Wildguzzi.com
General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: Gintonious on April 24, 2015, 06:25:58 PM
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On my LeMans 3,
When I use my front brake, the rear light doesn't illuminate. It works fine with my rear brake so the light itself is still functioning. Has anyone had something similar happen and is it a quick fix? Hoping to get out on it tomorrow!
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Let's ignore the brake light for a moment. Does the front brake itself work? The title of the thread implies it doesn't.
If the front brake does NOT work --- you have hydraulic system failure or a ton of air in the line and a more important safety issue than a bad brake light switch.
If the front brake DOES work then you probably have a loose connection either at the brake light switch on the lower triple clamp, or someplace along the wire to the harness BEFORE it joins with the wire out to the tail light unit.
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Sorry to clarify.
Front brake works just fine, its the brake light that doesn't light when you use it, thats the issue.
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. . .and if it doesn't come on, it's a bitch. :BEER:
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Thank god I already swallowed the slug of beer before reading RK's reply. On your toes, all the damn time.
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Thanks for the help lads.
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We're waiting for the results of the wire-touch test. It's the place to start.
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Heck my Eldorado doesn't have a front brake switch! Ain't that a bitch? :BEER:
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Pull the two leads from the front brakelight switch and connect them together , if the light comes on it is the switch .
Dusty
Careful. ::) Something could blow up. ;D :BEER:
Matt
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Careful. ::) Something could blow up. ;D :BEER:
Matt
My head did once almost explode once while trying to explain how to wire up a BL switch , the guy couldn't figure out why he kept getting smoke when hooking ground to one side , and hot to the other :o ;D
Dusty
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My head did once almost explode once while trying to explain how to wire up a BL switch , the guy couldn't figure out why he kept getting smoke when hooking ground to one side , and hot to the other :o ;D
Dusty
Kii
Dusty
Some things just can't be fixed......
Mark
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Kii
Dusty
Some things just can't be fixed......
Mark
Fortunately this guy is still a friend and has learned to at least pay some attention to my advice . Or maybe he is just humoring me ;D
Dusty
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Ok, so we found the switch located at the end of the front brake lever, touched the 2 connections and the light lit up, so it would appear its the switch indeed!
Where would I locate one, or will any switch do for this? Or is it the usual MG Cycle or Harper Moto?
Thanks
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Not familiar with LM3s . One of you smart guys , does the front BL switch have the little tiny ball bearing in the switch that does the pushing ? Hang on Ginny , the switch might just need a good cleaning .
Dusty
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Not mine, stock. Don't work either after hitting the Volvo.
Switch should be on master where the line starts.
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Switch should be on master where the line starts.
Do these LMIIIs have the micro switch on the master cylinder, like the later bikes?
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No, old style pressure switch.
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..little tiny ball bearing in the switch that does the pushing...
Bearing ball, not ball bearing!
:)
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The usual suspects or NAPA, depending on your hurry. If NAPA, take the old one in (plug the hole) for a positive match.
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Bearing ball, not ball bearing!
:)
Ya and it will fall out if you are not careful and roll somewhere where you cannot find it if I remember correctly.
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Thanks again guys, much appreciated.
What exactly is the name of the part? When I search for rake switches I get control switches as results, which isn't what I am looking for.
Thanks
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http://www.harpermoto.com/switch-br-light-switch-25657001.html
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http://www.harpermoto.com/switch-br-light-switch-25657001.html
Sweet, thanks!
Saw this as well? German made, always sounds good to me.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/MOTO-GUZZI-LE-MANS-SEE-LIST-BELLOW-REAR-STOP-BRAKE-LIGHT-SWITCH-CM-73-/191554806681?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item2c998e6399&vxp=mtr (http://www.ebay.com/itm/MOTO-GUZZI-LE-MANS-SEE-LIST-BELLOW-REAR-STOP-BRAKE-LIGHT-SWITCH-CM-73-/191554806681?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item2c998e6399&vxp=mtr)
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"Front brake works, but brake light doesn't light up..."
I consider this a feature, not a bug. For two reasons,
1) if I am trying to outrun the cops at night or anytime, I might want to be able to brake to dart down a side street/alley/country dirt road/hedgerow without signaling the fuzz, and
2) If I am making a left turn on a suicide type corner. Where you have 2 lanes in each direction, no median, only painted lines, high speed limit and no turn lane. If I want to go left (like onto my street). You can bet I am braking with my front that does not turn on the brake light, and then I am flashing the brake light furiously using the foot brake because you can probably bet this bike doesn't have directionals either, in which case I am also furiously hand signaling and looking in my mirror to see if I'm going to get rear ended. Tip: keep wheel pointed toward the front until ready to go... 8^))
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German made? SBS is Danish and makes brake pads. If they're selling German electromechanicals maybe they're from Bosch?
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Sweet, thanks!
Saw this as well? German made, always sounds good to me.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/MOTO-GUZZI-LE-MANS-SEE-LIST-BELLOW-REAR-STOP-BRAKE-LIGHT-SWITCH-CM-73-/191554806681?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item2c998e6399&vxp=mtr (http://www.ebay.com/itm/MOTO-GUZZI-LE-MANS-SEE-LIST-BELLOW-REAR-STOP-BRAKE-LIGHT-SWITCH-CM-73-/191554806681?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item2c998e6399&vxp=mtr)
Neither of those will work because for the un-linked front brake the switch is also the banjo bolt that holds the brake line to the master cylinder. The required switch has a longer shank with a cross drilling in it for fluid delivery to the banjo. You will need the switch and both sealing washers.
Note that if the brake lines are the original black 'Rubber' type they are now over thirty years old. I'd consider replacing them at the same time as the switch. All of 'em. Front and linked system.
Pete
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http://www.jpcycles.com/product/240-534
Google is your friend
This is not guzzi 10x1 thread, but they have that too.
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Quick thought -- the brake switch contacts often get dirty/soft. You might save some time and $$ by making the spades shiny and testing with an ohm meter. If pumping the lever makes the ohm meter twitch, your problem is dirty connections.
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Note that if the brake lines are the original black 'Rubber' type they are now over thirty years old. I'd consider replacing them at the same time as the switch. All of 'em. Front and linked system.
:+1
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Brake lines are steel braided now, not original.