Author Topic: First time replacing wheel bearings  (Read 2762 times)

Online Dirk_S

  • www.dirkshearer.com
  • Gaggle Hero
  • *****
  • *
  • *
  • *
  • *
  • Posts: 1506
  • Doodler of doodles
    • www.DirkShearer.com
  • Location: Portland, Maine, U.S.
First time replacing wheel bearings
« on: January 15, 2022, 09:54:21 PM »
A couple months ago I purchased a set of used spokes V7 wheels. Planning to replace the spokes and seal the rims to run tubeless tires, like I did previously with the set that’s currently on the bike. This new-to-me set is bare aluminum, and I want these on the bike, and I’ll throw one of the current wheels over to the sidecar axle.

While I’ve got everything deconstructed, I’m going to take the opportunity to replace the bearings. I haven’t removed them yet, so I’m not sure if they even NEED to be replaced (assuming probably not), but I view this as an inexpensive lesson of the empirical sort. I’ve never purchased wheel bearings before. I know there’s a code stamped on the race or cover, but without looking at a bearing thats already in the wheel, is there a way to find out what aftermarket bearing sizes to look for that fits the V7 II? I read recently about certain grades? Should I avoid roller or tapered bearings? What general tips SHOULD I know?
« Last Edit: January 15, 2022, 10:48:15 PM by Dirk_S »
Current: ‘16 Guzzi V7 II Stone, ‘78 BMW R80/7

Previous: ‘15 Ural Gear Up, ‘77 Kawasaki KZ400 Special, ‘78 Honda CX500S, ‘80 Honda CX500D, ‘11 Suzuki TU250X

Offline Huzo

  • Gaggle Hero
  • *****
  • *
  • *
  • *
  • *
  • Posts: 13202
  • Location: Creswick Australia
Re: First time replacing wheel bearings
« Reply #1 on: January 15, 2022, 10:28:22 PM »
Certainly not tapered rollers.
If you do that, you then have to monitor preload and the sort of Nm figure that would be called for, would not be sufficient for a snug axle / fork slider connection.
I see you are running a side car, so the concept of tapereds is not a ridiculous choice empirically, but you will introduce the potential for a hornet’s nest of complications, although the sidecar wheel may be worth considering.
You’ll also be well advised to get some warmth onto the hub if you can when extracting the races, it leaves the bore in pristine condition (if it ever was..).
Also when fitting the new ones, warm the hub and freeze the races, they’ll go in so easily, you’ll think they’ve sold you the wrong ones..!
For heaven’s sake though, don’t forget the spacer... :rolleyes:
If you do and you have to belt one of the new ones out..? Don’t re use it.
Also.
When you’ve fitted the new ones, push on the inner of the left race while holding opposite pressure on the other one and make sure that the inners won’t turn independently of each other. This would indicate that the spacer is not in solid contact with the inners and it’s imperative that it is.
If you have ANY clearance between the inners and the spacer, you will brutalise the races upon tightening the axle and you’ll be back in there quick sticks....
Why ?
‘Cause they’ll be rooted.
« Last Edit: January 15, 2022, 10:34:28 PM by Huzo »

Offline Cdn850T5NT

  • Cdn850T5NT
  • Gaggle Mentor
  • ****
  • Posts: 563
  • Location: Vancouver, BC Canada
Re: First time replacing wheel bearings
« Reply #2 on: January 15, 2022, 10:56:34 PM »
Certainly not tapered rollers.
If you do that, you then have to monitor preload and the sort of Nm figure that would be called for, would not be sufficient for a snug axle / fork slider connection.
I see you are running a side car, so the concept of tapereds is not a ridiculous choice empirically, but you will introduce the potential for a hornet’s nest of complications, although the sidecar wheel may be worth considering.
You’ll also be well advised to get some warmth onto the hub if you can when extracting the races, it leaves the bore in pristine condition (if it ever was..).
Also when fitting the new ones, warm the hub and freeze the races, they’ll go in so easily, you’ll think they’ve sold you the wrong ones..!
For heaven’s sake though, don’t forget the spacer... :rolleyes:
If you do and you have to belt one of the new ones out..? Don’t re use it.
Also.
When you’ve fitted the new ones, push on the inner of the left race while holding opposite pressure on the other one and make sure that the inners won’t turn independently of each other. This would indicate that the spacer is not in solid contact with the inners and it’s imperative that it is.
If you have ANY clearance between the inners and the spacer, you will brutalise the races upon tightening the axle and you’ll be back in there quick sticks....
Why ?
‘Cause they’ll be rooted.

That is excellent guidance; very instructive. Thx!
1985 Eurospec 850 T5 NT (Nuovo Tipo - New Type... i.e. Series III)

Offline Canuck750

  • Gaggle Hero
  • *****
  • *
  • *
  • *
  • *
  • *
  • Posts: 2138
  • Location: Edmonton, Canada
Re: First time replacing wheel bearings
« Reply #3 on: January 15, 2022, 11:40:11 PM »
A blind bearing puller makes removal of old bearings an easy task.

Trying to punch a bearing out with a drift through the center axle opening from the opposite side while trying to catch the edge of the bearing can be difficult. The through punch also requires slowly moving around the bearing to not wedge the bearing into the hub.

A cheap blind bearing puller kit can be found at Harbour Freight or Amazon. A blind bearing puller is useful for many other bearing extractions on a motorcycle.
48 Guzzi Airone, 57 Guzzi Cardellino, 65 Benelli 200 sprite, 66 Aermacchi Sprint, 68 Gilera 106 SS, 72 Eldorado, 72 Benelli 180, 74 Guzzi 750S, 73 Laverda SF1, 74  Benelli 650S, 75 Ducati 860GT, 75 Moto Morini 3-1/2, 78 Moto Morinii 500

Wildguzzi.com

Re: First time replacing wheel bearings
« Reply #3 on: January 15, 2022, 11:40:11 PM »

Offline John Croucher

  • Gaggle Mentor
  • ****
  • Posts: 647
Re: First time replacing wheel bearings
« Reply #4 on: January 16, 2022, 12:11:23 AM »
Buy quality American made. Don't buy cheap China bearings.

And do not side load as others said.

Offline tris

  • Gaggle Hero
  • *****
  • *
  • *
  • *
  • Posts: 2794
  • Location: United Kingdom
Re: First time replacing wheel bearings
« Reply #5 on: January 16, 2022, 01:20:38 AM »
20 years ago I worked for NSK, so here's a few general pointers.

Dimensions are coded so match the numbers from any supplier you'll get the same bearing . The caveat being some of the specials like the big ones in the CARC which might not be quite the same

1 or 2 S indicates a bearing with 1 or 2 metal shields. Smilarly 1 or 2 R indicates a bearing with rubber seals . This isn't universal and some suppliers are slightly different

If you need to press a bearing into place. NEVER  use the inner race to push the outer race into place.
You WILL dent (brinnel) the races that will cause them to fail in short order.
I spent a lot If time telling customers to stuff their warranty claims for that :thumb:

A decent branded manufacturer is worth paying for.
I'd suggest NSK, SKF or other European (I don't know any US manufacturers)
They all have Chinese manufacturing plants, but quality should be gaurenteed by the mother ship

All rolling element bearings need a degree of axial load. If not loaded the rolling elements skid across the races again destroying the bearing. RTF for the numbers

HTH

Tris







2017 V9 Roamer
2005 Breva 1100 (non ABS) "Bruno" - now sold
1995 Cali 1100 - carby   "Dino" -now sold
1993 TW125 "POS" - Resting

Online Dirk_S

  • www.dirkshearer.com
  • Gaggle Hero
  • *****
  • *
  • *
  • *
  • *
  • Posts: 1506
  • Doodler of doodles
    • www.DirkShearer.com
  • Location: Portland, Maine, U.S.
Re: First time replacing wheel bearings
« Reply #6 on: January 16, 2022, 07:21:01 AM »
All these comments are really appreciated. tris, thanks so much for the code explanations.

I had already seen Stein-Dinse’s site show that the front bearings appear to be shared amongst MANY Guzzis. Not sure about the rear. Was hoping there was a way to know without pulling up the bearing itself, but I guess Guzzi doesn’t want you knowing the code off the bat, as they certainly would rather make money having you buy the bearings from them direct. I’ll check the rear bearings later today when I knock them out.

I’m going to skip the bearing puller in favor of learning the cheap, everyday screwdriver and socket / punch method. I live in a tiny apartment and find myself excitedly buying tools too often—that’s not helping my minimalist goals.

Huzo, I did read about hearing the hubs, which I’ll use if necessary, but freezing the bearings scares me—freezing can cause condensation, and I don’t want to start off on the wrong note by introducing moisture into the brand new bearings. Maybe my science is wrong?
Current: ‘16 Guzzi V7 II Stone, ‘78 BMW R80/7

Previous: ‘15 Ural Gear Up, ‘77 Kawasaki KZ400 Special, ‘78 Honda CX500S, ‘80 Honda CX500D, ‘11 Suzuki TU250X

Offline Scout63

  • Gaggle Hero
  • *****
  • *
  • *
  • *
  • *
  • *
  • Posts: 2682
  • Location: Orleans, MA USA
Re: First time replacing wheel bearings
« Reply #7 on: January 16, 2022, 07:55:16 AM »
Dirk - you can source wheel bearings in the US pretty easily. Greg Bender’s site has references.

http://www.thisoldtractor.com/moto_guzzi_small_blocks_wheel_bearing_cross-references.html

I buy the best that I can get and I buy extras in case I screw one up on the install or forget a spacer.
Ben Zehnder - Orleans, MA USA

Offline fotoguzzi

  • Gaggle Hero
  • *****
  • *
  • *
  • *
  • *
  • Posts: 19931
  • vee git tooh soon oldt und too late wise -my Dad
Re: First time replacing wheel bearings
« Reply #8 on: January 16, 2022, 07:58:10 AM »
There are lots of how to videos on YouTube. I'm pretty sure freezing the bearing is common and nothing to worry about.
« Last Edit: January 16, 2022, 07:59:04 AM by fotoguzzi »
MINNEAPOLIS, MN

Online Dirk_S

  • www.dirkshearer.com
  • Gaggle Hero
  • *****
  • *
  • *
  • *
  • *
  • Posts: 1506
  • Doodler of doodles
    • www.DirkShearer.com
  • Location: Portland, Maine, U.S.
Re: First time replacing wheel bearings
« Reply #9 on: January 16, 2022, 08:36:49 AM »
Yup, I feel fairly comfortable with the process. I should’ve mentioned that I already watched Ari’s (Revzilla, formerly with Motorcyclist Magazine) and Delboy’s bearing replacement videos a few times over the years to prep for this moment. Neither mentioned freezing the bearing, so that tip caught me off guard. The process isn’t as much of a concern as knowing exactly which bearings to go for with needing to actually go look at the code on the bearing.

I’d already Greg’s site a couple times looking for the specific codes for the V7 II, but if the information is on the site, I didn’t see it upon cursory search; hence why I posted here. This is all I found:

https://www.thisoldtractor.com/moto_guzzi_small_blocks_wheel_bearing_cross-references.html

I haven’t found a cross-reference list or a forum post that specifically mentions the bearing sizes for post-Classic V7 models that makes me feel confident in purchasing, so I’ll just check the bearings myself and post the sizes for posterity.

Will make sure to stick with one of the well-regarded brands—looks like Guzzi uses SFK.

:thumb::thumb::thumb:

« Last Edit: January 16, 2022, 08:39:00 AM by Dirk_S »
Current: ‘16 Guzzi V7 II Stone, ‘78 BMW R80/7

Previous: ‘15 Ural Gear Up, ‘77 Kawasaki KZ400 Special, ‘78 Honda CX500S, ‘80 Honda CX500D, ‘11 Suzuki TU250X

Online n3303j

  • Ron Cichowski
  • Gaggle Hero
  • *****
  • *
  • *
  • Posts: 1600
  • Location: Eastern Massachusetts
Re: First time replacing wheel bearings
« Reply #10 on: January 16, 2022, 09:52:14 AM »
NAPA is big on loaning tools. You leave the value of the tool on your credit card and NAPA (Auto Parts) refunds it when they get the tool back.
My local NAPA had an excellent blind bearing puller set on hand when I redid a couple of Guzzi transmissions. Sure made the job go quickly and smoothly.
I'm a fan of SKF "Explorer" series bearings. These are supposedly their best of the best. They aren't much more expensive than any other good quality bearing.
Guzzi wheel applications (1977+ at least) seem to use ball bearings with part numbers suffixed 2RS (2 sides, rubber seals).
'98 MG V11 EV
'96 URAL SPORTSMAN
'77 MG 850T3 FB

Online bmc5733946

  • Gaggle Mentor
  • ****
  • *
  • Posts: 797
  • Location: East Lansing, MI
Re: First time replacing wheel bearings
« Reply #11 on: January 16, 2022, 10:10:18 AM »
I tried really hard to find US made bearings. I could not, many manufacturers are US based but the bearings they supply are made globally. Maybe someone has better google foo than I. I ordered NSK from a US based supplier from Amazon. Most of the bearings I found were C3 class which means that they have some clearance more than the tightest. I have it on good authority that C3 class is fine for wheel bearings, tighter than C3 is for aerospace and precision type stuff, my Guzzi ain't that. YMMV

Brian
1989 MILLE GT 
2004 BREVA 750     
1975  Convert

Offline Scout63

  • Gaggle Hero
  • *****
  • *
  • *
  • *
  • *
  • *
  • Posts: 2682
  • Location: Orleans, MA USA
Re: First time replacing wheel bearings
« Reply #12 on: January 16, 2022, 12:26:08 PM »
Since they are relatively inexpensive, buying both a blind bearing puller and outside puller set is a no-brainer.  They are useful for so many jobs and the need usually comes up suddenly. For removing wheel bearings I usually try a drift first. A good selection of larger sockets and a soft mallet are all I need for the install. Freezing the bearing first helps. 

The first question though is whether to replace at all. On my SP project, it has 20k miles on it and the bearings spin freely with no looseness or binding. Although I had ordered new bearings I elected to keep the old ones in. The old me would have replaced them, inviting possible complications such as improper install or buggering something in the removal.
Ben Zehnder - Orleans, MA USA

Online Dirk_S

  • www.dirkshearer.com
  • Gaggle Hero
  • *****
  • *
  • *
  • *
  • *
  • Posts: 1506
  • Doodler of doodles
    • www.DirkShearer.com
  • Location: Portland, Maine, U.S.
Re: First time replacing wheel bearings
« Reply #13 on: January 16, 2022, 12:30:55 PM »
Since they are relatively inexpensive, buying both a blind bearing puller and outside puller set is a no-brainer.  They are useful for so many jobs and the need usually comes up suddenly. For removing wheel bearings I usually try a drift first. A good selection of larger sockets and a soft mallet are all I need for the install. Freezing the bearing first helps. 

The first question though is whether to replace at all. On my SP project, it has 20k miles on it and the bearings spin freely with no looseness or binding. Although I had ordered new bearings I elected to keep the old ones in. The old me would have replaced them, inviting possible complications such as improper install or buggering something in the removal.

If you read my original post, I note that they may not need to be replaced, but since I’m rebuilding the wheels, and as I’ve never worked on bearings before, AND because they’re inexpensive enough, I see it as a golden opportunity to learn by doing.
« Last Edit: January 16, 2022, 12:50:34 PM by Dirk_S »
Current: ‘16 Guzzi V7 II Stone, ‘78 BMW R80/7

Previous: ‘15 Ural Gear Up, ‘77 Kawasaki KZ400 Special, ‘78 Honda CX500S, ‘80 Honda CX500D, ‘11 Suzuki TU250X

Online John A

  • Gaggle Hero
  • *****
  • *
  • *
  • *
  • *
  • Posts: 4905
  • No way to slow down...
  • Location: Hager city ,western WI
Re: First time replacing wheel bearings
« Reply #14 on: January 16, 2022, 12:39:19 PM »
If there is any question at all on a wheel bearing, I replace them as a pair. It’s something that will stop me on the road and I’ve had that happen so I like to think I’ve learned my lesson
John
MGNOC L-471
It is easier to fool people than it is to convince them that they have been fooled-Mark Twain
99 Bassa, sidecar
02 Stone
84 V65C
15 F3S Spyder

Online n3303j

  • Ron Cichowski
  • Gaggle Hero
  • *****
  • *
  • *
  • Posts: 1600
  • Location: Eastern Massachusetts
Re: First time replacing wheel bearings
« Reply #15 on: January 16, 2022, 12:41:10 PM »
If you read my original post, I note that they may not need to be replaced, but since I’m rebuilding the wheels, and as I’ve never worked on bearings before, AND because they’re inexpensive enough, I see it as golden opportunity to learn by doing.
SKF Explorer 6004.2RS as low as $6 each on Fleabay (shipped). Cheap enough to swap with every tire change. Good enough to run 100K miles without issue.
(6004 is one of Guzzi sizes. Other size similarly priced. See This Old Tractor for cross reference)
« Last Edit: January 16, 2022, 12:42:18 PM by n3303j »
'98 MG V11 EV
'96 URAL SPORTSMAN
'77 MG 850T3 FB

Offline Scout63

  • Gaggle Hero
  • *****
  • *
  • *
  • *
  • *
  • *
  • Posts: 2682
  • Location: Orleans, MA USA
Re: First time replacing wheel bearings
« Reply #16 on: January 16, 2022, 12:48:51 PM »
If you read my original post, I note that they may not need to be replaced, but since I’m rebuilding the wheels, and as I’ve never worked on bearings before, AND because they’re inexpensive enough, I see it as golden opportunity to learn by doing.

I hope I didn’t come off as preachy Dirk.
Ben Zehnder - Orleans, MA USA

Online Antietam Classic Cycle

  • Gaggle Hero
  • *****
  • *
  • Posts: 14141
  • Happily stuck in the past.
    • Antietam Classic Cycle
  • Location: Rohrersville, Maryland
Re: First time replacing wheel bearings
« Reply #17 on: January 16, 2022, 01:01:01 PM »
Motion Pro sells this nice bearing remover set:
https://www.motionpro.com/product/08-0269
Charlie

Online Dirk_S

  • www.dirkshearer.com
  • Gaggle Hero
  • *****
  • *
  • *
  • *
  • *
  • Posts: 1506
  • Doodler of doodles
    • www.DirkShearer.com
  • Location: Portland, Maine, U.S.
Re: First time replacing wheel bearings
« Reply #18 on: January 16, 2022, 01:02:06 PM »
I hope I didn’t come off as preachy Dirk.

All good! Nobody knows how much I know/don’t know beyond what I write, so making note about checking them first and only replacing when necessary is totally valid. But in this case, it’s being done regardless.

Having refereed roller derby for 10 years, I do know how to check bearings for degradation. That said, I also recognize there’s a wee amplification in safety measure when comparing roller skates to a motorcycle that will be ridden thousands of miles in all elements  :grin:
Current: ‘16 Guzzi V7 II Stone, ‘78 BMW R80/7

Previous: ‘15 Ural Gear Up, ‘77 Kawasaki KZ400 Special, ‘78 Honda CX500S, ‘80 Honda CX500D, ‘11 Suzuki TU250X

Offline tris

  • Gaggle Hero
  • *****
  • *
  • *
  • *
  • Posts: 2794
  • Location: United Kingdom
Re: First time replacing wheel bearings
« Reply #19 on: January 16, 2022, 01:36:24 PM »
I would have thought that the US is similar to UK.
Find your local Engeering Supply company with the bearing identity no and they'll sort you out .... without the mark up
Take the old bearing with you if you're concerned.

If you can recognise a dead skate bearing you'll be fine Rumbling, notchiness, noisy, rusty, excessive free play, all the same,  just different size

Useless info, the bearings (deep groove ball) 625 IIRC used on roller skates/skateboards are the most popular in the world

Good luck with with your endeavours
« Last Edit: January 16, 2022, 01:47:56 PM by tris »
2017 V9 Roamer
2005 Breva 1100 (non ABS) "Bruno" - now sold
1995 Cali 1100 - carby   "Dino" -now sold
1993 TW125 "POS" - Resting

Offline Muzz

  • Gaggle Hero
  • *****
  • Posts: 7055
  • On the backside of the planet.
  • Location: Christchurch, New Zealand
Re: First time replacing wheel bearings
« Reply #20 on: January 16, 2022, 01:41:46 PM »
The 6000 series bearings that Guzzi (fortunately) use are the most common boggy all-purpose bearings around, which makes them cheaper than a lot of other more speclialised sized bearings.

I guess you don't know the mileage on your wheels.  The ones on the front of my Breva 750 failed somewhat prematurely at around 32,000 miles.  It was very fortunate for me that my tire needed replacing in a very isolated community which sports a bike shop owned by a very good mechanic.  He did a wheel bearing check as a matter of course, found one had seized and the other was notchy.  He just replaced them; he knows the miles I do to even get there and knew I wouldn't make it home.  Again fortunately, absolutely no damage to the shaft or the wheel.  Dodged a bullet there.
Muzz. Cristchurch, New Zealand
03 Breva

Life is just a bowl of Allbran
Ya wake up in the morning and it's there

Online Dirk_S

  • www.dirkshearer.com
  • Gaggle Hero
  • *****
  • *
  • *
  • *
  • *
  • Posts: 1506
  • Doodler of doodles
    • www.DirkShearer.com
  • Location: Portland, Maine, U.S.
Re: First time replacing wheel bearings
« Reply #21 on: January 16, 2022, 01:51:34 PM »
Curious—if the bearings are removed from the hub (for whatever reason I don’t know), can they still be used, or has the combination of initial tap-in and subsequent tap-out potentially compromised the bearings’ structural integrity too much for comfort? I imagine the answer to be ‘yes, replace the bearings, you cheap bastard.’
Current: ‘16 Guzzi V7 II Stone, ‘78 BMW R80/7

Previous: ‘15 Ural Gear Up, ‘77 Kawasaki KZ400 Special, ‘78 Honda CX500S, ‘80 Honda CX500D, ‘11 Suzuki TU250X

Offline berniebee

  • 2020 Board Donor
  • Gaggle Mentor
  • *
  • *
  • *
  • *
  • Posts: 570
  • Location: Ottawa, Canada
Re: First time replacing wheel bearings
« Reply #22 on: January 16, 2022, 01:57:20 PM »
You can't reuse the bearings- you've pulled or punched them out by the inner diameter while the outer diameter is restrained, so they get damaged in the removal process.

I'll add: Use the largest diameter round punch that can angle down to the bearing edge. Mine is about 5/8".  Make sure the working corner of the punch is sharp as possible, otherwise the punch will just roll over the edge of the bearing when you pound it. Pound on one side of the bearing, then 180 degrees away. Back and forth. If you warm the hub with a heat gun, it will make things a bit easier. (Heat the hub, not the bearing. Yes, some heat will transfer to the bearing.)

The advice about freezing the new bearing is solid, I've seen it in service manuals. I suppose if you are concerned about condensation, you could play a hairdryer over the bearing once installed.

And as for a blind bearing puller, don't bother. You don't need it for this job and unless you are a pro you'll never use one enough to justify the expense. I've done quite a bit of work on cars and bikes. I've used one exactly once- to remove the swing arm bearings on my Guzzi.  Apparently, you can borrow one from NAPA in some places, or rent.  Unfortunately I had to buy one. (Don't tell anyone, but I used it that one time and returned it for a full refund, no questions asked.) 

Online RinkRat II

  • Gaggle Hero
  • *****
  • *
  • *
  • *
  • *
  • Posts: 2188
  • Lake Powell AZ
Re: First time replacing wheel bearings
« Reply #23 on: January 16, 2022, 02:06:26 PM »
 To quote a nearly famous person  "  ‘yes, replace the bearings, you cheap bastard.’ "

    For the 6 to 10 dollars for a bearing, hardly worth the bother to re-use them unless they're only a week old. Some thing I'll throw in the mix is if you have bearings with rubber sheilds ,if you ever so gently, remove one sheild you can re grease that bearing and reinstall the sheild.  If it's a metal sheild, forget it. My$.02 on the freezing of a bearing this small, don't bother. The clearance fit of those is only about a half thousandths into the bore, so heating the bore will be plenty.

        Paul B :boozing:
A Miller in the hand is worth two in the fridge.

Online Dirk_S

  • www.dirkshearer.com
  • Gaggle Hero
  • *****
  • *
  • *
  • *
  • *
  • Posts: 1506
  • Doodler of doodles
    • www.DirkShearer.com
  • Location: Portland, Maine, U.S.
Re: First time replacing wheel bearings
« Reply #24 on: January 18, 2022, 07:51:34 PM »
Thanks all for the tips. Got the bearings out last night. Went to my BMW friend’s house to do it since he has loads more experience with bike stuff…and also has a torch. Spent the whole time there defending my decision to remove and install new ones. He’s an engineer, former military, quite the pragmatist. But he’s also punk, so I was trying to get that side of him to roll with my vision of learning-by-deconstruction.

 Used an alignment punch (same thing as a drift?). Front hub was easy peasy, but the rear hub needed heat.

I looked once again on Greg’s site for bearing sizes—couldn’t find anything. Mind you, this is a small block V7, not one the old farts. Only mention of small block bearing sizes were of an older V50 or 65. Below are the sizes (mm):

FRONT (same bearing on both sides):
* OD 42; ID 20; Width 12

REAR:
* OD 47; ID 17; Width 14
* OD 40; ID 17; Width 12


In regards to bearing seals, is it ok to just order seals that match the OD and ID of the bearing it covers, or should other things be considered?

And, I nicked the inside of the rear spacer a couple times trying to knock it to the side. Do the tiny nicks even matter since it’s such a soft material, or should I go ahead and sand the inside smooth?
« Last Edit: January 18, 2022, 07:54:35 PM by Dirk_S »
Current: ‘16 Guzzi V7 II Stone, ‘78 BMW R80/7

Previous: ‘15 Ural Gear Up, ‘77 Kawasaki KZ400 Special, ‘78 Honda CX500S, ‘80 Honda CX500D, ‘11 Suzuki TU250X

Offline Canuck750

  • Gaggle Hero
  • *****
  • *
  • *
  • *
  • *
  • *
  • Posts: 2138
  • Location: Edmonton, Canada
Re: First time replacing wheel bearings
« Reply #25 on: January 18, 2022, 08:01:31 PM »
[quote author=Dirk_S link=topic=113741.msg1799706#msg1799706 date=1642557094

And, I nicked the inside of the rear spacer a couple times trying to knock it to the side. Do the tiny nicks even matter since it’s such a soft material, or should I go ahead and sand the inside smooth?
[/quote]

Not an issue. the axle is stationary as is the spacer (theoretically) and only sets the gap between bearings, if you have collapsed the spacer tube then drive it true with the axle.

BTW a cheap 4 size blind bearing puller is under $30 on Ebay, silly cheap, a biiger is under $45. My cheap 6 size set is at least 15 years old and has paid for itself ten times over

https://www.ebay.com/itm/313836880047?hash=item491222c0af:g:4OAAAOSw8G1h5Qp5
48 Guzzi Airone, 57 Guzzi Cardellino, 65 Benelli 200 sprite, 66 Aermacchi Sprint, 68 Gilera 106 SS, 72 Eldorado, 72 Benelli 180, 74 Guzzi 750S, 73 Laverda SF1, 74  Benelli 650S, 75 Ducati 860GT, 75 Moto Morini 3-1/2, 78 Moto Morinii 500

Offline lucky phil

  • Gaggle Hero
  • *****
  • Posts: 2047
Re: First time replacing wheel bearings
« Reply #26 on: January 18, 2022, 10:49:54 PM »
Thanks all for the tips. Got the bearings out last night. Went to my BMW friend’s house to do it since he has loads more experience with bike stuff…and also has a torch. Spent the whole time there defending my decision to remove and install new ones. He’s an engineer, former military, quite the pragmatist. But he’s also punk, so I was trying to get that side of him to roll with my vision of learning-by-deconstruction.

 Used an alignment punch (same thing as a drift?). Front hub was easy peasy, but the rear hub needed heat.

I looked once again on Greg’s site for bearing sizes—couldn’t find anything. Mind you, this is a small block V7, not one the old farts. Only mention of small block bearing sizes were of an older V50 or 65. Below are the sizes (mm):

FRONT (same bearing on both sides):
* OD 42; ID 20; Width 12

REAR:
* OD 47; ID 17; Width 14
* OD 40; ID 17; Width 12


In regards to bearing seals, is it ok to just order seals that match the OD and ID of the bearing it covers, or should other things be considered?

And, I nicked the inside of the rear spacer a couple times trying to knock it to the side. Do the tiny nicks even matter since it’s such a soft material, or should I go ahead and sand the inside smooth?

So it seems you need for the front a 6004 and for the rear a 6303 and a 6203. Not quite sure what you mean about the seals but why not use 2RS bearings as in 60042RS, a 63032RS and 62032RS so double sided rubber seals incorporated.

Ciao
If you're not living on the edge you're taking up to much room.

Offline Huzo

  • Gaggle Hero
  • *****
  • *
  • *
  • *
  • *
  • Posts: 13202
  • Location: Creswick Australia
Re: First time replacing wheel bearings
« Reply #27 on: January 18, 2022, 11:16:36 PM »
So it seems you need for the front a 6004 and for the rear a 6303 and a 6203. Not quite sure what you mean about the seals but why not use 2RS bearings as in 60042RS, a 63032RS and 62032RS so double sided rubber seals incorporated.

Ciao
Suddenly that donation seems awfully good value eh Dirk ?
« Last Edit: January 18, 2022, 11:17:30 PM by Huzo »

Online Dirk_S

  • www.dirkshearer.com
  • Gaggle Hero
  • *****
  • *
  • *
  • *
  • *
  • Posts: 1506
  • Doodler of doodles
    • www.DirkShearer.com
  • Location: Portland, Maine, U.S.
Re: First time replacing wheel bearings
« Reply #28 on: January 19, 2022, 12:16:19 PM »
Suddenly that donation seems awfully good value eh Dirk ?

The R.O.I. is certainly in my favor :)
Current: ‘16 Guzzi V7 II Stone, ‘78 BMW R80/7

Previous: ‘15 Ural Gear Up, ‘77 Kawasaki KZ400 Special, ‘78 Honda CX500S, ‘80 Honda CX500D, ‘11 Suzuki TU250X

Offline tris

  • Gaggle Hero
  • *****
  • *
  • *
  • *
  • Posts: 2794
  • Location: United Kingdom
Re: First time replacing wheel bearings
« Reply #29 on: January 19, 2022, 12:35:59 PM »
So it seems you need for the front a 6004 and for the rear a 6303 and a 6203. Not quite sure what you mean about the seals but why not use 2RS bearings as in 60042RS, a 63032RS and 62032RS so double sided rubber seals incorporated.

Ciao

 :thumb:  2RS sealed bearings would be a good choice for this application.

The rubber seals keep the water and other road debris out of the bearings with the penalty of slightly more drag than a metal seal or open bearing

If you're interested in how Phil came up with the bearing numbers go here and plug the dimensions in

https://www.bearingboys.co.uk/bearingsearch.cgi?insidedia=&outsidedia=&width=&type=

PS despite the name Bearings Boys is a good organisation,  and I'm sure that there will be an equivalent company in the US if the link doesn't work
« Last Edit: January 19, 2022, 12:49:44 PM by tris »
2017 V9 Roamer
2005 Breva 1100 (non ABS) "Bruno" - now sold
1995 Cali 1100 - carby   "Dino" -now sold
1993 TW125 "POS" - Resting

***Wildguzzi Official Logo High Quality 5 Color Window Decals Back In Stock***
Shipping in USA Only. Awesome quality. Back by popular demand. All proceeds go back into the forum.
http://www.wildguzzi.com/Products/products.htm
Advertise Here
 

***Wildguzzi Official Logo High Quality 5 Color Window Decals Back In Stock***
Shipping in USA Only. Awesome quality. Back by popular demand. All proceeds go back into the forum.
http://www.wildguzzi.com/Products/products.htm
Advertise Here