pen   to mark map
c   Spare Glasses   
c   spare buckles for straps   for yellow bag
c   Glasses screwdriver   

   Orange travel bag contents   
c   Hair Brush   Clean under tap 
c   toothbrush, quip   fresh battery, (1)AAA
c   toothpaste   full bottle
c   shaving gel   full bottle
c   Shampoo   full bottle
c   floss   new pack 
c   GUM toothpicks   mini-ziploc
c   Ear plugs   4-pairs
c   Razor   w/case
c   Deodorant   start with new
c   plastic waste bag   
c   Pepto-Bismol   tablets
c   Advil   tablets
c   Anti-diarrheal   tablets
c   cough - mucinex   tablets
c   Fisherman's friend   tablets
c   Detergent for sink (each day)   21
c   Sink stopper   
c   wide bandaids (for blisters)   in small ziploc
c   Moleskin   1 pair each in small ziplocs
c   Chapstick   
c   nail clippers   
n   Breathalyzer   France only
c   q-tips, cut and in small ziploc   mini-ziploc (cut 1/2)
c   Pen   besides what is in the white bag
c   small zipties (10)   in side pocket

   Roadcrafter Suit   
c   Aerostich R3   
c   eneloop pro AA batteries (2)   RH sleeve pocket, charged, for GPS
c   ear plugs (4)   RH sleeve pocket
c   ear plugs (2)   tube in left pocket
c   flashlight, small   front zipper (check operation)
c   zip ties, long   front pocket
c   travel insurance documents   leg pocket (label w/sharpie)
n   Ferry documents   leg pocket (label w/sharpie)
n   International drivers license   leg pocket
c   pouch, map waterproof   front pocket (the Alps)
c   The big-picture map   front pocket

   General Packing   
c   Gloves, light weight   
c   Gloves, heavy weight   
c   Socks (2 pair)   smart wool
c   Underwear (2)   
c   Long sleeve undershirt (1)   light-weight, grey
c   Pants (2)   
c   Shirts (2)   
n   swimming suit   
c   Polar-tech  pullover   L.L. Bean, grey
n   Electric vest   
c   windstop pullover   Aerostich, tan
c   Shoe bags   black nylon
c   Hat Tilley   clean 
c   Silk Scarf   Aerostich
c   zipper pouch, yellow for maps   for maps and currency Ziplocs
c   map - Alps   in Roadcrafter
c   map - Pyrenees   in yellow zipper pouch
c   map - Germany   in yellow zipper pouch
c   map - France   in yellow zipper pouch
c   Kansas flags (4)   keep in Ziploc bag
c   Ziploc bags (2)   quart size
c   Laundry bag (mesh)   white
n   Face shield   if needed

   In a ziploc bag (1 gallon)   for quick access at Agostini
c   Spot   4 AAA batteries loaded
c   RAM - Spot mount   w/zip-tie and rubber gasket
c   Garmin Oregon® 700   w/Eneloop Pro AA batteries
c   RAM - Garmin mount   w/hardware
n   Tire Pressure Gauge   repack under the seat
c   Tool bag straps (3)   
n   Dryer sheets (2)   For helmet storage in Mandello

   Motorcycle related   
c   tool bag w/tools   
c   Tire repair kit   keep in tool bag w/grease pencil
c   Zipties   Small and long (like-sizes tied together)
c   Duffle-bag, yellow   Small Ortleib for the ride
c   Duffle tie-down straps   Yellow

   Normally Kept at Mandello   in blue bag
x   Helmet w/bag   Arai Profile (purchased 2010)
x   Replacement helmet shield   Arai SAQ
x   Boots   Sidi, On-Road
x   Water bottle w/carabineer   Nalgene, blue
x   Tire Pump and gauge   in red bag w/cords
x   Power cord, 12 volt   Powerlet-to-battery
x   Ferry tie-downs   

   Activities before leaving   
c   Hold mail (last day it's delivered)   confirmation: CAH440055228
n   Purchase local currency   Bank of America (FedEx signature)
n   Notify Chase   no longer required
n   Notify Bank of America   no longer required
c   Prepare Garmin Oregon® 700   load Europe maps
c   Garmin POIs   use POI loader for hotels and Guzzi shops
n   Lawn service   no action taken
n   Wash silk scarf   
n   Prepare Roadcrafter   Wash-and-waterproof, lubricate zippers
n   Vignettes for autobahns   Order online
c   UHC Global Insurance   schedule coverage time period
c   set camera time-zone   Use Italy
c   use ear drops and trim nails   
n   wallet   water-proofing spray
c   shoes   cleaned
c   shirts   check for integrity
c   shoe laces   check for integrity
c   pants   check for integrity
c   spreadsheet: Vehicles.xls   prepare Agostini tab
c   Pack in large suitcase   small yellow Ortlieb is packed flat

   prepare phone   
c   AT&T  data, confirm plan   International Day Pass ($10/day usage)
c   travel documents   use prefix: a
c   phone maps   update
c   maps, roads travelled   update files
c   Language chart   check for new languages
Title: Re: being a trip around France.
Post by: Gliderjohn on December 19, 2022, 11:36:04 AM
Thanks again Daniel for taking us along. Like the beard.
GliderJohn
Title: Re: being a trip around France.
Post by: MGrego on December 19, 2022, 12:21:28 PM
Looks amazing !  Thanks for sharing  :thumb:
Title: Re: being a trip around France.
Post by: Pescatore on February 08, 2023, 12:38:39 PM
(http://www.dankalal.net/2022trip1/map0001.JPG)
 
It has been awhile.
  ........

Hello Daniel,
How do you create your maps?  I tried Google and Rever and each have their drawbacks.  I wonder how your solution works.
I looked through your web site for tips on a ride I am planning to Sardegna.  Thanks for creating it!
Title: Re: being a trip around France.
Post by: Huzo on February 08, 2023, 02:48:12 PM
Jeez you’re a lot better organised than me.
My trips look somewhat amateurish by comparison…. :bow: :thumb:
I think I look too far afield and end up going too far but somehow seeing less of more… my problem that I haven’t been able (or inclined) to remedy, is that I tend to pick a destination that sees me falling for the “just get there” mentality.
But I suppose if you ride all day and regret none of it, things are still good.
Have you ever been across the Spluga Pass ?
It’s the steepest and most demanding one that I’ve been on.
Title: Re: being a trip around France.
Post by: Steve Cas on February 09, 2023, 07:04:04 AM
Bravo.  :bow:
Title: Re: being a trip around France.
Post by: kidsmoke on February 10, 2023, 08:46:33 AM
Thak you Daniel. This thread is in itself a masterclass on moto touring. Can't thank you enough. My mind wanders....

Just booked an AirBnB in Dinan for April (prior to seeing this thread). Thrilled to hear that it ranks as a notable destination for someone with your frame of reference. My Girlfriend and I are visiting France for the first time and have decided a ramble through Brittany is the way to introduce ourselves, after brief stops in Dissay (family heritage) and Noirmoutier (a 2* restaurant)

I didn't think it was possible, but you've heightened my anticipation!

Title: Re: being a trip around France.
Post by: Daniel Kalal on February 10, 2023, 11:14:56 AM
Quote from: Pescatore
How do you create your maps?

I use two mapping programs that have been unavailable since 2013: Microsoft’s “Auto-Route” and “Streets-and-Trips”.

Auto-Route is for Europe and Streets-and-Trips is for The United States and Canada.  They are otherwise identical.

My routes are all defined by a series of coordinates of latitude and longitude, which I keep in a spreadsheet (containing tens a thousands of these data-points) and which are shown as dots on a map.  The spreadsheet makes it easy to organize and track all my trips.  The two Microsoft mapping programs allow you to use a spreadsheet to import the routes., and can show them all as a single entry, or I  can separate them by color (or symbol) for each trip.  It’s very flexible.  None of the currently available on-line mapping programs work as well or as easily.

I retained the original installation files for these programs, so with each new computer, I can reload the programs (crossing my fingers that it will all still work).

A note: I use a SPOT device that transmits and uploads my coordinates every ten minutes.  The device communicates with satellites and does not use the mobile phone network, which means I am never out of range.  These coordinates are what I use for my maps.  If I need to, I can easily add additional dots to fill in with additional detail—the programs allow this.

Using Microsoft Auto-Route to show all the trips in a single shot…  I can change the size of the dots or the color and there are multiple options for showing the map (this is terrain).
(https://www.dankalal.net/chapter_collections/collection_roads/map_roads_all_europe.jpg)

Quote from: Huzo
Have you ever been across the Spluga Pass?
  Yes, a few times.  It’s the direct route north from Mandello over the Alps, but (as you pointed out) it’s not something for fast traveling.

Quote from: kidsmoke
My Girlfriend and I are visiting France for the first time and have decided a ramble through Brittany

I love Brittany.  You might look at the route of my last trip and think I avoided Brittany, but the real reason I cut across the peninsula is that I’ve already thoroughly covered that area and wanted to make sure I had time for the other areas.  You’ll love it.  One small advantage: there are no tolls on any of the roads.
Title: Re: being a trip around France.
Post by: Huzo on February 10, 2023, 02:53:21 PM
Fantastic documentation Daniel.
Do you intend to go to Nordkapp in the future ? Also I see you crossed from somewhere near Helsinki to Estonia, that part of my 2017 trip was one of the very few times I felt vulnerable to lawlessness.
Just this bit…
(https://i.ibb.co/c1T9pCf/AD32-C641-B015-4-CCF-A7-C4-8-AF971-F21-C5-C.png) (https://ibb.co/c1T9pCf)

That section was the first time I encountered the situation where two cars are coming toward you and at 200 metres closing distance, the second of the two pulls out to pass and goes between both vehicles.
The traffic is completely different in Estonia to Finland.
Did you find the same thing Daniel ?
Title: Re: being a trip around France.
Post by: Pescatore on February 11, 2023, 12:48:27 PM
Thanks for the info.
BTW, impressive coverage of Europe.
Title: Re: being a trip around France.
Post by: Roebling3 on February 12, 2023, 07:04:45 PM
Many thanks, once again Danial.

Your carefully organized and photographed trips dazzle me every time.
I lived in France for 3 years, in the 70's. From '79 to 2011 I made hundreds of trips, for business, in the very areas you covered most recently.
There were always bikes to borrow. 

A terrific friend, always had a Guzzi available but I never had a chance to ride his nicely updated 500 single. See page 30 in Mick Walker's
"Engineering Brilliance on the Shores of Lake Como". A yellow V11 Sport on the cover. Page 31.   

         Sweet dreams tonight.   Good fortune,  R3~ 
Title: Re: being a trip around France.
Post by: twowheeladdict on February 23, 2023, 07:35:28 AM
Finally had a chance to really take in this ride report.  Amazing! 

Title: Re: being a trip around France.
Post by: bottler on February 25, 2023, 08:34:06 PM
Daniel,  Thank you for a great ride report, especially all the photos and the list of what you take. I was impressed by the level of your pre trip planning. In September last year I completed an 18,500 kilometre, (about 11,500 miles) lap around Australia on my 2013 MG Stelvio, however my planning and packing was not in your league! (Less planning, more stuff!) In my defence I had to pack a whole lot of camping stuff due to the lack of hotels in the Oz outback.

The Stelvio's performance was outstanding, which is more than can be said for the rider!

Cheers

Bottler