Norge service schedule

[Huzo]

I’ve now done 204,500 km on the Norge so that equates to 9 major services and 9 minor ones.
I note that in the owners book, the intervals are a haphazard conglomeration of disjointed mish mash. So I decided from the get go that I would do a MAJOR service at every EVEN 10,000 kilometres. 20,000 40,000 60,000......etc
And a MINOR service every ODD 10,000 kilometres. 10,000 30,000 50,000...etc
Below I will outline what I do in a MAJOR service.

Brake pads check and replace if necessary.
Check disc bobbins for free movement.
Clean the discs.
Spark plugs (inner and outer) replace…(Replacing inner plugs requires airbox removal, 10 minutes off 15 minutes back on)
Engine, gearbox, final drive oil change with filter.
Air filter replace.
Valve clearance check.
Air filter box clean/purge.
Fork oil change.
Brake and clutch fluid change.
Remove and lubricate brake and clutch lever/s.
Lubricate rear brake and gearshift lever/s.
Clean battery terminals.
Check tank cap drain.
Remove and lubricate side and centrestand.
Balance TB’s and check for DTC’s
That’s every EVEN 10,000 k

Now at every ODD 10,000 k..
Change Engine, Gearbox and Final Drive fluids.

There are some longer term items that I attend to at around 60,000 k intervals.

Alternator belt check/replace..(easy when the forks are out for changing fluid)
Fuel filter
Headstem bearings grease adjust.
Drive splines clean/grease.

I cannot see how anything relevant can be missed if this schedule is adhered to, but let’s know if y’all have spotted something.

[Andy1]

Looks good.
You ride a lot so not relevant to you, but some service jobs like brake fluid changes are done on a time basis rather than miles - maybe the fork oil change as well?
I do a similar thing with my bikes but because I do a lot less miles I also do a 1000 mile check of things like nuts and bolts and tyre pressures (or monthly).
andyB

[Huzo]

Looks good.
You ride a lot so not relevant to you, but some service jobs like brake fluid changes are done on a time basis rather than miles - maybe the fork oil change as well?
I do a similar thing with my bikes but because I do a lot less miles I also do a 1000 mile check of things like nuts and bolts and tyre pressures (or monthly).
andyB

That sounds reasonable Andy.

[Huzo]

Bump for Kaladin

[Huzo]

Bumped for SemperVee

[SemperVee]

 Thanks Huzo... Cut and pasted.  Searching for fluids and parts now.    Staying with the previous original owners Redline 10-60 since Hi-Ho SIlver already has 48,000+ miles of smile on her.

[Huzo]

 Thanks Huzo... Cut and pasted.  Searching for fluids and parts now.    Staying with the previous original owners Redline 10-68 since Hi-Ho SIlver already has 48,000+ miles of smile on her.

ok.

[Huzo]

Bumped for Karkaliev.

[Pescatore]

Fork oil change.
Balance TB’s and check for DTC’s
Alternator belt check/replace..(easy when the forks are out for changing fluid)
Fuel filter
Headstem bearings grease adjust.
Drive splines clean/grease.

Huzo, are you into making videos/taking pictures while you do the above tasks?
I am stressing out about removing the tank, I can't imagine removing the forks.

[Huzo]

Huzo, are you into making videos/taking pictures while you do the above tasks?
I am stressing out about removing the tank, I can't imagine removing the forks.

Is your bike a Norge or Griso ?

[Pescatore]

2008 red Norge with 9k miles.

[Huzo]

To get the forks out..
Loosen the pinch bolt in the top triple clamp.
Lightly loosen the fork cap nuts with a six sided socket.
Remove the front wheel along with the front fender, calipers and speed sensor.
Fully loosen the two clamping bolts each side on the bottom triple clamp.
The plastic cover on the top clamp does not need to come off.
Now the tricky bit..
BLOODY GENTLY tap a suitable flat blade screwdriver into the slot (top and bottom), that the pinch bolts bite onto when you tighten the clamps, to open the gap slightly. If you overdo this you risk breaking the clamp.
The top clamp needs to be accessed from underneath.
The forks will slide out easily.

[Huzo]

Now, the tank…
Start by undoing these two bolts, one each side.


Undo and remove the rear tank securing bolt…(10 mm socket).
Slide the tank backwards a couple of inches.
Lift the rear of the tank about 4” and place a block of wood under the rear where the bolt was, to get some clearance.
Undo the multi pin electrical plug that powers up the fuel pump etc.
Disconnect the air vent hose where it goes from two into one.
Stand on the right (rear brake lever) side of the bike.
With your left hand, hold the red fuel output elbow that comes out of the bottom of the tank.
While you are supporting the elbow, push the fuel line onto the elbow spigot to it’s comfortable limit, (you’ll hear a faint “click”).
Keep hold of the fuel line with your right hand and bring the grey plastic collar on the female fuel junction fitting towards your right hand.
Now with BOTH hands, place your 1st and 2nd fingers behind the grey collar with your thumbs against the elbow and slide the fitting off the spigot.
This method will not put any bending force on the elbow…(you might not even break it…!).
Then lift the tank off and walk away with it.

[Bigtime]

  Huzo, greatly enjoy and appreciate your write ups on the Norge. I have a '09 2v that I just finished servicing ( alt. belt, inner plugs, throttle body cleaning fluids ect). My charging voltage has always been a bit low for my liking ( around 13.6 to 13.7 at the battery). With the air box out, I checked and cleaned the ring connector on the out put wire on the alternator ( it was clean and tight). I then paralleled an additional conductor directly to the battery (through a fuse block). The results are I now have 14.2v at the battery. The original circuit from the alternator to the battery has several connections (as you well know) that adds resistance to the circuit. This turned into a worth while experiment. Anyway, thanks again for your posts and looking forward to your 300k report.

[Huzo]

  Huzo, greatly enjoy and appreciate your write ups on the Norge. I have a '09 2v that I just finished servicing ( alt. belt, inner plugs, throttle body cleaning fluids ect). My charging voltage has always been a bit low for my liking ( around 13.6 to 13.7 at the battery). With the air box out, I checked and cleaned the ring connector on the out put wire on the alternator ( it was clean and tight). I then paralleled an additional conductor directly to the battery (through a fuse block). The results are I now have 14.2v at the battery. The original circuit from the alternator to the battery has several connections (as you well know) that adds resistance to the circuit. This turned into a worth while experiment. Anyway, thanks again for your posts and looking forward to your 300k report.

Hmmm…
That’s interesting to say the very least Biggy.
 Something I probably won’t do, but rather clever I’ll admit. I would have thought 14 and a bit might have been nicer too, but I will keep your sage words in mind and investigate that if needs be.
Interestingly, the on board voltmeter agrees exactly with my good multimeter, so that’s a bonus…

[Bigtime]

  I probably need to remove my dash and clean the connectors. My on board voltmeter reads about .6v lower than my multimeter at the battery. What do you think?

[Huzo]

  I probably need to remove my dash and clean the connectors. My on board voltmeter reads about .6v lower than my multimeter at the battery. What do you think?

I have had the dash off a few times and it REALLY helps if you remove one handlebar riser, because this facilitates the removal of the black panel.
 If you choose not to do this, it requires the panel to be twisted, turned, re oriented, all while standing on one foot…etc.
The plug on the back of the dash has a rotatable cam lock and is not easy to access, but quite doable.
Once you’ve rotated that cam lock the plug comes away pretty easily, it (not surprisingly) will not go back on incorrectly.
I would suggest that you disconnect the battery first, but you probably didn’t need that advice.

[Pescatore]

To get the forks out..

Thanks for your patience, Huzo.
I am not used to working on newer bikes, so I don't go for the service manual right away.
After reading your posts it dawned on me that this might be documented.
Lo and behold, with the Norge we have pictures... in color!!!
So, I studied the pictures in the manual and compared to your instructions.
One thing I am not clear on is how the forks are aligned.  Here are some questions:
I see they insert the wheel pin, but how do I know the two stems are exactly the same length from the top?  Does the pin really enforce that?
Next, what sets the length of the two stems from the top?
Do I need to mark with tape before removing, or is there a stop washer at the top?  I don't see it in the parts manual, nor a mention in the service manual.

Now, the tank…

The tank removal is a bit vague in the manual.  I appreciate your instructions for the fuel connector.  Hopefully I will not break it.
I found a replacement from MGCycle, but it is now sold out (MG410 Fuel Line Connection Elbow).

[coast range rider]

I cannot see how anything relevant can be missed if this schedule is adhered to, but let’s know if y’all have spotted something.

Are you intentionally skipping cleaning throttle bodies?

[Huzo]

Thanks for your patience, Huzo.
I am not used to working on newer bikes, so I don't go for the service manual right away.
After reading your posts it dawned on me that this might be documented.
Lo and behold, with the Norge we have pictures... in color!!!
So, I studied the pictures in the manual and compared to your instructions.
One thing I am not clear on is how the forks are aligned.  Here are some questions:
I see they insert the wheel pin, but how do I know the two stems are exactly the same length from the top?  Does the pin really enforce that?
Next, what sets the length of the two stems from the top?
Do I need to mark with tape before removing, or is there a stop washer at the top?  I don't see it in the parts manual, nor a mention in the service manual.
The tank removal is a bit vague in the manual.  I appreciate your instructions for the fuel connector.  Hopefully I will not break it.
I found a replacement from MGCycle, but it is now sold out (MG410 Fuel Line Connection Elbow).

The forks will not come out through the top of the upper clamp.
They are machined to prevent this, as you slide the forks in you will feel them hit against the limit. Make sure you do one at a time and replace the first one before removing the second, this will prevent you from putting them in the wrong sides.
The one with the ABS sensor goes on the right (twistgrip) side.

[Huzo]

Are you intentionally skipping cleaning throttle bodies?

Because my bike was exhibiting no idling problems and returning excellent fuel economy figures, I left them alone.
I have since done them as one of the jobs I schedule every 100,000 km.
I did not do them at the first 100,000.